PSYBRID Phase II . . . . . . . splat!

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pdib

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Well, I was gonna mention this before, so it's not a response to dZ or anyone else in particular. My "stand back and take a look at it" perspective is this: With the fuse mod and the firing pin mod, I'm getting some incredibly good results. Rob's BC contacts look promising to perform just as well. The centerpost stuff I've been playing with has been primarily a means of seeing what kinds of gains can be achieved in eliminating the 510 connection. They come with some pretty big trade-offs. I can't think of a way to do it without having a centrally located +post in a small chamber atty. No more switching atties on a whim. No more RM2. . . . . . For what? The first version with a brass center post got me no gain in voltage to the coil. It was equal. The second version got me added v-drop. I'm not saying it can't be done. I'm saying I was only interested to the extent that there were sufficient tangible gains to make it worth either the trade offs above-mentioned or some serious investment in factory fabricated parts. Although I know there are folks who would gladly hybridize their REO for other reasons; I don't see the point if I can't see the point (for me). Even if I tinkered on indefinitely, what would I gain? My Rigs are all hitting like a Mack truck loaded with steer manure and barreling down the Snoqualmie Pass. I don't even know what kind of gain would have made me think it worthwhile. There's just not that much room left in there. 0.13V on a 1Ω coil, and 0.3V on a 0.4Ω coil, c'mon, that's sweet! And so is the RM2, and switching atties. I guess, all I'm saying is, having done quite a bit of experimenting w/ and w/out the 510 connection (and having seen absolutely zero gain from having 2 different solid centerposts in there . .. and giving the current an alternative path on the neg.) . . . . . . . . . . . I'm good with it. I like it. I see theorizing about contact points . . .. but my math is field-math, and out here it works just fine.
 

MamaTried

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So, I know the pictures didn't tell the whole story. I will add some detail. There was noalox on the cheek of the SS nut (the whole surface where the flat of the brass pin meets the nut was buttered). What happened as I was trying different parts, and fitting things was . . . . . . . . . I discovered that that exact setup (combination of parts) was ~1/2mm bigger than perfect . . . . . meaning . . . . . when I jammed the delrin cover in place, and pried it tight while I screwed it down, It put a substantial amount of upward pressure on that there stack of parts. Above the nylon bushing, is just post and gaskets, it doesn't slide around, but with a dash of force, you can pull it up or push it down. So, the delrin cover was cramming the whole assembly up (shoving the nut REAL tight against the brass pin which was being shoved REAL tight against the nylon bushing, which was being shoved REAL tight against the REO body/opening).


It was tight.

i only bolded a few references, but one of us needs to avoid prison movies in the future...
 

davewuvswaffles

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i only bolded a few references, but one of us needs to avoid prison movies in the future...

A regular Tobias Funke.

tumblr_lngwvvXojs1qd73seo1_500.png
 

turbocad6

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I agree 100% that something like this is a trade off and I also agree that the benefit probably doesn't outweigh the drawbacks at all for most

the only real practical benefit I see with something like this is eliminating the possibility of a bad connection at the 510 and even then it only makes any sense at all if you are the type who just sticks to one atty always and never really take it off unless you have to, this will make it that you never really have to take your atty off to clean the 510 connection and the 510 connection will never add significant voltage drop by building up oxidation over time.

I will do something like this eventually for that reason, once I make sure that I'm leaving my reo with the cyclone atty and never really want to ever have to remove it, then this will be a worthwhile benefit
 

SeaNap

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That looks pretty sweet! I am pretty baffled as to why you gained so much vdrop myself, but I love this idea. I personally am one that only uses 1 RM2 so this would have been right down my ally. The only reason I take the atty off is to clean the connections, and this would eliminate that. But your right there isn't mubh to be gained from so much work. I personally think that this type of hybrid makes the REO even more of an indistructable tank than it already is, which is something I value over removing the atty.

