Pyrex Tube/Inner Coil/SS Mesh Genesis Mod

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dsy5

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I would think silicone would do just fine at the bottom. Needs to be tested though to see if the hot air within the tube is not hot enough to scorch it. JB Weld works perfectly for this though for long term use I'd prefer the silicone if it will hold up.

I don't think that heat will be an issue if the tube extends far enough into the tank. My first experiment with the 2x1 FQ, I used candle wax that I just kind of forced into the bottom. The next one I tried lipstick as the sealing agent - it worked with no melting of the lipstick. But from now on I think that the round toothpick will work on both ends.
 

k3vin

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I experimented on an old tube and I used porcelain repair liquid.. It's nasty stuff while wet and when it dries I am going to put a bit to the torch and see how it reacts and smells..I dabbed a bit of it on the top if the old tube to see if it would hold a seal..

I also painted a bit of it on some kanthal and last but not least a bit on a small piece of mesh...

It is just a small bottle that looks like liquid paper.. For fixing chips on stoves and appliances...
 

Big Screen D

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I don't do Facebook...:( My life, activities, etc. are monitored enough without me volunteering any information. Although I'll bet somewhere there is a dossier on everyone who has posted on ECF...

Yeah, I really don't do FB either. Just an easy way for me to host pics from my new phone, and have access to my daughters horse barn info.

I am so close I want to try mine this morning, but I'm thinking maybe I should wait a few more hours...

JB weld is good to go after a couple of hours for me.
 

Big Screen D

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As to the issue of getting the mesh tight on the tube, on my next build I am going to try an extra long negative lead and wrap it over the mesh from bottom to top, then back down to the bottom.

That sounds like a good idea. Thinking just tight enough to hold the wick in place, but not so tight that it strangles wicking. Sadly, I don't have room through the wick hole in my duds to try it. Yet another reason to get a AGA t. Trying to hold out for the new version.
 

dsy5

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That sounds like a good idea. Thinking just tight enough to hold the wick in place, but not so tight that it strangles wicking. Sadly, I don't have room through the wick hole in my duds to try it. Yet another reason to get a AGA t. Trying to hold out for the new version.

I haven't tried the wick wrapping idea yet, but I just opened up my AGA airhole to 1.5 and cranked up the watts to 11 - holy Jesus, the vapor is phenominal and there is absolutely no burnt taste. I'm sure that if I can get the wick a bit tighter, I won't need so much power. Battery time will probably suffer some, but the vape from these are excellent. The fused quartz works very well and the glass will not distort even on a dry burn.
 

Big Screen D

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I haven't tried the wick wrapping idea yet, but I just opened up my AGA airhole to 1.5 and cranked up the watts to 11 - holy Jesus, the vapor is phenominal and there is absolutely no burnt taste. I'm sure that if I can get the wick a bit tighter, I won't need so much power. Battery time will probably suffer some, but the vape from these are excellent. The fused quartz works very well and the glass will not distort even on a dry burn.

Interested to see how much difference you see by tightening the wick. Pretty big difference in power between our builds.

6.5 watts with glass VS 11 watts with FQ. Fear it could be the wall thickness difference.

Also, how many layers of wick are around the FQ tube?
 

dsy5

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Interested to see how much difference you see by tightening the wick. Pretty big difference in power between our builds.

6.5 watts with glass VS 11 watts with FQ. Fear it could be the wall thickness difference.

Also, how many layers of wick are around the FQ tube?

I agree with you on the wall thickness effecting the amount of power needed. I'm using about 3, maybe four wraps of wick at the moment - after this tank is done, I'm going to tear it down and redo it. Here's a quick shot of the setup:

DSCF0050.jpg
 

Big Screen D

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I agree with you on the wall thickness effecting the amount of power needed. I'm using about 3, maybe four wraps of wick at the moment - after this tank is done, I'm going to tear it down and redo it. Here's a quick shot of the setup:

View attachment 163143

3-4 layers is good. May just need to have better contact mesh to tube.

Also, are you sure there is no juice inside the tube? Lipstick and toothpicks:facepalm: :)
 

dsy5

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3-4 layers is good. May just need to have better contact mesh to tube.

Also, are you sure there is no juice inside the tube? Lipstick and toothpicks:facepalm: :)

No juice in tube, believe it or not, the lipstick sealed and so did the toothpick. Although, I am going to use the toothpick on the bottom on my next build.
 

dsy5

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Some reflections on taste and vapor...

I was never really satified with the original ss wick setup - I thought that the flavor was a bit too heavy and the occasional hot spot only made the flavor and throat hit awful. Although the vapor volume was good, I had a love/hate relationship with it.

This setup is much more favorable for me. Even though, at the moment, I have to crank up the watts, the taste is equal to that of my Kanger T2 and T3's (maybe better, as the taste seems... cleaner). I get clouds of vapor (have to draw hard on it to get the right carboration) and never an off or burnt taste.

Although more optimization is necessary, I really like this. Time will tell how long a coil can actually last, sitting in there red hot all the time, but with the toothpick sealing the ends, replacement is not hard at all.
 

dsy5

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Big D, you are using a 1.5Ω coil, correct? That may factor in a little on the higher power that I require. I am going to wrap a 1.5-1.7Ω coil and see if there is any improvement. Probably won't do it until next week, I want to try getting the wick wrap tighter on this coil first and with the holidays, I have some other things to wrap!
 

dsy5

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Well i'm not sure about the toothpick anymore...

I tore down my original setup to try a slightly lower ohm value and to try and tighten the wick around the glass. And I wanted to put the toothpick in the bottom, too. As I was getting the toothpick into the hole for a tighter fit, I broke a chunk of glass off the edge. Seems that the pointy shape also acts as a wedge! So I cleaned it up and tried again. Damn, broke again!

Slow down, I thought. Trying to get this done too quickly. Well, after a third break, I said eff this and tried to whittle that point a bit flatter so that there wasn't so much force from the wedgy shape. Was able to get both of the tube ends sealed and added the mesh (got a good tight wrap, but not too tight). Put it into the atty and fired it up.

Had some good vapor for the first few hits, then not too much of anything. I had lowered the watts down to 8.5 since I made a 1.7Ω coil, so I cranked it up to 10 watts. Still hardly anything. Tore the wick back out and inspected - tube full of juice! I guess that my whittling was not very good. I think as the tube cools, it has a very strong suction as the air inside contracts.

So, now I'm at a crossroads here - the lipstick in the bottom seemed to seal okay and the original 'pick in the top seemed to be okay. I don't want to break any more glass, so I need a better plug for the top. I think that I will use candle wax for the bottom instead of the lipstick, though, if I can melt it and get it inside the tube. I played around a little with some tin foil in the top, but I'm not sure that is a good seal either.

So close, yet so far...
 

k3vin

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I have had the tube I put a drop of porcelain repair on drying for 2 days.. I will see how it is doing in a few hours. I have to go to next town over this morning..

Preliminary burn of the porcelain dry liquid off of 500 SS mesh had it vaporizing and leaving a fine powder which rubbed off easily, but it hadn't even set up for 24 hours..

I still have some I painted on kanthal and again the Pyrex tube.. I will give it a burn test when I get home and report my findings...
 
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