Prodigy V2 and Protege Troubleshooting Guide (With Pictures)

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rfw2003

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rfw2003, I never heard of a natural resistor unless you mean semiconductor but that is man-made. I do not want to get into subject right now. Natural or not it should be measurable with a good digital MM. Dirt has resistance, dirty switch contacts has resistance, etc. Thanks.
Nico

No was not trying to make it an argument just was saying there was no typical resistor in the unit soldered in. Yes you can measure the resistance with a decent meter I believe it's just a few ohms total through the switch on the V2. While I'm not totally sure as to what the contact disc in on the switch my guess would be that it's a sintered ceramic metal to produce the resistance as it's not silicone based as semiconductors are.

R.F.
 

Nicotinologist

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Jan 14, 2010
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I am getting my V2, hopefully next week. I don't know why I ordered one. I guess I was not aware of these multitude of issues. I know those are minor problems, though maybe too much for some. About the resistive disc, that may be part of the problem, it will cause some arcing during closing and opening the circuit. I appreciate your reply, rfw2003.

Nico
 
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JDSupreme

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Dec 20, 2009
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Also, every now and then after I take a drag (like 1-2 sec after I release the button) I hear kind of a "pop" or "crack" noise. This may be the spring inside the switch. I'm on my last atty :( got some more coming. Im just getting a feeling something is not right. This thing just looks built too well to be acting goofy. Sure wish someone at PS would get back to me..........
 

Drayvyn

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Dec 19, 2009
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Well for me I have 3 510 attys and all are fine..no issues on the burning them up even with the wiggle room I have. I tighten as said...just snug and maybe a touch more =) It hasnt affected performance at all lol. This thing smokes like a forest fire as far as I am concerned =p I am sorry to hear others are having issues

I know mine is from the first batch and honestly for a first run unit...its badass! I would still totally say get one. I am sure Steve and PS will take care of any lil bugs and glitches that show up. He and PS seem very straight and keep a high profile here from all I have seen =) This is one of the reasons I chose this as my first mod.
 

doots

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I have both a Prodigy and a Protege and this is the first time actually reading the this thread.

It say "We recommend using 801 or 501". I have a 901 for both units. May I ask why and what is the difference between the 801 and 501 vs the 901 besides the thread pattern?

The 510 and 801 seem to hold up better at 5v rather than the 901.
Doesnt mean you cant use 901s. they work fine from what i can tell..
 

buGG

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510 is what you want...I used to interchange the parts myself, but then went with an all 510 arrangement for better vaping. I haven't tried the Blu atty on a 510 Protege adapter though, but in theory it should work...you'll just 401 carts (unless you stick with the Blu foil thingamajigs).

buGG
 
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Nicotinologist

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Jan 14, 2010
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Hello Steve, inspite of several problems most V2 users are experiencing I still ordered a copy of your most popular e cig mod, the V2. I think it is the best looking one on the market. When I received mine last saturday, I went ahead recharged a pair of batteries. I then disassemble the unit to investigate the reported problem areas. These are the things that I feel will solve some if not all the problems: Switch: The two stationary posts should have silver contacts similar to the ones commonly used on quality relay contacts. The disc should be of silver alloy also, not the one you are using now. The current disc looks like a fiberglass board with copper foil. Not durable enough, it can break and out the copper trace. Battery adaptors: The reason it is causing a dead short on some 801s. Joye 302, etc. is due to the brass barrel's improper ID. Too small to clear the corresponding atomizer inner pole. Get some battery/atomizer adapters from China and do some measurements in the critical areas. Adapter center pin is pressed too tightly in the adapter. It looks good but does not work. The pin should be free to float to and pro. Why? If the pin is free to float during atomizer installation the atomizer inner pole will push the pin inward untill it contacts the switch's output terminal pin thereby everything are equal in tightness, from the switch, ato/adapter and atomizer. Resistor: The V2 is a High Voltage E cigs, as advertised. I am not sure if it is claimed to run at 5 volts. I have been questioning this issue since I got attracted to the V2. I did not see any resistor on the Prodigy/Protege switch disassmbly procedure pictures. I posted a reply regarding the resistor and one member said it is incorporated in the switch's disc itself. How strange, I never heard of such a resistor. I didn't detect any resistor in the circuit when I ohmed it. That explains for burnt out atomizers. I went ahead and fixed the 801 adapter. I drove the inner pin out. Bored out the barrel atomizer end from 1/4th of an inch to 5/16th of an inch close to 1/8 of an inch deep. I also loosened the pin fit so that it can slide in and out more freely. I went ahead and made a copper disc out of a copper washer. I will ask a machinist friend of mine to make me pair of copper or silver contact posts. My V2 works real fine now. I could now assemble the unit as any average user would assemble it. I could now screw on the Joye 302 with the same feel as you would get using the production pencil battery. Since this a 6 volt unit I pulse the switch 2x a second instead of making a steady push to prevent overloading the atomizer. I believe the resistor should be implemented to the unit. The best place to install the resistor would be in the battery cap. Make it an optional part of the kit, 6+ volt no resistor, 5 volt, 4 volt with resistors of different values. It will require lengthening the bottom cap, perhaps 0.5". Thanks, Steve. I still love my V2. Please let me know what you think. But the way, how about a ribbed rubberized grip? You could E-mail me in regard to this or post it.
Nico. rickseneris@msn.com
 
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Acesfool

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Apr 10, 2009
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Also, every now and then after I take a drag (like 1-2 sec after I release the button) I hear kind of a "pop" or "crack" noise. This may be the spring inside the switch. I'm on my last atty :( got some more coming. Im just getting a feeling something is not right. This thing just looks built too well to be acting goofy. Sure wish someone at PS would get back to me..........


