R91 Clone w/ SS wick - great success.

[AMDTrucking]

So you wrap the ribbon around the wick without connecting it, then you wrap the NR exactly around the ribbon as well? like a NR coil on top of the ribbon, or just connect a single piece of NR to the top part and a single piece of NR to the bottom part? Thanks for that though, I think this may take my genesis experience to the next level

Edit: Your pictures seem to clearly show the NR is a attached a single piece to the bottom and a single piece to the top. You had to acquire a wire joiner for that correct?

No sir, you've got it all wrong. Here is what I do (step - by - step)
1. I cut a pies of Kanthal to length based on Resistance I need. I use Temco's Kanthal Resistance table: A-1 0.8 x 0.1 - 5.76 Ohm/Foot.
2. Using my "Dandy" little welder that I made for under $20.00, I Weld Silver Leads to both Ends of Kanthal. That makes it: NR-R-NR
3. Then I wrap my coil and, depending on the size of my Wick, the number of wraps may vary, but the Resistance will be the same.

I think you can see it real well on the picture of my UD AGI:

 

[Glenn_K]

I shamelessly stole that picture from the internet, and I've been wondering how it was set up. It might be a Photoshop collage but, if not, I hope the gun wasn't loaded!

-- Glenn

He's very devious, Glenn.... How did you get the cat to pose like that for you?

 

[SkvLTD]

Just figured what this method is. Neat indeed, but seems a little too tedious IMO. Basically joining wires together however you like- using a crimp bead or simply soldering them together.

 

[AMDTrucking]

Just figured what this method is. Neat indeed, but seems a little too tedious IMO. Basically joining wires together however you like- using a crimp bead or simply soldering them together.

Tedious? For the guy who uses SS Mash Wick on kayfun/Russian? No! It couldn't be.
Crimping, Twisting, Welding but NOT Soldering! Because the solder melts at 600F (315C) and your coil's temperature reaches over 1,000F (537C). Your soldered joint will simply melt down. As for Crimping and Twisting - Those Crimped and Twisted Joints tend to always get in the way, they always end up in places where you don't want them to be. I've tried it all. In my humble opinion, Spark Welding (Spot Welding is the Best way. And it is NOT expensive or hard to do. If you are really interested, here is what you need to do:
1. Watch the Video to see how it works. Here is one for you:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=YOl_Qi6B3to
2. Chose between these 4 options:
1. Purchase the TSAF Greek Welder (the one in the video) here: € 112.27 http://www.e-smokeguru.gr/en/the-tsaf-vrd-wire-welding-machine-de-en.html
2. Purchase similar Welder called Zapper in UK for £42.49 here: Mevs-Mods
3. Order allergy joined/welded wires from other sources like madvapes.com or even fasttech.com
4. The last, but not least: Make your Welder yourself for under $20.00 like I did. I bought the Case (Project Box) and all the wires, switches, battery holder, Banana plugs and Alligators at my local Radio Shack. I bought LM2577 board on eBay for $3.00. Or you can use the new and improved YA11053A and here is how:

I hope you find this information useful.
Best regards.
Mike.

 

[AMDTrucking]

How would you like to get that for $163.27 All 9 of them?

 

[horton]

I shamelessly stole that picture from the internet, and I've been wondering how it was set up. It might be a Photoshop collage but, if not, I hope the gun wasn't loaded!

-- Glenn

Whatever it is, I think it is great. Photoshop is one of those programs that truly is Greek to me..lol.... thanks for letting me know....

 

[SkvLTD]

And so, simply having NR wire be the lead automatically eliminated all hot spots?

 

[horton]

And so, simply having NR wire be the lead automatically eliminated all hot spots?

My boneheaded way of thinking of NR leads is they don't have enough resistance to back up the electrons and make them glow with anger....lol Indeed they do eliminate hot spots however they work.

 

[AMDTrucking]

And so, simply having NR wire be the lead automatically eliminated all hot spots?

My boneheaded way of thinking of NR leads is they don't have enough resistance to back up the electrons and make them glow with anger....lol Indeed they do eliminate hot spots however they work.

