Protank Cotton Rebuild, the way I do it

[DaveP]

If Hobby Lobby has this coil winder in stock (it's shown in their online catalog), I'll be in business tonight making perfect coils.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/coiling-gizmo-deluxe-econo-winder-257741/

 

[brookj1986]

If Hobby Lobby has this coil winder in stock (it's shown in their online catalog), I'll be in business tonight making perfect coils.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/coiling-gizmo-deluxe-econo-winder-257741/

If only it had more width options. Doesn't offer 1.8 mm... actually jumps quite a bit.

Five sizes of crank rods--1.1 thick, 1.5 mm thick, 3.2 mm thick, 4.2 mm thick & 5.2 mm thick. Wonder if they make more rods that can be used to hit the 1.8, 2 and 2.2 mm ranges.

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[DaveP]

If only it had more width options. Doesn't offer 1.8 mm... actually jumps quite a bit.

Five sizes of crank rods--1.1 thick, 1.5 mm thick, 3.2 mm thick, 4.2 mm thick & 5.2 mm thick. Wonder if they make more rods that can be used to hit the 1.8, 2 and 2.2 mm ranges.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.

I bought it while I was out and haven't opened it up yet. Finding a rod the right size could be nothing more than looking around at building supply houses' solid electrical wire or through the clothes hangers in the closet. The goal post and desk mount was more important to me. A shopping trip with a set of digital calipers would probably find just the right material for the missing rods.

 

[brookj1986]

I bought it while I was out and haven't opened it up yet. Finding a rod the right size could be nothing more than looking around at building supply houses' solid electrical wire or through the clothes hangers in the closet. The goal post and desk mount was more important to me. A shopping trip with a set of digital calipers would probably find just the right material for the missing rods.

100% correct. Let us know how it works for you! Very interested in seeing what you have to say about it after use

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[PariahNine]

Something like this wouldn't be too difficult to fabricate with wood or even plexiglass. I see a new project in my very near future.

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[MacTechVpr]

100% correct. Let us know how it works for you! Very interested in seeing what you have to say about it after use.

I got past guessing at what my resistance might end up very early on. I'm a lazy … and don't like to do things twice. And I don't like to settle. First time's the right time. Find the data. Find the mandrel, a hardened one not out-of-round or subject to arching. (On this thread and several places.) Do a <30 second tension wind, like the half-a-dozen I did and half-dozen more abject newb's did for me today in seconds at a high end mod B&M. I just handed them the spool and wire taped to a driver and said wind. And yer done. Perfection. Face palm. You shouldn't have to argue with that. But then there's fiddly.

Secondly, on gizmo's and various sundry devices or solutions using hanger wire…it's not rigid enough. Particularly for thicker gauges, twisted or larger diameters. I haven't taken the time to incorporate them in my research study as exhibits by experimenters posted on this forum consistently evidence arching. And that would not be an efficient coil and prone to performance issues (very much akin to shorting). I don't like to waste time either. I'd just rather it work so I can vape.

Just sayin'.

Plus some of you guys on this thread and http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion.html are already in very short order winding precision tensioned contact micro coils superior to anything I've ever seen Rip do. The proof, frankly, is in the pictures. But I applaud him for generating the enthusiasm. That we need.

Congratulations and don't forget to share.

Good luck.



"The hardest thing to explain is the glaringly evident which everybody has decided not to see." - Ayn Rand

 

[MacTechVpr]

I started with Rip Trippers method. He's awesome and really does help a ton! He's got the hand over hand roll down. I've been trying to combine his methods with the tension micro coil process and really fit all of it to my preferences to see what works best.

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A loose coil end turn such as shown at 5:29 of the above posted RT video exhibiting a distorted pos leg termination (not properly tensioned) will almost certainly go hot (short); and this loose leg is perilously close to the assembly wall such that a minor skewing of the grommet and attendant leg may short to the wall when the 510 connection is tightened.

So although the mechanics of stabilization in this video are essentially correct the execution is what? You tell me.

And you did not get this memo before you got home eager to build it and shorted on this oversized nano.

(Note to self [many moon's ago]: Don't rely on video copies of other people's errant video's.)

But at least the video may have gotten you here. So I thank Rip.

Good luck.

 

[MacTechVpr]

I will say this…even a shorting hand wound micro coil is better than an ordinary hand wind.

And the best vape we got is well, the best vape we got.

Don't mean it'll be the vest vape you'll ever get, or the be-all-end-all.

Good luck.

