Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

[Flavored]

Yep. Too much on the lighter color, you can tell on the bottom. But I don't vape the bottom . . . The color was a bit uneven from Sculpteo, as well, but these are pack mule mods, not supposed to be pretty.

 

[MsLoud]

Meh, finally getting off my buttocks to see if I can get one of these together - missed all the co-ops so ill either have to wait for another to hopefully rolled around. Have a WTB parts up in the wanted section though

 

[MsGoddess2U]

I don't understand all the lingo but it looks way cool

 

[Aal_]

I dunno why I was worried about this part. It is the easiest thing I have done in a while. And I'm a first time modder. I haven't used a drill. No need to if you have a T or something to chuck the tap with. It just goes in nicely and the plastic is well plastic. Back and forth few times and that's it. It is not 100% centered which I was fooled by with naked eye, but screw does not touch the 510 and the oring will handle the extra space (pic without oring). It is better to do it vertically on a surface and not like me free hand . Thanks gdeal and thank you Rossum for the tap idea

 

[BlueSnake]

Here's a picture of my new Pekos that a generous member offered to paint for me. (I'm sure some of you will recognize his work)
Unfortunately the picture does not do them justice.

 

[BlueSnake]

I was wondering who the lucky winner was.... Drunk_J is like the Vincent Van Go of mod painting.

I agree 100%. If I did them myself they would be a solid color like black and/or blue and even then I could find a way to mess them up. I am very fortunate to have a friend like D_J who, out of the goodness of his heart, volunteered to do these for me.

 

[muzichead]

Here's a picture of my new Pekos that a generous member offered to paint for me. (I'm sure some of you will recognize his work)
Unfortunately the picture does not do them justice.

Very nice indeed... Can't wait to get going on mine. Now where are those parts???? Have they shipped yet??? Kidding of course.

 

[Clark F]

I really like the blue/gray one, excellent work.

 

[BobC]

I agree 100%. If I did them myself they would be a solid color like black and/or blue and even then I could find a way to mess them up. I am very fortunate to have a friend like D_J who, out of the goodness of his heart, volunteered to do these for me.

OK Blue, how I figure it is you must have sumpin really juicy on D_J that he don't want out, now that you have your (gorgeous) Pekos, time to let it outta the bag

 

[BlueSnake]

OK Blue, how I figure it is you must have sumpin really juicy on D_J that he don't want out, now that you have your (gorgeous) Pekos, time to let it outta the bag

I got nothin'. I think he just feels sorry for me.

 

[Kentastic]

Ok, so got my "themed" PeKos done. On the left is Batman's PeKo and on the right is my PeKochu mod.

Here is my "classic" PeKo. Can't go wrong with grey (aluminide) with black trimmings. This is the PeKo you take to formal events.

Last is still a work in progress. My PeKo done in all black detail. Lots more work than the others. Getting it nice and smooth. Now I've just got to figure out how to shine it all up and get rid of the last of the sanding marks. This thing is going to look great, but I'm not sure it's worth the cost and the work involved. I'll see if I change my mind once it's done.

 

[Aal_]

Ok guys. I finished my first peko. It is working excellent. Everything went well except the finishing. Who knew alkyd makes white yellowish . Anyway I want to ask about one thing and I have a suggestion and awaiting some opinions.

First my observation is that when tapping the derlin, the atomizer does not have any leeway for positioning. What I mean is once it makes contact that's it. I don't care about gaps it's given we can handle that using orings, but the issue is the airhole placement. I cannot control that. Of course using only one atty per peko solves it nicely.

Now my suggestion. Can we instead of tapping, go back to the initial design, just drill a tight hole for the screw, and then use 2 nuts instead of one for the positive lug to make it fixed on the screw but independent from the derlin insulator. This way the oring under the screw can act as a cushion for the atties, it will compress more or less depending on the atty. The whole positive screw will move up or down and it shouldn't affect anything other than pushing the tube further the tube into the bottle. We're talking about 1 mm maybe here or less even. Do you think that would work?

Thanks a lot everyone.

 

[OthatGuy]

You can always make the head shorter on the screw. ..

 

[Aal_]

You can always make the head shorter on the screw. ..

I don't get what you mean. How does that provide play in the 510 screw?

 

[Aal_]

Yes , that would work. But you can do the same thing by just torquing down on the oring to compress the oring. The height adjustability range is limited between having a seal with very little pressure on the oring and having max pressure on the oring.

So getting the starting height for the delrin insulator is key. I typically have it backed out an 2-3mm of the FD with the screw very tight on the oring. Then I fit my initial atty. If I dont get connection, I switch off with half turns on the screw (making it looser) and full turns on the delrin (making it tighter into the 510). If after four half turns on the screw, if I still dont have connection, I only tighten the delrin.

Course this depends on the atty you use when you do the fitting, but with this general concept, I usually can switch atties out afterwards by either slightly loosening the screw or slightly tightening it.

Great description gdeal. I got what you are intending to do which is making sure all your atties are the closest to the mod by playing with the derlin. However that does not help with turning the atty to position the airhole while always having contact which requires the screw being able to compress the oring by a push and not screwing . Anyway great tip for the derlin I will set the the derlin lower and losen the screw.

 

[Aal_]

Aal_ ...one more thought on the getting the airhole to line up where you want it to. While you wont be able to do it on the fly. You can also just readjust the 510 connector by loosening the nut and giving it a turn to the right spot, then re tighten.

You mean the whole FD connector negative? Yep that would be the easiest. Thanks!!

 

[BobC]

Just a suggestion,
I use an o-ring between the delrin and the 510 along with the o-ring on top of the 510, this provides enough play in the 510 for all my atties as it adds play due to increased compression capabilities while sealing the 510

 

[Aal_]

Just a suggestion,
I use an o-ring between the delrin and the 510 along with the o-ring on top of the 510, this provides enough play in the 510 for all my atties as it adds play due to increased compression capabilities while sealing the 510

But all parts are threaded. Derlin is threaded into 510 and screw threaded into derlin. I don't see how you can have play. The threaded components don't budge.

 

[Rossum]

Aal, if you want play, they don't all have to be threaded. You can always drill the delrin out to a clearance hole.

Me, I don't want play. I want a SOLID connection.

 

[Aal_]

Aal, if you want play, they don't all have to be threaded. You can always drill the delrin out to a clearance hole.

Me, I don't want play. I want a SOLID connection.

That's what I said in my original post. But i also mentioned that you need another nut to catch the lug since one nut will not be able to keep it tight on the screw. Rossum are you running your positive with a wire as well or wireless?