ProVari Variable Voltage Mod

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IndustrialAction

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I was thinking of using a magnet on the positive terminal but it's not a good idea given the magnet could shift and touch the inside of the body at the same time resulting in a short. Assuming you are using a battery with protection or at the very least a thermistor then nothing really bad would happen but it's still not worth the risk.

Edit: The cap closes all the way for both the Panasonic and the Tenergy.

It would take a pretty "special" person to set the magnet on the side of the battery in a way that touches the body of the PV and the positive connection at the same time. If you have the magnet centered in the pole when you put it in and screw the cap on, it's probably not going anywhere. It certainly beats solder on your batt's pole.
 

skydragon

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JonnyVapΣ;2413168 said:
You can upload from your computer under 'Go Advanced'.
Additionally, I don't see how it would be an issue.

I didn't know that. I thought they did away with that feature.

I can try to take a picture if it is a matter of you implying you don't believe me. If that isn't the case, I would prefer not to as my intent was not to start any trouble. I know David makes a good product. I also know that sometimes things can can happen. If it hasn't been mentioned until now I am guessing it is not wide spread and maybe only a few were affected.

In any case, as I said, I will if you are doubting what I say but it will have to wait until tomorrow. mwa probably has a better camera than me though. =)
 

JonnyVapΣ

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I didn't know that. I thought they did away with that feature.

I can try to take a picture if it is a matter of you implying you don't believe me. If that isn't the case, I would prefer not to as my intent was not to start any trouble. I know David makes a good product. I also know that sometimes things can can happen. If it hasn't been mentioned until now I am guessing it is not wide spread and maybe only a few were affected.

In any case, as I said, I will if you are doubting what I say but it will have to wait until tomorrow. mwa probably has a better camera than me though. =)

LOL....engineers don't doubt. We're just curious.
 

mwa102464

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OK here is 2 pics I took quickly and its late, after 2 AM my time, I can do better if need be but they are very crooked when screwed on my unit, this is not a good milling, lathe was off center or the connector was mounted crooked in the top cap, one or the other I believe:(
 

ukeman

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well so much expectation has been invested in the Provari by us ... mine is perfect... it would be a let down to find a flaw that while not a functional thing, still is disturbing: 1. visually.. 2. takes away from the concept of quality to a degree; it's in your face.

this is a bonafide state of the art PV... top of the line so far imo... and the price is reasonable.
i imagine they will be selling a boatload of units.

i'm sure they have a QC system, and maybe these are slipping through ... need to tighten up a bit, and also make it right for you.
 

Vape360

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www.ProVape.com
In fact now when I look at it very closely, I can see the Atty connector is mounted crooked, and it is very clearly noticeable.!

Hey Mwa,

What I think your seeing is the center pin down inside the ProVari adapter is raised just a little bit. This is to help with all the different atomizers out there having different center post depths. When you screw on your atomizer its sitting on the center post before going all the way down and the atomizer can float a little at that point. The atomizers center post is a moving part where as the ProVari contact pin is very tight and won't move very easily. The ProVari top atomizer adapter is made of one piece. The threads and the outer part of the adapter are all machined out of solid SS. The center pin is the only part that is pressed into the adapter but it’s independent from the threads and the housing.

The original caps we had made before any went out were very tight and with all the different threads coming out of China we tossed all those and re-did them. We loosened up the threads just a little to allow for a little easier screw on, and to allow for all the Chinese tolerances which we have seen to be all over the place. So this is why it can move a little while going down to the end of the travel for max compatibility, but once you get to the bottom of the travel it will sit on the raised ledge where it will center.

You can also position it while it’s screwing down and it will sit center. If your center post is further out on your atomizer, if may not be screwing in all the way giving you a little tilt. If you tighten a little more it will push the atomizer center post in to where it needs to be and center. The atomizers center post is typically surrounded by a small O ring which allows the atty center to move around. Now its possible that your center pin down inside the connector is not seated all the way. If this is the case you can remove the battery, insert the flat tip of a screw and gently tap it down and straight to make sure its center. The center post is pressed in by hand so maybe its at a little angle but the threads themselves are one solid piece along with the whole adapter.

Now the CE2 on the other hand has a post that sits higher up and this helps to have a higher positive contact pin.

We hold very tight tolerances and the machining should be VERY accurate. We will certainly evaluate the parts we have to verify this but I think that's what's going on. Try giving your atty a little extra nudge so it rests on the ledge at the end of its travel or center it just before you tighten it all the way down. If that doesn't help please email us
 
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Nuck

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It would take a pretty "special" person to set the magnet on the side of the battery in a way that touches the body of the PV and the positive connection at the same time. If you have the magnet centered in the pole when you put it in and screw the cap on, it's probably not going anywhere. It certainly beats solder on your batt's pole.

