Love the tag line btw. No apportionment = no representation.
"Don't tax you, don't tax me, tax that fellow behind the tree! —Russell B. Long
Good luck fstop.
- Status
Love the tag line btw. No apportionment = no representation.
"Don't tax you, don't tax me, tax that fellow behind the tree! —Russell B. Long
Good luck fstop.
urrrggh daughter bought (without my supervision) a Kanger T3D tank. Anybody know if these can be rebuilt? I am thinking it might be the same coil as the PT3?
Maz I had read about Evolv's developments quite some time ago. It's the reason I slipped up talking about temperature in one of my responses to cigatron. My curious concern is whether it's use is more about temperature measurement or temperature limiting. All I can say. I think tensioned micro's keep temperatures right in the zone where they need to be when properly built. A lot to pay for a tech that you'd want to shut off to run a t.m.c. or micro. I like my performance without a rev or amp limiter. I'll wait for the video. Meanwhile YiHi!!!
$44.86 E-Holly 7-35W Variable Wattage APV Mod
Good luck.
Maz I had read about Evolv's developments quite some time ago. It's the reason I slipped up talking about temperature in one of my responses to cigatron. My curious concern is whether it's use is more about temperature measurement or temperature limiting. All I can say. I think tensioned micro's keep temperatures right in the zone where they need to be when properly built. A lot to pay for a tech that you'd want to shut off to run a t.m.c. or micro. I like my performance without a rev or amp limiter. I'll wait for the video. Meanwhile YiHi!!!…
$44.86 E-Holly 7-35W Variable Wattage APV Mod
Good luck.
I don't think you slipped up Mac. I think I did! I too hastily responded to the notion that chipsets measured temp and airflow. Hadn't heard of the new dna40.
With nickel 200 wire having some 25% greater temperature coefficient of resistance than kanthal (rise in res per degree of temp rise) the dna40 measures minute res changes and extrapolates temp! And because an increase in airflow cools the coil, causing res to drop, I guess it can be said that it measures airflow as well!
My bad, sorry Mac.
cig
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I don't think you slipped up Mac. I think I did! I too hastily responded to the notion that chipsets measured temp and airflow. Hadn't heard of the new dna40.
With nickel 200 wire having some 25x the temperature coefficient of resistance of kanthal (rise in res per degree of temp rise) the dna40 measures the res change and extrapolates temp! And because an increase in airflow cools the coil, causing res to drop, I guess it can be said that it measures airflow as well!
My bad, sorry Mac.
No worries. I didn't claim to understand it. LOL We're cool. I didn't mean to let that into the discussion. There was a more basic issue and that is we keep things as simple as poss here. As technical as necessary to apply the adaptation and that will no doubt require we discuss some science. Is what it is. But damn, let's get 'em to the vape. Less talk, more wind! And I''d been tryin' to take my own advice here.
For the record when I've used the word adhesion I've meant it generically. My bad if my allusions to alumina bonding might have misled some to think the disparate opposed layers were. It's not necessary to the rapid pulsed oxidation we use to cement the uniformity of the effect which is the goal of the wind strategy. You see, there I go again!
Maybe you ought to come up with the nomenclature enhancing mechanics to include an internal force that causes things to stick together in adhesion. I'd say magnetism, but I think it's already taken.
My wet paint wallboard analogy proly don't help here. Cause the paint molecules they just gotta be fusin'. But cig I just can't help myself. It's damned good, ya gotta admit. But we gotta figure out some way to keep 'em from watchin' the video long enough to stop 'em from yankin' their coils apart like the Thanksgivin' turkey's tossed wishbone.
Good luck cig.
Sometimes after refilling my kanger BCC's I experience a reduced juice flow causing less than cloudy vapes. Even dry hitting at times. Don't know if reverse puffing has been written on before so I'm not claiming I thought of this.