I'm waiting to hear back as well. I got one reply when I first reported my problems to PS and it was just asking me something about the atty. Now it's been a week with this thing not working and I don't know whether I should send it back or what.
 

Nicotinologist

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Jan 14, 2010
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Long Beach, California
Drayvyn, how many turns does it take for your particular atomizer to get tight? If it tightens up in less than one and a half turns the ato will wiggle. I suspect the problem is on your adapter center post is set too high. You may have to drive the center pin lower with a drift punch (adapter removed from the unit) maybe about 1 to 1.5 mm. Your atomizers maybe OK. Always do a resistance and voltage check before condemning anything. Seems like it is now a must to have a MM in every mod users tool kit, isn't it?
 
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Nicotinologist

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Jan 14, 2010
135
20
Long Beach, California
Hay guys, so far so good for me. I've blown out two 902's since I received my V2 in less than three days. I guess I was pushing it too hard to find out how far I can abuse them. I learned how to take care of my atomizers now, I hope. What I do is kinda pulse the switch off and on instead of a steady push. With a little bit of practice I learned how to get the vapor I needed on each type atomizer I have. The lower the atomizer resistance the more likely it will burn out on V2. The 510s I have have the lowest resistance at 2.2 ohms. I am very very carefull when I use it on my V2. They are best to be used at 3.7 volts for peace of mind. The rest of the atomizers I have are within 3.0 to 3.2 ohms. Even my KR808D1 cartomizers have an average reading of 3.1 ohms. I have not blown one yet on my V2.
Is it possible that the weldment/soldering itself is the first to give up and not the filament itself? I hope they use a high melting point solder or fusing during the manufacturing. If someone out there knows the answer to this question please let me know. I have not yet opened up one of my 902s to find out.
Nico
 

tunabubblegum

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Dec 29, 2009
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I think I have finally found the perfect atty that rally tames this beast
down and gives me nice smooth (not hot) vapor;

The 801 high voltage atty:

High Voltage 801 Atomizers

As you can see, the mouth piece is simply that, a mouth piece.
There is no wicking for juice, it is dripping only.
The draw is a little harder then a normal 801 or BE112 but I do not get
the HOT, burn the thoat near the last puff that I do with any other atty
I have tried.
Well, it still gets a little hot when it's running dry, but it does not burn the juice up as fast.
And, like all 801/112 attys, they are the highest cappacity and quality.

I can drip 10 drops w/o worry.
I stuff a small wad of blue foam in the mouthpiece to help keep the juice
inside the atty instead of my mouth. It helps, just need to keep the whole thing standing up and not lay it down.

Try one, I think you will be happy :)

Also, I have still not solved the button problem.
I have had it apart to tweek and clean so many times, it's not funny!!

I wish Prodigy would fix this damn button and send them to all owners
as a retro-fit fix. This is the only real problem I have w/ this PV and it's what keeps me from recommending it to buyers.
 
I think I have finally found the perfect atty that rally tames this beast
down and gives me nice smooth (not hot) vapor;

The 801 high voltage atty:

High Voltage 801 Atomizers

As you can see, the mouth piece is simply that, a mouth piece.
There is no wicking for juice, it is dripping only.
The draw is a little harder then a normal 801 or BE112 but I do not get
the HOT, burn the thoat near the last puff that I do with any other atty
I have tried.
Well, it still gets a little hot when it's running dry, but it does not burn the juice up as fast.
And, like all 801/112 attys, they are the highest cappacity and quality.

I can drip 10 drops w/o worry.
I stuff a small wad of blue foam in the mouthpiece to help keep the juice
inside the atty instead of my mouth. It helps, just need to keep the whole thing standing up and not lay it down.

Try one, I think you will be happy :)

Also, I have still not solved the button problem.
I have had it apart to tweek and clean so many times, it's not funny!!

I wish Prodigy would fix this damn button and send them to all owners
as a retro-fit fix. This is the only real problem I have w/ this PV and it's what keeps me from recommending it to buyers.

These high volt atomizers are a much simpler alternative than having to change the batteries in 2 battery equipped mods of any kind.;)

Also Steve can now call the prodigy a dual volt PV. I got a couple HV 901's to use with my Prodigy with the hope s of it lasting longer than standard ones. I experienced the cooler vapor but I personally like the warmer vapor cause it seems to bring much more flavor out which is why I bought a high volt mod in the 1st place.
 
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