protovapor xpv

[jameth]

Solder is plenty strong to do that job. It sounds to me like the solder isn't bonding properly, either to the connector or the top plate. Since it has failed a second time, just re-flowing it probably isn't the answer. I'd suck up the existing solder, get put some flux on the stuff, and re-solder it.

Solder itself is pretty strong, but when it is the only bonding agent between two flat surfaces at a 90 degree angle, it looses much of its ability to be strong.

Solder when used as "glue" as it is in this instance, does not respond to physical shock force very well. Epoxy would absorb more of the stress and force then solder, solder instead of absorbing that energy, will simply pop off.

Yes, stripping it down all the way, and totally re doing it is what it needs (well it really needs a better design), and that was what I was worried of the first time I went about just re-flowing it, and that is somethign I will probably let Protovapor fix.


I am not feeling particulary excited about stripping it completely, as I feel it would need to have the wires removed from the 510 in order to get the outside of it hot enough to have that large of a blob of solder both removed, and re-applied.

I am fairly certain PV puts that massive glob of solder on the outside of the 510 BEFORE they solder the wires and install the center pin / grommet, otherwise they would almost certainly melt.


Could I do this all myself, sure, but this would be the third fix I have done myself, I want protovapor involved before I end up re building the whole thing myself.

 

[JohnWillyson]

dna 20 or 30?

My 30 had a crap load of solder on it, its solid. Maybe they beefed it up in later batches?

 

[doots]

Solder itself is plenty strong, but when it is the only bonding agent between two flat surfaces at a 90 degree angle, it looses much of its ability to be strong.

Solder when used as "glue" as it is in this instance, does not respond to physical shock force very well. Epoxy would absorb more of the stress and force then solder, solder instead of absorbing that energy, will simply pop off.

Yes, stripping it down all the way, and totally re doing it is what it needs (well it really needs a better design), and that was what I was worried of the first time I went about just re-flowing it, and that is somethign I will probably let Protovapor fix.


I am not feeling particulary excited about stripping it completely, as I feel it would need to have the wires removed from the 510 in order to get the outside of it hot enough to have that large of a blob of solder both removed, and re-applied.

I am fairly certain PV puts that massive glob of solder on the outside of the 510 BEFORE they solder the wires and install the center pin / grommet, otherwise they would almost certainly melt.


Could I do this all myself, sure, but this would be the third fix I have done myself, I want protovapor involved before I end up re building the whole thing myself.

Id probably use epoxy and be done with it. It requires no heat and sets fast/ Then when PV makes a change which needs to happen you could always just have them send you that piece. No need also to unsolder the connection at this point. I have been thinking of doing that too.. This is the weak link in the PV IMHO.

 

[jameth]

dna 20 or 30?

My 30 had a crap load of solder on it, its solid. Maybe they beefed it up in later batches?

It is one of the earlier 20's

They have specifically addressed one of the wire connections that failed on mine in future units, I know that for sure.

I also know that newer units have different o-rings in the 510 then mine has.

I do not know if the mounting of the 510 has changed much or not, mine also has a ton of solder, but the amount isn't what is important, it is how well it is bonding to the two surfaces, which on mine, it is bonded to the 510 just fine, but not to the top cap itself.

 

[jameth]

Id probably use epoxy and be done with it. It requires no heat and sets fast/ Then when PV makes a change which needs to happen you could always just have them send you that piece. No need also to unsolder the connection at this point. I have been thinking of doing that too.. This is the weak link in the PV IMHO.

Pretty much my thoughts exactly, I believe epoxy would be a much better choice then a big blob of solder.

 

[MadOzodi]

I wonder if a Fat Daddy 510 can be swapped in to replace the stock XPV 510...

 

[jameth]

I am going to send my unit in to Protovapor so that it can be "correctly" fixed by them, so that if it breaks again in the future, or when they finally do get around to an improved 510/topcap, I will still be able to send it to them and get it fixed.

I was pretty much insulted by them for the thought of fixing this myself (or the audacity of me posting that I MIGHT), so I will gladly take advantage of their repair policy, and stop trying to help them by not adding to their workload, rather then getting into a debate about how solder is not the best way to bond the 510 to the top cap.

My vote is a nut with a little thing called LOCTITE, works a dream in all kinds of high performance machinery, but PV apparently thinks it wont work on a 510?



So I will send it to PV so they can "fix it like the pros", and in the mean time I will continue to enjoy my other mods.

'nuff said.

 

[JohnWillyson]

I am going to send my unit in to Protovapor so that it can be "correctly" fixed by them, so that if it breaks again in the future, or when they finally do get around to an improved 510/topcap, I will still be able to send it to them and get it fixed.

I was pretty much insulted by them for the thought of fixing this myself (or the audacity of me posting that I MIGHT), so I will gladly take advantage of their repair policy, and stop trying to help them by not adding to their workload.

In the mean time I will continue to enjoy my other mods.

'nuff said.

Their point probably is to try to reassure lurkers here that they stand behind their product. Someone just reading your posts might be scared off by the fact that something went wrong with yours and you having to fix it yourself.

