Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

[Merlin21]

Jesus people, I take a nap and you're killing me off, stealing my parts and something about putting nasty pics up on a web site??? WT...? LoL. Yup, beta tester gotta have parts. And seeing as how i smoke the hell out of ribs myself, those just won't do. Takes something very different in the food dept. What i really want now is a couple of good carne asdas from somewhere in San Diego! LoL.

FYI, I heard sumpin about a parts website myself. Just not 100% on the when. But I am betting you'll find it right here when it happens.

Sa-weet!!!!

 

[RGLP4Lyfe]

Were those beans meant to be spilled?

I guess they weren't... I messed up. I had thought people already knew... [emoji16]

-Mark

 

[junquedujour]

I guess they weren't... I messed up. I had thought people already knew... [emoji16]

-Mark

SURPRISE!!!




heh.

 

[RGLP4Lyfe]

SURPRISE!!!




heh.

Man, I feel like a dip s***

My bad guys, i wasn't aware that is it wasn't "out there" yet...


-Mark

 

[muzichead]

Man, I feel like a dip s***

My bad guys, i wasn't aware that is it wasn't "out there" yet...


-Mark

You obviously missed my last post... It was already mentioned a week or so back. Can't remember if it was this thread or the new one... It was already put out there though...

 

[RGLP4Lyfe]

You obviously missed my last post... It was already mentioned a week or so back. Can't remember if it was this thread or the new one... It was already put out there though...

No muzic I didn't miss it. I seen it and thought, wow I have been telling people for a few weeks now, when somebody asked I told them this was happening soon. So I figured you seen one of my posts a few weeks ago.

-Mark

 

[ronnbert]

No one is gonna sell you one for the Coop price, so, you're not gonna save much from the individual prices

Technically no one can sell anything on classifieds over the co-op price if bought from the co-op. So that is why no one will list one there lol!

 

[dethnode]

thread go dead????

 

[junquedujour]

been doing a li'l chat/show 'n tell over here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=649413

 

[junquedujour]

but please read the thread title and first post or i am gonna get skinned for pointing you to it.

kidding.






kinda.

 

[HappiVappi]

Hey guys,
I am clearly at war with the 510 - this thing makes me all cranky....
I assembled it just the way outlined in the build doc, yet it leaves just 3.5 mm from the top of the 510 to the top of the vented screw. None of my atties will "bite".
Normally the 510 connector on the atty side of things is anywhere between 4.5 and 4.95 mm.

The way I see it is either taking the O-ring out or to "lower" the delrin insert. Sure enough, the whole thing is not supposed to be that way. Cutting the delrin off without messing up the quite delicate threading is not the best thing I can think of either, even if I find a nut which could be used to thread and clean the cut again.

Anybody else having that issue?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

 

[drmarble]

Lower the delrin. That is what works for me.

 

[muzichead]

I do understand this is not necessary, but what I use is an an o-ring on the delrin insert underneath to take up the gap of it being unthreaded from the 510 connector. This way I can still keep the connector and everything snug at least. It is only 1-1.5mm gap at worst... This ensures my atty will sit flush on my device.

 

[HappiVappi]

Thank you for your fast response. Will try all the above....

 

[BobC]

Hey guys,
I am clearly at war with the 510 - this thing makes me all cranky....
I assembled it just the way outlined in the build doc, yet it leaves just 3.5 mm from the top of the 510 to the top of the vented screw. None of my atties will "bite".
Normally the 510 connector on the atty side of things is anywhere between 4.5 and 4.95 mm.

The way I see it is either taking the O-ring out or to "lower" the delrin insert. Sure enough, the whole thing is not supposed to be that way. Cutting the delrin off without messing up the quite delicate threading is not the best thing I can think of either, even if I find a nut which could be used to thread and clean the cut again. Anybody else having that issue? Any help greatly appreciated. Cheers.

If my screw is sitting too high in the 510, I just back the delrin out a couple turns. But when I set up an atty on the device, I actually have the delrin backed out first. Then I put on atty on the device and get it flush with the top of the 510. Then I tighten the the delrin back up. Perfect fit every time.

You can also put an o-ring between the delrin and the the 510 casing, Also, sounds like your screw head may not be ground down enough

Edit, same as what Muzichead said, didn't see his response

 

[BobC]

This exact thing was happening to me when I just tightened the 510 screw down on top of the o-ring. I would have to back out the delrin. Was talking with Gdeal one day about something and he mentioned doesn't the o-ring squeeze out up the sides of my 510 screw head. So I powered the 510 screw in even further into the delrin until the O-ring just gave up and squeezed up the sides and that was a perfect fit on a couple of my atties (without the upper o-ring under the atty housing). Seems when I use the big o-ring under the atty housing I didn't really need to do this and had to adjust it back up. But like everyone posted here, there are several ways you can do this easily. So no problems.

D_J, the o-ring placement I'm talking about is on the bottom where the delrin screws into the casing, it's the same as backing out the delrin, but it eliminates a loose delrin

 

[Aal_]

I don't mind having the correct oring under the atty to make up for the gap. This prevents from re adjusting if I change the atty. I just pick up another oring or no oring at all.

 

[RGLP4Lyfe]

I know everybody already said this. But it's the delrin! And that o ring that goes in between the vent and 510 needs to be smashed down and almost going up the side, that will make sure you are completely insulated. Don't cut or mess with your delrin you will get it right. Have it backed out then attach attys base and tighten from there. Be careful though the last one I build I was making sure my Nuppin was completely flush and I had it tightened in the 510 and was cranking on the delrin/ screw/ nut and everything was so flush and perfect. I put it all together, tube and bottle and had to build the atty. Then I couldn't get the freakin base off the dang 510. It was almost welded on. So I had to take it all apart and take pliers to the base and 510 base. It was a very tight stainless to stainless connection!

-Mark

 

[TyCreek]

I use no o-rings and keep the delrin tight. Adjustment is by raising the vented screw a half turn or so or a few passes of a file on the atty pin.

 

[finagle69]

To Ken, Gdeal, and anyone else building a 26650: The two additional solder lugs (7332) are better replaced with the 7331 Keystone lugs. They're identical in all aspects except the larger hole is smaller by 0.5mm ish. I just got a large packet of them in. Basically with the 7332, if you cheat the brass rod to the edge of the lug, you can see a sizeable gap past the nuts. With the 7331, its reduced to basically no gap.

7332

7331