The process: If you experience dry hits or a slight burny taste when the tank is full to 3/4 full, and your voltage/wattage it set to your known workable level, your wick is under-juiced. A quick reverse puff will force an air bubble to rise through the juice to the top of the tank thereby reducing the vacuum that's limiting juice flow. One quick reverse puff is usually all that's required each time you detect an under-juiced condition but sometimes when the tank is very full a couple are needed. Carefull though, too many reverse puffs in a row will flood the coil.
Hope this helps
cig
The process: If you experience dry hits or a slight burny taste when the tank is full to 3/4 full, and your voltage/wattage it set to your known workable level, your wick is under-juiced. A quick reverse puff will force an air bubble to rise through the juice to the top of the tank thereby reducing the vacuum that's limiting juice flow. One quick reverse puff is usually all that's required each time you detect an under-juiced condition but sometimes when the tank is very full a couple are needed. Carefull though, too many reverse puffs in a row will flood the coil.
Hope this helps
cig
Maz I had read about Evolv's developments quite some time ago. It's the reason I slipped up talking about temperature in one of my responses to cigatron. My curious concern is whether it's use is more about temperature measurement or temperature limiting. All I can say. I think tensioned micro's keep temperatures right in the zone where they need to be when properly built. A lot to pay for a tech that you'd want to shut off to run a t.m.c. or micro. I like my performance without a rev or amp limiter. I'll wait for the video. Meanwhile YiHi!!!…
$44.86 E-Holly 7-35W Variable Wattage APV Mod
Good luck.
It's temperature limitation, not measurement. I look at it as insurance against dry hits. The vast majority of times you won't need it, if you coil and wick properly i suppose, but it's nice to know you won't ever get a dry hit or char your cotton or even have the temperature so high that your juice degrades.
The devices are currently very expensive, but the price will fall soon, and China has already announced the clones will be coming out in December !
Here's a couple of links in case you or anyone else is interested :
A PBusardo Video - Introducing the DNA 40 Temperature Protection Board with a Special Guest - YouTube
http://vaping.com/news/exclusive-interview-brandon-john-from-evolv
The Cigatron coil winder was the perfect instrument for this build ! Thanks Cig
View attachment 384070
No probs Maz, glad to see you're putting it to good use.
So tell us about the vape. More vapor production or flavor than horizontal coils? More power required maybe? Heavy chaining capable?
cig
You're a champ maz. Bears repeating...if you can build it here, you can build it anywhere.
This is the school of hard knocks (made simple).
Good luck.
No probs Maz, glad to see you're putting it to good use.
So tell us about the vape. More vapor production or flavor than horizontal coils? More power required maybe? Heavy chaining capable?
Vapor production is as good or better than the my best performing horizontal coil. Flavor is about even i would say, although i have only vaped one juice with it so far, and i don't remember exactly how it tasted with a horizontal coil. More power, yes i would say so. I am not sure if it needs more power, but it can definitely handle more power.
I just finished 2 ml of Acadian Gold. Refilling. Ordinarily i wash and re-wick and change juice after every tank, but i am curious to see how much juice this can handle especially since re-wicking will likely be a lot more challenging.
Awesome 
Thank you all. Been vaping all day on Hangsen Delux Tobacco, a little Congress, a little Smooth, started with a little menthol great taste of mint in the first tank, then just kept adding Delux all 0 nicotine 1.5 iClear30B tanks today. Waiting on some RY6, Virgina Flue Cured, Stuyvesant a Berlin Cigarette Brand. Hangsen's process for extracting tobacco flavors is worth a try and at some of the best prices I've seen in the growing Boutique Styling of E-liquids. Finally, feeling on track here.
Thank you all. Been vaping all day on Hangsen Delux Tobacco, a little Congress, a little Smooth, started with a little menthol great taste of mint in the first tank, then just kept adding Delux all 0 nicotine 1.5 iClear30B tanks today. Waiting on some RY6, Virgina Flue Cured, Stuyvesant a Berlin Cigarette Brand. Hangsen's process for extracting tobacco flavors is worth a try and at some of the best prices I've seen in the growing Boutique Styling of E-liquids. Finally, feeling on track here.