Every time I have had to contact them, they were very helpful and more than willing to do whatever it took to get me loving it again.

I would take it for what it is, Protovapor standing behind their product and insisting they fix it for you.

 

[jameth]

Their point probably is to try to reassure lurkers here that they stand behind their product. Someone just reading your posts might be scared off by the fact that something went wrong with yours and you having to fix it yourself.

Every time I have had to contact them, they were very helpful and more than willing to do whatever it took to get me loving it again.

I would take it for what it is, Protovapor standing behind their product and insisting they fix it for you.

I agree 100%, and have always been very careful to make it clear in my posts that I am only fixing it myself because, I can, it is fairly simple, and that Protovapor would totally fix this if I was to send it to them.

For every lurker that may be scared off by posts like that, there are others that love seeing how simple the mod is to work on themselves if they HAVE to, in fact I am sure there are a number of sales directly related to such images and posts.

I have pretty much had nothing but excellent correspondence with Protovapor, and have written many a glowing things about their service and product, they have been very good and kind in previous dealings with them.

This time around was different, perhaps he is having a bad day, or otherwise is under pressure, but the message I received today was quite rude, and out of the blue.

Insisting they fix it is great, insulting me in the process is not.

It honestly shocked me more then anything, because they have been so kind and courteous in my past dealings with them.

 

[Rossum]

I was pretty much insulted by them for the thought of fixing this myself (or the audacity of me posting that I MIGHT)

Personally, I'd fix it myself just to avoid the down-time. My XPV gets used every day, all day long.

... which reminds me -- I really should order a spare. Heck, I did order a spare back just before they revised their store, and then I came across a Hana V2 in the classies while my order was in limbo. The Hana is cool, but it's not a put it in my shirt pocket and take it everywhere kind of mod.

[time passes]

Order placed!

 

[jameth]

Personally, I'd fix it myself just to avoid the down-time. My XPV gets used every day, all day long.

... which reminds me -- I really should order a spare. Heck, I did order a spare back just before they revised their store, and then I came across a Hana V2 in the classies while my order was in limbo. The Hana is cool, but it's not a put it in my shirt pocket and take it everywhere kind of mod.

[time passes]

Order placed!

You and I think a lot alike, but alas, I am going to send it in and let them fix it up right.

If my 510 coming loose was just a total one off fluke mistake in production, I owe it to Protovapor to fix the problem to their specs.

If my 510 coming loose was a sign that the methods of attaching it are not adequate, I also owe it to Protovapor to let them see and resolve the issue in future units.

If my 510 comes loose a second time after Protovapor gives it their seal of approval of a correctly soldered top cap, then I will revisit this topic with more evidence that solder is not the best way to bond these parts, but until then, I will let Protovapor "show me" that it is, by fixing my unit.


The fact that no one else (that I know of) has chimed in about their 510 coming loose, is a good indicator that mine was a fluke, but I still have my doubts about the effectiveness of solder in this application.

 

[Mattnatti]

I run a 19mm dripper on mine and have never had a 510 issue. It is a small topper but it goes on and off twice a day. I don't drip through the tip I pull the top cap off every time. Still no 510 issues.
No O-ring issues.

If I did have a issue I would spend the $12 ( $6 to and $6 from ) for priority shipping and have them fix it. If the same thing breaks again then they should be on the hook for shipping this time. At least split it and if it breaks again within a reasonable time.

I love both of mine and am buying a third from a forum member before it hits the classifieds.
My daily driver is either in my pocket or hand all day. When it was snowing it was performing flawlessly for 25+ hours.
The plastic parts on the mod are wearing smooth and the corners are noticeably smoother than when it arrived. It is getting patina so to speak.

I don't like the way the XPV feels with a KL+ on it. But I am a hardcore dripper so it wasn't on the XPV for long.

 

[ClaimedVacancy]

I was just wondering... Anybody that ordered between Feb 28- March 3, have you received shipping notification?

 

[carbonbegone]

Yep, ordered the twenty eighth.
Notification today.

 

[TheDC]

Hopefully I'll get my notification sometime this week.

 

[Amdenco]

Getting antsy.. I ordered 3/10 still nothing, hoping next week I get a shipping notice.

 

[MadOzodi]

Getting antsy.. I ordered 3/10 still nothing, hoping next week I get a shipping notice.

Lead time on 3/10 was 30-35 business days from payment. I ordered just before you so I know how you feel. I also don't expect to get a shipping notice until after taxes are due...

I'm just doing my best to forget that I ever ordered one so I can be surprised when I get the shipping notice.

 

[ClaimedVacancy]

I just hope we all get ours soon! I ordered march 2nd and really REALLY hope I get that notification this week.

 

[MadOzodi]

Since an update on lead time hasn't been posted in a couple of weeks, I hope their workload has eased off some.

 

[Amdenco]

Lead time on 3/10 was 30-35 business days from payment. I ordered just before you so I know how you feel. I also don't expect to get a shipping notice until after taxes are due...

I'm just doing my best to forget that I ever ordered one so I can be surprised when I get the shipping notice.

Yeah I know. I'm trying to forget I ordered it, but damn it looks like an awesome mod!