Protank Cotton Rebuild, the way I do it

[horton]

Glad I could help you out, BK..... Good luck!!

 

[brookj1986]

Haven't received it yet. 1.8 mm should fit without messing with the heads from my understanding. Haven't yet messed with xc-132. Only cotton atty this point. Will eventually invest in that, but haven't yet.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.

Have you used 1.8mm with xc-132 in any Protanks successfully? I want the 1.788 size so that I don't have to do any filing or altering of the heads.

I tested the 1.8mm drill bit. Fits perfectly without any filing. That said, 0.012 mm is such a slight difference, shouldn't really matter.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.

 

[N00dl3s]

Just finished rewicking a burnt evod coil.. Dry fired it after pulling out the burnt wicking, tightened up the coils a bit, and dry fired again to check for hot spots.. None, (standard spit coil) then rewicked with cotton. OMG!! LOL.. Vapor productions unbelievable, and the taste.. wow.. I'll get around to making coils next when my VV/VW mods get here.

One question though. The stock coil is soldered onto the legs, and the legs are soldered to the center pin and outer case. Just rip the original legs out?? No filing with jewelers files needed to smooth things up at all???

 

[f1vefour]

Nothing is soldered.

 

[N00dl3s]

I know the replacement isnt, but the original coil in the cap is on mine.. looked at it through a loupe to be sure i wasnt seeing things.

 

[BK_Malik]

I tested the 1.8mm drill bit. Fits perfectly without any filing. That said, 0.012 mm is such a slight difference, shouldn't really matter.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.

Thanks brook, I ordered a 1.788 #50 just to sure.

 

[brookj1986]

Thanks brook, I ordered a 1.788 #50 just to sure.

I'll probably do the same. That 30 Piece is nice, but none were labeled and there were so many that are fractionally different it is a real PITA to figure out what is what... Don't own calipers to figure it out... especially micro calipers.

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[K_Tech]

I'll probably do the same. That 30 Piece is nice, but none were labeled and there were so many that are fractionally different it is a real PITA to figure out what is what... Don't own calipers to figure it out... especially micro calipers.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.

If you have a Lowe's, Home Depot, or a Tractor Supply nearby, they all sell drill bits individually.

 

[brookj1986]

If you have a Lowe's, Home Depot, or a Tractor Supply nearby, they all sell drill bits individually.

Yeah. I have more drill bits right now than I know what to do with. Already own that 30 Piece set but none of them are labeled. No biggie. I'm covered on bits for at least 6 months.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.

 

[fogging_katrider]

Just finished rewicking a burnt evod coil.. Dry fired it after pulling out the burnt wicking, tightened up the coils a bit, and dry fired again to check for hot spots.. None, (standard spit coil) then rewicked with cotton. OMG!! LOL.. Vapor productions unbelievable, and the taste.. wow.. I'll get around to making coils next when my VV/VW mods get here.

One question though. The stock coil is soldered onto the legs, and the legs are soldered to the center pin and outer case. Just rip the original legs out?? No filing with jewelers files needed to smooth things up at all???

No, the legs are not welded (or soldered) to the base or the center pin. What you are seeing in the stock coils, is a wire weld between the coils resistance wire (the coil portion) and the low resistance wire "leg" portions on either side of the coil.

hth

 

[Cloud Junky]

I did a kick @55 coil on one with some .28ga and it was in the ball park of .8ohms, it lasted for a day I thought I can go back to a protank because "I don't drip and drive", after getting tased or tazed on my tougue from the drip tip I just went with the Russian 91%.

(I melted through the insulator after about 20 hits) they were a good 20 I must say

 

[MacTechVpr]

Anyone have any pictures of a rebuilt PTII head?

Sure here ya go…

Good luck.

 

[brookj1986]

Here's what I got so far for my rebuilt pt2/pt2 mini with 30 gauge on 1.8mm drill bit:

Everything all laid out.

You'll see 2 long legs.

Feed both legs thru the center hole

I took the shorter lead and pulled it tight to maintain tension and lightly wrapped it around the bit.

Take the other lead and put it thru the grommet.

Then I pull for tension and lightly wrap on the other side of the bit. Then I slide the metal post in.

Trim the leads either with a cuticle trimmer or from pull and twist method (haven't mastered this method).

Put the base in the pt2 mini and test.

Will do some dry fires to push the coil together with tweezers as needed. Then pull some cotton thru, drip a little on the cotton and attach chimney and fill tank.

