Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

[crg31953]

Jamie
I have an MVP and that is what I use for my OHM reader

Just a personal opinion,

I have 4 regulated devices and all of them show resistance. I also have an ohm meter.

I'll check my build with the meter to make sure all is good and resistance is where it should be. I can put my topper on all 4 of my mods and each one will read different, some .5 off.

Personally I don't trust mods for accurate readings hence the necessity for an ohm meter or tester. My mods aren't cheapies either.

Just my 2 cents friends.

 

[brookj1986]

See, I've gone away from regulated mods. But that's also because I've done a lot of research on batteries, coils, and sub ohming as safely as possible.

Mainly VTC5s, vtc4s, orbtronic sx30, and just ordered the 24 amp aw 1600 mah.

Also keep it right around 0.3-0.8 depending on juice and atty.

Battery gets cycled regularly and maintained. Contacts as well.

Takes a great deal more fine tuning than a regulated device, but I love it.

Still will use regulated, but my reos and other mechs have over taken as I'm dripping or squonking regularly and rarely use tanks

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 via Tapatalk.

 

[crg31953]

Question for you all,

Has any one here had experience with both of the Kanger air flow controls V2 and V3? I'm going to pick up a few more PT2s which means air flow controls and I'm curious as to preferences.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Question for you all,

Has any one here had experience with both of the Kanger air flow controls V2 and V3? I'm going to pick up a few more PT2s which means air flow controls and I'm curious as to preferences.

The v3 looks scary huge. Hate to say what I might be tempted to build with that and hide from the kiddies. Oops, my bad.

Which I guess is a good segue to what I've been hinting at writing about. Everybody knows I'm a proud sponsor of the standard build. Hey, nail that cross-section at 1.8-2.Ω on a Protank and the world is your oyster. But really mea culpa how do we get on to gettin' on? I mean, I was stuck here trying to build some sign posts but the rest of you aren't. I really had intended for those fine 28g's to end up in some kinda device besides a Kanger. But to do that we all have to learn an important element to upping the power beyond 10W. One of them in many devices is that cotton ain't always going to make you happy. And I've talked up synthetics enough especially ceramic wick. But the third and most important element is airflow and that's been neglected round these here neck of the woods. So thanks crg for bringin' this up.

Truth is a Protank's capable of a lot more with a t.m.c. (shorter length, consistent diameter) so big turns and big wire are definitely doable. If you're going to drop those ohm's or push that power though you're going to need some air. Way back earlier this year when the aero base came out, feels like ages, some feeble attempts were made to discuss drilling out the air holes. Again, my bad. I can't speak for anyone else but I should've hopped all over that as I was drillin' out all my gear and talkin' that up. Instead I've mentioned how unreliable the vape can be on a KPT above 10W. And it's true…if you leave those stock air holes alone.

However since silicone grommets it's been clear just how much grommet scrunching can kill airflow and so the vape (apart from poppin' hangers). Consistent air matching your build is essential to keep up proper operation. This helped prompt me to slowly revisit my builds with various slight increases to air hole size on the standard and aero bases. Just forget about that. Waste of time…go straight for the juggler and drill those puppies, all of 'em to 1/16". You can just close them down if you need to. So no excuse maxing them out gives you a huge variability of air flow control to adjust for potentials of your wind and PV choice.

And if you've never built on anything but a Protank, no one thing you can do more demonstrates what a vaping experience can be on a more formidable device than more air. So don't think about it. Just do it. Before you go out and drop your coin on new bases. Too much too handle? Grab a handful and take 'em to your shop if they have a press (and 1/16" bit/s). If you bring the following with they'll probably do it for nothin' just for the curiosity of it (and it's easy). Always tip anyway. Nice thing to do.

You should already have something like this…

Jeweler's Pin Vise 4 Chucks 0 3mm to 3 0mm | eBay

You would need a few drill blank sizes to work with a Protank for coils but for most other things the sizes provided in the following are awesome and standard for making coils...

Dremel 628-01 7 Piece Drill Bit Set - Power Rotary Tool Accessories - Amazon.com

At this price buy two! They do occasionally snap anyway. A backup is a good thing. And a pair will aid set in a dual-coil arrangement. Almost indispensable for verticals.

