Question about resistance checking on my new Sigelei Vmax v.3

[JoeVa]

I'm kind of new to this. I had a Lavatube v.1 for over year, but that didn't have as many bells and whistles, and I wanted variable wattage and the ability to check the atomizer. My question: when I check the resistance of the cartomizer, it gives me different readings, anywhere from 2.1 to 3.3. It is a 3 ohms Lavatube tank cartomizer. On the other hand, the Lavatube atomizer constantly shows 3.0 although it shows 2.9 when I first fire it. It once gave me 2.8. Is this normal?

I'd appreciate the answer as soon as possible because Exhalevapers.com doesn't have a very good return policy. I'm guessing it is the cartomizer since the atomizer works much better. But I am getting slightly different readings for the atomizer.

Besides that, the Sigelie is really nice. Yeah the screen is very slightly slanted and the window is pretty scratched and scuffed, and I can't understand why they would design a telescoping mod to need an extra extended cap. Isn't the whole point of telescoping so we don't have to have extra parts like on the Vamo?

By the way, doesn't the Lavatube v.2 seem to be the same as the Vamo without variable wattage, but much, much more expensive. I don't see the point to the thing unless the casing is really sturdy. They also have a great warranty, but why do the use a hobbled chip without VW? When the threading of my old Lavatube chrome v.1 got stripped, I almost bought the Lavatube v.2, but I'm glad I researched what was currently on the market. Things have changed a bit since I bought the chrome Lavatube.

 

[Greensticky]

I noticed on my Zmax telescope, the extra end cap isn't needed. I just use the shorter one with an 18650 or an 18350 and it works fine. The longer endcap can be kept as a backup I guess. I love my zmax telescopes i have the flat top and the beveled top v3s.

 

[JoeVa]

I think you need the big one if you stack 2 18350's. The small one works best with one 18350. And you can use either one with one 18650. I only use the 18650. I use the bigger end cap because I think it looks better. My small cap is a little off color, and it isn't as symmetrical with the top of the mod. Also, I read the big cap could accommodate all of the battery configurations. Does the big cap work with your 18350?

By the way, how far do you screw in the battery? I've read online about how some people broke their Sigeleis by screwing it in to far.

Anyway, do you always get consistent ohms readings? All afternoon I was trying to put new cartomizers in my new Smoktech Pyrex tanks (which I got to avoid polycarbonate), and I couldn't get the cartomizers to wick, and two shorted out. I tried about five. Tonight I got home and put a new cartomizer in the old polycarbonate tank and it is reading 3.1 constantly, it wicked right away, and it is vaping excellently. I'm going to try this cartomizer in a Pyrex tank, but I can't see how the tank could be the issue. These cartomizers don't fit the Pyrex tanks perfectly, so I ordered some Smoketech cartomizers. It would be strange if I just had bad cartomizers all afternoon. I don't get it.

 

[JoeVa]

I just realized, the screen isn't scratched at all. It was the plastic film covering the screen. I thought it might be that at first, but I couldn't peel it off. I figured there was no plastic, and I didn't want to scratch the screen more, so I gave up. I have the flat top. It really is a good-looking mod. I was debating on getting a Vamo V3 for $22 less and a much better warranty from Fasttek. The Vamo was my second choice and looks like a great mod, but I really liked look of the Sigelei flat top, the fact that it is brushed stainless steal (there's no stainless steal for the Vamo V3), and the telescopic feature.

 

[yzer]

The Sigelei Zmax V3 telescopic should give you accurate resistance readings plus or minus .1 ohm. It may fluctuate within that range if the atomizer resistance is right in the middle of the value.

If the reading isn't more accurate than that (in this order or probability)...

1. 510 or eGo connection needs cleaning
2. Poor atomizer electrical connection at center post (pull the atomizer center post)
3. Atomizer is defective
4. Poor battery, tube or end cap electrical connection
5. Defective electronics

 

[cyberwolf]

It is somewhat normal for resistance to fluctuate by .1 or .2 ohms as a coil heats and cools. The fluctuation from 2.1 to 3.3 does sound like either a problem with the cartomizer or the connection to the ZMAX.

 

[DaveP]

My Provari takes a second or two to stabilize as the coil reaches temperature stability. The resistance of a coil will change as it heats up and will displays various readings until it stabilizes. Wait a second or two and it will read correctly.

 

[JoeVa]

Thanks. Now I have a cartomizor in there that is hitting 3.1 almost every vape, when it doesn't it hits 3, so I guess it was the cartomizers. If you put a cartomizer without juice in the devise and fire it to check the ohms, could that cause I short? I tried that with two of them, and they started smoking, but they may have been defective.

 

[DaveP]

Thanks. Now I have a cartomizor in there that is hitting 3.1 almost every vape, when it doesn't it hits 3, so I guess it was the cartomizers. If you put a cartomizer without juice in the devise and fire it to check the ohms, could that cause I short? I tried that with two of them, and they started smoking, but they may have been defective.