Pretty basic run down.


Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.

 

[MacTechVpr]

I did a kick @55 coil on one with some .28ga and it was in the ball park of .8ohms, it lasted for a day I thought I can go back to a protank because "I don't drip and drive", after getting tased or tazed on my tougue from the drip tip I just went with the Russian 91%.

(I melted through the insulator after about 20 hits) they were a good 20 I must say

Hey CJ you can def do a lowΩ on a PT on a slightly higher diameter. It's difficult to locate at the bottom of the slot which helps keep it even. But you can use a needle or very thin screwdriver through hollow-core like Eko or Nextel to do this. AWG 28-29 are good for this as more rigid, especially if you tension wind.

Some examples…

29AWG, 8/7 1/16-1.58mm i.d., t.m.c. = 1.40Ω √
28AWG, 12/11, 1/16-1.58mm i.d., m.c. = 1.3Ω #241 vdaedalus
28AWG, 10/9, 2mm i.d., m.c.= 1.62Ω
28AWG, 9/8, 2mm i.d., m.c.= 1.49Ω
28AWG, 8/7 2mm i.d., m.c.= 1.3Ω

Problem is if you drop much below 1.4Ω it won't work on a variable like the VAMO, Sig or DNA's (as Rip Tripper's famously demonstrates). And lemme tell ya 1.4@ with power behind it kicks!

So yeah you can make some weather on a KPT. Just build it tight and tensioned so you don't short (and burn that grommet). Watch for hangers at the grommet on thick wire. It'll mess with your res.

Good luck.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Here's what I got so far for my rebuilt pt2/pt2 mini with 30 gauge on 1.8mm drill bit...Pretty basic run down.

Great pic's brook. Thanks very much. Wish there were more.

Listen up people…the internet is a visual medium.

All illustrations help the explanations posted here; and, our user accounts and hard metrics are extremely helpful in understanding things like Rip Tripper's and other youtube, etc. videos that don't explain the "why" of things.

The two go hand in hand.

Just sayin'.

Thanks for the memories.

Good luck.



p.s. Extremely hard to keep a high wind count from shorting. How many turns actually? So I can try and validate brook. Cotton's in the way.

 

[f1vefour]

Problem is if you drop much below 1.4Ω it won't work on a variable like the VAMO, Sig or DNA's (as Rip Tripper's famously demonstrates). And lemme tell ya 1.4@ with power behind it kicks!

So yeah you can make some weather on a KPT. Just build it tight and tensioned so you don't short (and burn that grommet). Watch for hangers at the grommet on thick wire. It'll mess with your res.

Good luck.

VAMO fires down to 1.2 ohms, with these sx2xx devices coming out (seVen 22, Sigelei 20-W) firing to 0.5 ohms and the DNA20/30 clones firing down to 0.3 ohms this will be less of an issue.

 

[MacTechVpr]

VAMO fires down to 1.2 ohms, with these sx2xx devices coming out (seVen 22, Sigelei 20-W) firing to 0.5 ohms and the DNA20/30 clones firing down to 0.3 ohms this will be less of an issue.

Man, I get all kinds of results on lowΩ compatibility from the slew of variables I have. And tensioned coils utterly fool the circuits on many of them. I know, I've just spent two days in a test intensive of KPT winds with assistants using variables for validation, specifically the VAMO. Another great is the eVic (which I love for it's .1Ω increment) which consistently gives a high side reading on new unfired (non-shorting) micro tensioned builds. You can sit there reinstall the base and watch it creep down a tenth to .1/over your unfired set target. Eventually when you oxidize it gets there. It's quite a challenge and a major objective to observe the phenomena in this intensive test sequence.

Good timing with your remarks.

Good luck.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Deleted duplicate

 

[MacTechVpr]

So I spent the last month or so experimenting with protank coils, thanks in large part to this thread -- and I would be remiss if I failed to mention the infectious enthusiasm of Frédéric Bastiat MacTechVpr, whose posts on this and other subjects I've long admired.

