Man I don't know if you guys have heard whats been going on with the preorders for the Hana mod but its a mess. I'm on the preorder and its just been terrible. I almost cancelled my Protovapor to get a Hana but i'm glad i didn't because it could be weeks before i get the Hana. The preorder opened on 2/6 (I ordered on 2/9) and so far nobody has received a Hana yet with no end in sight. You guys don't know how good you have it at Protovapor.
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So, I just placed my order for my XVP full size, black on black with a green button. In everyones experience that has bought one of these devices how long did it take them to ship it? I know the site says 30-40 days, I'm just really hoping it doesn't take that long 
And yesterday before I knew i was going to order this mod, I reserved two VTC-5 form the local vape shop here in cleveland. w00t! Has anyone replaced the stock battery with the VTC-5 yet?
And yesterday before I knew i was going to order this mod, I reserved two VTC-5 form the local vape shop here in cleveland. w00t! Has anyone replaced the stock battery with the VTC-5 yet?
hey Rossum, can you post more photos of the guts of the mod? So I can get an idea of whats going on in there? And, I've never soldered on a battery before. I'd say my soldering skills are fair, Not Pro, but relatively good. Is there anything one should know about soldering a battery?
I've never soldered a battery either. My guess is that you'd want to use a reasonably high wattage iron to get it done quickly so as to minimize the amount of heat that actually gets inside the battery.
The only other picture I've got right is one I've previously posted in this thread that shows the 510 connector from the back.
However, I'll be pulling it apart again this weekend to unplug the battery to reset the DNA-20 'cause it's stuck displaying 0.0 ohms again, so if there's anything in particular you want to see, ask before then.
The only other picture I've got right is one I've previously posted in this thread that shows the 510 connector from the back.
However, I'll be pulling it apart again this weekend to unplug the battery to reset the DNA-20 'cause it's stuck displaying 0.0 ohms again, so if there's anything in particular you want to see, ask before then.
When I ordered mine it was a 10-20 day lead time and I got it within that time frame, I haven't heard any complaints about them taking longer than the posted lead time. It is totally worth the wait... especially if you haven't experienced DNA 30 yet. I'm even thinking about ordering a mini for use in the car when I get the extra funds despite the wait time.
I've never soldered a battery either. My guess is that you'd want to use a reasonably high wattage iron to get it done quickly so as to minimize the amount of heat that actually gets inside the battery.
The only other picture I've got right is one I've previously posted in this thread that shows the 510 connector from the back.
However, I'll be pulling it apart again this weekend to unplug the battery to reset the DNA-20 'cause it's stuck displaying 0.0 ohms again, so if there's anything in particular you want to see, ask before then.
Lol! How often has this happened to you with the chip Rossum? Done mine this morning and all sorted for the time being, thanks again. Would you mind if I grabbed your two pictures to show on another forum?
This is the second time.
Depends what you mean by "grab". Make copies of them and host them somewhere else? No. However, you may use them "as is, where is", in other words link/embed them from where they are. And thanks for asking!
Ok cheers, I might well take mine apart again and do a few pics. Looking at the positive connection on the top, and I don`t just mean Protovapor, it really is about time they just had a fixed insulated positive pin and a spade lug connection for the positive and negative terminals. It cannot be that hard to do surely.
Well... Finally got my XPV in the mail and wow is this thing lighter than I expected. It's everything I hoped it would be, I freaking love this thing already and I've only had it for about 10 minutes haha. I'll post a picture once I've had some time to obsessively stare at it
Anybody got any crazy builds going in their DNA 30?
I got a 1.5 mega single coil with 26 gauge kanthal going at 26 watts. Putting out 6. something volts it is a flavorful cloud machine. Anything above 26 watts kills the flavor but turns the mod into a straight fog machine. My neighbors thought my house was on fire from the vapor pouring out of my upstairs window lol.
I got a 1.5 mega single coil with 26 gauge kanthal going at 26 watts. Putting out 6. something volts it is a flavorful cloud machine. Anything above 26 watts kills the flavor but turns the mod into a straight fog machine. My neighbors thought my house was on fire from the vapor pouring out of my upstairs window lol.
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Anyone experience a Device Reset yet while the battery is nearly fully charged? Stock everything, device never opened. I think the coil in my Kayfun might have had a leg come loose, but wouldn't that just display 'Check Atomizer' instead of the screen blank out?
Email them. I had the same issue when I would tighten most toppers. They had a fix for me very quickly.
My R91 build was shorted and caused this same condition on my device. I had juice collected between the posts. Blew out the juice and all went back to normal. I thought it would give an error for a short, but I got the reset condition instead. Maybe since it was juice and not a dead short it caused it to act wonky.
found out what it was. I guess somehow, inside my Kayfun 3.1 clone's deck, the little block that the two screws go into shifted and were touching each other. no idea how that could have happened other than when tightening the screws down the first time, yet it was fine earlier. fixed them up and all is well.
im just wondering, has anyone tried to replace the soldered connections with a little plastic box with contacts so in the future when you have to replace the battery you could just open it up and pop a new one in? if not then i will probably try it when my battery is about to go. man this thing is amazing! it is almost as light as an ego battery so it feels unbalanced when i put something like a taifun or kayfun on it. right now i have a rocket on it as it is one of the lightest rta's i still have in service. makes my 1.4 ohm micro coil shine though
I am getting ready to install a VTC5 in mine Gonna have to get a cheap soldering iron somewhere, been a while since ive had to use one
Gonna have to get a cheap soldering iron somewhere, been a while since ive had to use one 
My 510 connector that was spinning freely, and I "fixed" by remelting the solder on the back side of the topcap, has broken free again...
Solder is simply not a very good way to hold the 510 in place, it is the one part of the mod that takes stress the most, and solder just is not that physically strong when it comes to the pressures / leverage / and angles that a big topper is putting on the flat surface where the solder is bonding.
I am trying to decide what I want to do about this...
I could hit it with a soldering iron again, and temporarily fix it again, but I have a feeling that PV might address this issue with a better 510/top cap at some point...
The idea of a threaded 510 with a nut on the back side is ideal.
I could just epoxy the hell out of it...
So many things are done right in the XPV, it really is unfortunate they simply solder a cheap 510 in the top cap, this mod could be nearly indestructible if it had a better designed 510/top cap.
Solder is simply not a very good way to hold the 510 in place, it is the one part of the mod that takes stress the most, and solder just is not that physically strong when it comes to the pressures / leverage / and angles that a big topper is putting on the flat surface where the solder is bonding.
I am trying to decide what I want to do about this...
I could hit it with a soldering iron again, and temporarily fix it again, but I have a feeling that PV might address this issue with a better 510/top cap at some point...
The idea of a threaded 510 with a nut on the back side is ideal.
I could just epoxy the hell out of it...
So many things are done right in the XPV, it really is unfortunate they simply solder a cheap 510 in the top cap, this mod could be nearly indestructible if it had a better designed 510/top cap.
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Solder is plenty strong to do that job. It sounds to me like the solder isn't bonding properly, either to the connector or the top plate. Since it has failed a second time, just re-flowing it probably isn't the answer. I'd suck up the existing solder, get put some flux on the stuff, and re-solder it.
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