Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

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Aal_

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I had the hard spring in a high button, worked just fine. Magnets in a low button were perfect, too. I suspect the high button would be better with double magnets, I know Mr. xtreme101 went that way and it was perfect for him.
I have one magnet in the high button. It is loose as I said. Do you think the soft spring in the high button will be loose too? I don't want the hard spring. It seems too hard.
 

Kataphraktos

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I have one magnet in the high button. It is loose as I said. Do you think the soft spring in the high button will be loose too? I don't want the hard spring. It seems too hard.

I think the soft spring is similar to two pairs of magnets, so it should provide a bit more resistance than your single pair of magnets.
 

RGLP4Lyfe

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I have one magnet in the high button. It is loose as I said. Do you think the soft spring in the high button will be loose too? I don't want the hard spring. It seems too hard.
Honestly, in my first peko, i glued the 4mm but into the button and not long after I threw the magnet inside the button as I was eager to throw it together. Long story short the magnet got glued in along side the 4mm nut.. AND to boot, the other magnet I was gonna use for the bottom cracked! So... I left the glued magnet in and just stuck the soft spring under it. It has worked great and provided the button to be a little stiffer. Which I like. So my second Peko I didn't bother trying magnets in the button, i just used the spring and it still presses nice, but I like the first one better (the one I messed up)

And dmarble, yeah the day after I got my first Peko I soldered 16g wire in place of the lugs/ bolts, and I love it. So I did the same to my 2nd mod.

And actually, this is for Gdeal, once I get my photobucket to actually work and give me the URL code I want to show you a picture, i soldered a solid copper rod in place of my brass threaded rod. Its AWESOME! Not much notice when vaping, but it definitely upped the performance. And looks clean and was done in 5 mins. I seen you got copper rod too, Gdeal. Get that soldered in!

-Mark
 

gdeal

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rudedog

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got my kits in and the threaded rod looks like it needs a lil haircut.dont have any stupid glue so kinda debating on chewing gum....prolly not huh?but yeah the threaded rod is long and in the pics I can see where that one had been cut down with sidecuts er something.cant wait but im gonna have to!dangit!paint smaint thatll come later,gotta hit this thing!!
 

RGLP4Lyfe

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I like the light spring better than the magnets. The spring is plug and play and much easier to set up. I have my throw set at <.5 mm so I dont really get the increasing resistance effect from the magnet as they get closer. I actually like the greater resistance to eliminate accidental misfires especially with the lower button which is a bit more difficult to adjust. I basically set it one and done. (I dont use the lock out feature) But its a personal choice. I used to be a button masher on a Reo so for me the uber light touch isnt as much of a factor.

RGLP....just attach a photo directly, if you dont have your account set up. And what diameter rod are you using?
My tapatalk hasn't ever let me attach a picture. My phone is junk too. But I have an account with photobucket and it was working a week ago. Now everything I click to get the URL it just says "couldn't retrieve, try again" and it doesn't work. Stupid.

But the rod was right under 2mm.. I ripped it out of some old cables to wire houses. It slid right into the top lug and into the battery terminal. Soldered perfect. Love it.

-Mark
 

RGLP4Lyfe

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got my kits in and the threaded rod looks like it needs a lil haircut.dont have any stupid glue so kinda debating on chewing gum....prolly not huh?but yeah the threaded rod is long and in the pics I can see where that one had been cut down with sidecuts er something.cant wait but im gonna have to!dangit!paint smaint thatll come later,gotta hit this thing!!
No gum Rick!!!! And yes the brass rods come a little too long. When you snip with a pair of pliers, remember to have it in the peko, thru the lug and battery terminal, then screw on your 4 bolts BEFORE you cut the rod. This well help with not tinkering around with the threads getting a bolt to thread back on. And NO GUM! :) super glue at Wal-Mart is 3 small tubes for 97 cents!

-Mark
 

rudedog

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really gum is a bad thing for peko mods....ima write that lil gem down.it worked on my panhead.with the destruction page im using for my guide im at the point were im getting the button ready to put the nut in there and surge forward!!

addit:id never use gum for building...well never say never!unless I was brokedown on the side of the road on my scoot...lol.then all nevers are off!


No gum Rick!!!! And yes the brass rods come a little too long. When you snip with a pair of pliers, remember to have it in the peko, thru the lug and battery terminal, then screw on your 4 bolts BEFORE you cut the rod. This well help with not tinkering around with the threads getting a bolt to thread back on. And NO GUM! :) super glue at Wal-Mart is 3 small tubes for 97 cents!

