The batteries being discussed are 14500 cells, which the Provape 1 took. You can vape about 2-3 mls before they would be depleted.I get about 24hrs+ on 18490, and seems like most of the day on 18350.
Like 12 watt MTL vaper. 12 not level.
You must be really vaping hard to kill either of these batteries in 2 hrs. When you say consistent, you really mean like vape, vape, vape, breathe. Vape, vape, vape, breathe.
- Sent from my Note 5 via Tapatalk
Agreed. I'm usually on the higher of that scale, but fully agree.The batteries being discussed are 14500 cells, which the Provape 1 took. You can vape about 2-3 mls before they would be depleted.
Ohh - Gotcha. And I learned something new as I didn't know they took 14500.Oh yea sorry - was talking about the Provape-1 (14500 battery)
Regulation is a must for me.The ProVape PV-1 is a great lil device...
Unregulated (as I understood it). Needs to be married to the right resistance atty for best results.
The newer 14500 batteries make it a viable candidate for an all day carry.
The ProVari has an advantage with it's Variable Voltage though.
A nice toy, but it just wasn't enough for me to keep it out of the classies.
My Opinion, Jim
Some people still use cartomizers but not many.Talk to me about these goofy looking clearos.
I haven't been vaping very long, but these look like stuff from the olden days.Anyone still using this kind of stuff? How would they compare to today's tanks?
I borrowed the pics from other ECF forumites in other ProVape threads from about 5 years back.
![]()
![]()
No apologizes necessary, as that's what we're here for.Sorry @coldgin96, but I gotta drop some knowledge.
The "Paper Gap" issue is only with the P3 devices and some uncooperative P3 threaded tanks.
The gap on the v2.5 is caused by the center pin being a "fixed" pin...so if an atomizer's center pin sticks out at all, it will cause a gap.
On the KFL, this issue was resolved by lightly filing/grinding down the bottom insulator for the center pin.
I don't know of any resolutions for any other tanks.
So along the same lines as these?Some people still use cartomizers but not many.
Those are called clearomizers. It used a wick to bring the juice to the coil (more specifically called a top coil or bottom coil). Not dissimilar to the tank atomizers you read about on these threads. The ones in the picture are just cheapies. A cartomizer used a sponge like material wrapped around a coil.So along the same lines as these?
![]()
Excellent. Thanks.Those are called clearomizers. It used a wick to bring the juice to the coil (more specifically called a top coil or bottom coil). Not dissimilar to the tank atomizers you read about on these threads. The ones in the picture are just cheapies. A cartomizer used a sponge like material wrapped around a coil.
Ask any question at any time. That's why we're here.Excellent. Thanks.
This is a great thread.
Talk to me about these goofy looking clearos.
I haven't been vaping very long, but these look like stuff from the olden days.Anyone still using this kind of stuff? How would they compare to today's tanks?
I borrowed the pics from other ECF forumites in other ProVape threads from about 5 years back.
![]()
![]()
Thx. Turns out that my Nautilus Mini does indeed sit flush on the 2.5, just not the Subtank Nano.Sorry @coldgin96, but I gotta drop some knowledge.
The "Paper Gap" issue is only with the P3 devices and some uncooperative P3 threaded tanks.
The gap on the v2.5 is caused by the center pin being a "fixed" pin...so if an atomizer's center pin sticks out at all, it will cause a gap.
On the KFL, this issue was resolved by lightly filing/grinding down the bottom insulator for the center pin.
I don't know of any resolutions for any other tanks.
More likely your threads "wore in" and now allow the attie to fully seat.No apologizes necessary, as that's what we're here for.Truth to tell, if I wasn't so excited I actually knew something, I probably would've read it closer and not answered as I thought the issue was only with out of spec P3's. On that note, the paper gap on Jackie's and my P3's have magically disappeared. Could this be from the P3's center pin getting, "seated" or possibly being worn in somehow over time?
![]()
A Comparo Pic...The ProVape PV-1 is a great lil device...
Unregulated (as I understood it). Needs to be married to the right resistance atty for best results.
The newer 14500 batteries make it a viable candidate for an all day carry.
The ProVari has an advantage with it's Variable Voltage though.
A nice toy, but it just wasn't enough for me to keep it out of the classies.
My Opinion, Jim
I don't think you can Bre. But wait for others to confirm this because i never upgraded the software on my P3.Question....
With v39 on a P3.... How does one change the battery warning from 17% remaining down to 5%. Not "off", just decrease the warning % setting.
Gracias!
You might be right. I am positive that I saw a post stating that the low battery alert could be turned off but also changed from 17% to 1, 5, 10, 15%. But the below from ProVape doesn't mention anything other than on/off. Weird.I don't think you can Bre. But wait for others to confirm this because i never upgraded the software on my P3.