At first, I had nothing but problems with the Protank (2); my evod worked quite well, but not noticeably better than other clearomizers. Then I switched from silica to organic cotton with similar results for the Protank and significantly better results for the evod. Then I ordered some aero-tank base pieces, along with a mini-Protank (2). When those items arrived, I thought, "In for a penny, in for a pound," and tried boiling my organic cotton in distilled water.*

Holy crap. Vape heaven, on all three devices, except now the eVod is by far the worst of the three. Leaving aside some minor complaints about the quality of the threads on the mini-Protank, I feel that the mini is the best self-contained device for rebuilding. The regular Protank (2), at least in my experience, is endlessly fiddly, endlessly capricious, with the stock base.

Anyway, all of this is a long way of saying, thanks to all who've posted here!

(* - I make no claims about the health benefits of boiling cotton before using it. I tried boiling simply to see if it would improve taste. I also don't want to sound as if the wick was the major determining factor; I also got better at coiling, and more importantly, better at positioning coils within the tiny 'cup' area of the protank head, during my adventures. Cotton certainly seems a lot easier to work with though, if nothing else.)

Just ran across your post (very early) this morning and as always flattered and grateful for your acknowledgement. I think you understand at least as well as most that we're here to try to help individuals get over and the community at large. I thank you for your remarks and wish you the best in this awesome vaping adventure we've begun.

Infectious it is!

Vape on and good luck.

 

[MacTechVpr]

VAMO fires down to 1.2 ohms, with these sx2xx devices coming out (seVen 22, Sigelei 20-W) firing to 0.5 ohms and the DNA20/30 clones firing down to 0.3 ohms this will be less of an issue.

Man, I get all kinds of results on lowΩ compatibility from the slew of variables I have. And tensioned coils utterly fool the circuits on many of them. I know, I've just spent two days in a test intensive of KPT winds with assistants using variables for validation, specifically the VAMO. Another great is the eVic (which I love for it's .1Ω increment) which consistently gives a high side reading on new unfired (non-shorting) micro tensioned builds. You can sit there reinstall the base and watch it creep down a tenth to .1/over your unfired set target. Eventually when you oxidize it gets there. It's quite a challenge and a major objective to observe the phenomena in this intensive test sequence.

​For the newcomers on this thread…the short version…check your coil assembly parts for obvious defects like threading and pin protrusions. Get an inexpensive needle file and attack burrs and sharp edges on the 510. Careful with assemblies and bases that don't screw together well and grommets that compress too easily. These will ruin your resistance and your vape.

Good morning (double-oh) f1ve. Never did hear back from ya on the above and I was hoping for impressions, speculation...some analysis, as I''m increasingly getting a lot of variability on all devices, old and new, these past few months.

A large part of this I've pointed to on the issue of compressibility of silicone and composite silicone grommets that have presumptively been introduced (for our benefit) to ameliorate our concerns over the "taste" of burny grommets. Never mind that silicone scorches at 550 deg F. As well I've noted how incredibly incongruous it is to incorporate insulated and non-resistance legs alongside archaic hand winds that are doomed to short in the first place. It seems like an electrical twilight zone.

This doesn't exactly induce confidence in this author for the producers of equipment we use daily to ingest our fragile eliquids.

I wanted to add that although the quality of 510 interfaces on Kanger's have always seemed somewhat more consistent than most, it isn't particularly anymore. And I can't be certain a percentage of what we're getting aren't clones. But I'm seeing defects in pins for example (burrs that protrude or out-of-round, etc. and short). Variations in overall coil assembly length, 510 threading and air holes (turns, tolerance, finish). And of course the interaction of the silicone with all this. Yes we're talking about a silly atomizer…but one now almost costing 30$ US.

I mention this in deference to the device makers whose electronics have remained unchanged for some time (including some in my use). My VAMO/s have not read consistently down to 1.2Ω as you mention. It matters mostly on the coil I have installed. At least that is my impression.

I will note surprisingly that one particular clone coil maker makes an outstanding assembly. And in my flurry of testing of late found their grommets to outperform factory supply from Kanger from 9 months back. Consistently getting rock solid reads on a cargo-meter from these and it's indispensable to our safety and a reliable vape. Trying my best here to identify the source of those outstanding clone grommets. Frankly all the parts…the assembly stamping, wonky new Aero base threading, pins as well as the grommets are a prime factor in producing all this resistance uncertainty. And it's starting to really piss me off. This equipment is costing a lot of money. And they want to put themselves in the upmarket clone Kayfun/Aqua tank sector with their prices? Really?

Kanger, Aspire…earn it! Your 510 connections and coils don't make the cut. Sorry.

Any thoughts or observations f1ve (or any of you)? Any leads.

Good luck.