In doubt? Are you holdin' PT2 heads? Then that's all you get. We're talkin' PT3 (I think).
Plus I haven't mic'd these yet.
Wish me luck.
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In doubt? Are you holdin' PT2 heads? Then that's all you get. We're talkin' PT3 (I think).
Plus I haven't mic'd these yet.
Wish me luck.
Sorry, Yup I was referring to PT2 Heads.
From A Galaxy Far Away
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From A Galaxy Far Away
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The calculated wire resistance, what I refer to as the theoretical (target). The practical. The book spec for the wire length…
Good luck.
Steam Engine!
From A Galaxy Far Away
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I'd use the one's I have. The Kanger's are fine. You might try the grommet/pin's from LV. They will make a diff if you're experiencing coil skew or compression. Some people's winding style introduces more or irregular tension. I do at times because of hand control. The firmer set helps consistency.
I wish I had had the 2mm slots for some time. But I thin the 3rd party I just received is 2mm and 2.2mm PT3. I will be doing buildouts on these in time and maybe publishing these to the tables.
Then I may look at some interesting changes to the Protank.
What I'd like to see more is a few folks posting their results as I suggested earlier in the thread with three confirmed builds and photo at a resistance target that's near wire spec. This would be helpful to others and particularly those building with something other than ceramic wick as I have. I've done so because it's easily replaceable. And the resistance results interchangeable.
So guys pick your favorite wind and have a go. Let's make you notably famous!
Good luck Maz.
I am not experiencing coil skew, but compression yeah possibly. although it might be the aerotank v1 base too, or a combination of factors even. Mac do you know a site that carries the the v2, v3 and mini pt bases ?
If i were to order both pins and grommets, i might just as well order the whole unit, works out cheaper ! i have a ton of pins ( including pt3 pins ), what's the advantage of the LV pins ?
crg, i don't remember where i ordered the 2.0 mm slot pt2's. Before i rebuilt, i ordered from many places, genuine kanger, fasttech and other after markets, 4 of them just happened to accommodate a 2mm screwdriver.
Sent you PM. Just understood you don't have a rec of the 2mm. I've likewise run into over-sized. Shame.
I definitely would sample the pins and have some on hand. There are some assy heads that are slightly off sized and grommet fits loose. You don't want to scrap your build in this situation. The LV pin is slightly over-sized on purpose and the material superior to the stock (PT2) pin as smoother. So it's an easier push in even as tighter.
I'm mostly building on LV's cores lately. We'll see the quality of the PT3 heads and decide whether to use those for dual coil tests. I try to stay stock for that. But you experienced builders here would benefit from the tighter spec particularly for termination.
Good luck maz.
Hey folks, I'm still banging on this trying to get my aerotanks working better. Rather than just take another blind swing I thought it might help to put out a request for suggestions. I am limited to what I have on hand now, but if getting a good build requires buying some new stuff so be it.
I am working with 28 gauge kanthal A1 right now. I have precision screw drivers at 1.4, 1.5, 2.0, 2.4, and 2.5 mm. Also have drill bits at 1/16 and 3/32. My tanks are aerotank's, so I need to use the bdc style heads. I have a few of the v1 bdc housings that I have been rebuilding - had zero luck pulling the v2 bdc's apart, but I still have a couple of those around and could try to pull them apart again. Stem breaks on me every time I try. The only wicking material I have right now is cotton bacon, and a small bit of rayon that my local B&M tossed into my bag on my last purchase.I think that's about it - that's what I have to work with at this point aside from the obvious bits (pliers, butane torch, wire clippers, ohm reader, etc).
