have you noticed a differences between the radius 40 and 60?
i have something weird in the 40;
the 60 vapes fine like my dna75 for example,but with the 40 when i take a long drag,after a few second something is happening.
i'll try to explain:
with the other mods when taking a long drag i can hear the sizzling and bubbling all along the drag,but with the 40 after like 3-4 seconds,the sound,as well as the vape get muted.
i can imagine 2 things happening,or the watts are stronger/higher at my regular 12 watts(or the ohms reading?)
or it has some heat protection or some other protection.(or something's faulty/or i'm imagining it)
i just redid the firmware update,and it's still the same.
i'm considering in reverting to the previous one,i think it's the 26.
are there any big differences between the two versions besides the CC? i read something about battery management.
i have something weird in the 40;
the 60 vapes fine like my dna75 for example,but with the 40 when i take a long drag,after a few second something is happening.
i'll try to explain:
with the other mods when taking a long drag i can hear the sizzling and bubbling all along the drag,but with the 40 after like 3-4 seconds,the sound,as well as the vape get muted.
i can imagine 2 things happening,or the watts are stronger/higher at my regular 12 watts(or the ohms reading?)
or it has some heat protection or some other protection.(or something's faulty/or i'm imagining it)
i just redid the firmware update,and it's still the same.
i'm considering in reverting to the previous one,i think it's the 26.
are there any big differences between the two versions besides the CC? i read something about battery management.
Both the 40 and 60 Radius vape the exact same to me but I seldom go over 11-12W. In fact, seldom over about 9.6W. Neither has the CC firmware installed. I tried it when it first came out but reverted long ago since I don't use CC. Makes the menu as well as the firmware simpler.
Swap the tanks between the two and see if that makes a difference. If not, try swapping the batteries. Then maybe swap both the tanks and batteries if still haven't come to any conclusions. That should rule out a possibility of comparing apples to oranges since you're vaping both at your regular 12W. The only other thing I can think of at the moment is maybe something with the finger/switch interaction.
EDIT: One other thing. You aren't trying to use CC on Kanthal wire are you? Also ... and I don't remember the Radius CC instructions ... but are you properly locking in the resistance at room temperature if you are using CC and something other than Kanthal?
EDIT again: ... didn't you perform some "repairs" to the 40 yourself?
Swap the tanks between the two and see if that makes a difference. If not, try swapping the batteries. Then maybe swap both the tanks and batteries if still haven't come to any conclusions. That should rule out a possibility of comparing apples to oranges since you're vaping both at your regular 12W. The only other thing I can think of at the moment is maybe something with the finger/switch interaction.
EDIT: One other thing. You aren't trying to use CC on Kanthal wire are you? Also ... and I don't remember the Radius CC instructions ... but are you properly locking in the resistance at room temperature if you are using CC and something other than Kanthal?
EDIT again: ... didn't you perform some "repairs" to the 40 yourself?
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not yet
i don't use CC at all,and if i did, it would definitely not be on a Radius,but probably on some DNA device.
i already swapped the tank between my 3 mods back and forth(2 radius and a DNA).
it might be a coincidence, and that every time i get to the Radius 40, it's just when i need to re-wick and it's a bit clogged,but the fact is that I've noticed it a few times already.
i think i'll revert to the ver26. and hope i'm not missing some "hidden" features not written in the manual,or that i'm not aware off.
i just read that in the Radius manual:
If the Radius detects you are using a battery that cannot handle the power output, it will limit the output to something that is safe. Please note that due to safety being our number one concern, there are limits set to prevent a dangerous situation"
that's weird with a 1.5ohm coil @12watts with a new 30Q battery. but i guess i'll try to swap it.
I have a Radius 40w & 60w and my 40 was given me some problems. The consistency of the hit just wasn't there.not yet
i don't use CC at all,and if i did, it would definitely not be on a Radius,but probably on some DNA device.
i already swapped the tank between my 3 mods back and forth(2 radius and a DNA).
it might be a coincidence, and that every time i get to the Radius 40, it's just when i need to re-wick and it's a bit clogged,but the fact is that I've noticed it a few times already.
i think i'll revert to the ver26. and hope i'm not missing some "hidden" features not written in the manual,or that i'm not aware off.
i just read that in the Radius manual:
If the Radius detects you are using a battery that cannot handle the power output, it will limit the output to something that is safe. Please note that due to safety being our number one concern, there are limits set to prevent a dangerous situation"
that's weird with a 1.5ohm coil @12watts with a new 30Q battery. but i guess i'll try to swap it.
The battery also was acting strange, the charge time and charge would vary.
I didn't have any new Samsung batteries so first I tried a Sony VTC4 and then an LG but finally got a new Samsung and that seemed to fix it.
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did changing the battery solve also your issue with the irregular consistency of the hit,or just the charge time?I have a Radius 40w & 60w and my 40 was given me some problems. The consistency of the hit just wasn't there.
The battery also was acting strange, the charge time and charge would vary.