Secondly if you need to drill bigger air for an RDA nothings beats a Dremel bit. So your gear won't get skewered if you take it to a shop to have it done.

The reality is that if you have a pin vise, guess what, it's easy to just ream most of this stuff out by hand in less than 5 minutes. Really. Perhaps closer to 10 for an aero base as you have three holes. And doing it by hand doesn't create dust which the Dremel itself will do. So always wet the piece before drilling either way.

Anyway sorry for the long spiel tonight. This one's really important. I found my reluctance to use more power on the KPT was utterly blown away, dispelled by finally being able to take advantage of Nextel performance above 10W. And over the past months I've been impressed at the improvement. Too early to start talking days or weeks but just to say how satisfying day-10 is on a 10/29/2.2 at 12W. It still gets wet driving it if you overheat you're going to have to blow the wick out. But this too seems better under control.

So run, don't walk, for your pin vise and drill bit.

It's about time. Saving it (and money). And air flow is the ultimate for high-performance synthetics and cotton.

Good luck.

 

[chanelvaps]

I did buy, and receive, via the mailman my bits from Sunco and I am awaiting my Pin Vise in the mail next week.
(I listened)

The v3 looks scary huge. Hate to say what I might be tempted to build with that and hide from the kiddies. Oops, my bad.

Which I guess is a good segue to what I've been hinting at writing about. Everybody knows I'm a proud sponsor of the standard build. Hey, nail that cross-section at 1.8-2.Ω on a Protank and the world is your oyster. But really mea culpa how do we get on to gettin' on? I mean, I was stuck here trying to build some sign posts but the rest of you aren't. I really had intended for those fine 28g's to end up in some kinda device besides a Kanger. But to do that we all have to learn an important element to upping the power beyond 10W. One of them in many devices is that cotton ain't always going to make you happy. And I've talked up synthetics enough especially ceramic wick. But the third and most important element is airflow and that's been neglected round these here neck of the woods. So thanks crg for bringin' this up.

Truth is a Protank's capable of a lot more with a t.m.c. (shorter length, consistent diameter) so big turns and big wire are definitely doable. If you're going to drop those ohm's or push that power though you're going to need some air. Way back earlier this year when the aero base came out, feels like ages, some feeble attempts were made to discuss drilling out the air holes. Again, my bad. I can't speak for anyone else but I should've hopped all over that as I was drillin' out all my gear and talkin' that up. Instead I've mentioned how unreliable the vape can be on a KPT above 10W. And it's true…if you leave those stock air holes alone.

However since silicone grommets it's been clear just how much grommet scrunching can kill airflow and so the vape (apart from poppin' hangers). Consistent air matching your build is essential to keep up proper operation. This helped prompt me to slowly revisit my builds with various slight increases to air hole size on the standard and aero bases. Just forget about that. Waste of time…go straight for the juggler and drill those puppies, all of 'em to 1/16". You can just close them down if you need to. So no excuse maxing them out gives you a huge variability of air flow control to adjust for potentials of your wind and PV choice.

And if you've never built on anything but a Protank, no one thing you can do more demonstrates what a vaping experience can be on a more formidable device than more air. So don't think about it. Just do it. Before you go out and drop your coin on new bases. Too much too handle? Grab a handful and take 'em to your shop if they have a press (and 1/16" bit/s). If you bring the following with they'll probably do it for nothin' just for the curiosity of it (and it's easy). Always tip anyway. Nice thing to do.

You should already have something like this…

Jeweler's Pin Vise 4 Chucks 0 3mm to 3 0mm | eBay

You would need a few drill blank sizes to work with a Protank for coils but for most other things the sizes provided in the following are awesome and standard for making coils...

Dremel 628-01 7 Piece Drill Bit Set - Power Rotary Tool Accessories - Amazon.com

At this price buy two! They do occasionally snap anyway. A backup is a good thing. And a pair will aid set in a dual-coil arrangement. Almost indispensable for verticals.

