That's some serious breath you got there. Yes, you would be able to release the button and then go for another round. You won't be able to adjust the time, but you can double or triple hit the 16
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That's some serious breath you got there. Yes, you would be able to release the button and then go for another round. You won't be able to adjust the time, but you can double or triple hit the 16
The PCB is estimated to be about $45, but this could go down in price in a year.
We recommend the IMR AW 18490. They are basically a 18500 but just a tad shorter. Its the high drain feature that you will benefit from.
AW doesn't make an IMR 18500. Even if a regular Li-Ion 18500 fits (it probably does), you shouldn't use one.
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it says that the batt has to have the positive nipple on top. flat wouldn't work. i wonder if it'd be ok to put a tiny magnet spacer on the flat top ones that i have.
i think it would prob be worth the 12.50 to purchase the proper battery to eliminate any problems... shorts..explosions...and so forth
and anything that resulted from installing a batt like that prob wouldnt be covered under warranty.....(just my 2 cents)
you're right---I just ordered 18500 IMRs yesterday from lighthound as part of a larger order... the picture is 18490 ....
AW IMR18500 1100mAh LiMN rechargeable lithium battery
All good...
Spacers in a metal device present a risk because the chassis carries the ground current... there's always a possiblity that the magnet can slip to the side of the battery contacting the chassis, and creating a bridge between the chassis and the cathode(positive) end of the battery...
This times ten. If you must use a spacer, use it on the negative side (where it can't do any damage). A spacer on the positive side will short out eventually, and the result will not be pretty. If you have flat-topped IMR cells, a big solder blob is safer than a magnet, but still less than ideal. If the flat-top cells you have aren't rated to at least 3C, you shouldn't be using them at all.
Yeah- that's what I was thinking, I just didn't want to get into another argument where I have to prove it..I couldn't agree more... unless you can get the cap of the battery to 350 degrees, the solder will come off- I wouldn't think that's a safe thing to do ...even on an IMR...
be safe... just get new batteries with your new device ....
the $20 extra for a pair will hurt alot less than a shorted spacer....
Fully agree that this is not recommended. Touching a hot soldering iron to the battery is an accident waiting to happen.
It doesn't just deserve it, it needs it. This device will pull about four amps at 6V with a 2.5ohm atty, and standard li-ion cells just plain can't provide that much current safely. Provape plasters the provari's page with "recommendations" for IMR cells, but the truth is that anything less is dangerously underspeced.
Batteries certainly can be soldered safely. High heat, good silver solder and proper technique are required though, and it's not something I'd recommend for the novice. Basically, if you have to ask, just buy the right battery for the job instead.
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Technically, the readilasts should be able to handle it safely- they are supposedly comming with an 18500 version...
http://redilast.com/images/stories/PDFs/2600draft.pdf
The big AW's can too-
That said, IMRs are just an inherintly safer choice. I'm glad Provape is recommending them firmly.
The unit is current limited to 2.5 amps. Any quality 18650 can put out 5-6 amps continuosly and stay completely cool and within spec. Even with the boost working at max as the battery discharges this still leaves plenty of room. I'm not sure why there is a push for the IMR bats when using 18650's.
I plan on using either the AW 2600 or Panasnonic 2900 mahs for this mod
The unit is current limited to 2.5 amps. Any quality 18650 can put out 5-6 amps continuosly and stay completely cool and within spec. Even with the boost working at max as the battery discharges this still leaves plenty of room. I'm not sure why there is a push for the IMR bats when using 18650's.
I plan on using either the AW 2600 or Panasnonic 2900 mahs for this mod
Hey Nuck-
I think its more of an issue with the 18500's- the AW's max out at 2.4A ... and they would be the battery of choice in a protected format...
Also, I believe the current limit is on the output, not the battery side so if you had to boost and drive 2.5A, the battery drain would be higher- to get to a nice warm 10 Watts (not unreasonable) when the battery is at 3.7V, you'll need at least 2.7A... when the battery voltage drops to 3.2V it needs to pump 3.1A to maintain 10W.... IMR's are probably the only right answer for 18500 if you want to stay within all rated limits all the time..
Also, ECF has gone as far as to say that safe chemistry is safer than a protected battery making LiFePO4 and LiMn chemistry prefered over standard LiCo with a PCB... There's enough evidence out there that tt's hard to argue against it .... I think Provape has gone way beyond in focusing on the safety issues with this device and they set the bar for others to follow. Recommending only IMRs is consistent with that message and I think they are acting quite responsibly by leading with that message....
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