Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

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gdeal

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gdeal

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SeanMoore

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I should have done a polished color one...

So are the builders happy with polished color from sculpteo? I know it's just skin deep but if they are printing them right then no shaping of the outside needs to be done and the color can just be clear coated? I assume they can do Bronco Orange and that sounds pretty damn cool to me. I'm sure I can find some decals somewhere and then just finish it like a plastic model from back when we were kids, I remember color sanding the clear coat to make the edges of the decals disappear. GO LOCAL SPORTS TEAM!
 

pauly3

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There were a couple on the reonauts fb group this weekend i think

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

I got one! Now to read 190 pages and learn how to get it going! Or.... can someone direct me to the Cliff Notes version please!

IMG_1657%202_zpseweem7ae.jpg
 

finagle69

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So are the builders happy with polished color from sculpteo? I know it's just skin deep but if they are printing them right then no shaping of the outside needs to be done and the color can just be clear coated? I assume they can do Bronco Orange and that sounds pretty damn cool to me. I'm sure I can find some decals somewhere and then just finish it like a plastic model from back when we were kids, I remember color sanding the clear coat to make the edges of the decals disappear. GO LOCAL SPORTS TEAM!

Absolutely. All of the sanding and shaping I did was to internal, non-visible parts. Mine was ordered RED top cap and body, and GREY ring and buttons. I've seen others here have issues with some parts darker than others, but mine miraculously came out perfect from them. I slapped 3 coats of poly sealer on it and ran with it. :)

Anyone (except RGLP4Lyfe :p) can go here and see all the pics I've taken of the parts of mine. 26650 Peko - Album on Imgur
 

Henry Etta

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The big solder lug is under the small... shouldn't of had so many beers... I'll switch them. Thanks!

So I switched the solder lugs and installed the spring. The button is now perfect!
Still having a hell of a time with the 510. All sorts of problems. Maybe the 510 is bad like someone mentioned earlier. The brass ring keeps loosening. If I put the screw far enough down for my atty to screw in properly, it won't fire. If I move it up, I can't screw the atty on. If I screw the atty on, then adjust the screw but turning the nut underneath, the atty gets stuck and turns the whole 510. Right now I have it on there, firing great, but as soon as I take it off, everything will be messed up again. Am I missing something? I will try the 510 I get with my next parts kit and see if it's better.
 

drmarble

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I have had trouble with some of my FatDaddy 510s being loose. I have no trouble with the outside threads but the atomizer threads are loose. Atomizers screw into the delrin end just fine but they barely catch on the atomizer end. In one I just gave up and use a Magma. The long pin comes in handy. Some connectors have been tighter than others. I thought that my problem was that I have cheap clones but if you are having problems with a Nuppin then that isn't it.I wonder if he intentionally loosens up the threads so it is easier to start threading the atomizer but sometimes he gets carried away and makes them too loose. I think I will try a little bit of copper tape to tighten the very loose ones up.
Someone, and I guess that's us, needs to come up with another/better squonking 510 connection. Or FatDaddy needs to improve his quality control.
 

Aal_

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Hey gdeal. I have assembled my 2.1 peko. To be honest i preferred the design of the previous version solely for ease of assembly. Not sure if printing is the issue or the change in specs but here it goes.
1- the internal part you added a block to the rod on the top, it took me more time to assemble it.
2- the way of locking the top cap with the internals also make it harder to assemble although it is a great idea that prevents bending. So I'm torn here.
3- the top cap seems bigger in height? This lead to less throw in button adjustments.
4- button hole and button tolerance is now very small. It looks great and there is no wobble or play but with sealing the button is getting stuck and refuses to play nicely. So mainly it's my fault for not knowing the tolerances got smaller :facepalm:
5- the 510 opening seems larger now as the 510 is not being threaded hard but easily and might not need threading at all. That's probably a good thing for some but I prefer it hard and stable :D.