Secondly if you need to drill bigger air for an RDA nothings beats a Dremel bit. So your gear won't get skewered if you take it to a shop to have it done.

The reality is that if you have a pin vise, guess what, it's easy to just ream most of this stuff out by hand in less than 5 minutes. Really. Perhaps closer to 10 for an aero base as you have three holes. And doing it by hand doesn't create dust which the Dremel itself will do. So always wet the piece before drilling either way.

Anyway sorry for the long spiel tonight. This one's really important. I found my reluctance to use more power on the KPT was utterly blown away, dispelled by finally being able to take advantage of Nextel performance above 10W. And over the past months I've been impressed at the improvement. Too early to start talking days or weeks but just to say how satisfying day-10 is on a 10/29/2.2 at 12W. It still gets wet driving it if you overheat you're going to have to blow the wick out. But this too seems better under control.

So run, don't walk, for your pin vise and drill bit.

It's about time. Saving it (and money). And air flow is the ultimate for high-performance synthetics and cotton.

Good luck.

 

[crg31953]

I hear you Bro,

I have been doing a lot of playing myself, and this is what my personal tastes end up as.

I have found that a 1.5 ohm coil, 30g kanthal micro style as you have taught us running at about 10 watts and rayon (sorry I can't compare to ceramic bud) is working well for most of my juices. I do find that having the adjustability effects some stubborn juices where if I open or close the airflow just a hair improves the flavor.

Sub-ohm builds and high wattages just don't seem to cut it in regards to flavor. I guess that is why I prefer VV/VW mods. I have tried a lot at 3.7 volts attempting to mimic a mech. mod and the flavor diminishes a lot and more than I care to except. I'm not a cloud chaser.

To me, having that ability to tweak up or down on air flow just a tiny bit means a lot of difference in flavor, hence air flow controls. I definitely agree with the drilling part my friend, we touched on this a bit with the difference of bore sizes in positive post pins.

I guess the bottom line, or what I'm trying to say is that if we all vaped the same VG/PG ratio and used the e-juice from the same vendor everything would be consistent. Since we have no control over that we need to be able to provide for max airflow with the pin and still use a control to tweak for vendor/ratio/flavor variations.

I could be 100% wrong in my assumption here and as you know I will always accept a difference of opinion or someone kicking me in the jewels and saying your wrong.

Please correct me if I am! Trying to look at all the variables here.

PS-You Da Man Mac!

 

[crg31953]

So Mac,

Tell me about ceramic! Sorry but I know nothing about It.

 

[MacTechVpr]

I hear you Bro,

I have been doing a lot of playing myself, and this is what my personal tastes end up as.

I have found that a 1.5 ohm coil, 30g kanthal micro style as you have taught us running at about 10 watts and rayon (sorry I can't compare to ceramic bud) is working well for most of my juices. I do find that having the adjustability effects some stubborn juices where if I open or close the airflow just a hair improves the flavor.

Sub-ohm builds and high wattages just don't seem to cut it in regards to flavor. I guess that is why I prefer VV/VW mods. I have tried a lot at 3.7 volts attempting to mimic a mech. mod and the flavor diminishes a lot and more than I care to except. I'm not a cloud chaser.

To me, having that ability to tweak up or down on air flow just a tiny bit means a lot of difference in flavor, hence air flow controls. I definitely agree with the drilling part my friend, we touched on this a bit with the difference of bore sizes in positive post pins.

I guess the bottom line, or what I'm trying to say is that if we all vaped the same VG/PG ratio and used the e-juice from the same vendor everything would be consistent. Since we have no control over that we need to be able to provide for max airflow with the pin and still use a control to tweak for vendor/ratio/flavor variations.

I could be 100% wrong in my assumption here and as you know I will always accept a difference of opinion or someone kicking me in the jewels and saying your wrong.

Please correct me if I am! Trying to look at all the variables here.

PS-You Da Man Mac!

Would have stated it slightly different…call me dimwit for not having spoken to the issue of air flow sooner.



Airflow and juice flow must match or you won't see the best from any device. We've been shortchanged from the beginning. That's why I complained that Kanger should have done this from the outset. Whoever first posted about drilling out the original 510 connector on the KPT should be given a medal.