These are the parameters I used for my last build:
Wire: 28 gauge A1 Kanthal from Lightning Vapes
Wick: Cotton Bacon by Wick N' Vape
Tank: Aerotank v2, 2.5ml w/ v3 airflow base
Head: Aerotank/PT3 BDC v1
Mandrel: 1.4 mm screwdriver
Coils: single
Wraps: 10 (I think - I am terrible at remember if I don't write it down at the time)
Resistance: 1.5 ohms
In addition to threading cotton into the coil I also laid a small piece over the top of the coil to help prevent flooding. This build is working, but it's kind of miserable. I am firing the atomizers on an mvp 2.0 and a spinner II. I also have a hana clone I can use to go up to 30 watts, but last time I cooked a wick on the aerotank hitting it with higher wattage on the dna 30 device.
Flavor wise it's not terrible, but I get a lot more flavor from my Taifun. That's to be expected somewhat I suppose. Flavor is not the biggest issue though. The main thing I would like to improve is vapor production. I would say it is performing at or around where a factory coil performs. I have had factory coils work much better than this in fact - some not quite as good. But generally speaking I know I'm doing something wrong here - there must be a lot of room for improvement.
Long post sorry. So do you guys have any suggestions for builds that work well with 28 gauge on the bdc v1's? I was thinking my next try would be to see if a 2mm would work size wise, and try to lose the flavor wick. I also considered going to a dual coil, but I think I need 30 gauge at least for that.
TIA guys. If this doesn't work out I'm probably just going to stick to the rebuildables cause this is about 10x the headache of a Taifun, and seeing as clones of those guys are cheaper then AT's, well - the math works out. But for the sake of getting some use out of my current gear, and MORE for the sake of nailing these builds I would really like to see this come together.
I am working with 28 gauge kanthal A1 right now. I have precision screw drivers at 1.4, 1.5, 2.0, 2.4, and 2.5 mm. Also have drill bits at 1/16 and 3/32. My tanks are aerotank's, so I need to use the bdc style heads. I have a few of the v1 bdc housings that I have been rebuilding - had zero luck pulling the v2 bdc's apart, but I still have a couple of those around and could try to pull them apart again. Stem breaks on me every time I try. The only wicking material I have right now is cotton bacon, and a small bit of rayon that my local B&M tossed into my bag on my last purchase.I think that's about it - that's what I have to work with at this point aside from the obvious bits (pliers, butane torch, wire clippers, ohm reader, etc).
These are the parameters I used for my last build:
Wire: 28 gauge A1 Kanthal from Lightning Vapes
Wick: Cotton Bacon by Wick N' Vape
Tank: Aerotank v2, 2.5ml w/ v3 airflow base
Head: Aerotank/PT3 BDC v1
Mandrel: 1.4 mm screwdriver
Coils: single
Wraps: 10 (I think - I am terrible at remember if I don't write it down at the time)
Resistance: 1.5 ohms
In addition to threading cotton into the coil I also laid a small piece over the top of the coil to help prevent flooding. This build is working, but it's kind of miserable. I am firing the atomizers on an mvp 2.0 and a spinner II. I also have a hana clone I can use to go up to 30 watts, but last time I cooked a wick on the aerotank hitting it with higher wattage on the dna 30 device.
Flavor wise it's not terrible, but I get a lot more flavor from my Taifun. That's to be expected somewhat I suppose. Flavor is not the biggest issue though. The main thing I would like to improve is vapor production. I would say it is performing at or around where a factory coil performs. I have had factory coils work much better than this in fact - some not quite as good. But generally speaking I know I'm doing something wrong here - there must be a lot of room for improvement.
Long post sorry. So do you guys have any suggestions for builds that work well with 28 gauge on the bdc v1's? I was thinking my next try would be to see if a 2mm would work size wise, and try to lose the flavor wick. I also considered going to a dual coil, but I think I need 30 gauge at least for that.
TIA guys. If this doesn't work out I'm probably just going to stick to the rebuildables cause this is about 10x the headache of a Taifun, and seeing as clones of those guys are cheaper then AT's, well - the math works out. But for the sake of getting some use out of my current gear, and MORE for the sake of nailing these builds I would really like to see this come together.
