You can ask a mod to put the info you want in your 1st post on that thread... I have seen them do that for others in the past. Just pm one of them and they will take care of it.
Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod
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You can ask a mod to put the info you want in your 1st post on that thread... I have seen them do that for others in the past. Just pm one of them and they will take care of it.
I didn't measure ... just pulled out a big yellow and a couple small red ones from a terminal kit for a quick picture to show an easy option for those ordering parts. Then snipped off the ends for another pic and clamped them finger tight. Appeared quite usable to me. I'll certainly be using the small ones for the vented screws whenever I get more than a passing few minutes to tinker again (alas weeks away).
That's for A/C, not DC. Skin effect only happens when the voltage is alternating the magnetic field one direction then the other creating back EMF in the wire from the Eddie currents circulating around inside the wire perpendicular to its length.
From what I recall, crimp is preferred in AC applications, solder is preferred in small DC applications.
Soo... soldering is still better than crimping for our Peko's, right? Cause I soldered my first one. But I have a second coming and I could always crimp that one! 
-Mark
Here's a snippet for y'all !
My second Peko shell will be arriving soon. I sold my Bf Odin and my Nuppin resides on my first Peko and won't ever come off and only had the Rogue B/f and a few miscellaneous B/f'ers that I never use, so I bought a Marquis from Angelcigs for $10! Got it today and it had B/f in 10 minutes. Sqounks and drains great but does look huge on the Peko. But it works!
Can't beat the price IMHO
-Mark
Here's a snippet for y'all !
My second Peko shell will be arriving soon. I sold my Bf Odin and my Nuppin resides on my first Peko and won't ever come off and only had the Rogue B/f and a few miscellaneous B/f'ers that I never use, so I bought a Marquis from Angelcigs for $10! Got it today and it had B/f in 10 minutes. Sqounks and drains great but does look huge on the Peko. But it works!
Can't beat the price IMHO
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Solder, no solder, crimp all depends on view and tendencies one might have I personally prefer solder ... easy and permanent. Some mechanical purists shudder at the thought of solder and wire in a mod ... not me I just like things to work smoothly day in day out without tinkering with it. A good mod should make you feel comfortable leaving the house without a backup.
I personally prefer solder ... easy and permanent. Some mechanical purists shudder at the thought of solder and wire in a mod ... not me I just like things to work smoothly day in day out without tinkering with it. A good mod should make you feel comfortable leaving the house without a backup.
Locked leg for the vented screw connection is something rolling around in the back of my head so that pin adjustments would be that much easier. I've ripped off soldered wire from the washer when tightening after adjustment.
I am stoopid when it comes to this. I solder everything. Is there a line of though that leads to a crimp bing better? I know all I know from Mike, so if I am wrong, blame his pedological skills.
Yeah the more I thought about it solder just has to be best, hands down. Its the tightest most secure connection you can get. And since I used 16g wire and soldered ends to replace the whole lug setup, i have had ZERO issues and my mod fires everyday, all day. My 2nd Peko will be pretty much ALL soldered. it would be a challenge to take it back apart, but I'm hoping I'll never have to take it apart ever again once I'm done with it!
On Peko #2 I'm going to replace the brass rod with copper and solder as well as the button to 510. And the lug from the bar to the vent screw will be copper here's a thought... can I replace the negative terminal with a hunk of copper? Thinking I don't really need it springy, as copper is soft and wouldn't keep shape anyway... so I could just make a solid piece and have the battery sit on it. Y'all think it is worth it or just use the provided nickel terminal? I think if I had straight copper & solder from the negative all the way through the button and to the vent screw that performance would be amazing!
Thoughts/ advice greatly appreciated!!
-Mark
On Peko #2 I'm going to replace the brass rod with copper and solder as well as the button to 510. And the lug from the bar to the vent screw will be copper
here's a thought... can I replace the negative terminal with a hunk of copper? Thinking I don't really need it springy, as copper is soft and wouldn't keep shape anyway... so I could just make a solid piece and have the battery sit on it. Y'all think it is worth it or just use the provided nickel terminal? I think if I had straight copper & solder from the negative all the way through the button and to the vent screw that performance would be amazing! Thoughts/ advice greatly appreciated!!
-Mark
A copper slab may just make it rattle. I feel it needs the springiness to keep it in place. A modified REO spring would probably work, based on how they look (yup, I don't own a REO), but this seems unnecessary.
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How many of you all are running your battery with positive end down? I run my flat tops all that way In the peko.
In principle, stranded wires that are subject to movement or vibration should not be soldered. Reason: The solder tends to wick into the wire beyond the point where it's rigidly supported, which makes it brittle and subject to breaking. This is why you won't find solder in a car or aircraft wiring harness.
That said, I still use a soldered wire to my Pekos' firing button and it hasn't broken yet.
That said, I still use a soldered wire to my Pekos' firing button and it hasn't broken yet.
Your right Jasen, I'll just build it the way it's suppose to be. And Rossum, yeah I did the same mod you did and my button ALWAYS fires when pressed. And I like how smooth it is, it's not moving at an angle like with the solder lugs. Just straight up and down smoothness!
And Roscoe, I've heard of people doing this. But I just don't understand the point and how it still works? Somebody care to explain? Man, makes me feel like an idiot I'm sure a lightbulb will go off when y'all tell me!
-Mark
And Roscoe, I've heard of people doing this. But I just don't understand the point and how it still works? Somebody care to explain? Man, makes me feel like an idiot I'm sure a lightbulb will go off when y'all tell me!
-Mark
The way the peko circuit is set up the bottom spring terminal is actually connected to the positive post of the atty. It will work with battery put In either way but I like to abuse the negative end of my batteries some since my other mods all abuse the pos.
I run my flat top positive down because if I don't it seems to tear up the battery wrapper around the positive post. And someone correct me if I'm wrong but I thought these were built with the positive on the bottom.
(except for button tops where gdeal mentioned it in the doc)
Hey Drunk_J... is that gold paint on the matching pair? What paint did you use?
Looks good!
The 24K gold paint I tried with several different clear coats is going in the trash ... it starts off bright and shiny but then changes color with every clear coat I've tried. Worst thing is that the normally hard top coats don't wear well when applied to my 24K paint.
The 24K gold paint I tried with several different clear coats is going in the trash ... it starts off bright and shiny but then changes color with every clear coat I've tried. Worst thing is that the normally hard top coats don't wear well when applied to my 24K paint.
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