I disassembled it last night around 4 times because I couldn't get the button feel as I have it on the previous 2. I could have sanded the opening of the button which was probably the main issue but I realized it after the last assemble and facepalmed myself :facepalm:

So let me rephrase that. V1 is probably better because I got used to it :D. Now I have 2 V1 and 1 V2. From the looks and use V2 is better but in terms of assembling I found v1 easier. Lets see how my second v2 turns out with all the surprises discovered.

Thanks for a great device man.
 

gdeal

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rudedog

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ive only built one of the 18650 and the body was sent with the kit I bought.only had a few things I had to work out.had to do quite a bit of cutting out where the 510 threads in,so this was prolly not the latest version.but hey im okay with it.i didn't think this would be just snap together.makes it a challenge and I dig a challenge.the other place I had to massage with exzacto knife was the place where the 2nd magnat goes in.before I cleaned out the socket (4lack of better word)the body wouldn't snap together with the magnet sitting on top like the build doc says to do.but when I took the mag off it would snap clean together.

I wasn't sure where the mag went when ya closed the two pieces together so I was just shaving the black color off where the flat is around the magnet hole.once the magnet did seat it was clear where the magnet needed to be.so I just left magnet where it seated after making sure the enclosure would snap(lack of bettr word) fully together I put some SG around the 2nd magnet and after it dried I have had a great experience.im waiting on a polished white version as we speak.

also waiting on the lugs and other hardware for a 26650.havent been able to order the big body kit yet though.i don't even own a 26650 batt...lol.but the pics looked really good and it seems like itll be even more ergonomic form fitting to the hand....for me.almost forgot the 510 connection was a bit crooked so I did have to wallow out one side of where the 510 sits so it would sit lower in the recess and now my PDA atty sits super nice with a teeny tiny gap just like I wanted.

so gdeal for a first time builder of one of these it was a great experience.i hated to get it done cuz I don't have my other body kit here yet...lol.3/9 is when they said itd be done and shipped if I recall correctly...which I may not have!!!lol.if it weren't for all the extra help and tips from all the folks who come here idk if id be done yet or not but its a great place to get help and make great new "net friends" and all are appreciated for sure!!!-------Rick





Sound like you need to tighten the 510 brass lug tighter. Hold the top of the 510 with a penny and torque that lug/nut tighter. I find the best way to get a solid connection is to loosen the delrin insulator slightly first. This brings the head of the vented screw down. Then put your atty on and get good compression against the oring and the the top of the 510. Then tighten the delrin to get the screw to meet the atty 510 pin. No leaks, perfect connection every time.

FD classics can be wonky sometimes, but I hear ya, its frustrating when the threads dont line up perfectly.
 

rudedog

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ive became a pekomod junky!!lol.debating on offing my reo grand silver vien but since I got it I updated with the S/O kit and have 150.00 in it and I hate dealing with lowball offers.so maybe if I use it a while then I wont feel like I took a bath on it if I off it for less.it is a gorgeous mod though and when I got it was amazed at how well it had been taken care of.not a nick,scratch or scuff anywhere!i need to get a camera so I can learn to take and upload to my computer.my stepson that got re-arrested and locked back up used to do all my pic taking and up loading to my facebook.from there I could download off FB and get them to here.

I don't even have a cell phone cuz the stepson run us into debt I let mine go cuz I wasn't under contract.i wont go into full blown detail with the crap my stepson has put us threw but its not been an easy road.only good thing is he will be 18 in aug and its lookin like he will be locked up til then.but we still owe a crapton of money for fines/and all other BS he charged up on our dime!these kids nowdays don't even realize how much they have at their disposal!...mayhaps not the right word but that's how they treat most everything now...disposable!.sucks bigtime and especially for the almost 2 yr old baby girl he has and doesn't pay support on....we do!anyways sorry I got off track here but im looking forward to the white polished body that's on its way the 9th I think.thanks for the encouragement Mark


Glad you enjoyed it Rick. I told you you could do it!!