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Coil skew, centering, separated winds, shorts, opens etc have become much less of a burden these days with the advent of the passthru charging system. Most of my issues have been brought about by that dreaded grommets' inability to hold the coil set in place when removing and reinstalling the clearo for battery charging purposes.
As a general rule I never remove the base of the bcc clearo from the battery to refill the tank. Just unscrew the tank portion. Now with passthru charging I am only having to remove the base for wick changes.
Life is good.
cig
As a general rule I never remove the base of the bcc clearo from the battery to refill the tank. Just unscrew the tank portion. Now with passthru charging I am only having to remove the base for wick changes.
Life is good.
cigJust a couple of quick observations :
- You can use the the bdc v1 as a single coil without the flavor wick, using cigatrons wick tuck method. I have and with a little practice and trial and error in getting the right density wick, vapor production is outstanding. He can explain it a lot better than me !
- A 2.0 mm screwdriver will fit in the slot of the bdc v1 coil.
- I like to get my builds close to the 2.0 ohm range and with 28g kanthal, it's a tight fit but definitely doable, although you are increasing the chances of a short. 12 wraps around a 2.0 mm screwdriver should get you around 1.8 1.9 ohms. 29g and 30g are better options for the pt. I like 9 or 10 wraps of 29 personally, but some prefer 30g.
- Butane torch is not needed if you tension wrap properly. I believe Mac and cig actually think it's detrimental.
Mac could help you a lot more, and when he has time, i am sure he will !
Hey Mazinny - thanks a lot for taking the time to share your observations. Really appreciated! On my first couple of AT builds I took a tuck/wrap approach. It worked well initially, but I had two latter attempts fail miserably because of flooding in one case and poor wicking in another. I'll do some searching to see what cigatron was doing with the wrap, and may try this again. With the 2mm I may not need this though. Will need some trial and error to see what works.
Re: torching - I wasn't doing this at first. I actually only just got the torch and used it for this last build, and it definitely helped to work out some of the play my hand wrap was leaving there. I did catch a couple of posts on this thread discussing the cons of torching and compression if you already have a well wrapped tight coil. I am using this approach sparingly to make up for small gaps my current hand wrap skills are leaving.
Thanks again for the reply. This gives me some confirmation that a 2mm coil and higher ohms isn't completely a blind swing. I may also put an order in for some 30 gauge so I have an option of trying the dual coil. But really I would much rather get this working with a single coil so that future builds are easier. If getting good vapor production relies on it though it's not the worst thing in the world.
Wish I had more time. Hope this is helpful. Adjust as needed for 28AWG.
Interpreting steam-engine.org results...
Let us know how you make out or drop back in.
Good luck.
Found on pg. 135 of this thread. It's a four part post with pics.
Works for any kanger style heads with exposed wicks.
cig
Works for any kanger style heads with exposed wicks.
cig
As I said in the Title, these are my opinions!
First, if you are looking at the possibility of spending money if needed, go back to single coil attys! I will put my PT2 single coil builds up against any dual coil setup that Kanger or some others can do. This includes flavor or vapor production.
Second, in my opinion 28 gauge is overkill, to get decent flavor you really don't need more than 30 gauge in a Kanger (my opinion) I've tried them all. Build yourself 1.5 to 2.0 ohm t.m.c. on a #50 = .070 bit or tool and you will find satisfaction. Always remember Steam Engine and figure in overall leg length in your calculations. Thanks to Mac, I found out it makes a huge difference.
As far as wicking, on my PT2 builds CCR works great. It is not the solution for every build though. It does have it's flaws. If you would like to play more with rayon, PM me your address and I'll send you some.
I've tried dual coil builds with Kanger products. Honestly, I gave them away. I actually get more consistent quality out of my singles and they are simple to do.
The thing is sometimes you need to work with what you have and that is why some of my friends here will disagree. I will never hold that against them. We all work to get the best out of what we have, plain and simple.
