Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

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rudedog

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While screwing down the 510, make sure the large solder lug stays flush with the surface of the Internal Frame as shown in the picture below:



yeah if you look at the pic with the lug and the 510 commin through....I have a space between the lug and the frame....crap





Not clear exactly what your asking.. but when you push the 510 in you tighten it with the big 510 brass nut. I stick a quarter on the top of the 510 in the two provided slots to hold that still and then take a skinny strong screwdriver and tighten the brass 510 nut. The lug should tighten against the frame above the brass 510 nut. It may look loose but it should all tighten up.. if that's not what ya mean maybe post a pic if you can't figure it out? Are you going step by step from Gdeal's build doc?

-Mark
 

HappiVappi

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Has anyone tried that Bondic stuff?

Yes, I repaired the broken housing of an USB cable. About 30% of the housing was missing. Since the ASUS Transformer USB cable is a funky non standard I decided to try Bondic instead hunting for an replacement cable. The trick with this stuff is to work in really thin layers and curing it with UV light in between. I was able to form the missing piece and I have to say, I am impressed. Holds up very well. Thing is though, if you cannot get any UV light to the spot, like a nut sitting in a PEKO button this will most likely not work.

HTH.

Cheers.
 

rudedog

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well took it back apart and got it now.had it bass akwards for sure,the 1mm makes a buncha diff on it going together and goin together right...duh really simple screw up,thanks for the help here.im what happens when you brain is the egg in a frying pan 30yrs ago!hah hah.just saying no didn't work.for everyone in the 80's




hey drmarbel that's where I have my gap,when I put the brass 510 nut on it puts it in a bind...ya know what im sayin.wish I could take pics

My lugs are held against the top cap by the 510 nut.
 
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gdeal

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Rmervin

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pencils2.jpg


The coloration for the Peko body is Minwax tint base and stain: white water based tint base over the orange print, followed mostly by a blonde toned oil based wood finish stain and a darker stain to mimic shadow. There are probably three coats of sprayed semi gloss polycrylic on the body not including a horizontal brush coat. I applied the tint in a light coverage to allow the orange print to show through and after the first blonde stain I tried adding adding and blending horizontal pencil lines: yellow, browns, red and black. I had to rub out some of the black with art gum and there was a couple bouts of sanding with some bubbling and running too. As an art school dropout my take is to capitalize on the imperfections and since a Peko is plastic I had to put a lot of them there myself.

Is that what you wanted gdeal?
 
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Aal_

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pencils2.jpg


The coloration for the Peko body is Minwax tint base and stain: white water based tint base over the orange print, followed mostly by a blonde toned oil based wood finish stain and a darker stain to mimic shadow. There are probably three coats of sprayed semi gloss polycrylic on the body not including a horizontal brush coat. I applied the tint in a light coverage to allow the orange print to show through and after the first blonde stain I tried adding adding and blending horizontal pencil lines: yellow, browns, red and black. I had to rub out some of the black with art gum and there was a couple bouts of sanding with some bubbling and running too. As an art school dropout my take is to capitalize on the imperfections and since a Peko is plastic I had to put a lot of them there myself.

Is that what you wanted gdeal?
Hey mervin. Question. As I understand wood stain goes inside the wood to color it and leaves the grain. How does wood stain works on plastic. Do the pigment stay on top and work fine?
 

gdeal

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rudedog

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well dangit I cant find my 6/32 tap and even if I did it would be greasy dirty and that prolly wouldn't be good for vaping,i can smell the gritty stench already when the atty would heat up....not gonna even try that!.so off to the autopart store.may see if they have a can of bedliner rubber stuff to do my first peko in.the wood look was nice on a buncha stuff ive seen done.since I have time on my hands at the moment I have to lookup more stuff to do the woodlook with.has anyone tried the bedliner stuff on a peko that visits this site?im off!!like a fart in da wind!!LMAO!!funny saying from shawshank redemption....lol
 

Rmervin

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Hey mervin. Question. As I understand wood stain goes inside the wood to color it and leaves the grain. How does wood stain works on plastic. Do the pigment stay on top and work fine?

I think the answer is "if you over stain then you get bleed". The prints are porous, so you can saturate the plastic. I had this on my first mod. But, I also think I'm countering the bleed by starting with the white base tint. The stain coats are pretty light, I put them on with art brushes and there was drying time while I was working. Minwax says stain and wipe the excess so I tried that too. If i Look inside the body there is zero pigment bleed. So I got lucky.
 

RGLP4Lyfe

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well dangit I cant find my 6/32 tap and even if I did it would be greasy dirty and that prolly wouldn't be good for vaping,i can smell the gritty stench already when the atty would heat up....not gonna even try that!.so off to the autopart store.may see if they have a can of bedliner rubber stuff to do my first peko in.the wood look was nice on a buncha stuff ive seen done.since I have time on my hands at the moment I have to lookup more stuff to do the woodlook with.has anyone tried the bedliner stuff on a peko that visits this site?im off!!like a fart in da wind!!LMAO!!funny saying from shawshank redemption....lol
You know you don't have to thread the delrin right? You can just drill a hole so the vented screw screws in. I started small and worked my way up and kept checking with the vented screw until it snuggly screwed into the delrin. I made mine tight enough that it doesn't thread in by hand. I need a screwdriver to drive it in. Works perfect. On my second Peko I wasn't so quick to put it together, so I did tap that 2nd mods delrin. But it's definitely not needed. The brass nut that goes onto the vented screw works just fine for atty adjustment!!
And as for rubber bedliner, never used it on my peko, but I did with my trucks and it's thick stuff. I'd be afraid it would be too thick and make the mod bulky. Remember the Peko is made of nylon and very porous! If you try the bedliner I'd go very light at first and see how it is... hopefully it doesn't mess your print up! Hope you are vaping that beauty soon, keep me posted. Good luck!

-Mark
 

RGLP4Lyfe

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^ an alternative to that might be Plastidip, but I'm not sure of its heat tolerances.
Good idea, think about it, the Peko shell itself doesn't get all that hot... so I would think plastidip would be fine! And probably look much better than that thick uneven bedliner. Think about some plastidip Rick! If you haven't already sprayed your mod with bedliner...

-Mark
 

rudedog

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haven't done anything yet.just now got home and am starting to tap the delrin.if I screw the delrin up I have 3 of the FDV 510 G uses for the peko.s.just came across the bag of em lasnite so good score for me.i thought I would never use them!HAH I showed me didn't I !!lol.you get plastidip uhhhh where....walmart?or autoparts store?just had go buy a 400.00 fuel pump for my truck...wow I love my truck and glad I don't have to drop 400ert on her every few nights!yikes!

didn't know the no tapping part about the delrin,but since I have the 2$ tap from napa ima use it....what the hay!



Good idea, think about it, the Peko shell itself doesn't get all that hot... so I would think plastidip would be fine! And probably look much better than that thick uneven bedliner. Think about some plastidip Rick! If you haven't already sprayed your mod with bedliner...

-Mark
 
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