Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

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MacTechVpr

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Holy crap Mac... Now I gotta break out a pt2 and give that build a try heh heh. :)

Merry Christmas to all :)
(...and for all the Atheists, have yourselves an ordinary Thursday, and take the day off courtesy of JC)

LOL, you funny. No such thing as an atheist foggy only a believer in denial. To question is reason and the path to all understanding including faith. But the opposite of faith is nihilism, illusion and pointlessness.


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Just want to take a moment to mention my acknowledgment to MattyB1503 for his original dual coil twisted center concept which I adapted to a t.m.c. Not only has it benefitted from matty's observation of reduced voltage drop but the efficiencies gained by adhesion to uniform oxidation and symmetry. It is by far the cleanest concept I've ever done. If you advance search twisted center post you should find some of the posts on it.

I'm running this on the Aero Mega and it's not the best performer. Best density and flavor I've yet gotten at 22.5W but it's a leaky mod at that power level. You can't chain it hard too long. The CANA 50 I'm running it on goes into hot mode long before the tank heats up but a heck of a lot of fluid in the threads and no doubt dripping from the wind into the base if you get there. It ran far better and dryer on a standard Aero with much of the great texture and taste of the Mega. I don't think this wind at 18-turns is practical or that beneficial on a Kanger as the resistance target can easily be hit with straight wire. But it is rock solid stability with this termination. And Nextel just explodes with this kind of power delivery as I've seen on other devices driven to 60W+. Take long extremely rich and delightful pulls on this one (4-6 sec). I alternate this with an 8-turn 2.5mm straight 24 AWG single KGD t.m.c. running on a Trident/M16. for the quick fire on the same tobacco blend. It's definitely worth experiencing if you have the patience to get this to a coherent micro as in this pic...


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All I ask is please do give me credit for this concept and link back to me somewhere. It helps me bring attention to the advantages of tensioned micro's, to encourage proper electrical winds and the lifestyle.

I run into peeps every day claiming to be winding super_x's contribution of the micro or my tensioned adaptation and doing everything but. No way folks ever gonna learn if they don't come back to you or the source for the data. The downside is too many of us never get there. So there is a purpose behind my contribution and sharing…that we all keep the ball rollin'.

Thank you all for sharing.

Happy Holidays.


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cigatron

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So I got the free replacement piece of rxw slim from Jeremy at RBA Supply and have been putting it thru the paces in my MPT2 for a week now. It works great in this device up to 11watts, 50/50 blend in a 1/16" 30awg 9/8 and keeps up with my vapor/flavor expectations. Washed/dryburned twice now, not because it needed it (clean juice), but because I wanted to expediate the breakin process. Keeps getting better by the minute. Approved!!!!

There was def something wrong with my first piece. It's behaviour was totally different.

Running the 3mm variety in my dripper. Liking it too.

:)cig
 
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AquaLung22

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I gotta try that stuff (Nextel/Ready Wick)!! Maybe an excuse to get myself another Xmas/2-year Vape Anniversary gift heh.
.. I've been using mainly KGD cotton pads for the past few months. But I dug out my box of Sally's Rayon/Cellucotton last night and re-wicked my Billow tank - man the flavor is REALLY popping with this rayon, better flavor and same clouds as most of my dripper's.

I was thinking of getting a Subtank and/or Atlantis for my new IPV3, but this Billow Tank reallllyy kicks some serious .... Sorry for getting more off-topic, but I wanted to throw that out there. ;)
I'm going to try and rebuild an old kanger coil (or maybe 1 of the new-dual versions, with wick inside - if possible) tonight or tomorrow. I'll try to post a pic or 2
 
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Danrogers

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That's really a perfect wind result. I like that 5 O'clock 7 orientation 'cause it's about the maximum amount of contact you can maintain even if you send the lead to the opposite side of the grommet. In other words, you create the coil in the state it's going to be installed. No disruption. So as I dewind the last turn, I tweeze it out to end up about where you did. If you miss and end up 9-9, no biggie. It will end up there when you tension the leads.