-Mark
 
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rudedog

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anyone try just putting the nut in the cap and putting the runny superglue around the nut but not in it?afraid if I put SG in the nut it will crawlup the threads and ill be screwed then.couldnt find any gel superglue at home and didn't feel like goin out in the weather to get some.but if I have to I guess i will go to the store.
 

RGLP4Lyfe

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anyone try just putting the nut in the cap and putting the runny superglue around the nut but not in it?afraid if I put SG in the nut it will crawlup the threads and ill be screwed then.couldnt find any gel superglue at home and didn't feel like goin out in the weather to get some.but if I have to I guess i will go to the store.
I put a tiny drop of regular "runny" super glue in the cutout of the button, then held the 4mm nut with needlenose and pushed it in. Its hard to get in but you gotta get it straight. After you get it in as good as you can with the pliers I take the button and place it on a table with flat hard surface and press down with my palm really hard, top side up, this well set the nut fully into the seating and also make it relatively straight. If it's not almost perfectly straight you won't be able to get your button screwed into the mod and or adjust the throw/ lock it.
Hope these tips help! I'm here to help you and get you loving your Peko!

-Mark
 

ronnbert

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anyone try just putting the nut in the cap and putting the runny superglue around the nut but not in it?afraid if I put SG in the nut it will crawlup the threads and ill be screwed then.couldnt find any gel superglue at home and didn't feel like goin out in the weather to get some.but if I have to I guess i will go to the store.
I think I got the gel superglue on my threads. Had to break it loose at one point, and I can only adjust throw by using a screwdriver, but I haven't felt the need to fix it for now.
 

rudedog

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all the tips are helping for sure.main thing is to remember to flippin breathe!!!lol.i used thedelrin threaded piece to put in the nut and pushed down as hard as I dared,didnt get any SG in the bottom of the button.if it comes apart at the rails ill definitely have to get some gel SG.i wasn't sure how hard I could push down on the button.but next mod will be easier already.im not paintin now I just wanna get some building experience.too much ocd for me...lol.thanks for all the great tips and bubblegum warnings!whew!!

ronnbert:thats why I didn't wanna try the runny stuf in the cap/nut.cant wait to fire mine up...dang this is takin me forever.just bein overly cautious and reading takes lotsa time too.but gotta keep up with the threads I watch.




I put a tiny drop of regular "runny" super glue in the cutout of the button, then held the 4mm nut with needlenose and pushed it in. Its hard to get in but you gotta get it straight. After you get it in as good as you can with the pliers I take the button and place it on a table with flat hard surface and press down with my palm really hard, top side up, this well set the nut fully into the seating and also make it relatively straight. If it's not almost perfectly straight you won't be able to get your button screwed into the mod and or adjust the throw/ lock it.
Hope these tips help! I'm here to help you and get you loving your Peko!

-Mark
 
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RGLP4Lyfe

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Yeah I'd think it would easier to get the gel glue to come up on the threads. The thin stuff doesn't seem to cover the threads. Granted I used a tiny tiny dab on both mods but it's a strong enough hold that turn and lock/ adjust my mods 30 times a day and that tiny dab has not broken loose.
I wish I could get photobucket to work I did some other mods to my pekos. I replaced the threaded brass rods and nuts with solid copper rod and soldered to the 510 lug and battery terminal. They hit like freakin beasts! Not that they didn't before. But now their just plain awesome and better conductivity also! I'll get a picture soon enough.

-Mark
 

rudedog

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dangit...I have a space where the buttonside between the big lug and where the 510 screws through both piecesthieres a spce between the lug and theframe?I think its called.isnt the lug supposed to be flush so when we put the brass nut on there everything tightens down....or no.ive a hitch in my giddyup!!!yikes!!lol.
 

RGLP4Lyfe

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Not clear exactly what your asking.. but when you push the 510 in you tighten it with the big 510 brass nut. I stick a quarter on the top of the 510 in the two provided slots to hold that still and then take a skinny strong screwdriver and tighten the brass 510 nut. The lug should tighten against the frame above the brass 510 nut. It may look loose but it should all tighten up.. if that's not what ya mean maybe post a pic if you can't figure it out? Are you going step by step from Gdeal's build doc?

-Mark
 
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