Question: why higher wattage?

[rnln]

Sorry for silly questions. I have not visit this board for months and seem like am completely out of date. I have several variable wattage tube mods and vape at 7w most of the time. On resistance, I usually build it at between 1.4 ohms to 2 ohms.
Can someone explain to me what do you use higher wattage as 30w-100w for?
Thanks.

 

[Katdarling]

I'm hoping someone will drop by and give you some further explanations, but meanwhile, if you're enjoying 7w and 1.4 to 2.0 ohms, you'll be in very good company here.

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[denali_41]

those insanely high watt users are mostly cloud chasing,,trying to make the biggest cloud formation

locally the "ARES" has caught on big time,,it is a 300 watt mod that uses RC car batteries ,

oh yea ,it is as big as a brick too

 

[Katdarling]

300 watts???????????????????????

 

[nevillebartos]

Same reason people put rocket engines on cars, more isn't enough, ever.

 

[slappy3139]

I vape at 40-45 watts on my Reos with several different RDAs, and I am not a cloud chaser. I used to think the same thing, but have found once I transitioned to rebuildable atomizers, that increased coil surface area with bigger wire and increased airflow requires significantly more power than 7 watts to get a satisfying vape.

 

[denali_41]

YUUP 300 watts !! cost is about buck a watt, not my pic
some new tank called the "Mega" is sitting on it

 

[rnln]

With my variable wattage tube mods, when I jack it up to 10-12 watts, I can see that it vapes better than 7w, but I can't imagine up to 50w range (or even higher).
May I ask how long would the 18650 last vaping at 50w or 100w? How about safety issue?
Thanks

 

[slappy3139]

My reos are mechanical mods, so my power output is dependent on the resistance of my build, the lower I build my coil in resistance, the more power I will get on a 3.7 volt battery. I use Samsung 25R batteries which have a 20 amp continuous rating. My builds on my rdas are typically .32-.41 ohms, which puts me anywhere from 40-45 watts on a fresh battery. My max current on my lowest ohm build, assuming no voltage drop with a fresh battery is 13 amps, well within the 20 amp limit of my batteries rating.

 

[rnln]

Thanks for the info slappy.
My vamo and svd is a variable wattage tube, meaning it limits the built at higher than 1.3ohms.
What is the deal with those eleaf box mod with 30w, 50w, 100w? I read and see that it is also a variable wattage device and has all the circuit/battery protection as the old vamo/svd and such. Does it mean the diff is that it allow the built to go sub ohm?
Thanks.

 

[Psofos]

I was vaping at 7-10 watts on my mvp2 for 2 months at my start and thought the same. "Who needs 20+ watts?"
I must say the flavour and the thickness of vapor is 10 times better on my istick 50w with subtank mini now at 22-25 watts,0.5 ohms. Feels smoother to my throat too. I'm sure there's another step up in flavour in the area of 40-75 watts.

 

[spiffy01]

lower ohms need higher watts

lower ohms = better flavor and bigger clouds

 

[mcclintock]

^^-- backwards

I vape at 40-45 watts on my Reos with several different RDAs, and I am not a cloud chaser. I used to think the same thing, but have found once I transitioned to rebuildable atomizers, that increased coil surface area with bigger wire and increased airflow requires significantly more power than 7 watts to get a satisfying vape.

It's a flaw that RDAs usually need more power to do anything worthwhile. Making parts large enough for human hands results in larger chambers and often poor density and flavor with small coils and low power. Of course, if you want high power, no problem, and you need a lot of room because the coils and wicks get big -- sometimes to the point the chamber gets smaller from all that stuff, as well as smaller compared to the vapor amount. There are RDAs that control and limit the air flow better. I get decent flavor at 12W with my Derringer. There are also smaller RDAs but they are usually older designs that are less friendly to use.

Another thing with lung hits is not only does one want more vapor that comes out easier (looser airflow) but for a normal lung hit one wants that larger amount of vapor in a shorter time.

 

[slappy3139]

^^-- backwards



It's a flaw that RDAs usually need more power to do anything worthwhile. Making parts large enough for human hands results in larger chambers and often poor density and flavor with small coils and low power. Of course, if you want high power, no problem, and you need a lot of room because the coils and wicks get big -- sometimes to the point the chamber gets smaller from all that stuff, as well as smaller compared to the vapor amount. There are RDAs that control and limit the air flow better. I get decent flavor at 12W with my Derringer. There are also smaller RDAs but they are usually older designs that are less friendly to use.

Another thing with lung hits is not only does one want more vapor that comes out easier (looser airflow) but for a normal lung hit one wants that larger amount of vapor in a shorter time.

For warm dense vapor in larger chamber attys(such as i own) with a loose air draw that I prefer, much more than 12 watts would be needed for me. On my marquis I have to be in the .35 range for the warmth and vapor density I like, my first build in it of .43 just didn't produce warm enough vapor for me. It's a fact that the more airflow you have in an atomizer the more power you will need for warm dense vapor.

 

[slappy3139]

Thanks for the info slappy.
My vamo and svd is a variable wattage tube, meaning it limits the built at higher than 1.3ohms.
What is the deal with those eleaf box mod with 30w, 50w, 100w? I read and see that it is also a variable wattage device and has all the circuit/battery protection as the old vamo/svd and such. Does it mean the diff is that it allow the built to go sub ohm?
Thanks.

I don't personally own any of those mods , since I got into bottom feeders such as the reos, I've kinda of lost interest in any device that isn't a squonker. However I do still keep up somewhat with those devices and the isticks do allow for much lower resistance coils, lots of people use those subohm tanks like the kanger subtank mini or aspire Atlantis on them, I think the heads for those tanks are typically .5 ohm heads.

 

[slappy3139]

I was vaping at 7-10 watts on my mvp2 for 2 months at my start and thought the same. "Who needs 20+ watts?"
I must say the flavour and the thickness of vapor is 10 times better on my istick 50w with subtank mini now at 22-25 watts,0.5 ohms. Feels smoother to my throat too. I'm sure there's another step up in flavour in the area of 40-75 watts.

I run a subtank mini on my ZNA30 at 24-25 watts, any higher and wicking becomes an issue, at least with my 50/50 ejuice blends.

 

[Psofos]

I run a subtank mini on my ZNA30 at 24-25 watts, any higher and wicking becomes an issue, at least with my 50/50 ejuice blends.

Yes i have managed to go up to 35 watts with my mini. No dry hits but too hot vapor. That's the limits of the device imo.

 

[denali_41]

higher watts = more flavor = bigger clouds = burning through a hellauva lot more juice

 

[slappy3139]

So true

 

[catlady60]

YUUP 300 watts !! cost is about buck a watt, not my pic
some new tank called the "Mega" is sitting on it

Jeez, it must take some serious muscle to lift that mod and vape it.