I bought my first pair of variables 10 days in. I figured you needed versatility to get the best out of vaping (juices), yes. A t.m.c. is just the means to optimize the direction. So is an efficient wick.

I think a agree there is flavor lost in the extremes. The reasons are multitude.

Nextel is a million garden hoses compressed down into a <1.8mm space. It's the bullet-train of wicks. I don't think you can drill holes big enough for it on a Protank. The one 1/8" dual RDA cap I have with 3mm nextel doesn't approach diminishing the density. We use 2mm (roughly) ceramic in the Protank. A single Nextel wick KPT coil can last (with washes and dry burning) conceivably months. I really haven't found the outside of that one.

It'll have to continue tomorrow. An extremely long day for me.

Good night all.

 

[cigatron]

The v3 looks scary huge. Hate to say what I might be tempted to build with that and hide from the kiddies. Oops, my bad.

Which I guess is a good segue to what I've been hinting at writing about. Everybody knows I'm a proud sponsor of the standard build. Hey, nail that cross-section at 1.8-2.Ω on a Protank and the world is your oyster. But really mea culpa how do we get on to gettin' on? I mean, I was stuck here trying to build some sign posts but the rest of you aren't. I really had intended for those fine 28g's to end up in some kinda device besides a Kanger. But to do that we all have to learn an important element to upping the power beyond 10W. One of them in many devices is that cotton ain't always going to make you happy. And I've talked up synthetics enough especially ceramic wick. But the third and most important element is airflow and that's been neglected round these here neck of the woods. So thanks crg for bringin' this up.

Truth is a Protank's capable of a lot more with a t.m.c. (shorter length, consistent diameter) so big turns and big wire are definitely doable. If you're going to drop those ohm's or push that power though you're going to need some air. Way back earlier this year when the aero base came out, feels like ages, some feeble attempts were made to discuss drilling out the air holes. Again, my bad. I can't speak for anyone else but I should've hopped all over that as I was drillin' out all my gear and talkin' that up. Instead I've mentioned how unreliable the vape can be on a KPT above 10W. And it's true…if you leave those stock air holes alone.

However since silicone grommets it's been clear just how much grommet scrunching can kill airflow and so the vape (apart from poppin' hangers). Consistent air matching your build is essential to keep up proper operation. This helped prompt me to slowly revisit my builds with various slight increases to air hole size on the standard and aero bases. Just forget about that. Waste of time…go straight for the juggler and drill those puppies, all of 'em to 1/16". You can just close them down if you need to. So no excuse maxing them out gives you a huge variability of air flow control to adjust for potentials of your wind and PV choice.

And if you've never built on anything but a Protank, no one thing you can do more demonstrates what a vaping experience can be on a more formidable device than more air. So don't think about it. Just do it. Before you go out and drop your coin on new bases. Too much too handle? Grab a handful and take 'em to your shop if they have a press (and 1/16" bit/s). If you bring the following with they'll probably do it for nothin' just for the curiosity of it (and it's easy). Always tip anyway. Nice thing to do.

You should already have something like this…

Jeweler's Pin Vise 4 Chucks 0 3mm to 3 0mm | eBay

You would need a few drill blank sizes to work with a Protank for coils but for most other things the sizes provided in the following are awesome and standard for making coils...

Dremel 628-01 7 Piece Drill Bit Set - Power Rotary Tool Accessories - Amazon.com

At this price buy two! They do occasionally snap anyway. A backup is a good thing. And a pair will aid set in a dual-coil arrangement. Almost indispensable for verticals.

Secondly if you need to drill bigger air for an RDA nothings beats a Dremel bit. So your gear won't get skewered if you take it to a shop to have it done.

The reality is that if you have a pin vise, guess what, it's easy to just ream most of this stuff out by hand in less than 5 minutes. Really. Perhaps closer to 10 for an aero base as you have three holes. And doing it by hand doesn't create dust which the Dremel itself will do. So always wet the piece before drilling either way.