So you guys got me thinkin... would it be possible to take copper tubing and just use a dye to thread it? Assuming that there exsists such a size tube to fit our needs. If tubing does exsist, that could be easier than drilling out the screw. (sure now I get the idea :facepalm: )

Did you sand the top of the nut holding the firing brass? Could there be some sort of finish on there thats not as conductive? probably not but im going to be thinking about this one for a while
 

Big Hitter

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this was hardware store, screw bin SS . . . . . not rocketship to the moon SS

The only difference being some slippery salesman greased the right palms and made a fortune off that "rocketship" SS :D

I owned a fastener company for 20+ years ...... when it comes to stainless fasteners their is not much room to cheat the system like with low carbon or high carbon steel. Their are basically two grades 18-8 (302, 303, 304) and 316 Stainless ....... err well there is 410 stainless but that has enough hardness it is magnetic even. Not used in threaded fasteners much more for SS dowel pins and roll pins etc.
 

pdib

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That looks pretty sweet! I am pretty baffled as to why you gained so much vdrop myself, but I love this idea. I personally am one that only uses 1 RM2 so this would have been right down my ally. The only reason I take the atty off is to clean the connections, and this would eliminate that. But your right there isn't mubh to be gained from so much work. I personally think that this type of hybrid makes the REO even more of an indistructable tank than it already is, which is something I value over removing the atty.

So you guys got me thinkin... would it be possible to take copper tubing and just use a dye to thread it? Assuming that there exsists such a size tube to fit our needs. If tubing does exsist, that could be easier than drilling out the screw. (sure now I get the idea :facepalm: )

Did you sand the top of the nut holding the firing brass? Could there be some sort of finish on there thats not as conductive? probably not but im going to be thinking about this one for a while

Yes, I sanded the face of the nut, and polished it on the backside (paper side) of 1500 grit.

I saw some copper tubing that you could try. I believe it was called 1/8" refrigerator tubing.

I was staying away from copper as most people don't seem to think that juice marinating and vaping it is a good idea. Also, of course, the cleaning and the fragile nature of it. . . . . . . . .for heaven's sake, don't drop your atty. Even the brass tubing I used on V.1 was delicate to work with. And the wire capture I devised for it wouldn't have lasted more than, say, ten coil changes.
 

Kristian

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...I saw some copper tubing that you could try. I believe it was called 1/8" refrigerator tubing.

I was staying away from copper as most people don't seem to think that juice marinating and vaping it is a good idea. Also, of course, the cleaning and the fragile nature of it. . . . . . . . .for heaven's sake, don't drop your atty. Even the brass tubing I used on V.1 was delicate to work with. And the wire capture I devised for it wouldn't have lasted more than, say, ten coil changes.


When I first read your op I was thinking 1/8" copper tubing. I had tracked some down when I was building Tesla coils. I used it to build the primary coils on a dual bipolar TC setup (Off Topic, but Twin bipolar Tesla coil - first light on Vimeo if you are interested in seeing the coil build in action). I might have some in storage somewhere. I'll look the next time I'm out at storage shed #2.

I wish I had more time to tinker these days. You guys have got my wheels turning. I'm wondering if there is a way to make the connection without the juice touching the copper? Maybe coating somehow?
 

supertrunker

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condoms are the answer to all my problems! from cartos to tanks - what a failsafe they have been.

I'm struggling to see how to fit a 975 turn macrocoil (has super-x patented that yet?) in my RM2 unless it hangs out of the window.

i'm liking the voltage - what's the drop on that?
my face i reckon!

9000//1Ω = the maths is too hard for me! i really need to pay more attention to that electricity meter! Smurf says hi Dibby! and something like ffs - stop this madman!

i like a little jacob's ladder myself!
9kv 30ma NST Jacobs Ladder - YouTube

same volts. But copper still makes your juice bad, although that Tesla would vapourise it faster than it could taint maybe.

T
 

Kristian

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condoms are the answer to all my problems! from cartos to tanks - what a failsafe they have been.

I'm struggling to see how to fit a 975 turn macrocoil (has super-x patented that yet?) in my RM2 unless it hangs out of the window.

i'm liking the voltage - what's the drop on that?
my face i reckon!

9000//1Ω = the maths is too hard for me! i really need to pay more attention to that electricity meter! Smurf says hi Dibby! and something like ffs - stop this madman!

i like a little jacob's ladder myself!
9kv 30ma NST Jacobs Ladder - YouTube

same volts. But copper still makes your juice bad, although that Tesla would vapourise it faster than it could taint maybe.

T

Yeah, copper is a terrible idea. I'm still a noob when it comes to this stuff. I hadn't really thought about it too hard, just trying to participate and learn. OT again: I think my Jacobs Ladder would work better by the way 2 mot resonant capacitor jacob's ladder - YouTube Less than half the volts but more amps.
 
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