-Mark
 

finagle69

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I don't even have a cell phone cuz the stepson run us into debt I let mine go cuz I wasn't under contract.i wont go into full blown detail with the crap my stepson has put us threw but its not been an easy road.only good thing is he will be 18 in aug and its lookin like he will be locked up til then.but we still owe a crapton of money for fines/and all other BS he charged up on our dime!these kids nowdays don't even realize how much they have at their disposal!...mayhaps not the right word but that's how they treat most everything now...disposable!.sucks bigtime and especially for the almost 2 yr old baby girl he has and doesn't pay support on....we do!anyways sorry I got off track here but im looking forward to the white polished body that's on its way the 9th I think.thanks for the encouragement Mark

I hate hearing about things like this. So sorry for what you're going through and have to put up with. I have a close personal friend who's dealing with a very similar situation, except its his own mother doing it to him. :(
 

gdeal

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HappiVappi

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So I switched the solder lugs and installed the spring. The button is now perfect!
Still having a hell of a time with the 510. All sorts of problems. Maybe the 510 is bad like someone mentioned earlier. The brass ring keeps loosening. If I put the screw far enough down for my atty to screw in properly, it won't fire. If I move it up, I can't screw the atty on. If I screw the atty on, then adjust the screw but turning the nut underneath, the atty gets stuck and turns the whole 510. Right now I have it on there, firing great, but as soon as I take it off, everything will be messed up again. Am I missing something? I will try the 510 I get with my next parts kit and see if it's better.

Happy that I am not the only one with being upset about those wonky FD 510. So I know your pain.
I sorted my leaking issue by adding an o-ring to the FD 510 (outside) to seal the top cap. I am still having issues with the center pin of the Zenith atty not sealing to the vented screw. This is a design flaw (NOT GDeal!) in general. Even though the screw head is fairly flat, but if the atty sits in the FD 510 a bit off center, juice will flush up and out. It's all about finding a proper o-ring to stop that. The hard part for me is that the Zenith center pin is shorter than average.

Over at Bottom Feeders http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/624683-bottom-feeders-place-everything-modified-custom-made.html are some geniuses fiddling with hybrid connections and one guy managed to have a spring loaded bf going. I am looking to do something like that, because all the FD 510 I got from the coop appear to be out of spec.

Cheers.
 
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ronnbert

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{snip} Hold the top of the 510 with a penny {snip}

I found out last night a nickel works better for me on the 510 connector. A bit thicker and more metal to grasp when adjusting things.

Took my peko apart last night (again) to tighten up some nuts that have gotten loose somehow. I noticed it wasn't hitting too hard, so I figured it needed some tweaking. The main one I have to fix mostly is the nut on the button above the solder lug. I think I have found a way to fix that though, whenever I adjust button, I put flat head in screw to keep stationary and spin button to adjust throw. Now I know me having to do this is because of the superglue on the threads of the nut in my button, so YMMV.
 

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RGLP4Lyfe

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I found out last night a nickel works better for me on the 510 connector. A bit thicker and more metal to grasp when adjusting things.

Took my peko apart last night (again) to tighten up some nuts that have gotten loose somehow. I noticed it wasn't hitting too hard, so I figured it needed some tweaking. The main one I have to fix mostly is the nut on the button above the solder lug. I think I have found a way to fix that though, whenever I adjust button, I put flat head in screw to keep stationary and spin button to adjust throw. Now I know me having to do this is because of the superglue on the threads of the nut in my button, so YMMV.
Maybe Gdeal meant use a penny cause not everyone's rich there, Ronnbert!! Haha! Just kidding around.
But a great fix for loose bolts is to get rid of them and solder! Better conductivity also. I soldered my button to 510 lugs in all me Pekos. Soon to be 3 ! The lugs for the third are already soldered and ready to go in.

-Mark
 

gdeal

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