Can someone post the revised build doc...... I haven't read every page so, am not familiar with the changes, sorry..... Anyone?
Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod
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It's here...
http://db.orangedox.com/gNV6GTduBhAvZgt3kQ/Peko V1.1 Mechanical Mod Build.pdf
Note that the link at the beginning of the doc will always take you to the most recent version.
Curious to what u decided for a finish? I know u posted up some really cool options earlier on.
I'm clearing my schedule starting Monday, so I should be able to find some time to complete this little guy.... Its going to have to be something I can do not opting for hydrographics so maybe dye and seal!
Sculpteo says that my white polished complete kits should be here on the 31st. I hope they aren't as delayed as some have reported in the past. This might be a slow season since it is too late to order for Christmas. The AMBASSADOR code got me 10% off. I need to decide on a color scheme within my ability to apply. I guess I'll ask my wife what colors I should spray paint them; that's probably the safest.
Now to wait for the coop parts and start grinding down a screw so I don't have to wait for the custom ones.
Now to wait for the coop parts and start grinding down a screw so I don't have to wait for the custom ones.
Just ordered 3 PeKo 3D print kits from Sculpteo, White polished. How well does wood stain work for coloring? I have some minwax sitting around. I also have some Cetol used on the boat teak of a sailboat we used to own. What do you think?
Somebody tried out minwax wood stain earlier in this thread or the gdna dna bottom feed thread. The pictures looked good. I don't recall his posting any followups. You should search for it and pm the person who did it.
The plastic is porous so maybe wood stain would work on it. I just don't know. You could try it and report back if you can't find out from the person who tried it before.
The plastic is porous so maybe wood stain would work on it. I just don't know. You could try it and report back if you can't find out from the person who tried it before.
Just want to ensure a good result. Don't want to replace the plastics if I can help it. Maybe I should stick with RIT dye. Seems others have had good results with it.
I don't think anyone reported double or triple dying to get darker colors; let the parts dry between treatments then reheat the dye. I am thinking I will try that on my next build.
I think phibbus left his In the dye to cool with good results on the black. My orange and brown gave me no troubles.
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Merlin21 and Happivappi posted up an an inexpensive BF ready Zenith over at Angelcigs. I got a unit to test out the squonk action. There are two pre-drilled holes in the center post that look about .75 to 1 mm and the BF screw adaptorhas a 1.5 mm hole. The two holes in the center post are 1.5mm off the base, so it wont have complete drainage in some cases. So after cleaning one up, which is a must ( I pulled some loose shards of metal out of the post holes and then degreased in dish detergent), I threw Some Mundy Magic Wire in the large post holes and wicked it up.
Squonk action was great! Very little resistance, I think I was getting the full 1.5mm flow potential and suckback was strong. One thing to do if your holes are raised of the atty base is to bed down the base up to the hole with wick material. While you will have more than usual amount of juice/wick material, you will also minimize any leak potential after squonking.
Vape action is nice. More airy than I like due to the larger chamber, but taste is good. The atty is 22mm, so it fits to the edges of Peko, but it looks a bit oversized relative to the small size of Peko. But I really have to say that for under $14 shipped to your door, its hard to beat for an easily obtainable BF ready atty. So I would put this one in the win column if you like this type of vape. Atty size is also a personal preference on look too.
got a link?
*edit*
This one?
Nice even better deal than we got 
.... I really like the atty, I have it set up with a single parallel build at 0.6 and the airflow closed up for minimal air flow and the flavor is really good. Don't have the Peko parts to check the BF option but Gdeal said he liked the squonk action.
With that said I have been thinking of getting a screw and modifying it until my custom screws arrive (which will be a while) so I can get the Peko up and running... I have access to a drill press to open a fresh hole... Will these do? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...Pack-801511/204282620#certona_recommendations
Or if someone has a custom one laying around and wouldn't mind sending it to me on my expense, I could send him one when I get mine in, It's the only piece to the puzzle I will be missing
.... I really like the atty, I have it set up with a single parallel build at 0.6 and the airflow closed up for minimal air flow and the flavor is really good. Don't have the Peko parts to check the BF option but Gdeal said he liked the squonk action.With that said I have been thinking of getting a screw and modifying it until my custom screws arrive (which will be a while) so I can get the Peko up and running... I have access to a drill press to open a fresh hole... Will these do? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...Pack-801511/204282620#certona_recommendations
Or if someone has a custom one laying around and wouldn't mind sending it to me on my expense, I could send him one when I get mine in, It's the only piece to the puzzle I will be missing
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Yep, I didalthough I'm not sure if the cooling in the dye helped it to take or not. I still think the main thing is heat while dyeing. Junquedujour had some trouble with the black dye in the crockpot at near boiling, I think, but then reported getting the parts black after putting them back in the pot for a few hours.
I realized I still haven't posted a pic of my "finished" build. As said previously, I did several coats of Krylon #1311 (four, I think, with two applications each coat) and wet sanded between them. As I had said, I wound up biting too deep with the sandpaper and hit the dye in a couple spots, which accounts for the blue streak along the top edge near the button...
That's been knocking around in my pocket over almost a week of continuous use now, so it's starting to show a bit of scuffing, as well. I rubbed on some microcrystalline wax to give it some extra protection, and it seems to be holding up pretty well. Here are the internals, if interested...
No real problems to report yer. Occasionally the battery will wobble a little when firing, and I'll get a slight misfire until I press harder, but no biggie.
Hmmmm.... Having a heck of a time getting the 510 FD connector through the top cap and internal.... Definitely can't hand thread it and screwdriver feels like it will break the pieces... Time to bust out the sandpaper.
Open the hole in the cap pieces so that the FD 510 almost slides in (minimal threading action). That keeper nut should be the force holding the top cap tight to the internal frame. Paint or printed plastic in the recess can keep the top plate from sitting flush, scrape it out for a clean flush fit when tightened into place. These fitting steps are actually best when done prior to paint or sealing.
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