I didn't have any new Samsung batteries so first I tried a Sony VTC4 and then an LG but finally got a new Samsung and that seemed to fix it.
good to know i'm not imagining stuff,it's a bit of a shame for a new Radius i recently got.
i'll just revert to ver26 swap batteries and see what happens.
reverted to ver26 and first thing i got after putting a tank on is the send back to factory error for a sec and then it disappeared.
i'll have to check this mod with something else than the kfl+ which in itself is giving me troubles.
for the moment i'm waiting for a lg hg2 to charge so i can put it instead of the 30Q,
maybe this mod works better with an IMR battery instead of an INR, since provape always suggested using AW batteries and recently the lg hg2 also.
anyhow,i'm glad i removed this CC from the device,and i prefer the menu inlay better this way.
i'll have to check this mod with something else than the kfl+ which in itself is giving me troubles.
for the moment i'm waiting for a lg hg2 to charge so i can put it instead of the 30Q,
maybe this mod works better with an IMR battery instead of an INR, since provape always suggested using AW batteries and recently the lg hg2 also.
anyhow,i'm glad i removed this CC from the device,and i prefer the menu inlay better this way.
Just for reference, the Radius shipped new from ProVape with Samsung 25r batteries.
Nick, in addition to the 2 Radius I have that vape the same to me, I have 8 ProVari tube mods. I have found subtle differences between most of the tube modes. Subtle ... and found only after spending quite some time with each and nothing that is a show stopper. For instance, my gunmetal P3 has the best fire switch tactile feel of the bunch. And while all are a great vape experience, my Procyon is the smoothest hitter of the bunch ... I think. Other things that I've noticed ... my classics will often read a 1.8ohm Nautilus coil as 1.9ohms while the P3s will read the coils as 1.7ohms and the ProVari 2.5s will show 1.8ohms. If I had another group of the same mods, I MIGHT find different subtle differences. All that said, and "tossed in a pile", I seem to most often pull out my satin finish Classic for the overall experience. So there are subtle differences and I think we do come to prefer one or the other from our collections.
Just for grins and giggles this morning, I reloaded the firmware in both the 40 and 60. Neither gave me any kind of error message ... that I noticed. I didn't have a tank on either one while reinstalling the firmware.
OH, and I did notice in the 40 and 60 while installing batteries to reinstall the firmware ... the 40 has black plastic inside while the plastic mount inside the 60 is clear plastic. I mentioned the Procyon as the smoothest hitter of my tubes, but both my Radius (which vape the same to me) are the smoothest hitters of all and I like the larger fire button best. But as I said, the differences are subtle.
Nick, you did have an issue with the center pin on the 40 I think? ... I'm just wondering if there could be some damage or something internal to your 40. Then you briefly got the error message, but wonder if you would have gotten the same message if you'd reinstalled the firmware without a problematic tank installed while doing so. Also, since there was a problem with the pin on the 40(?), I wonder if some juice could have found it's way into the 40 and compromised something in some way? And finally, you did buy the 40 used I think(?). Who knows what the previous owner may or may not have done.
Nick, you did have an issue with the center pin on the 40 I think? ... I'm just wondering if there could be some damage or something internal to your 40. Then you briefly got the error message, but wonder if you would have gotten the same message if you'd reinstalled the firmware without a problematic tank installed while doing so. Also, since there was a problem with the pin on the 40(?), I wonder if some juice could have found it's way into the 40 and compromised something in some way? And finally, you did buy the 40 used I think(?). Who knows what the previous owner may or may not have done.
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Thanks for the replies and assistance.
and when firing for the first time it showed this error but soon disappeared and now it seems to work.
there is no juice in it, i'm being aware about any possible thing that could damage the mod and taking good care of them both since i paid quit a lot for them and counting on them to keep working and saving me future expenses.
i got the Radius new from a shop in the US.
but frankly I'm less worried now after i got all this issues. it is what it is and for now they work.
but would not buy again! oh Provape closed..
just kidding,i really like the looks of the Radius,it's kind of old fashioned with those metal plates and the bottom screws,much better looking than all those futuristic new devices,
but i was expecting better from Provape after reading all the reviews and seeing in videos how strict the QC is,
and then i get 2 mods with a bad looking 510 pin and an allmost tore o-ring,
on one mod the tanks don't sit flush,
on the other one the - button was a bit stuck,and now all the above.
i received the 60W with an lghg2 and the 40W with a 25R, which i might put back after testing the Lg.
i didn't either,it's after finishing the firmware change that i put the tank on,
and when firing for the first time it showed this error but soon disappeared and now it seems to work.
i had no issue with the 510 pin,it's just that i didn't like the looks of it compared to other mods pin;it gets scratched easily + mine had a tiny stain of rust on it visible only with a magnifying glass.
there is no juice in it, i'm being aware about any possible thing that could damage the mod and taking good care of them both since i paid quit a lot for them and counting on them to keep working and saving me future expenses.
i got the Radius new from a shop in the US.
but frankly I'm less worried now after i got all this issues. it is what it is and for now they work.
but would not buy again! oh Provape closed..
just kidding,i really like the looks of the Radius,it's kind of old fashioned with those metal plates and the bottom screws,much better looking than all those futuristic new devices,
but i was expecting better from Provape after reading all the reviews and seeing in videos how strict the QC is,
and then i get 2 mods with a bad looking 510 pin and an allmost tore o-ring,
on one mod the tanks don't sit flush,
on the other one the - button was a bit stuck,and now all the above.
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Sorry about the issues you have and understand your frustrations. Hope you get it sorted. My experience with a total of 10 ProVari mods (three of which were purchased used) is different and completely positive in all regards. But I do wish the earlier tube mods had better mounts for the control boards rather than just glue, which will degrade over time and likely be the weakest link, especially if I inadvertently continue to install a P3 or high performance end cap on them DOH !!!
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