Anyway sorry for the long spiel tonight. This one's really important. I found my reluctance to use more power on the KPT was utterly blown away, dispelled by finally being able to take advantage of Nextel performance above 10W. And over the past months I've been impressed at the improvement. Too early to start talking days or weeks but just to say how satisfying day-10 is on a 10/29/2.2 at 12W. It still gets wet driving it if you overheat you're going to have to blow the wick out. But this too seems better under control.

So run, don't walk, for your pin vise and drill bit.

It's about time. Saving it (and money). And air flow is the ultimate for high-performance synthetics and cotton.

Good luck.

Sounds strikingly similar to posts I wrote 6 months or so ago about drilling the airholes out in evod and mpt2 bases
to up your wattage capabilities. It's the first thing I do to all the tanks I buy. Glad it finally became someone elses idea; not that it was mine to begin with.

What 5.1 volt power source are you running at 12 watts with that 2.2ohm build?

cig

 

[chet]

Hi all.
Would someone here be able to sell me a few of these grommets?

clonecores - 50-pack Rubber Insulators for Coil Rebuilding

I live in Canada and they don't ship to Canada, and my rebuilt protank at 1.2ohm tastes gross and I'm suspecting this white silicon grommet. I just need a couple to try out and see if it's the grommet issue.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Hi all.
Would someone here be able to sell me a few of these grommets?

clonecores - 50-pack Rubber Insulators for Coil Rebuilding

I live in Canada and they don't ship to Canada, and my rebuilt protank at 1.2ohm tastes gross and I'm suspecting this white silicon grommet. I just need a couple to try out and see if it's the grommet issue.

Simple way to determine wasup is…pull the wick and take a peek inside the cup with the coil installed. If either lead presents a darkened or charred area at the point of termination with the insulator…you have a short. You may need a magnifier to be sure and/or a penlight or such. I got ya covered on the insulators, if you like; however, replacing the grommet's not going to cure that chet. And we could spend hours here trying to diagnose the body mechanics for sure. Or, you could wind this…

and 90% of those shorts will vamoose.

It's not the grommet that's giving you the foul vape, it's an unstable coil. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't.

Let us know here and we'll try and help. BTW, wash any lightly cut or scorched insulators well, dry them hot with a hairdryer and you are not likely to smell or taste any residual (unless you shorted really badly and kept vaping). So they're good to reuse. Slight chance of overlapping a cut or scorch but negligible if you're careful at the set.

If you've got the cheap parts we've been discussing here (pin vise, drill blanks or bits) you're minutes away from curing your grommet problems.

In fact, it's hardly even worth discussing what's wrong or right with the coil or set, as I've increasingly been making the argument. It just takes seconds or minutes to make a new one. That's time out of your life. Over and over. Stop tryin' to understand it y'all and just do it. And don't just say that…I hear it over and over…when it's this simple, rewind until your happy with it. That's the part that takes seconds. The fiddling is the maddening part. So if you wasted a couple of pennies of wire no biggie. Time is our most precious commodity.

Be pleased to send you some then if you still think you need 'em.

Good luck.

 

[clnire]

I find every now and then a "was working great"coil will suddenly show nothing for ohms. I don't hesitate or try to diagnose - in less than 5 minutes I have a new working coil and wick.

 

[MacTechVpr]

I find every now and then a "was working great"coil will suddenly show nothing for ohms. I don't hesitate or try to diagnose - in less than 5 minutes I have a new working coil and wick.

Time is our most precious commodity. And the waste of it the loss of an opportunity to enjoy our vape. The cause of failure will no doubt present itself as we at last observe ourselves eventually creating it. You must remind yourself not to meantime is some of the best advice we ever give ourselves…we learn as the opportunity arises.

Some of the best inventions of mankind have been quite by accident.

Vape on!



Good luck.

 

[Jaime Bates]

Jamie
I have an MVP and that is what I use for my OHM reader

I agree that's why I got an MVP but screwing bases on and off to test my coils have caused the previous MVP to have to go back. So I will get an ohm reader soon.

