You can upload from your computer under 'Go Advanced'.
Additionally, I don't see how it would be an issue.
Additionally, I don't see how it would be an issue.
I was thinking of using a magnet on the positive terminal but it's not a good idea given the magnet could shift and touch the inside of the body at the same time resulting in a short. Assuming you are using a battery with protection or at the very least a thermistor then nothing really bad would happen but it's still not worth the risk.
Edit: The cap closes all the way for both the Panasonic and the Tenergy.
JonnyVapΣ;2413168 said:You can upload from your computer under 'Go Advanced'.
Additionally, I don't see how it would be an issue.
I didn't know that. I thought they did away with that feature.
I can try to take a picture if it is a matter of you implying you don't believe me. If that isn't the case, I would prefer not to as my intent was not to start any trouble. I know David makes a good product. I also know that sometimes things can can happen. If it hasn't been mentioned until now I am guessing it is not wide spread and maybe only a few were affected.
In any case, as I said, I will if you are doubting what I say but it will have to wait until tomorrow. mwa probably has a better camera than me though. =)
I have a question. Has anyone else gotten their ProVari and noticed that the atties and cartos sit at an angle? Which also leaves a gap on one side. Thanks.
In fact now when I look at it very closely, I can see the Atty connector is mounted crooked, and it is very clearly noticeable.!
It would take a pretty "special" person to set the magnet on the side of the battery in a way that touches the body of the PV and the positive connection at the same time. If you have the magnet centered in the pole when you put it in and screw the cap on, it's probably not going anywhere. It certainly beats solder on your batt's pole.
With a magnet, all it would take is a decent bang on the side of the mod to cause a short. Pop an earth magnet on a bat and give it a decent tap on your desk and you can see how easy they can slide. Not quite sure why you would think it "certainly beats solder" but up to you.
With a magnet, all it would take is a decent bang on the side of the mod to cause a short. Pop an earth magnet on a bat and give it a decent tap on your desk and you can see how easy they can slide. Not quite sure why you would think it "certainly beats solder" but up to you.
Hey Mwa,
What I think your seeing is the center pin down inside the ProVari adapter is raised just a little bit. This is to help with all the different atomizers out there having different center post depths. When you screw on your atomizer its sitting on the center post before going all the way down and the atomizer can float a little at that point. The atomizers center post is a moving part where as the ProVari contact pin is very tight and won't move very easily. The ProVari top atomizer adapter is made of one piece. The threads and the outer part of the adapter are all machined out of solid SS. The center pin is the only part that is pressed into the adapter but its independent from the threads and the housing.
The original caps we had made before any went out were very tight and with all the different threads coming out of China we tossed all those and re-did them. We loosened up the threads just a little to allow for a little easier screw on, and to allow for all the Chinese tolerances which we have seen to be all over the place. So this is why it can move a little while going down to the end of the travel for max compatibility, but once you get to the bottom of the travel it will sit on the raised ledge where it will center.
You can also position it while its screwing down and it will sit center. If your center post is further out on your atomizer, if may not be screwing in all the way giving you a little tilt. If you tighten a little more it will push the atomizer center post in to where it needs to be and center. The atomizers center post is typically surrounded by a small O ring which allows the atty center to move around. Now its possible that your center pin down inside the connector is not seated all the way. If this is the case you can remove the battery, insert the flat tip of a screw and gently tap it down and straight to make sure its center. The center post is pressed in by hand so maybe its at a little angle but the threads themselves are one solid piece along with the whole adapter.
Now the CE2 on the other hand has a post that sits higher up and this helps to have a higher positive contact pin.
We hold very tight tolerances and the machining should be VERY accurate. We will certainly evaluate the parts we have to verify this but I think that's what's going on. Try giving your atty a little extra nudge so it rests on the ledge at the end of its travel or center it just before you tighten it all the way down. If that doesn't help please email us

Hey Mwa,
What I think your seeing is the center pin down inside the ProVari adapter is raised just a little bit. This is to help with all the different atomizers out there having different center post depths. When you screw on your atomizer its sitting on the center post before going all the way down and the atomizer can float a little at that point. The atomizers center post is a moving part where as the ProVari contact pin is very tight and won't move very easily. The ProVari top atomizer adapter is made of one piece. The threads and the outer part of the adapter are all machined out of solid SS. The center pin is the only part that is pressed into the adapter but its independent from the threads and the housing.
The original caps we had made before any went out were very tight and with all the different threads coming out of China we tossed all those and re-did them. We loosened up the threads just a little to allow for a little easier screw on, and to allow for all the Chinese tolerances which we have seen to be all over the place. So this is why it can move a little while going down to the end of the travel for max compatibility, but once you get to the bottom of the travel it will sit on the raised ledge where it will center.
You can also position it while its screwing down and it will sit center. If your center post is further out on your atomizer, if may not be screwing in all the way giving you a little tilt. If you tighten a little more it will push the atomizer center post in to where it needs to be and center. The atomizers center post is typically surrounded by a small O ring which allows the atty center to move around. Now its possible that your center pin down inside the connector is not seated all the way. If this is the case you can remove the battery, insert the flat tip of a screw and gently tap it down and straight to make sure its center. The center post is pressed in by hand so maybe its at a little angle but the threads themselves are one solid piece along with the whole adapter.
Now the CE2 on the other hand has a post that sits higher up and this helps to have a higher positive contact pin.
We hold very tight tolerances and the machining should be VERY accurate. We will certainly evaluate the parts we have to verify this but I think that's what's going on. Try giving your atty a little extra nudge so it rests on the ledge at the end of its travel or center it just before you tighten it all the way down. If that doesn't help please email us

HUH?????![]()
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10 presses of the button! Pretty quick!
I only looked at the manual once, to be honest, it's not really needed unless you get an error code, which I haven't yet. The menu on the vari is simple and seamless.
You"ll enjoy it!