Questions About Squonking

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MamaTried

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Thank you thank you everyone - you guys are all so awesome. I really feel like family here.

1) I'm not going to give up on my Reo so no worries. I will lovingly clean it, file it, Naolox it, etc.

2) I agree that a low resistance carto is probably the answer but I just ordered an RM2 from Rob, and don't really like anything I can't rebuild (the guy who sold me the Reo also was kind enough to send along some cartos with it, so I just thought I'd fire one up while waiting for the RM2)... so I don't see the need to order any LR cartos at this point.

3) To everyone who has PM'd or posted here with blind squonking advice - I'm so thankful. I know there is a learning curve and I expect I'll get this down fairly quickly with your help. One thing that may be an unexpected factor is, I have really long nails. I feel they are disrupting my squonking precision, so I'm considering trimming them down quite a bit so I can really feel the bottle when I squeeze. I need to become one with the bottle LOL - it's very zen. :2cool: I've never been good at knowing when to re-drip with 510 atties (I SO could not get the Aurora to work for me - dry hits and gurgles for days - yuck), and I never had to re-drip with cartos (always used them in a carto tank), so this will be my first time getting the hang of this. But I'm determined so it shouldn't take long.

hang in there. we are all here to help...

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Miarose

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Hey vvwls! I just got my first REO yesterday, so I have no clue what I'm talking about. But I noticed almost immediately that I'll have to cut some of my nails. I hadn't seen anyone say anything about it, but it may be possible to stick something behind the bottle to have it puff out a tini bit, so then we could almost use the lower part of our thumb and keep our pretty nails! Its an idea, dunno how feasible. I had ended up just poking my finger at the bottle. :)
 

Vwls

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OK I've got my Reo producing an average amount of vapor now. Cleaned it, got the flood out of the carto, and figured out how to blind squonk. It's about on a par with a Protank/eGo as far as vapor production and flavor, which is, I suppose, all I could ask from a 14500 battery and cartomizer. So I'm good till the RM2 arrives, and I get a fuse installed. That's when the fun begins :)
 

Justice

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I gather though that the fuse set-up will enable me to experience a 1 ohm coil as if it was a .8 or .9... so for me, that's kind of a must-have modification. I'm on a Reo Mini, so stuck with 14500 batts.

No as a matter of fact putting a fuse in will reduce the voltage minimally but some nonetheless Rob is making a new firing pin etc that will give less voltage drop but its not quite ready yet
 

Vwls

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No as a matter of fact putting a fuse in will reduce the voltage minimally but some nonetheless Rob is making a new firing pin etc that will give less voltage drop but its not quite ready yet

I heard he is working on that... but this is different info on the fuse modification... interesting.
 

Justice

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I heard he is working on that... but this is different info on the fuse modification... interesting.

The fuse minus the spring would be less loss but that's not the best setup your relying on electronics instead of a mechanical spring for safety.
 

MamaTried

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The fuse minus the spring would be less loss but that's not the best setup your relying on electronics instead of a mechanical spring for safety.

the automotive fuse mod that some have done isn't really electronic.'

Robert thought the concept had merit, but he couldn't go that route, because some idiot would end up replacing the proper fuse with an unsafe one.

i'm pretty sure he had me in mind when he said that

:)
 

Filthy-Beast

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Every wire, connection or circuit saps some of the power(voltage) and turns it into heat. guys who were going sub .5 ohms and melting the firing pin were experimenting with all kinds of things.

the AW IMR 14500 can handle going much lower as long as you don't go below .5 you'll be fine with plenty of safety margin in that number, electrical standards state not to load a wire or circuit beyond 80% of it's max load at .5 ohm your pushing that battery at 52.5% of it's max. The lower the ohm the faster you'll drain the battery, so just have some charged spares.
 

tnt56

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Welcome Vwls.:vapor: I keep several super shorty carto's with me. In case the RM2 gets messed up...(always by me). The 1.7ohm super shorty carto's that I got from Reosmods work really well. About the same height as an RM2. I've also used some standard LR boge 35mm carto's and they weren't to bad. But this is all just my :2c:
 

Vwls

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Every wire, connection or circuit saps some of the power(voltage) and turns it into heat. guys who were going sub .5 ohms and melting the firing pin were experimenting with all kinds of things.

the AW IMR 14500 can handle going much lower as long as you don't go below .5 you'll be fine with plenty of safety margin in that number, electrical standards state not to load a wire or circuit beyond 80% of it's max load at .5 ohm your pushing that battery at 52.5% of it's max. The lower the ohm the faster you'll drain the battery, so just have some charged spares.

So... this is my understanding of it... if someone wiser than me needs to correct me, please don't hesitate to step in here...

But from what I can deduce, the AW IRM 14500 is rated as: 600mah, 4.0A (6.7C).

Max 4 amps.

At 3.7 volts, a .5 resistance coil = 7.4 amps.
.6 = 6.2....
.7 = 5.3
.8 = 4.6
.9 = 4.1

So if these calculations are correct, the only safe resistance for this battery is 1 ohm and higher.

The trick then is to maximize the performance and experience of that 1 ohm coil... That's what I would be trying to do with the fuse modification.

Please please my friends, don't sub ohm without the right battery... I want everyone to stay pretty.
 
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Filthy-Beast

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So... this is my understanding of it... if someone wiser than me needs to correct me, please don't hesitate to step in here...

But from what I can deduce, the AW IRM 14500 is rated as: 600mah, 4.0A (6.7C).

Max 4 amps.

At 3.7 volts, a .5 resistance coil = 7.4 amps.
.6 = 6.2....
.7 = 5.3
.8 = 4.6
.9 = 4.1

So if these calculations are correct, the only safe resistance for this battery is 1 ohm and higher.

The trick then is to maximize the performance and experience of that 1 ohm coil... That's what I would be trying to do with the fuse modification.

Please please my friends, don't sub ohm without the right battery... I want everyone to stay pretty.

We need somebody who knows that battery for sure, I don't have them, I did find three different sites that list them as having a max charge rate of 4.5amps and max continuous discharge of 16A.

when I do the Ohm calculation I use 4.2 volts since a fully charged battery can be that high.
 

brfrompa

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I have a squonking question. Why isn't there a discussion forum called "Squonk Box"?

I agree that the spring is the fuse and more fusing is just spring saving extra resistance. Two more contact points that add resistance and the resistance of the fuse. Meter your coil before you fire it and have an extra spring.

I'm loving the RM2. Until that arrived a HH.357 atomizer worked like a champ, too. LR model. I would recommend it but by the time you wear out two HH atties you could have purchased the wonderful RM2.

10 wraps of 28ga kanthal on a 0.052" drill bit is working for me. I wisp of cotton tucked under the coil and you are in flavor heaven.

It's great that you are making a happy move to REOville!


Brent
 
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