 

[sahsah]

Seen a lot of questions regarding rebuilding protank/evod/every clone that takes them heads. So i figured I would post up my process and what I have learned so far.

What you will need:
View attachment 248049

Disassemble the head:
View attachment 248050

Wrap the coil on the drill bit:
View attachment 248051

Put Coil in the head:
View attachment 248052

Insert rubber insulator and bottom pin, remember one wire out side the insulator and one through, then insert pin:
View attachment 248053

which part is the insulator on the protank head? That clear ring under the ridge on the cup? Also when you say wires are you referring to the coil legs/leads?

 

[PariahNine]

which part is the insulator on the protank head? That clear ring under the ridge on the cup? Also when you say wires are you referring to the coil legs/leads?

The insulator is the grommet that separates the leads of the coil, which is inserted into the bottom of the coil head.

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[MsAgro]

Thank You for this thread!!!

I just started rewicking my stock coils and I can't believe I didn't look into rebuilding sooner! Simply rewicking alone has made a world of difference in taste. I was originally a hesitant at trying rewicking and rebuilding due to occasional tremor issues, and frankly... it sounded more complicated when my friend gave me verbal instructions. Tossing an Ohm meter and some kanthal wire in my shopping cart tonight to give rebuilding a try.

 

[MsAgro]

Dupe post... sorry

 

[DaveP]

Something like this wouldn't be too difficult to fabricate with wood or even plexiglass. I see a new project in my very near future.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Chances are a kid's erector set would have all the frame parts you would need except for the clamp that secures it to the table. You'd have to find the rods in diameters needed.

 

[DaveP]

Go to YouTube and search for "RipTripper" to see detailed rebuild videos on most any popular atomizer.

 

[brookj1986]

Go to YouTube and search for "RipTripper" to see detailed rebuild videos on most any popular atomizer.

As Mac said, Rip is great at building enthusiasm and getting the basics of how things are done. Not to mention he's thoroughly entertaining. Use his enthusiasm and the tension micro coil process detailed in the previous posts to have an incredible vape experience.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.

 

[DaveP]

I wound a coil last night using 32 guage wire, 10 wraps. Once I installed it into a PT head it measured out at around 5 ohms! I knew it would be high. I just needed to confirm that I could wind a tight micro coil. I used the 3.2mm winder rod and it looked pretty wide for the head, but it fit and didn't short out. Now, I'm sure that winding a nano on a smaller diameter rod will be just what I need for lots of turns with a lower resistance.

Time will tell. I'll update. The coil winder from Hobby Lobby is going to be a major tool for me. I'm not really good with winding coils around needles and silica wick. It's much easier and much better for wicking if you can insert cotton after the wrap.

 

[MacTechVpr]

David, what is the diameter of the rod that you're winding on. Maybe we can come up with an accurate resistance figure. LMK. Curious and will help where I can.

Good luck.

 

[pjmarkert]

10 wraps of 32 on a 3.2mm form works out to 5.126 ohms assuming a .125" lead length

 

[f1vefour]

10 wraps of 32 on a 3.2mm form works out to 5.126 ohms assuming a .125" lead length

And a huge coil.

 

[Fulgurant]

So I spent the last month or so experimenting with protank coils, thanks in large part to this thread -- and I would be remiss if I failed to mention the infectious enthusiasm of Frédéric Bastiat MacTechVpr, whose posts on this and other subjects I've long admired.

At first, I had nothing but problems with the Protank (2); my evod worked quite well, but not noticeably better than other clearomizers. Then I switched from silica to organic cotton with similar results for the Protank and significantly better results for the evod. Then I ordered some aero-tank base pieces, along with a mini-Protank (2). When those items arrived, I thought, "In for a penny, in for a pound," and tried boiling my organic cotton in distilled water.*

Holy crap. Vape heaven, on all three devices, except now the eVod is by far the worst of the three. Leaving aside some minor complaints about the quality of the threads on the mini-Protank, I feel that the mini is the best self-contained device for rebuilding. The regular Protank (2), at least in my experience, is endlessly fiddly, endlessly capricious, with the stock base.

Anyway, all of this is a long way of saying, thanks to all who've posted here!

(* - I make no claims about the health benefits of boiling cotton before using it. I tried boiling simply to see if it would improve taste. I also don't want to sound as if the wick was the major determining factor; I also got better at coiling, and more importantly, better at positioning coils within the tiny 'cup' area of the protank head, during my adventures. Cotton certainly seems a lot easier to work with though, if nothing else.)