Hello all. Thought it was time to introduce myself....as I successfully rebuilt three Protank coils tonight. I'm using 30 gauge Kanthal on 1/16 drill bit. I didn't quite hit my mark for resistances, but no shorts and I came close. I wanted two at 1.8 and one at 2.2 but ended up with two at 1.6 and one at 2.4. I was in a rush, so I think with more focus next time it will go a bit better. I've been lurking and reading this thread for some time. Not sure if all my coils were touching.... In fact I know they weren't, but I'm still pretty happy. They perform and taste better than factory. Next goal is to get them tighter and make a cigamajig to make things easier.
I did use cotton yarn as a wick....wondering everyone's thoughts on that. I thought initially it would help me get the sizing of the wick right. It fed thru the coils OK... But I suspect the flavor might be a bit muted. Still better than silica I think though.
I will be posting more in the future....but wanted to say thanks to those of you blazing the trails for noobs like myself. I've been vaping a little over two months. Was beginning to hate my protanks but kept seeing they had potential if rebuilt. Now I am a believer!
I did use cotton yarn as a wick....wondering everyone's thoughts on that. I thought initially it would help me get the sizing of the wick right. It fed thru the coils OK... But I suspect the flavor might be a bit muted. Still better than silica I think though.
I will be posting more in the future....but wanted to say thanks to those of you blazing the trails for noobs like myself. I've been vaping a little over two months. Was beginning to hate my protanks but kept seeing they had potential if rebuilt. Now I am a believer!
Good to hear another success story.
Just use what fits inside the grooves of the protank head. Get a kanger airflow adapter and then drill the holes bigger. The adapter is a game changer with protanks. Of your after the 1.8 target range then use 32 gauge cause you might have too much coil in the PT with the 30 gauge. Once you get building down pat you'll go into lower ohm builds like 1.2-.1.4 with the 30 gauge. 1.4ohm seems to be a sweetspot with my protank and provari..
Sizing the wick is that you twist it through just until it begins to bind a bit then back it off, less is good when using cotton. A good judge of how much cotton to use is tear off a Qtip swab and remove bout 1/3, leaving 2/3 to twist into the coil.
Welcome B2 and congratulations. This is the Protank Microcoil thread. When I arrived on ECF it was the 2.4Ω, 32 gauge, 6 wrap forum and everyone vaped Vivi Nova's. We've come a long way and so has vaping since the advent of the contact and tensioned microcoil here and here. This thread is about perfect localization, termination and precision winds of optimized microcoils on the KPT and similar. We can get you there and the experience is orders of magnitude beyond what preceded it.
You'll need some inexpensive tools, specifically a .07" drill blank or something in that dimension (maximum slot width) and a spool of wire preferably 29/30 AWG to get started. This will get you winds at about the center of a Protank's optimal performance range. Once you have a pin vise and possibly an inexpensive set of Dremel bits you will be able to manually drill out aero bases to 1/16" for optimal air flow. Alter's advise is well taken there. There are newer aero bases available at larger air hole diameters if you're just starting with these.
My goal, what I encourage here, is to start with a baseline high performance wind that you can repeat confidently, a tensioned microcoil. From there you'll pretty much be able to go anywhere do anything you want.
While cotton is my ideal, I don't have the time to rewick more than a couple of tanks every day or two. If you want the stand-out, consistent and flavor uncolored vape that will last you weeks with minimum fiddly you should also consider Nextel XC-132 ceramic wick. It's available from RBA Supplies and SnG Vapor. For more info on these consult this thread. Plenty of info on ECF including many posts by me on the subject. It threads flawlessly into the above optimized wind and is about the most carefree and rewarding vaping experience you may have on a Protank. Not a suggested preference just a reliable recommendation.
Step up and shout out anytime. Plenty of us here who know how to execute this and get you through. If at anytime you get hung, PM me.
