"Re-assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly."The manual also doesn't seem to address how to turn it back ON.
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I woke up with all kinds of get up and go so I made it happen.
Yes, on the XPV you can turn the temperature protection OFF and then back ON gain.
All dna 40D functions are available on the XPV. But I already knew that.
Yes, on the XPV you can turn the temperature protection OFF and then back ON gain.
All dna 40D functions are available on the XPV. But I already knew that.
Yes!
I've turned it off and then back on with my xpv 40. Same procedure (OFF or back on to a given temp) to get to the TC screen and then a flip of the dial/rocker.
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I just placed an order ... looks like lead times are a bit better than earlier this year (people were waiting about 6-8 weeks?!) ... can't wait to try out this whole temperature controlled thingamajig! Nickel wire on the way, my Kayfuns are almost as excited as I am.
The first 24 hours have been pretty interesting.
Set up a 10-wrap 30 gauge coil on a 2.64 mm rod in a Rose clone. I was shooting for 0.2 ohms, and it's reading 0.22 on the DNA (0.25 on my ohm reader, which.has been consistently reading 0.03 ohms HIGH, so I should be around 0.22 ohms). Wicked it with cotton.
I spent the better part of the day experimenting with different combinations of power and temperature.
As best I could tell (from trying to watch the display in a mirror while vaping - don't laugh!) that with temperature settings under 400 degrees, during vaping the power will cut back to under 9-10 watts after a second or two of vaping and it was not very satisfying, and it seemed to hit "TEMPERATURE LIMIT" rather quickly.
With the juice control open about a turn and a half, the temperature set at 430F, and the power at 16, it's really very nice. Steady state the power will cut back to around 12 watts, but initial flavor hit is very nice, and provides a nice, satisfying vape.
Next up I'll try the Kayfun and see what happens.
Set up a 10-wrap 30 gauge coil on a 2.64 mm rod in a Rose clone. I was shooting for 0.2 ohms, and it's reading 0.22 on the DNA (0.25 on my ohm reader, which.has been consistently reading 0.03 ohms HIGH, so I should be around 0.22 ohms). Wicked it with cotton.
I spent the better part of the day experimenting with different combinations of power and temperature.
As best I could tell (from trying to watch the display in a mirror while vaping - don't laugh!) that with temperature settings under 400 degrees, during vaping the power will cut back to under 9-10 watts after a second or two of vaping and it was not very satisfying, and it seemed to hit "TEMPERATURE LIMIT" rather quickly.
With the juice control open about a turn and a half, the temperature set at 430F, and the power at 16, it's really very nice. Steady state the power will cut back to around 12 watts, but initial flavor hit is very nice, and provides a nice, satisfying vape.
Next up I'll try the Kayfun and see what happens.
Just read through the last couple pages and ouch guys don't pay $120 for an upgrade from 30 to 40, I broke my DNA30 screen and sent it in for repairs and since Evolv fixes DNA screens for free they were going to fix it for free, so i had them put in a DNA40 instead, for just the cost of the board 
. Also get the 510 upgrade since i got my mod in July or August and they resolved a couple other issues I had free of charge (I've been doing factory work and taking my XPV with it has lived a hard life). Extremely excited to get to play with the new temperature control and figure out this nickel wire stuff since I got the sample pack from Protovapor, although now I don't see it listed on their website, has anyone worked with 28 gauge Ni200? It would seem like a daunting task to get it to a working resistance. Does anyone know the diameter of the little screwdrivers they send with rebuildables from china? Preferably the ones with the plastic handles as thats what I have always used in my kayfuns for wrapping coils, I know I got one with my first Fogger but i don't have any calipers on hand to figure it out for plugging in to a resistance calculator.
. Also get the 510 upgrade since i got my mod in July or August and they resolved a couple other issues I had free of charge (I've been doing factory work and taking my XPV with it has lived a hard life). Extremely excited to get to play with the new temperature control and figure out this nickel wire stuff since I got the sample pack from Protovapor, although now I don't see it listed on their website, has anyone worked with 28 gauge Ni200? It would seem like a daunting task to get it to a working resistance. Does anyone know the diameter of the little screwdrivers they send with rebuildables from china? Preferably the ones with the plastic handles as thats what I have always used in my kayfuns for wrapping coils, I know I got one with my first Fogger but i don't have any calipers on hand to figure it out for plugging in to a resistance calculator.
$120.00 for the upgrade is still cheaper than paying $194.00 for a new one.plus you get your DNA30 board back to sell off to re-coupe some of the $120.00 charge anyway??
I decided against sending mine in for an upgrade to the DNA40 after having the weekend to think about it before the new DNA40 hit on Monday.I would rather have a new device to set along side my XPV DNA30 as a matching set.
I decided against sending mine in for an upgrade to the DNA40 after having the weekend to think about it before the new DNA40 hit on Monday.I would rather have a new device to set along side my XPV DNA30 as a matching set.
I used 28 gauge Ni200 on a 1/8" drill bit. 12 or 13 wraps gave me a 0.2 resistance.
I ordered two XPV 40's two nights ago, One for me and one for my sister in law. I also had sent back my original XPV #066 20w to be revamped. I owned a DNA30 unused so Protovapor will install it along with all new wiring, a new battery, new SS 510, and special case halves so the top cap can stay short, all that for are you ready...$65.99! they didn't even charge me for the battery! I am so impressed with this company they have a loyal fan in me!
My personal experience with the 30 and with Protovapor themselves made my decision to buy a 40 from them a no-brainer.
I can't wait to see what's next!
So I have a Vaporshark rDNA 40 coming and once I get that I'm sending my XPV 30 in to get upgraded. Love my XPV 30 but when I'm going to be away from a charger for a few days, the rDNA comes in handy for swapping batteries out.
You can vape while charging...so if you have a usb/lighter adapter in your car, it should not be an issue.
This would work since charging current must be a minimum of 500maH.
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I've heard of people just using random micro usb chargers(like cell phone chargers) and always wondered if the charge capacity could damage the mod(s)
They say 500maH...of course you should never leave a charging mod unattended...If the charger matches the charging specs and you don't leave it charging without you being nearby, I would think you should be fine....
You could send a quick email to protovapor and they can tell you which car adapter they would prefer you use or show them that one and confirm that it fully meets spec.
The USB charging on the XPV is accomplished by harnessing the battery...so you are directly charging an 18490 battery...the only way you could damage the mod is by leaving the battery to overcharge. Heat is bad for circuit boards, so never overcharge any electrical device....that's just a rule of thumb for rechargeable batteries and electronics.
Using a charger that is out of the spec range is ill-advised...not sure about damage but at a minimum under current would take a age to charge and over-current would tax the battery possibly...Others could weigh in on that as I am not a battery physicist...
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Mine shipped today ... Let the "every 30 second package tracking" routine begin! Can't wait to tinker with this thing ... already have my ni200 wire waiting!
Late Thursday night (10/23) Hawaii time... so basically early Friday. I have a shipping notice but it appears it hasn't been dropped off at the post office yet, just created a label.
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