That's very cool. I'm all for using thicker rod for the 26650. I'll try it with the rod I have, but PM me with part numbers for rod and nuts.
Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod
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You beta testers rock. I understand that modding is a hobby for you but just thinking about all of the purchases, the waiting, the projects sitting fallow on benches for lack of a single part: Thank you.
I'm (im)patiently waiting for the next group buy of parts for whichever of gdeal's mods fires off first, Im'ma build every one of them that people bother to do a group buy for the parts. Maybe it'll kick off a modding hobby for me, maybe I'll just have the coolest 3D printed squonker in my local vape shop. Whichever.
I'm (im)patiently waiting for the next group buy of parts for whichever of gdeal's mods fires off first, Im'ma build every one of them that people bother to do a group buy for the parts. Maybe it'll kick off a modding hobby for me, maybe I'll just have the coolest 3D printed squonker in my local vape shop. Whichever.
is their a walk thru for ordering a body for the Gdeal kit(co-op - oct) I bought?doesnt seem to be like the shapeways place where ya pick what ya want to get.unless im at the wrong place...lol.which is totally possible.sorry for the stupid post but if ya could help me out it'd be great.thanks.
Here is where you want to go: Gdeal's shop | Sculpteo | 3D printing
I got the white polished because I didn't have any white mods. I can always paint it later. Gdeal and others recommend the polished. The color is only skin deep; it's dyed.
Here's the latest version from Sculpteo... Much better quality than Shapeways... 'Peko v2.1 - All Parts - Both Buttons' | 3D Printing | Sculpteo
kool thanks for the fast comeback.after bailing out of the praxxis derringer buy, I had to do something to feel better,so why not get the body and parts for my other kit.guess its a good thing for praxis to have to much business,itll keep ppl waitng...for a lil bit anyways.ill get a clone from the slowboat sometime and just vape it.i can buy 10 clones and drill the copper pin and vape like I am 13 yrs old!lol.clones are a necessary evil in times like this one with the derringer anyway.
addit:should I get the standard thickness or mark the other box?/?.....im goin with standard I think the other looks to be even thinner.
addit:should I get the standard thickness or mark the other box?/?.....im goin with standard I think the other looks to be even thinner.
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well I learned on that post.thought the lower #was thinner part,but the higher price point didn't make sense.got it now though.ive got time to mess with sanding /painting and all that stuff.be a good experience for sure.26650 looks kool too,but ima back off and do the 2 kits I have first...lol.thanks for the info G
Just checked my Sculpteo order for the 26650. Looks like all the parts ship today for arrival on Friday. 
First thank you all for 510 tips. I got this sorted and the mod works just fine now.
I noticed two things though. On most pics I have seen here, if not all, it looks as if nobody is using the O-ring between atty and the 510. I did and sure enough no way to have the atty sitting flush. It does not really bother me that much and I am thinking without that O-ring, juice could eventually creep out of the slots of the 510 - or is that not really an issue?
One other thing, which actually bothers me. I am using the stiffer spring in the fire button and that causes an ever so slight bending of the top part. The 510 and the counter nut underneath are tight as possible, but on the other side the spring seems to push the parts a bit apart. Any hints?
Thanks again.
Cheers.
I noticed two things though. On most pics I have seen here, if not all, it looks as if nobody is using the O-ring between atty and the 510. I did and sure enough no way to have the atty sitting flush. It does not really bother me that much and I am thinking without that O-ring, juice could eventually creep out of the slots of the 510 - or is that not really an issue?
One other thing, which actually bothers me. I am using the stiffer spring in the fire button and that causes an ever so slight bending of the top part. The 510 and the counter nut underneath are tight as possible, but on the other side the spring seems to push the parts a bit apart. Any hints?
Thanks again.
Cheers.
I never know what you're sayin anyways, but the conversation was about the screw height, so I ...-U-ME(d) you were continuing the conversation
I think I try a drop of CA. That should do it for a while. Thanks.
That is hilarious.....
Cheers.
Somebody just posted a peko kit with shell on classys for $130. Isn't it against the rules to profit on coop stuff?
Unless the shell is one of those fine prints, and polished on top of that, and a color other than white, yeah I'm sure that's against the rules. Parts kit total is well below $20 so unless the shell is some amazing fine print, I'd say it's a rip off.
-Mark
Well that makes more sense.. that still seems steep though. I guess if somebody wants to get the whole mod/ parts in one swift buy then that's cool. But I'm not rich and like to source everything out I need.
-Mark
My opinion is its wrong either way for someone to profit off your design but if your ok with it no worries.
I just wanted to make sure u were aware of the situation is all. It's not my concern. I just wanted to raise the flag.
I bought 2 internals on the coop and just ended up buying a v1 with hardware and all from someone. Now it's been sitting here waiting for me to get the time to build it. I've fallen so far behind on all these posts. I'll try to figure this out. Is the internal plastic part supposed to be so tight? I was test fitting things and almost like to not got it out of the shell.
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