If you pinch together the resulting wire ends with your fingertips you can send them easily via the bottom of the slot (shortest distance to the cup base) and there will likely not be any end turn change in adhesion. The legs will just spring back.

The leads here end up pointing to their respective best termination location. Kinda what I've been talking about that the build will point the way, euphemistically and in reality.

Thanks for that graphic demonstration cig.

Good luck.

:)

Hey guys, told you I was rereading everything again, I have been thinking a lot about how the legs exit from the bottom so you don't pull either end of the coil apart. My thought was to bend each leg in the direction it wanted to go to as if make another wrap on either end. But my question is are you preseting the angle before you insert the coil in the well? Cig, you said also that you are coming in from the bottom and putting the coil back on the mandrel to finish with the insulator and pin. Have I understood what the two of you were discussing. I know I'm not using the right lingo so please excuse.
 
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MacTechVpr

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Hey guys, told you I was rereading everything again, I have been thinking a lot about how the legs exit from the bottom so you don't pull either end of the coil apart. My thought was to bend each leg in the direction it wanted to go to as if make another wrap on either end. But my question is are you preseting the angle before you insert the coil in the well? Cig, you said also that you are coming in from the bottom and putting the coil back on the mandrel to finish with the insulator and pin. Have I understood what the two of you were discussing. I know I'm not using the right lingo so please excuse.


Tried to sum it up here How long are the lady's legs??? and here Building a tiger Protank coil but the answer is, yes. I shoot to finish up the wind with the legs continuing to wrap around and pointing in opposite directions at 45-60 degrees. Doesn't have to be exact.

Good luck Dan.

Happy Holidays all!



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Danrogers

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Thanks Mac, I reread both again slowly, I understand the general idea, but as I said I had been thinking along this line mostly because of your instruction to others with regards to shorts etc. I like the idea of finishing the build with the legs pointing in the opposite directions, makes perfect sense. Everything in balance.

Happy Holidays to you as well.
 

MacTechVpr

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Thanks Mac, I reread both again slowly, I understand the general idea, but as I said I had been thinking along this line mostly because of your instruction to others with regards to shorts etc. I like the idea of finishing the build with the legs pointing in the opposite directions, makes perfect sense. Everything in balance.

Happy Holidays to you as well.

It does make sense. By increasing the lead length slightly you lessen the impact at the coil of changing the bias angle of deflection around the bit, either pulling or pushing in on the wind. Skew (increase of the bias) or accordioning can result which will destroy adhesion and you lose the potential efficiency derived from it. So it can go awful hot on you as you change stress to the leads removing or reinstalling the tank and there goes your vape. So we need to treat the lady kindly, yes. Keep her legs…I'll shut up now while I'm ahead.

(And I haven't even started with the eggnog.)

Happy Holidays all!


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cigatron

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Hey guys, told you I was rereading everything again, I have been thinking a lot about how the legs exit from the bottom so you don't pull either end of the coil apart. My thought was to bend each leg in the direction it wanted to go to as if make another wrap on either end. But my question is are you preseting the angle before you insert the coil in the well? Cig, you said also that you are coming in from the bottom and putting the coil back on the mandrel to finish with the insulator and pin.Have I understood what the two of you were discussing. I know I'm not using the right lingo so please excuse.

Sure, if you're coil is short enough, like a 9/8 30awg wind, it will fit up through the bottom of the head; then you slide the mandrel in. Keeps you from having to pinch the legs together to install the coil from the top. I don't like to place the coil/legs under ANY undue stress when building and do not use the "crossed leg" approach. My legs come straight down off the side of the coil to the insulator. I have built hundreds this way and it works every time for me. I honestly can't remember the last time I had to ditch a build on a kanger.
 

cocacola31173

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YAY for me! I just accomplished my first working and beautiful Protank build! I have tried before but never could get it to work.

Then I got one of those coiling jigs and used the next smallest rod that it came with. I love this thing! I have been building coils on my Kayfun for a while now but that jig just makes it so much easier.

I did a 5 wrap micro coils with cotton and so far its working great! Im glad I saved all my used heads cause I probably have a lifetime supply now.
 

