It looks so clean! My daily driver shows quite a bit of road wear. It's only been in action since 1.27.15!!!
Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod
- Thread starter gdeal
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Oh, no, the pic isn't current... That pic was taken last year. I'll try to post a current pic tomorrow, when I've got acceptable lighting.
Hopefully that is legible...
Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.
I believe so. I won't be able to get to it right away, but when I do, if I have a question about it, I'll try to get ahold of you. Very nice drawing, by the way!
I had a problem with my 18650 once and as it turned out the hex nuts at the negative spring connector had worked its way loose. I had the nut and screw come loose in my 26650 once also in the switch. It has been quite a while but I do check all connections periodically....
An important part of George's original design criteria was that this mod could be built without soldering skills, with nothing more than simple hand tools.
But that doesn't mean it can't be improved if one does have soldering skills.
But that doesn't mean it can't be improved if one does have soldering skills.
This would make it somewhat permanent and cannot be disassembled.I'm sure I've posted it before, but: These joints don't need cleaning:
Probably I didn't understand it because something doesn't make sense to me.
Hopefully that is legible...
Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.
So the red wire goes from the solder tab connected to the 510 ground to the battery leaf and the black wire goes from the firing pin to the positive pin?
If that's correct than the pic on the right top should be to the large tab not small ?? Sorry got confused.
EDIT: brain fart, the small tab is the one connected to 510 pin right?
EDIT 2: nope it says formerly part of the switch
Yup. It was FORMERLY part of the switch. Now it's the positive contact.
These guys are going from full mech to wired. Might as well cannibalize some parts, no?
Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.
These guys are going from full mech to wired. Might as well cannibalize some parts, no?
Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.
Look at the pic more closely. Notice the bottom nut is loose and not soldered? It can be disassembled. The bottom battery contract can be replaced (it has to be de-soldered). And as stated above, I have in fact re-worked the 510 completely in this setup.
Awesome pics and instructions. I now have a couple ideas about getting mine wired up.
This was the first time I completely disassembled my Peko. Easy to get apart. Reassembly took a little trial and error to get the parts to go back together. Much better performance now.
This was the first time I completely disassembled my Peko. Easy to get apart. Reassembly took a little trial and error to get the parts to go back together. Much better performance now.
But why use the switch tab instead the already existing 510 pin tab?
You could use either, but the smaller one's shape makes it easy to fit through the slot once it's all together and soldered.
It also looks better because after it has been cut down and re-drilled, the tab's arm is roughly the same width as the wire, so it looks like it is supposed to be there.
I know that sounds strange, and has no bearing on the function of the circuit, but I like them to look nice and neat when I'm done. Kinda like having clean underwear when you go to the doctor's.
Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.
- Status
Similar threads
