protovapor xpv

[t8kiteasy]

I got mine fully charged and it lasted a good long time.
Not sure which batt it came with actually, but I did put it on a USB cable to my computer and a few hours brought the batt readout up to what looked like full, but its gone down faster than the first couple of days.

I guess i should have it set up for overnight on a wall -> USB for complete recharge?

edit: as I was writing this post (while taking first vape of the day on my XPV40) the batt readout went up from where it started ! lol so maybe not...

The lite read out next to the USB slot turns green when complete charge.I do not understand why Protovapor stopped using the Sony VTC5's because mine lasts all day long into the next day.I do not notice a quick drop off in battery level just an even drop thru out the day.

 

[snork]

The lite read out next to the USB slot turns green when complete charge.I do not understand why Protovapor stopped using the Sony VTC5's because mine lasts all day long into the next day.I do not notice a quick drop off in battery level just an even drop thru out the day.

As far as I know, and at least when I bought my red one the other day, the VTC5 is still the default available battery. You can't purchase one separately though.

 

[t8kiteasy]

As far as I know, and at least when I bought my red one the other day, the VTC5 is still the default available battery. You can't purchase one separately though.

I thought they posted on the site that the VTC5's were not being offered because they were hard to get ahold of any and changing to another supplier???

 

[ukeman]

Could have been ^ I'm too lazy to check but some vendors are replacing with Samsung 25 baby blue.

And doh, the red light next to usb port ... should have checked for green before saying anything.

I do notice that when set it down then wake it up the batt charge shows lower for a few seconds (firing) then up to what the charge level is.

 

[carbonbegone]

Has anyone replaced the 510 in their 1st gen (20d) XPV with a 3rd party 510? seems $25 is a bit pricey for $5 worth of parts?

I just did this today ..
I'll say this 1st ; 25 bucks + shipping to them is the bargain of the century !

The V3 'shorty' Fat Daddy 510 is very nice, it even has a nifty tab washer to solder to instead of having to attach to the side of the nut.
But ther'es more to it besides just buying a 3rd party 510.
Top of unit is too close for the additional length below the cap of the updated 510. A spacer is needed. Protovapor sells you a thicker pocket clip w / the kit.
I had to fab one out of 1/8 delrin sheet that I happened to have around, transferring the screw hole locations, perimeter & center hole. Then cut all without missing locations.
Tab on washer must be bent down just enough to clear side of the body - get it wrong & the nut won't tighten correctly.
Add in a trip to the hardware store to get 4 longer screws ..
Sure I got it done & all is correct & working great, but given the amount of time involved - I shoulda just sent it in & waited a couple weeks.
Its not like we all don't have multiple backups ..
Having done it - I can tell you that Protovapor is certainly not gouging anyone for the upgrade.
My advise is the same as theirs ; send it in.

 

[Frocket]

Let the stalking of the local postman commence... My XPV should be arriving today.

BOOM!

 

[Frocket]

Omgitshereimsohappy!

BOOM!

 

[Heespharm]

Got my replacement from Protovapor today... So far so good


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Heespharm]

Woohoo I just wanna give a shoutout to protovapor customer service! They do not drop the ball and are very helpful... Feels like I made a deal with a friend rather a business!

Got my replacement unit from them 3days after letting them know the first one was bad...! Now that's customer service!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SeniorBoy]

Thought you guys would enjoy this juice leak pic from my R91. I was performing some wild and useless stress tests in my freezer. What a waste. Turns out the wick got nuked and down in the juice channels. /lol Any way, I'm quite happy with how the top of the XPV40 handles a rather large juice leak. NO juice dribbled down the side of the mod.



Enjoy!

 

[Frocket]

I was so happy to get the XPV, then started trying some nickel builds. Turns out, my wicking on the Erlprinz isn't as good as I thought, cause it's not staying saturated enough to keep the coil cool. Can't really blame the nickel; I can build a pretty coil using it. Tried spaced and contact coils, same deal each time - hits like a champ at first (since the wick's still saturated from the build), then it's temp protection when at low watts.

For now, im back to kanthal, until I can get this wicking business straightened out.

Other than my crappy wicking skills, I am loving this mod. Every time I look at it, I wonder how they fit a VTC5, wiring, board, charging port, 510 and buttons. My Sigelei 100w and IPV2 are going to be collecting dust, I think.

BOOM!

 

[midnight_stray]

yeah my first builds with nickel havn't gone well. I seem to be replacing them more often then kanthal

 

[Frocket]

Got a good nickel build going on now. 20 watts on the Erlprinz @ 440°, no problem with temp protection kicking in. Needs a lot of juice flow to keep up with that wattage, and kicks out some pretty decent vapor.

