Yup, using light spring in one of mine and magnet in the other (to test the difference). But both actuate super easy provided they are adjusted properly and the connecting leafs are aligned within their slots, then locked down.
Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod
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Yup, using light spring in one of mine and magnet in the other (to test the difference). But both actuate super easy provided they are adjusted properly and the connecting leafs are aligned within their slots, then locked down.
So the tiny little screw that holds my solder rings has disappeared. It still fires just fine, but makes me nervous... there's a click now every time I press the fire button and the solder rings make contact.
Don't have the time to fix it right now. Gonna need more spare screws and nuts of that tiny size.
Don't have the time to fix it right now. Gonna need more spare screws and nuts of that tiny size.
mostly misfires. Lots of movement in that area when I'm pressing the fire button. Sometimes it won't fire, sometimes it does. Sometimes if fires and then abruptly stops in the middle of a vape. Every time I've had problems I've traced it back to the screw being loose in the picture. I'm just going to solder it together. Other than this one issue, I've been loving my Peko.
If you tighten that little screw then heat the whole thing red hot with torch the tin coating kinda welds itself together. I learned that while annealing per gdeals suggestion
It looks the same as my alumide one which is good. Outside measurements and inside also look the same. Not sure you can see anything with a pic. Can't take one now. But is there a way to fix it? One side is a bit loose. And the other side is completely loose.
Thanks gdeal. I will try to take a pic tomorrow. i tried another body it's the same. Also I tried the body with another ring it was good. So it is the ring. Is 1mm difference on the inside above the ridge out of spec? What is the tolerance at Sculpteo? Will take pics and measurements again tomorrow and post them. Thanks.
Super glue to the reeeescue! lol
Wait, it's a bird, no it's a plane...it's superglue man! Yeah, I haven't been getting enough sleep lately.
I finally put mine together tonight. I didn't strip that little bolt, but I did manage to strip the end of the brass rod when trying to tighten the nuts around the battery contact. Luckily, I had left it about 5mm longer than the specified 75 when cutting it to length, and I was able to clip off the stripped portion.
Flipping those two switch solder lugs around per the revised build doc really does make a big difference in the ease and pitch of the throw, and I'm now pretty happy with it. I have my Reactor on it now, and it's firing like a champ. We'll see if I hit any snags.
I did wind up fouling my finish a bit with the wet sanding between coats of Krylon matte. It's very smooth, but I hit some high spots where the sandpaper started to contact the Rit dye. Where that happened, it's (you guessed it...) blue. I may strip the esterior and paint it with enamel, but for now I'm going to test drive as-is for a few days.
Thanks big again, Gdeal!
Hmm. One of my kits, the brass rod is too long. About half an inch longer than any of the other three
Yeah, just nip off the excess. If you use side cutters, be sure you have already threaded the nuts on. Only trim one end, if you don't trim it clean, you can no longer thread the nuts on and off. Man that just sounded wrong.
Here is the build doc....I think he may reference it somewhere or a size. I don't know, never read instructions.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/08ux4htcd1pgauu/Peko V1.1 Mechanical Mod Build.pdf?dl=0
I just snipped mine with a pair of wire cutters, then sanded the end to get rid of any rough threads. Worked fine.
Hello and a question to the thread: vented screws, can this screw work? http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=90550A350
The V-shape of a flat-head screw would be less than optimal for sealing and you'd still need to reduce the diameter of the head.
I hear there's an open coop for the correct screws going on somewhere around here.
I hear there's an open coop for the correct screws going on somewhere around here.
Okay, done, wow..and thanks and I still have four of those McMasters I can grind on till the real deal gets to the house.
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