In a carto there's filler that is designed to work in a heated liquid soaked environment but not in a dry state. You really don't want to dry burn a carto. Instead of the 200 degree heat typical in a juiced carto, a dry one may reach as high as 500 degrees and scorch the filler. Bad taste will result. Just throw it away and juice up a new one if it doesn't taste right after an out of juice condition or a dry burn.

 

[JoeVa]

Thanks. I just learned from YouTube how to prime them. I wasn't priming them, and I'm using VG juice, so I was burning them. Now they are working great, and my ohms reading doesn't vary. Is it good to soak cartos in water and let them dry if you want to use a new flavor? What do you do if you want to use a new flavor in a tank, but you don't want to throw out the carto?

 

[Renzuli]

Welcome , but yzer kinda said what was to be said , I have both the flat top version , as well as the round top . When I get funny ohm readings , it's usually because there's some juice in and around the contact plate . And I have had no problems with returns , with Exhale Vapors , so I'm clueless to your issues with them .

 

[JoeVa]

Thanks. I don't have an issue with them. I read their policy, and it says they only accept returns on DOA items and on unopened packages for 14 days: "We provide a 14 day refund policy on unopened merchandise or if unit is DOA except for cartomizers, atomizers or juices." I'm glad to hear they make exceptions: https://www.exhalevapors.com/

So what is the best way to clean tank cartomizers to put in a new juice flavor?

 

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

Thanks. Now I have a cartomizor in there that is hitting 3.1 almost every vape, when it doesn't it hits 3, so I guess it was the cartomizers. If you put a cartomizer without juice in the devise and fire it to check the ohms, could that cause I short? I tried that with two of them, and they started smoking, but they may have been defective.

Yeah, as has been said, if you dry fire a carto, you just killed your carto. You can get an ohm meter that won't cook it, or just check the resistance on any number of variable power APV's

 

[Bill's Magic Vapor]

I think you need the big one if you stack 2 18350's. The small one works best with one 18350. And you can use either one with one 18650. I only use the 18650. I use the bigger end cap because I think it looks better. My small cap is a little off color, and it isn't as symmetrical with the top of the mod. Also, I read the big cap could accommodate all of the battery configurations. Does the big cap work with your 18350?

By the way, how far do you screw in the battery? I've read online about how some people broke their Sigeleis by screwing it in to far.

Anyway, do you always get consistent ohms readings? All afternoon I was trying to put new cartomizers in my new Smoktech Pyrex tanks (which I got to avoid polycarbonate), and I couldn't get the cartomizers to wick, and two shorted out. I tried about five. Tonight I got home and put a new cartomizer in the old polycarbonate tank and it is reading 3.1 constantly, it wicked right away, and it is vaping excellently. I'm going to try this cartomizer in a Pyrex tank, but I can't see how the tank could be the issue. These cartomizers don't fit the Pyrex tanks perfectly, so I ordered some Smoketech cartomizers. It would be strange if I just had bad cartomizers all afternoon. I don't get it.

You only need the extended cap if you stack. Otherwise, one cap will work the other configurations just fine. Don't overtighten your toppers. This can damage both the topper and the APV. The V3 has known threading and connection issues. A slight variation in the topper tolerance can make one evod topper work, another not work. Overtightening will not solve the problem, but will often lock the topper on the mod making it difficult to remove in one piece. You wouldn't be the first to not realize that the display on a Sigelei makes it look scratched on arrival. Also, as others mentioned, a .1 or .2 ohm difference is normal. A much bigger variance means there's a problem. A prior thread pointed out the most likely reasons quite excellently I thought. FYI, the V3 is my current favorite APV, and I do recommend them to others. Anyway, thank you for posting, good luck, congrats on getting here, welcome to ECF and Vape On!

 

[JoeVa]

Thanks, billbeckusa. I'm pretty new to this, so the question may sound stupid, but what is a "topper." Is it the opposite of a flat top battery? Are AW's considered flat or toppers?

 

[kiwivap]

Thanks, billbeckusa. I'm pretty knew to this, so the question may sound stupid, but what is a "topper." Is it the opposite of a flat top battery? Are AW's considered flat or toppers?

Hi Joe - by topper he's referring to the attachment you screw onto your pv - a cartomizer, or tank, or Evod... Some people screw them on far too tight and damage the centre pins on their pvs.

As for batteries - there are button tops and flat tops. You can tell by looking at them. I use AW IMR button tops.

 

[JoeVa]

Thanks, kimivap.

 

[DaveP]

FWIW, most center post contacts (the part that contacts the battery in the center of the threaded part), are pressed into a silicone sleeve. If you screw in the atomizer too far, that center contact can get pressed back into the outer sleeve of the atomizer and eventually fail to make contact with the center conductor.

When that happens, you can create a tool to ease it back out a bit by straightening one leg of a jumbo paper clip, then using needle nose pliers to create the tiniest right angle possible on the end. Use that as a tool to ease out the center contact by inserting it slightly into the hole and working it out to where the center contact is just a tad farther out than the outer ring.

The Vivi Nova is said to have a spring loaded contact and I've never had one not fire.

 

[JoeVa]

Thanks, DaveP. I haven't had a problem yet, but it is good to know in case.