Pleased if you join us and succeed. Help us pass on this technology.
Good luck.
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Alter and Mac,
Thanks for the suggestions. I actually do have one PT with the aerobase. Not real sure which version I've got but it does improve airflow considerably. Will pick up another for the other PT that I have.
Maybe you guys can steer me in the right direction with my target resistances. Here was my dilemma previously. I have two battery types:
1. Eleaf Istick, which most on the forum are now familiar with. It's VV/VW from 3.0V to 5.5V , and up to 20W... I believe. The way it measures output is not precise...and I guess in reality it's lowest setting is about 4.1V. I've over-simplified that discussion, I am sure but for our purposes I'll go with that explanation. Guessing you're already familiar with it.
2. Kamry X6. This is VV only, (no display for anything), voltage options are 3.6, 3.8, and 4.2. Not sure if I'd describe this as a mod. Here's what it looks like:
2014 Popular Color X6 1300mAh Variable Voltage ego e cigarette battery plus mini X9 atomizer | Shenzhen Kamry Technology Co., Ltd|E-Cigarette,Electronic Cigarette
Hope that link worked.
At any rate, I was /am unsure what the optimal resistance is for my coils. If possible, I'd like to shoot for the same resistance /ohms on every coil, to get that repetition going. But, not a big deal if I would be better of doing different resistance coils for the two devices.
I wasn't sure what to aim for...as my previous experience was with the stock Kanger coils only. They were finicky to say the least. On the two batteries it seemed that 1.8ohm stock coils were too hot for me, and wicking wasn't keeping up. 2.0 or 2.2 ohm stock coils seemed to work fine on the X6 and on the istick at the lowest Eleaf Istick setting of 3.0V (which I understand is really about 4.1V).
However, the 1.6ohm coils I made last night are wicking well enough to run on the X6 battery.....and I ran the 2.4ohm coil on the istick.
My prior experience with the stock Kanger coils was that they were really finicky. 1.8ohm seemed to be too hot for my batteries....the wicking was not keeping up. I'd get dry hits or spitting of juice at me. It seems the rebuilds wick much better.
Ideally, I think 1.8ohm would work on both batteries adequately....and by trying to consistently get the same resistance every time, I would develop that muscle memory you're talking about. What are your thoughts? Does that seem reasonable? Right now with most of my juices, I seem to prefer about 8.5 to 10Watts.
Last ? for now. I'm trusting the ohms reading of my istick exclusively. I realize it would be better to have another back-up, but it seems the majority of folks get by this way, using the ohms reading on their primary device. My only concern with that is once tested, I put these on the Kamry X6 battery which displays nothing. I assume that this battery has safety protection for shorts or too low ohms . I know it has some chip in it, but not sure what all it regulates, and even the Kamry website in the link I provided gives no indication that what is regulated on the battery. It also seems to have no venting.
I hate to abandon these three X6 batteries I have because they are very user friendly, and comfortable in hand. Quite ergonomic, and durable. I'd like to run them till they die of natural causes...then replace with another istick (or if something much better comes out in the future).
Sorry for the long post again. So much to ask.
Thanks for the suggestions. I actually do have one PT with the aerobase. Not real sure which version I've got but it does improve airflow considerably. Will pick up another for the other PT that I have.
Maybe you guys can steer me in the right direction with my target resistances. Here was my dilemma previously. I have two battery types:
1. Eleaf Istick, which most on the forum are now familiar with. It's VV/VW from 3.0V to 5.5V , and up to 20W... I believe. The way it measures output is not precise...and I guess in reality it's lowest setting is about 4.1V. I've over-simplified that discussion, I am sure but for our purposes I'll go with that explanation. Guessing you're already familiar with it.
2. Kamry X6. This is VV only, (no display for anything), voltage options are 3.6, 3.8, and 4.2. Not sure if I'd describe this as a mod. Here's what it looks like:
2014 Popular Color X6 1300mAh Variable Voltage ego e cigarette battery plus mini X9 atomizer | Shenzhen Kamry Technology Co., Ltd|E-Cigarette,Electronic Cigarette
Hope that link worked.