Mac is an excellent source of information, he has worked far more than I, regarding correct builds of coils, wicking properties and much more. He is a person that you can trust and I've learned a lot from him. The final choices are your own! What works best for you, everything is subjective.
Vape On My Friends!
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My pages for this thread only go to 49. What post number is it?
Found on pg. 135 of this thread. It's a four part post with pics.
Works for any kanger style heads with exposed wicks.
Wish I had more time. Hope this is helpful. Adjust as needed for 28AWG.
Interpreting steam-engine.org results...
Let us know how you make out or drop back in.
Good luck.
Actually this was really helpful. I have never used steam-engine before. It's an awesome tool. Thank you.
Found on pg. 135 of this thread. It's a four part post with pics.
Works for any kanger style heads with exposed wicks.
Hi Cig - nice to meet you. Thanks for the pointer. I'm still trying to figure out exactly what you're doing there, but I think I get the principle. It seems less is more in your experience, so use less wick positioned in such a way that it prevents flooding. I will refer back to your photos when I'm doing the rebuild.
Thanks a lot guys.
Hey chanelvaps - this should get you there:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nk-microcoil-discussion-135.html#post13333871
CRG, your reply was great - thanks a lot. CCR = cellucotton rayon, right? I don't know what brand I have, but I'm sure it's good enough for some messing around. Regarding PT2 and single coils - this crossed my mind more than once. I am only building a single now, but using the bdc head, hence a much larger window to worry about covering. I am sure developing good technique will result in a decent single coil build in this config since I see others here are pulling it off.
That said it does seem that the original PT heads for PT1/2 that are meant to run a single coil would be a lot easier. Although it wouldn't work in my two AT's I do have a PT1 that's been sitting around doing nothing for a while. I could buy a head or two for this and try it out. Only a couple bucks to see how I like building the PT1/2 heads. If the juice is worth the squeeze I can always buy a PT2.
Thanks again for the reply. All the help from you PT pros is a huge help!
That said it does seem that the original PT heads for PT1/2 that are meant to run a single coil would be a lot easier. Although it wouldn't work in my two AT's I do have a PT1 that's been sitting around doing nothing for a while. I could buy a head or two for this and try it out. Only a couple bucks to see how I like building the PT1/2 heads. If the juice is worth the squeeze I can always buy a PT2.
Thanks again for the reply. All the help from you PT pros is a huge help!
You are always welcome here with any questions you may have! I have never found anyone here that isn't willing to help.
CelluCotton os more of a brand name than anything else, if you look up Sally Beauty Supply it will be listed as Cellucotton. That is where I purchased mine, 500ft for about $12.00 picked up in person no shipping. I have 500ft and that is why I offered.
We here in this thread can show you, teach you how to build a super, efficient and economical coil. Single coil, dual coil and all the basics. How you choose to run with the knowledge you gain is up to you. We teach the basics, a base for you to build on, the rest is up to you. Possibility's are endless once you grasp the basics.
Vape On My Friends!
I'm really enjoying the team effort here on this thread. Always have. Everyone is welcome and everyone has a contribution to make whether they know it yet or not.
Keep up the great work.
Chime in you lurkers. We know you're out there!
cig
Keep up the great work.
Chime in you lurkers. We know you're out there!
cig
I'm with you CRG. I use this:TOOL DIAMETER: #50 .0700"1.78MM Suncoast Part with 30 gauge and have built some awesome coils.
I have noticed some marked improvement since I got the Pin Vise (thanks Mac) because you turn it rather than wind the coil. Much better tension.
I am going to stop removing my whole base and just unscrew at the base to refill and see if that helps with this pesky problem of a coil that worked fine when I unscrewed it and then will not work when I put it back on.
I have noticed some marked improvement since I got the Pin Vise (thanks Mac) because you turn it rather than wind the coil. Much better tension.
I am going to stop removing my whole base and just unscrew at the base to refill and see if that helps with this pesky problem of a coil that worked fine when I unscrewed it and then will not work when I put it back on.
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