 

[Jaime Bates]

Time is our most precious commodity. And the waste of it the loss of an opportunity to enjoy our vape. The cause of failure will no doubt present itself as we at last observe ourselves eventually creating it. You must remind yourself not to meantime is some of the best advice we ever give ourselves…we learn as the opportunity arises.

Some of the best inventions of mankind have been quite by accident.

Vape on!



Good luck.

I couldn't agree more. Mac you know what im talking about. I had some struggle with the PT2 and then the MVP quit out on me too. But now a few weeks later im a happy vaper. [emoji2][emoji2]

 

[cigatron]

I agree that's why I got an MVP but screwing bases on and off to test my coils have caused the previous MVP to have to go back. So I will get an ohm reader soon.

Sorry to hear your MVP failed. Any idea what happened? "NON" reading maybe? Had that happen my VV3.

cig

 

[Jaime Bates]

Sorry to hear your MVP failed. Any idea what happened? "NON" reading maybe? Had that happen my VV3.

cig

Actually wouldn't read 0.0 pin and grommet issue. Thats ok where I ordered it from got me a good deal I ordered another. Suffered a little this week without and had the new one yesterday. The old one is in the mail on its way back to Indiana. So im good. Check out the new toy though. Pic below.

 

[crg31953]

Do you folks know how great this thread is, but yet how weird?

My first real topper after going through several cigalike units and then the Halo Triton was a PT2 and a Vamo V2. Since then I have a Sigelei 30w, an e-Vic Supreme 30w, an itaste VTR, a GP Spheroid, a KFL+ V2 and a Russian 91% V2. Yet the device I find I always go back to is the PT2!
It is really amazing what you can do with this device! Once you learn about proper coil building and sufficient air flow, it is amazing what this simple device can do! There are an abundance of suppliers of original and after market parts and complete units. I have yet to see that in another device, I wonder why that is! Possibility's are endless!
Those people here are not trying to blow smoke up your highny! Experience is the divining factor, people like Mac and cig have been doing this for a long time! If your a noob and have questions or need help you won't find a better place to be than right here. No one will steer you in a wrong direction!
I put this here because things always get slow when school starts, yet there are always beginners. Share this place with your friends and they will get a great and simple start to a smoke free future!

Now I'm up to 4 cents!

 

[Jaime Bates]

Do you folks know how great this thread is, but yet how weird?

My first real topper after going through several cigalike units and then the Halo Triton was a PT2 and a Vamo V2. Since then I have a Sigelei 30w, an e-Vic Supreme 30w, an itaste VTR, a GP Spheroid, a KFL+ V2 and a Russian 91% V2. Yet the device I find I always go back to is the PT2!
It is really amazing what you can do with this device! Once you learn about proper coil building and sufficient air flow, it is amazing what this simple device can do! There are an abundance of suppliers of original and after market parts and complete units. I have yet to see that in another device, I wonder why that is! Possibility's are endless!
Those people here are not trying to blow smoke up your highny! Experience is the divining factor, people like Mac and cig have been doing this for a long time! If your a noob and have questions or need help you won't find a better place to be than right here. No one will steer you in a wrong direction!
I put this here because things always get slow when school starts, yet there are always beginners. Share this place with your friends and they will get a great and simple start to a smoke free future!

Now I'm up to 4 cents!

I couldn't agree more Mac has been a great help to me and my builds and the issues I have had with PT2. Everyone across the board this thread and others want to help everyone. Which I wouldn't say im a newb not anymore. Lol but its been up and down and round and round finally have success with my devices and now got my first rda. I couldn't be a happier vaper. But I know that mac has work with me for hrs over the course of days to get me to this level of confidence. But dont get it wrong I know I still have alot to learn and im a sponge I want to learn it all. So all I have to say no question is a dumb question everyone here has probably been there done that. [emoji2]

 

[MacTechVpr]

Glad to see you all enjoying your vape. And you can dial up a pretty darn close to an analog experience with the info on this thread. That's how I'd say it, to solve the mystery. So I couldn't agree more crg, it is kinda weird, almost sinful, to get this kind of performance out of a 20buck clearo.

Although it kind'a begs the question — why don't they do it?

Oh well, never mind. We're rockin'.

Vape on.