Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

Status
Not open for further replies.

Aal_

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 5, 2012
7,077
18,611
Toronto
The CAD spec is 44mm. So if your part is ~45mm that is about 2% off spec? Sculpteo stated accuracy is:

"Accuracy ± 0.3% (with a limit of ± 0.3 mm)"

But I dont believe they state it as an actual guarantee. So maybe email them with a picture of the measurement with a precision caliper and ask how they would like to resolve. Or you could just build up the surface layer of sealant/finish.
Thank you gdeal I will try contacting them.
 

Merlin21

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 19, 2012
430
442
Northern New Jersey
Hello my Peko friends.... Hope everyone has recovered from their Christmas food comma...

I have seen everyone's 510 sits flush.... Mine seems to be raised a bit. Is that how it is supposed to be?

1228141424.jpg

I already shaved a little of the bottom step as per your recommendation and it worked great, 510 threads in nicely. Do I have to shave a little off the middle step in order for the 510 to sit flush with the top cap? Sorry if I am not making sense, here is a pic of the middle step I am talking about

1228141427.jpg

Thanks in advance
 

gdeal

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Aug 4, 2012
2,324
7,271
( -_-) Ω~
  • Deleted by Unforeseen
  • Reason: Unregistered Supplier

TyCreek

Another Vaper
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 19, 2013
565
1,588
Treasure Valley
A light knife edge around the hole surfaces (lowest hole right below your exacto tip) should clear out any plastic nubs or coating buildup. Typically I've only needed to slice a thin layer of clear coat out of the lip corner to get the 510 to pull down squarely in that recess (if all fit right prior to painting).
 

Merlin21

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Nov 19, 2012
430
442
Northern New Jersey
Merlin, the 510 should be flush. It looks like it might fit with a bit of compression from the nut underneath. If not shave a 1/10" of a hair off the wall.

A light knife edge around the hole surfaces (lowest hole right below your exacto tip) should clear out any plastic nubs or coating buildup. Typically I've only needed to slice a thin layer of clear coat out of the lip corner to get the 510 to pull down squarely in that recess (if all fit right prior to painting).

Thank you for answering gents. I did have to take off some material at the lowest hole where the 510 threads go through...... I also had to remove some material off the hole where the lip of the 510 goes in to. You can hear it click in now and it is flush.
 

drmarble

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 8, 2014
550
1,254
Oklahoma City, OK, USA
I found a slightly different method to cut down the heads on the Amazon vented screws. I put two nuts on and chucked it in my drill but it wasn't exactly centered. I then removed the nuts and put the screw into the 1/8" collet on my Dremel (authentic but ancient). The screw fit exactly. I spun away against a cheap emery board until it was 5.5mm diameter and 1.8mm thick. It took about 2 minutes. The threads aren't affected at all because the screw is evenly held by the collet.
 

ThreeDJ16

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Mar 19, 2013
3,035
12,291
USA
  • Deleted by Unforeseen
  • Reason: Unregistered Supplier

Aal_

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 5, 2012
7,077
18,611
Toronto
I only use 1000 between coats of poly so not to strip too much of the previous coat. If you are using paint for the sealant, doubt you will even notice a difference in high polish grit. Something in the 200 range should work fine. But the higher certainly won't hurt, just take you longer.

Thanks Drunk. I was prepping the bare white plastic to remove print lines and smooth it out for a matt finish. 600 didn't do much either. I should have been more clear. I think I will go something with 400. The white is also polished probably that is why it needs lower grit. I will however do some 1000 wipes in between coats.
 

David1975

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 30, 2014
562
707
Northlake, IL, USA
IMG_20141231_024846.jpgI used an old modelers trick on another print I had.... worked great, but you need to use caution and take your time.
Take an old empty testors jar and mix at 50/50 both Lacquer thinner and squadron white body filler.
Apply in thin coats and rough sand in-between coats with 1000.
I ended up getting the area smooth as glass before painting, but you have to use it sparingly..... the thinner melts into the plastic. This is why it works so well, the thinner cuts in and evaporates leaving only the filler behind, bonded to the plastic.
After the primmer coat, I sanded this with 1500, then 12000 and finally a liquid micro abrasive.

Edit: found and attached picture
 
Last edited:

Aal_

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 5, 2012
7,077
18,611
Toronto
Found this so I assume it is the same.

The throw adjustment should not be affected. Its pretty complex, but see the attached screen capture from the CAD. With the high top cap, there is an extra 1.5 mm of recess that the screw can go into. Its only needed to fully screw down the top cap to lock the device to prevent from firing and if you use a button top like in the CAD. If you use a button top battery, you can either turn it up side down or sand the the brass bolt down slightly, if needed. The lower button was a special request.

I think Mundy has one set up with the lower button, so if he is around he can speak to his build as well.

View attachment 380712
 

gdeal

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Aug 4, 2012
2,324
7,271
( -_-) Ω~
  • Deleted by Unforeseen
  • Reason: Unregistered Supplier

Aal_

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 5, 2012
7,077
18,611
Toronto
Good search skillz Aal. You got it, same assembly.
Thanks buddy.

Freaking weather it is 2 degrees C here and been snowing and raining all day in Athens. Good as new year's eve weather, bad for spraying peko on the balcony :facepalm:

I need a garage/basement/something but it's hard when you live in an apartment :D
 

gdeal

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Aug 4, 2012
2,324
7,271
( -_-) Ω~
  • Deleted by Unforeseen
  • Reason: Unregistered Supplier

gdeal

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Aug 4, 2012
2,324
7,271
( -_-) Ω~
  • Deleted by Unforeseen
  • Reason: Unregistered Supplier

Roscoe01

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Sep 17, 2014
2,558
7,521
North Dakota
I put minwax polycrylic on mine with a foam brush and it's been holding up great. A HARD months use already and other than the beauty ring and button all sealant intact thus far.

I am very impressed so far with the durability of this printed material. I destroyed the black wrinkle finish on my reo in just over a month to give you an idea how hard I am on them.
 

Alexander Mundy

Ribbon Twister
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 1, 2013
4,408
26,100
Springfield, MO
BTW, got a lathe for Christmas and leveraged it for one of these:

IMG_3009__80294.1410115461.1280.1280.JPG



Kossel 250 V-Slot 3D Printer - DIY Kit [BETA] - UltiBots LLC

Should ship the week of the 12th. Anyone have experience with a Kossel style delta printer?

(Yes I realize it won't be the quality of SLS prints, but one of those isn't in my budget):)
 

ThreeDJ16

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Mar 19, 2013
3,035
12,291
USA
  • Deleted by Unforeseen
  • Reason: Unregistered Supplier
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread