Pyrex Tube/Inner Coil/SS Mesh Genesis Mod

[k3vin]

This looks promising for removable plugs..

http://catalog.cshyde.com/viewitems/silicone-products/silicone-foam/


But the next tube I make I am going to use straight regular old silicone...

 

[dsy5]

Found a couple of products which might be good for the bottom seal:





The JB water weld can be used on potable water tanks, so it should be safe - only good to 300°F, but temps should be well below that in the atty tank.

DAP Sealant is safe for food contact - no temperature rating for it.

 

[dsy5]

Dammit! Tried using the JB water weld stuff to seal my FQ tube and broke it. These fat fingers of mine need to use less squeezing force. Broke it much in the same way I broke the others - who says you learn from your mistakes! Got to find a way to protect the tube when working on them in this way - maybe a rigid tube like a pen or something.

Oh, Tom...

 

[k3vin]

oh man dsy,that sucks..it must of broke around one of the cut edges?

 

[TBinAZ]

Did it shatter? How long was it? If it's not a total loss, I wonder if you can just trim it down.

PM reply sent.

Dammit! Tried using the JB water weld stuff to seal my FQ tube and broke it. These fat fingers of mine need to use less squeezing force. Broke it much in the same way I broke the others - who says you learn from your mistakes! Got to find a way to protect the tube when working on them in this way - maybe a rigid tube like a pen or something.

Oh, Tom...

 

[k3vin]

Ok,I was going to order a few items from here for us to play around with,but they are closed until the second..

High Temperature Adhesives and Epoxies, Ceramics, Insulation, Epoxies and Epoxy

 

[asdaq]

Found a couple of products which might be good for the bottom seal:

View attachment 165091

View attachment 165092


The JB water weld can be used on potable water tanks, so it should be safe - only good to 300°F, but temps should be well below that in the atty tank.

DAP Sealant is safe for food contact - no temperature rating for it.

I'm pulling for the DAP, slightly injected and with a bulbed end.

 

[dsy5]

No, it didn't shatter and it wasn't around any cut edges - it just snapped in half from the pressure of my thumb and finger. They are fairly hard and durable, but do not accept side forces very well. Since it snapped in half, I have no workable size left. Good for experimenting, I suppose, but not for actual use. I like the tube to be extended into the tank quite a bit, as this keeps the bottom end cool and the bottom plug doesn't have to be such a high temp resisting material. The optimal size for me is a 25 to 30 mm piece - at least for an AGA; haven't tried any wicks in a DID.

 

[dsy5]

Tried the JB water weld and it has hardened very nicely. Cure time is 1 hour. Since the tube is busted I won't be able to test it. Tried doing some poking with a needle and no flaking or crumbling noted. The only problem I see with it is that it is about 3/4" in diameter and is a two part putty - there is a core to it and a piece needs to be sliced off and kneaded to get it to activate. So you end up with, at even the thinnest slice, enough to do about 20 wicks!

I am going to see if the plug is removable, as I can't do much else with the wick in its broken state.

 

[k3vin]

Here is my coil and tube today after maybe 30 min total time of vaping..The cement seems to be holding up well,very well,I was able to pick a bit off the top of the tube,but it did not just crumble,and I see none in my tank from the bottom cement..The tube is darkened,but I believe it is only the FQ and no juice inside..

And I only let cement cure for a couple hours,did a heat treatment on it,then vaped it a bit,put it away overnight in the tank,and this is what I have..I think it looks pretty good..

 

[k3vin]

OK,after further analysis,I dont know if fireplace repair is the best without a coating of silicone on it,mostly in the tank..I heated it up a bit after I took my glass out of the tank and after I burned off left over juice,I then took my fingernail and sort of scraped across it and small particles came off,almost like a dust...

NOw I am going to see if I can get it off,I need to redo my wires as can be sen in my last picture,and just go with silicone.straight clear silicone on both ends..

And it wasnt hard just now to get all the fireplace repair off,pretty much scratched it off.time to rebuild..

 

[dsy5]

If you use a needle, very carefully, you can remove the FP repair mortar. Take your time and it will come out. Gentlly poke and twist the needle and you can work from both ends if you need to.

 

[k3vin]

that worked dsy thanks,got 99%of it off and out..going in with just straight clear silicone

 

[dsy5]

Salvaged a small portion of the tube that I broke. I'm going to make a workable wick using 36ga Kanthal to get the coil a bit shorter. Going to seal the bottom with the JB water weld first, then maybe the silcone on a subsequent build. I was able to remove the water weld from the broken tube using a tiny drill bit!

 

[k3vin]

DSy,how many wraps on the 36?? I have some 36g nichrome..

 

[dsy5]

DSy,how many wraps on the 36?? I have some 36g nichrome..

Good question, I believe about six. But what I do is twist the NR to the Kanthal, measure off the resistance I want, then twist on the other NR at the measured point. Then I wrap up all of the Kanthal around my needle. It would also depend on what you are using to wrap around. I use a very small needle. I would like to find something that is thinner, yet still rigid - any ideas?

Edit: Are you using a magnifying lens when you take your pictures? The resolution is superb. I can't get any good reolution out of my camera when using macro mode.

 

[k3vin]

yea,I am using a work table magnifying glasss and it has a fixture for a light...They have them at lowes for about $30 or so..I am using a stick pin that came with a dress shirt I bought..They are smaller than any of my needles..I just looked up my silicone,regular clear,and msds said over 300F..and "silicones" can produce formaldehyde vapors..but that is just BASIC silicone sealant..

 

[k3vin]

this place has quite a selection on FQ..the date on catalog said 2010..but the pyrex tubes say 2012..

http://www.quartz.com/index.html

 

[Big Screen D]

Kimax(r) Glass Capillary Tubes, Melting Point: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Kimble 34500. OD, 1.5 to 1.8 mm; approximate wall thickness, 0.2 mm. Length, 100 mm (ends open).Sold in vials of 100.

So I guess the ID would average 1.3mm

 

[dsy5]

Kimax(r) Glass Capillary Tubes, Melting Point: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Kimble 34500. OD, 1.5 to 1.8 mm; approximate wall thickness, 0.2 mm. Length, 100 mm (ends open).Sold in vials of 100.

So I guess the ID would average 1.3mm

Kimax is the same as Pyrex, so they would be similar to what you have now, Big D, slightly smaller.

this place has quite a selection on FQ..the date on catalog said 2010..but the pyrex tubes say 2012..

National Scientific Company - Quartz Tube, Tubing & Rod

Seen that place before - prices seem good, but they have a $50.00 MOQ.