Pyrex Tube/Inner Coil/SS Mesh Genesis Mod
- Thread starter Big Screen D
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I have some FQ tubing coming later this week, so I'll be able to get in on the fun with y'all trying to seal those buggers up.
Been thinking about the juice in the top thing. Could be I'm not having that issue with the top not being completely sealed because of the taper. Though even then, if the wick is less than 2mm from the end, juice will still climb the tube and let a small amount in. As long as I have more than 2mm of naked tube above the wick, there is no problem.
Been thinking about the juice in the top thing. Could be I'm not having that issue with the top not being completely sealed because of the taper. Though even then, if the wick is less than 2mm from the end, juice will still climb the tube and let a small amount in. As long as I have more than 2mm of naked tube above the wick, there is no problem.
I'm getting pretty good at making these with the glass now. Built six in a couple of hours this evening. Only broke one tube coiling it, so that's a new record lol.
Wish I could just solder the connections. Would be so much easier than crimping.
Wish I could just solder the connections. Would be so much easier than crimping.
I'm sure that with the huge amount of vapor your setup is putting out, Big D, unless it's fully sealed up top, there will be some leeching. Need to find some way of fully sealing. Not sure who it was that posted it, but he mentioned the 'vacuum bulb' thing. I'm sure that there is a method to that madness for longevity. Kind of cool that the Pyrex is malleable enough to close up the top a bit.
How about using that enameled resistance wire without any NR?
Edit: Nah that won't work for the lengths you use. I'm going to try and come up with a way to run both leads out the top, or maybe even running it up the side of the tube inside of the mesh.
Edit: Nah that won't work for the lengths you use. I'm going to try and come up with a way to run both leads out the top, or maybe even running it up the side of the tube inside of the mesh.
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I need to do some tinkering with this idea. So melting the tube to seal it has been tried? Did anyone try putting a vacuum on the tube and then melt to seal it? You should be able to vacuum the tube and seal it at both ends without any issues and it would make the coil last for a very long time.
I agree, there surely must be some that finds it way inside, primarily from condensation that can run down the positive lead. Thing is, I can't detect an off taste, and even after multiple tanks, I can so no evidence of juice inside the tube. So what small amount that makes it in doesn't seem to be an issue.
Oh, and I have cracked a couple of tubes by overheating them to see how long the wick can keep up. No problem in normal use, so just vape em.
Il will try melting some Pyrex onto the fq again tomorrow..
We are surely getting close to an easy solution..I am going to have to get my coils closer together.. Another issue I am having is head room when I put the cap back on top of my did unit..
Can't we use silver solder to just solder the nr to the coil wire???
We are surely getting close to an easy solution..I am going to have to get my coils closer together.. Another issue I am having is head room when I put the cap back on top of my did unit..
Can't we use silver solder to just solder the nr to the coil wire???
Ok more seeds for planting... Lol
Heat shrink tubing for bottom... Wouldn't have to wait for jb weld, and also for connecting coil and nr together after twisting and it crimping.. Would probably help my issue out alot .. Heh
Heat shrink tubing for bottom... Wouldn't have to wait for jb weld, and also for connecting coil and nr together after twisting and it crimping.. Would probably help my issue out alot .. Heh
I've haven't had too much luck getting silver solder to adhere to the Kanthal or NiChrome - just kinda beads up and falls off. Tried a lot of different fluxes, too, but still not luck. It also would probably melt at the temperatures inside the tube.
Thought of that too, but for the top - probably would not take the heat, though.
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I found the fireplace repair,, will hold up to 2000 deg.. Also found some silicone but only goes to 500 degrees.. Also found some heat shrink tubing. May not be small enough. Probably have to go to radio shack..
Pic of silicone I found at lowes
Pic of silicone I found at lowes
DAP 100% or aquarium silicone is food grade and should hold up in the bottom. I tried silver solder on the bottom of a ~1" FQ tube, but the heat from the coil melted it. If you want to solder the NR to the kanthal, you can make two J-hooks to mechanically join the two and solder over that, however the heat might just melt the solder like above too.
I didn't find the heat shrink tubing size I wanted at lowes, although it may be out there at some other lowes.. Radio shack had really small tubing, but it was in a package deal with other sizes I will never use.. So last stop the hardware store (Westlake) and they had some that is for 24 ga wire... I am going to give that a shot..but I slipped a disc in my lower back a few days ago and it took all I had just to get around this morning, so I am at home resting for now. My chiropractor won't be back until tomorrow...
JB cures pretty quick with a little heat from a lighter
What about having the FQ tube a little longer and using a pointy silicone carto plug for the top????
I didn't post it, but I did try the pointy plug. With my having to twist the wires together, there is really not enough room for it - the coil ends up extending into the wick hole too far. It is not a real good tight fit, either - I could remove it very easily; I think that air expansion could push it back out. I didn't try it in a vape scenario due to the fact I didn't like the coil down so far. (Pulling the wick/coil apart numerous times is driving me crazy!)
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Where did you find the furnace repair? Lowes? I'm interested in finding out if it works for you.
Yea dsy lowes.. But most places that will sell fireplace stuff will have it.. This one is black.. I had some gray a few years back as I did need to repair my fireplace backing, and I will say as far as heat it can hold up... I would need to reapply a bit every year, but let me tell you we worked our freplAce over pretty good it would get so hot that every year we would have to replace the wrought iron wood holder...
I have a vacuum pump and would hook up a tube from it to the glass. Draw a suction on it while sealing one end. Then seal the other with a heat and crimp method. In theory this should help to seal the tube and it would be containment free inside so the coil would last a very very long time.
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