At any rate, I was /am unsure what the optimal resistance is for my coils. If possible, I'd like to shoot for the same resistance /ohms on every coil, to get that repetition going. But, not a big deal if I would be better of doing different resistance coils for the two devices.
I wasn't sure what to aim for...as my previous experience was with the stock Kanger coils only. They were finicky to say the least. On the two batteries it seemed that 1.8ohm stock coils were too hot for me, and wicking wasn't keeping up. 2.0 or 2.2 ohm stock coils seemed to work fine on the X6 and on the istick at the lowest Eleaf Istick setting of 3.0V (which I understand is really about 4.1V).
However, the 1.6ohm coils I made last night are wicking well enough to run on the X6 battery.....and I ran the 2.4ohm coil on the istick.
My prior experience with the stock Kanger coils was that they were really finicky. 1.8ohm seemed to be too hot for my batteries....the wicking was not keeping up. I'd get dry hits or spitting of juice at me. It seems the rebuilds wick much better.
Ideally, I think 1.8ohm would work on both batteries adequately....and by trying to consistently get the same resistance every time, I would develop that muscle memory you're talking about. What are your thoughts? Does that seem reasonable? Right now with most of my juices, I seem to prefer about 8.5 to 10Watts.
Last ? for now. I'm trusting the ohms reading of my istick exclusively. I realize it would be better to have another back-up, but it seems the majority of folks get by this way, using the ohms reading on their primary device. My only concern with that is once tested, I put these on the Kamry X6 battery which displays nothing. I assume that this battery has safety protection for shorts or too low ohms . I know it has some chip in it, but not sure what all it regulates, and even the Kamry website in the link I provided gives no indication that what is regulated on the battery. It also seems to have no venting.
I hate to abandon these three X6 batteries I have because they are very user friendly, and comfortable in hand. Quite ergonomic, and durable. I'd like to run them till they die of natural causes...then replace with another istick (or if something much better comes out in the future).
Sorry for the long post again. So much to ask.
Well, shoulda done my own research before asking everyone here. I did find one supplier of the Kamry X6 who states these have short circuit protection.
http://kamrytech.gmc.globalmarket.com/products/details/wholesale-kamry-x6-e-cigarette-x6-ecig-kit-with-1300mah-ego-x6-battery-8400553.html
I guess the button flashes 10X if short. (It also does that when battery is too low to fire). Guess I feel better about that.
http://kamrytech.gmc.globalmarket.com/products/details/wholesale-kamry-x6-e-cigarette-x6-ecig-kit-with-1300mah-ego-x6-battery-8400553.html
I guess the button flashes 10X if short. (It also does that when battery is too low to fire). Guess I feel better about that.
Welcome B2,
You have definitely come to the right place for Kanger PT's. The folks here are very helpful in aiding you to achieve whatever it is your after. We still love our ProTanks and that's due to air flow controls, proper coil builds and a variety of wicking media.
My favorite at the time is a 1.8 ohm coil built on a .073 dia. tool using 30 gauge kanthal. I am currently testing my builds with KGD (Ko Gen Do Japanese cotton) and so far I am finding it superior to anything I have used.
If you have questions feel free to ask, this is a great thred for help and information!
Vape On My Friends!
You have definitely come to the right place for Kanger PT's. The folks here are very helpful in aiding you to achieve whatever it is your after. We still love our ProTanks and that's due to air flow controls, proper coil builds and a variety of wicking media.
My favorite at the time is a 1.8 ohm coil built on a .073 dia. tool using 30 gauge kanthal. I am currently testing my builds with KGD (Ko Gen Do Japanese cotton) and so far I am finding it superior to anything I have used.
If you have questions feel free to ask, this is a great thred for help and information!
Vape On My Friends!
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