With a magnet, all it would take is a decent bang on the side of the mod to cause a short. Pop an earth magnet on a bat and give it a decent tap on your desk and you can see how easy they can slide. Not quite sure why you would think it "certainly beats solder" but up to you.
 

derek88

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With a magnet, all it would take is a decent bang on the side of the mod to cause a short. Pop an earth magnet on a bat and give it a decent tap on your desk and you can see how easy they can slide. Not quite sure why you would think it "certainly beats solder" but up to you.

What I think he ment is the battery pushing on the magnetic will prevent it from moving(should be a tight fit as is) havent looked for how the inside is if the board is exposed on the bottom I might rethink it, but if it works after a quick test with a magnet then I will probably dab some solder on my self. Thanks for the info Nuck
 

IndustrialAction

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Sep 14, 2010
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With a magnet, all it would take is a decent bang on the side of the mod to cause a short. Pop an earth magnet on a bat and give it a decent tap on your desk and you can see how easy they can slide. Not quite sure why you would think it "certainly beats solder" but up to you.

Of course you can move the magnet with a "decent tap on your desk" but that's not the same as having it move once it is in the mod with the end cap screwed on. Besides, even if it did move inside the mod, it woud have to maintain contact with the battery pole, the side of the tube and the positive terminal of the unit. Unless you've got a wide magnet, this isn't very likely. The magnet I have is about the same size as a battery button. If it slipped to the side, it wouldn't be big enough to maintain contact at all three points. As for the solder, like you said, that's a quick way to damage the battery permanently if you're not careful and spot-on.
 

cos

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im using standard configuration 18500 battery with a regular 306 atty on it, set at 4.4 and it is golden man. very smooth yet a good th. Sounds like a good bottle of wine. The Provari vapes very nice. I haven't tried my mini 801 (2ohm) atty set at 4.2 yet but i will post when i try it. This is the atty Matt (MWA) is talking about. This atty is sweet but i like my 306 better. imo of course.
 

mwa102464

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Hey Mwa,

What I think your seeing is the center pin down inside the ProVari adapter is raised just a little bit. This is to help with all the different atomizers out there having different center post depths. When you screw on your atomizer its sitting on the center post before going all the way down and the atomizer can float a little at that point. The atomizers center post is a moving part where as the ProVari contact pin is very tight and won't move very easily. The ProVari top atomizer adapter is made of one piece. The threads and the outer part of the adapter are all machined out of solid SS. The center pin is the only part that is pressed into the adapter but it’s independent from the threads and the housing.

The original caps we had made before any went out were very tight and with all the different threads coming out of China we tossed all those and re-did them. We loosened up the threads just a little to allow for a little easier screw on, and to allow for all the Chinese tolerances which we have seen to be all over the place. So this is why it can move a little while going down to the end of the travel for max compatibility, but once you get to the bottom of the travel it will sit on the raised ledge where it will center.

You can also position it while it’s screwing down and it will sit center. If your center post is further out on your atomizer, if may not be screwing in all the way giving you a little tilt. If you tighten a little more it will push the atomizer center post in to where it needs to be and center. The atomizers center post is typically surrounded by a small O ring which allows the atty center to move around. Now its possible that your center pin down inside the connector is not seated all the way. If this is the case you can remove the battery, insert the flat tip of a screw and gently tap it down and straight to make sure its center. The center post is pressed in by hand so maybe its at a little angle but the threads themselves are one solid piece along with the whole adapter.

Now the CE2 on the other hand has a post that sits higher up and this helps to have a higher positive contact pin.

We hold very tight tolerances and the machining should be VERY accurate. We will certainly evaluate the parts we have to verify this but I think that's what's going on. Try giving your atty a little extra nudge so it rests on the ledge at the end of its travel or center it just before you tighten it all the way down. If that doesn't help please email us

David,

Your hypothesis is exactly correct !!!, being a new Mod to me, and me having many, I am use to how Atomizers screw on to other mods. With that being stated your Provari is quite different in its thread design as well as how your center pin in the connector sticks up just a bit which is really a good thing too, quite frankly the more I fiddle with it by turning different manufacturers Atomizers onto your Provari I'm now realizing the way this native 510 top connector on the Provari was designed it is actually a quite phenomenal design. When screwing on an Atomizer if you want it to sit exactly straight on the unit you have to apply a little pressure to one side on the final twist or tightening to make it seat exactly precise to sit straight but that's a good thing. This thread design was also a good idea compared to others I see, simply because there is a little bit of play at first when screwing on the Atomizer but once you get it down to the point of connection it tightens up perfectly and like I said you have to really look at it and apply just a little pressure to one side or the other to get it just perfect which is actually a great idea in my opinion and will allow all the different Atty manufacturers Atty's to work and work perfectly. I will state again, simply because of the way different manufacturers design and build there center pins on there Atomizers, some center pins on Atty's have a poor design in there weak silicone ring under there center pin and others use a more quality grommet or O ring under that pin so your design makes room for any of these designs the way I see it.

