protank....not impressed....yet.
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I suggest a roll of 32 and a roll of 30 so you can experiment with more versus fewer wraps and microcoils to see what you like best with the juices you use while still allowing resistances to stay within a reasonable range. Also, unless you are still in your 20's, get a hands free magnifier of some type. Everything looks so darned tiny once your eyesight, um, matures lol. I can barely see any of the important details of what I'm building without a good magnifier.
I fully agree that the stock coil and wick are very poor quality vs a good rebuild. I have three Protanks and they all perform better then every carto, clearomizer and every other bcc I have tried, and I have tried just about everything sold on the market. The Puritank is almost as good as a Protank with the same atomizer build but I think the further distance between the atomizer and the drip tip then the Puritank there is something lost. To get rid of the metal taste when tank is new I rinse all parts in warm water then soak all of the Puritank parts except the atomizer head into a mix of 50/50 water and vinegar mix for 3-4 hours. Then rinse all parts under warm water until the vinegar smell is gone.
The best coil build I have done/found to be so far is using a 4/40 machine screw with 32ga A-1 Kanthal at 2.4 ohms. After winding the coil compress the coil so all the coils are touching each other or a hair apart. For the wick I use Peaches and Cream brand 100% cotton (purchased at Walmart). The cotton is boiled for approx. 2 hours with the water replaced every 1/2 hour. I double over the cotton and twist through the coil, which will compress the coil further so all the coils are lightly touching. This above described coil and wick is magnitudes better then the stock coil and wick and costs about 3 cents a piece to make/rebuild. The cool thing is that the above described coil and wick build comes out the same way every time, no guessing. Hits like a freight train on my Vamo 2 at 8.5 to 9 watts. No flavor wicks used and no leaking with juices that are as thin as 60pg/40vg, I have not tried thinner juices. Never have had a dry hit. Vapor is very dense. Flavor is off the hook, as good as most RDAs I have tried that are owned by other people. As time passes (wick soaking in juice) and with use the taste becomes more intense also.
Hope this helps someone.
The best coil build I have done/found to be so far is using a 4/40 machine screw with 32ga A-1 Kanthal at 2.4 ohms. After winding the coil compress the coil so all the coils are touching each other or a hair apart. For the wick I use Peaches and Cream brand 100% cotton (purchased at Walmart). The cotton is boiled for approx. 2 hours with the water replaced every 1/2 hour. I double over the cotton and twist through the coil, which will compress the coil further so all the coils are lightly touching. This above described coil and wick is magnitudes better then the stock coil and wick and costs about 3 cents a piece to make/rebuild. The cool thing is that the above described coil and wick build comes out the same way every time, no guessing. Hits like a freight train on my Vamo 2 at 8.5 to 9 watts. No flavor wicks used and no leaking with juices that are as thin as 60pg/40vg, I have not tried thinner juices. Never have had a dry hit. Vapor is very dense. Flavor is off the hook, as good as most RDAs I have tried that are owned by other people. As time passes (wick soaking in juice) and with use the taste becomes more intense also.
Hope this helps someone.
I got in a co op for Protank heads and it ended up being the 3 month what the hell is going on thing so I started using it less because I wanted my head to last. I loaded it with a e juice I only like occasionally and hadnt been using very much at all. Did finally get my supply of heads. I'd been vaping a Provari dripping quite a bit yesterday and decided to grap the Protank on my Vamo while I was texting on this forum. Took a hit and and got so surprised at the loud noise I jerked and quit drawing immediately in shock. Made me laugh but geeze! Noisey. It quiets down after the initial getting going. That and the airy draw have been the only complaints which I fixed the draw and like I said, it quiets down. Still never silent like but you know.
My eVic sees my first PT heads as 2.6Ω, and gives them about 4.6 volts for the 8 watts I run it at. That's perfect for my 50/50 24 mg DIY juice I draw for 4-6 seconds at a time. I typically give it around 15 seconds or longer to recover. If I hit it sooner, the flavor is a bit weak. I've had zero problems with my unmodified ProTanks or Mini ProTanks (1.8Ω heads on an eGo). No dry hits, no flooding/gurgling, no leaking--just good vapor, TH, and flavor.
I wasn't too crazy about my Protank when I first got it - but after using it for a while and rebuilding it several times it's become my favorite clearo. It's easier for me to rebuild than the vivi novas . .I'm not really sure why but I just get better results on the PT.
My PT rolled off a table and onto a concrete floor. At first I was relieved that the glass didn't break . . but then I realized that the 510 connector took the brunt of the fall and my PT is permanently shorted. Oh well . .just ordered 2 more and a mini!
My PT rolled off a table and onto a concrete floor. At first I was relieved that the glass didn't break . . but then I realized that the 510 connector took the brunt of the fall and my PT is permanently shorted. Oh well . .just ordered 2 more and a mini!
I'm much happier today. Can about 1.5 tanks through it and it seems to be getting better. Apparently there IS a break in period on some heads.
it depends on the kind of coil you want. to do one similar to factory, 32ga, but I by FAR prefer doing microcoils and cotton wicks. 30 is pretty easy to work with in the tight space, but I prefer 28ga, though it is a bit tougher. I use this on both mechanical and VV/VW mods, so I try to get in the 1.2-1.4 range (most regulated devices won't fire below 1.2)
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