You could try the rit dye and If you don't like the results you could paint over it. Another consideration Is dye Is a penetrating treatment so nicks and dings will be less likely to show up. Just food for thought.
Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod
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Well...lol..... As you can see I was shooting for a pearl gray for the body and top cap with a light blue ring and button...Ooops 
.....
Came out sort of like a worn denim blue, I really like the contrast with the white ring and white button.... Colors of my Greek Flag..... I think I am going to keep it like this
Now to seal it and modify the Atomic to a BF atty....
.....Came out sort of like a worn denim blue, I really like the contrast with the white ring and white button.... Colors of my Greek Flag..... I think I am going to keep it like this
Now to seal it and modify the Atomic to a BF atty....
Looks great to me just an FYI for when you mod your atomic to bf. I tried for over an hour to unscrew the center pin before It realized it was pressed in! I ended up notching the insulator on mine. My atomic is an eh pro clone.Well...lol..... As you can see I was shooting for a pearl gray for the body and top cap with a light blue ring and button...Ooops
Came out sort of like a worn denim blue, I really like the contrast with the white ring and white button.... Colors of my Greek Flag..... I think I am going to keep it like this
View attachment 394207
Now to seal it and modify the Atomic to a BF atty....
View attachment 394210
that turned out grrrrrrrrrrrrreat Merlin21!!! i bought some black powdered dye this time for my incoming shells. i am hoping it actually comes out close to black this time. the tan liquid RiT turned out dusty olive green. haha!
Thanks everyone! Can't wait to get the parts and get it up and running
Roscoe, I have the exact same one from Ehpro and because of the slit in the 510 pin I thought it unscrewed as well
...... I am going to send you a P.M if thats ok about the atty, don't want to clutter the threadI think black is the safest color for Rit Dye as I can't see it changing to any other color but then again look at my attempt at Pearl Gray and your Tan
.... Not complaining I love the way it came out but it is funny
oh boy. this should be interesting then, cuz i'm not a big blue fan. my intent is to go over the *black* base with other paint so i can only hope that it's at least a darker shade of blue. :-[
p.s. i'm going to be using the powder this time AND the vinegar.
We can compare notes. I think I'm going to finally have time to dye this weekend. I've had my parts soaking for two days now, and I plan to boil them for about half an hour before the black powder Rit. I'll probably keep them at close to boiling for another thity minutes with the dye.
One thing I've noticed. I thoroughly sanded the shell, cap, ring, and button, but not the internal (which I may leave white.) When I first put the parts in the water to soak, all of them floated,and I put a paper towel in over them to hold them down. After about an hour, the sanded parts sank on their own, but the internal is still floating after two days. If I do dye the internal, I'll be curious to see if there's a difference in pigment absorption.
my current order from shapeways is still *processing* so i was reading thru the link for dying 3d plastic that someone originally posted on one of these Peko threads. apparently the rit dye does not need the vinegar just the jacquard brand dyes need it. hmmm.
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OK, that was the concern I originally posted, but Roscoe had replied with info from Sculpteo saying the plastic should be good up to 248F...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=14464938
I've read a few places that keeping printed nylon at near boiling is the key to getting the dye to take deeply, and I think he boiled his. I'll do some more checking.
I can attest that I boiled mine with no deformation to the nylon material and my dye took very well. I also can confirm that I was not getting good color penetration at lower Temps. I used a thermometer in the pot. YMMV
in also used vinegar with my powder rit dye per recommendation from elsewhere on the Web.
ETA. My parts were from sculpteo
One cup vinegar to 2 cups water
ETA. I followed these instructions
http://m.instructables.com/id/How-to-Dye-Your-Nylon-3D-Prints/all/<br/>
ETA. I followed these instructions
http://m.instructables.com/id/How-to-Dye-Your-Nylon-3D-Prints/all/<br/>
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i wonder if the crockpot would get hot enough. i'll have to dig it out of it's deep dark place, dust it off, and test it with a thermometer to see how hot water will get in it. it might actually get used again for the first time in 8-10 years. heh.
Crock pot will bring liquid to a simmering boil.
I use crockpots several tiems a year to keep myself stocked upo n home made hot sauce.
Was pretty much following your lead on this, and I largely followed those instructions, as well. As said previously, I'd had the polished white parts from Sculpteo soaking in tap water (with just a touch of dish detergent) for the past couple days. Shell, button, cap, and ring were thoroughly sanded on their exteriors; no sanding on the internal. I decided to just dye the whole shebang with the black Rit powder and call it a day.
I filled an old pot (ca. 6" diam. x 3" deep) with enough tap water to submerge the parts and then (based on your success) added probably a quarter cup of vinegar. Brought that to a simmering boil on the stove, transferred the parts from my soaking can, and let them bubble for about thirty minutes. Then added the entire package of Rit powder and boiled for another thirty while constantly stirring/agitating with some impromptu tongs bent from a clothes hanger. Removed the pot from the heat and allowed to soak for another hour with a paper towel on top of the parts to hold them down. Took out the parts and rinsed thoroughly.
Here is the result with a few quick coats of Krylon #1311 matte to seal after thorough drying. I stuck my black wrinkle Reo Mini 2.1 in for comparison and forced the iPad to overexpose slightly so the color can be seen. It's more a slate black, however the color was deeper and closer to the Reo when wet, and I suspect that would remain the case if a gloss sealer were used...
I had been curious as to whether the sanding would affect the dye absorption, but the color seems to have taken equally on the internal...
There is some slight color variation in the grooves that doesn't show in the photo. The one place where the color did tinge toward blue as others have experienced was at the bottoms of the recesses for the 510 and atty o-ring. I had shaved these down with a chisel X-acto blade to compensate for surface sanding the top...
I'll likely add a few more coats of Krylon with wet sanding between to even out the remaining variations caused by the uneven pores in the plastic. I still might try my fret wire ring idea, as well. Also waiting on replacements of my broken button magnets to complete assembly.
Wow that looks really good. You can't even see any print lines at all. I think you are right that a gloss sealer would darken the color some.
I saw another vid where a guy got similar results with the black Rit powder on ABS plastic by adding acetone to the dye mix. Apparently boiling doesn't work with the ABS, but the acetone did once he'd added enough. I have a feeling that would work on the nylon, too, but I wasn't keen on getting an acetone buzz on to test it out, today.
Use a metal button and ring?
I just finished that one. I believe the ring and button are Shapeways' nickel steel. It was a pain. The ring was under-sized and required quite a bit of "fitting" using a Dremel on the inside surfaces of the ring. The socket where the hex spacer goes in the button was also a somewhat under-sized, so the spacer had to be sanded to fit. FWIW, the textures look more subdued in person than in that pic.
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