Thank you for your long explanation, it was well stated and the design is very nice the more I look at it.:2cool:
 

cos

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David thank you for your answers on the center pin. Matt as always you on the ball man. and Skydragon who realized about it thanks for pointing it out. The more i have this Provari and the more posts i read the more i see how well this PV was planned and made. David you designed one hell of a beauty. Now i have a question regarding last page in Provari user guide. Provari LED On/Off
when i press the button 15 times and L0 comes on, after 2 seconds it shows ON or OFF. Does this just control the pushbutton lite? It doesnt effect the LED 2 digit display right? i want to know cause when i press my button to vape the 2 digit display does not come on at all. Just checking to see if this is correct thats all. so the only time the 2 digit display comes on is when you press the button multiple times to change the modes or settings right?
1 more thing.... To anyone that has a EGO case.... Jimho mentioned the Std ego case , the provari will fit inside it nicely (but with the 18650 battery you have to remove the atty. Did anyone try putting the Provari in the EGO case yet and please post which case it is so myself and others if they want to buy it. Thanks to Jimho for pointing this out. and if anyone else said it thanks to you too. he also said at surefires site there are loads of flashlites holsters that will fit. he said the diameter is 23mm. Thanks again Jimho. Happy Provari days to all.
I would love to know the amount of Provari's that were sold. Everyone just think back to aug of 2009 when all we did was user a 510 or 901 or a KR808 and take it apart againa nd again and again. But dont you just miss that lolololol.
we spent more time modding then vaping. oh yeh i miss those days so much lolol. and we kept buying, buying, buying. I still have two 380 man xtra long KR808 batteries that i might as well list on the classifieds. never use that crap again. i mean who knew The Provari and other high end mods would even be thought of. 2011 is gonna be something and big changes will be made. and i thought i spent a lot last year lol.
great day guys and gals.
Cos
on my 3rd cup coffee here cant wake up this morn
 

skydragon

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Oct 7, 2009
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Hey Mwa,

What I think your seeing is the center pin down inside the ProVari adapter is raised just a little bit. This is to help with all the different atomizers out there having different center post depths. When you screw on your atomizer its sitting on the center post before going all the way down and the atomizer can float a little at that point. The atomizers center post is a moving part where as the ProVari contact pin is very tight and won't move very easily. The ProVari top atomizer adapter is made of one piece. The threads and the outer part of the adapter are all machined out of solid SS. The center pin is the only part that is pressed into the adapter but it’s independent from the threads and the housing.

The original caps we had made before any went out were very tight and with all the different threads coming out of China we tossed all those and re-did them. We loosened up the threads just a little to allow for a little easier screw on, and to allow for all the Chinese tolerances which we have seen to be all over the place. So this is why it can move a little while going down to the end of the travel for max compatibility, but once you get to the bottom of the travel it will sit on the raised ledge where it will center.

You can also position it while it’s screwing down and it will sit center. If your center post is further out on your atomizer, if may not be screwing in all the way giving you a little tilt. If you tighten a little more it will push the atomizer center post in to where it needs to be and center. The atomizers center post is typically surrounded by a small O ring which allows the atty center to move around. Now its possible that your center pin down inside the connector is not seated all the way. If this is the case you can remove the battery, insert the flat tip of a screw and gently tap it down and straight to make sure its center. The center post is pressed in by hand so maybe its at a little angle but the threads themselves are one solid piece along with the whole adapter.

Now the CE2 on the other hand has a post that sits higher up and this helps to have a higher positive contact pin.

We hold very tight tolerances and the machining should be VERY accurate. We will certainly evaluate the parts we have to verify this but I think that's what's going on. Try giving your atty a little extra nudge so it rests on the ledge at the end of its travel or center it just before you tighten it all the way down. If that doesn't help please email us

HUH????? :confused::confused: :laugh: :laugh:
 

Zen~

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10 presses of the button! Pretty quick!
I only looked at the manual once, to be honest, it's not really needed unless you get an error code, which I haven't yet. The menu on the vari is simple and seamless.
You"ll enjoy it!

To be more specific... 9 presses of the button, wait a half second... press again... total of 10.
 
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