MacTechVpr

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YAY for me! I just accomplished my first working and beautiful Protank build! I have tried before but never could get it to work.

Then I got one of those coiling jigs and used the next smallest rod that it came with. I love this thing! I have been building coils on my Kayfun for a while now but that jig just makes it so much easier.

I did a 5 wrap micro coils with cotton and so far its working great! Im glad I saved all my used heads cause I probably have a lifetime supply now.

Welcome to the club cc and Happy Holidays.

Enjoy the vape!



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MacTechVpr

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Guys First of all Merry Christmas to all of you!
Ive been build protank coil 2 , sonce last week . Using 30g kanthal and 1.5 ohm , organic cotton , but why always my protank leaking and gurgling . Did i do wrong ? Or my tank are broken? Thanks

Good morning ff and Merry Christmas. No biggie. The story is that 510 connection devices leak. May be nothing more than that. Don't know what your skill level is but keep the 510 on the battery side dry if you're PT is leaking, first, or you'll just suffer. I gather you're using the standard base and it's going right through. Your coil may not necessarily shorting or misbehaving although often the culprit. First thing to suspect is your wicking density may be too thick or thin. You need to fill up the slot right up to the chimney grommet. If there's even a slight opening when it's dry, that hole will be wet as cotton settles in, either above or below the coil. So yeah, first look at the mechanical fit first. No leaking into the assembly through any small opening. Then make sure everything's dry. Then you might try rewicking. Which is it more likely to be, too tight or too loose? Give it a try in the opposite direction.

A picture when you're done will help us know a bit better where you're at so we can take it from there.

Good luck and have a happy!


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fogging_katrider

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Guys First of all Merry Christmas to all of you!
I have been build protank coil 2 , since last week . Using 30g kanthal and 1.5 ohm , organic cotton .
but why always my protank leaking and gurgling . Did i do wrong ? Or is my tank broken? Thanks

I'm going to keep this short since it's Christmas time and I'm not ready to write a book on it, but the short answer is YES your stock protank IS broken. If it has the 510 base it came with it WILL always suffer with flooding and gurgling because of it's GIANT design flaw. That flaw is even worse now that Kanger uses the softer silicone center pin insulator grommet.

Quite frankly, I am almost shocked now that Mac overlooked mentioning it, but anyway he's more technician brain locked on the science of coil builds and this being Christmas we can let this slide...THIS TIME heh heh
:)

Good news Freedomfighter, is that this design flaw disease CAN be completely CURED.

STEP #1 ...
First thing, get yourself an aerotank base. I suggest the v3 version. The v2 and v3 are all stainless steel construction and are a major improvement over the v1 which is made out of chromed brass. All the aerotank bases fit all of the protanks made prior to Kangers aerotank. IOW, they'll fit the protank 1, protank 2 and the protank 3. All three of which suffered from the curse of the kanger 510 base which IS the number one reason they all flood and gurgle.

STEP #2...
Take the original base off of your protank and walk outside and throw it as far as you can into the field across the street. heh heh or just drop it in the trash can since you'll not be needing it any longer.
Trust me on this...throw that p.o.s. base away...it's garbage.

STEP #3...
Screw your best cotton wicked coil build, following Macs excellent coil building advice into your new aerotank base and attach it to your pre-filled protank. Making sure that you've moistened that cotton wick first of course.

Step #4...
Enjoy your protank, it should now be completely cured of the curse of the kanger 510 airflow design flaw and now you have the best chance of not having any flooding or gurgling troubles. You should now be able to vape the tank from full to almost bone dry without ever suffering a flood or gurgle.

A side benefit, any slight seepage from the coil center pin will now be captured in the aero base instead of dripping down onto your mods 510 connector pin.



This site has all three versions of the aerotank air control valve (replacement base) v1, v2 and v3 but they're currently out of stock. I suggest the v3 base as it's the best one imho. Its adjustment stays where it set vs the other two versions.
Kanger Air Flow control Valve Base Replacements

V2 aerotank base in stock super cheap $3.50
Kanger Upgraded Stainless Steel Original Aerotank Base.

hth and Merry Christmas
 
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