We'll see how long I can run the current build. I'm using a heavy VG juice that has a strong tendency to gunk up coils. Im hoping that with the temp protection, it'll keep the gunking down a bit.

BOOM!

 

[SheerLuckHolmes]

I want to reset the chip in the XPV. Normally that is easiest by removing or disconnecting the battery. I do not see this as easy with the XPV. Any suggestions or just hold the button until the battery is dead enough to simulate being disconnected?

 

[carbonbegone]

It'll take a long time to completely empty the battery ...
Easiest is to remove 2 screws on the top & 2 on the bottom, just 2 on each end. Slightly loosen the other 2 on each end.
Remove the ones opposite the display if i remember correctly.
Slide the case open enough to disconnect fitting, re connect fitting & you're re-set.
Use a bit of patience & you'll be fine.

 

[Rossum]

On a DNA40, I believe that letting it sit overnight will do a real reset. It appears to power itself down after a long enough period of inactivity, something that the DNA20 and DNA30 did not do.

 

[snork]

Before you get rid of the box, make sure you get the sticker out. I almost didn't.

Coolest vape name ever.

 

[SheerLuckHolmes]

On a DNA40, I believe that letting it sit overnight will do a real reset. It appears to power itself down after a long enough period of inactivity, something that the DNA20 and DNA30 did not do.

Where did you become aware of this? This is a major upgrade from the previous 20's & 30's. I would think it would have been hollered from the roof tops. If true, I do not have to do anything other then let the XPV sit untouched for 8-10 hours. I do not doubt you, but would like to find this in writing somewhere. Any links?

 

[Rossum]

Where did you become aware of this? This is a major upgrade from the previous 20's & 30's. I would think it would have been hollered from the roof tops. If true, I do not have to do anything other then let the XPV sit untouched for 8-10 hours. I do not doubt you, but would like to find this in writing somewhere. Any links?

I'm afraid I don't have proof. I'm speculating this is the case based on the exceedingly low current the board consumes after a long enough period of inactivity, which is the same low single-digit micro-amps as when you power it down by removing and re-installing the battery. Plus there's the way the fire switch is connected to the battery side of the regulator, rather than the atty side of the regulator (where the up/down switches are), and the fact that the board does not power up when you connect a battery until you press the fire switch. This behavior is totally different than the DNA20/30. My theory is that the board powers itself down by shutting off the FET they're using for reverse battery protection and the fire switch serves double duty by turning that FET back on.

Now you're wondering how discovered this. I ordered a retail board from Protovapor on release day, which IIRC was a Tuesday. I paid for express shipping and got it a few days later and built up some new gdeal printed bottom-feeder innards that weekend. I connected a battery and -- nothing! The board wouldn't power up. So I hooked an ammeter in series with the battery and found negligible current consumption until I finally connected an external fire switch (I had already beheaded the on-board one). I also noted that after some period of inactivity, the board went back to consuming virtually no current, but I never actually timed how long it took to do that. I had posted all of this in one of the DNA40 threads, quite possibly the active coop that was in progress at the time.

 

[Bassnorma]

I'm afraid I don't have proof. I'm speculating this is the case based on the exceedingly low current the board consumes after a long enough period of inactivity, which is the same low single-digit micro-amps as when you power it down by removing and re-installing the battery. Plus there's the way the fire switch is connected to the battery side of the regulator, rather than the atty side of the regulator (where the up/down switches are), and the fact that the board does not power up when you connect a battery until you press the fire switch. This behavior is totally different than the DNA20/30. My theory is that the board powers itself down by shutting off the FET they're using for reverse battery protection and the fire switch serves double duty by turning that FET back on.

Now you're wondering how discovered this. I ordered a retail board from Protovapor on release day, which IIRC was a Tuesday. I paid for express shipping and got it a few days later and built up some new gdeal printed bottom-feeder innards that weekend. I connected a battery and -- nothing! The board wouldn't power up. So I hooked an ammeter in series with the battery and found negligible current consumption until I finally connected an external fire switch (I had already beheaded the on-board one). I also noted that after some period of inactivity, the board went back to consuming virtually no current, but I never actually timed how long it took to do that. I had posted all of this in one of the DNA40 threads, quite possibly the active coop that was in progress at the time.

I love the way you think rossum....moreover the inquisitive and scientific nature of your thought process...just sayin' ...hehe

(sent from an alien device which translates English into Klingon without my approval)