Guys, simple Physics: The less Resistance = the more Electrons can pass through unrestricted. Granted, NR has to be thick enough to allow enough Electrons to travel without bumping one into another. Simple enough?
That said, 28 GA Silver wire is plenty sufficient to power up 28 GA or 26 GA, or 0.8mm Ribbon. It will make it Glow Bright without any Energy loss on the way to and from your Coil that is wrapped around your Wick in it's entirety. All 100% of your Kanthal is put to work on Vaporizing your juice and no energy is wasted like in case without NR. You completely eliminate "HOT LEG" issue, but you could still have "Hot Spots" in the middle of your coil if it is sloppy. Also, your Battery is being used more proficiently therefore will last longer too.
Just take a look at these three last builds of Arnold, RSST and Nimbus and you'll understand how it works:

In case of this Nimbus, 28 GA Silver leads are just easier to thread through the holes in the posts than 0.8mm Ribbon.

Here is another one: I've got Fast Tech's cheap Omega that has all of it's holes all in the wrong places! Crooked Omega!
The Air holes are not where they supposed to be and your Coils always end up not in front of the Airflow. That's bad. Also, the wire holes in those 3 posts are facing every which way except the right way. My friend wanted to throw it away, but I decided to try to salvage it. Here is how: Using NR-R-NR, I made those Non Resistant leads long enough to allow me to move my Coils to where they belong - Lined up with the Air holes. As you know, the length of the Non resistant leads is not going to add significantly more resistance to overall resistance of the coil. Yes, I could have drilled new Air holes instead. Then, because Omega has a very deep well, it makes it harder to thread the Wicking material through the Coil. But because I have such long Non Resistant leads on my coils, I lifted the coils up, above the edge of the well, installed my wicks and then lowered the coils (with cotton wicks in them) back down in the well where they belonged. It is now a completely vapable RDA. See for yourself:

 

[horton]

Only problem with the NR-R-NR is the hassle of making the dang things up. Drove me nuts trying to get those little wires lined up to get a solid weld. Hot legs never were that bad of a issue for me to keep fiddling with the welder. It was fun making it though.... hadn't had a good project for a while...lol

 

[AMDTrucking]

Only problem with the NR-R-NR is the hassle of making the dang things up. Drove me nuts trying to get those little wires lined up to get a solid weld. Hot legs never were that bad of a issue for me to keep fiddling with the welder. It was fun making it though.... hadn't had a good project for a while...lol

I'm glad you liked it. I use Jeweler's Magnified Head visor to make me see better when joining the wires. Also, do not try to ".... Weld" those wires. It's doable but requires a lot of skills. Overlap them a little bit and they will join together better.

I now do all of my Rebuildables this way. What could be better, when making a dual coil setup, to be able to cut two pieces of Kanthal of the same length, and be guaranteed that both coils will have exactly the same resistance?
One more thing though: When wrapping your Kanthal around Stainless Steel Mash wick, make sure that your NR is not going to touch your wick. If it does - it will short! The high conductivity of Silver/Nickel wires is working against you if it is touching SS Mash.

 

[brickfollett]

I'm glad you liked it. I use Jeweler's Magnified Head visor to make me see better when joining the wires. Also, do not try to ".... Weld" those wires. It's doable but requires a lot of skills. Overlap them a little bit and they will join together better.

I now do all of my Rebuildables this way. What could be better, when making a dual coil setup, to be able to cut two pieces of Kanthal of the same length, and be guaranteed that both coils will have exactly the same resistance?
One more thing though: When wrapping your Kanthal around Stainless Steel Mash wick, make sure that your NR is not going to touch your wick. If it does - it will short! The high conductivity of Silver/Nickel wires is working against you if it is touching SS Mash.

Good advice, however, I would hope that most of us would be able to put that together by now. That's just the inherent challenge of mesh is the shorting. I have heard of people hooking up the NR to the top of the mesh, and hooking it up to a lower part of the mesh and USING THE MESH AS THE COIL!!!

How nuts is that? Maybe I misread somebody, but I'm pretty sure I read that. I would love to see somebody do that!

 

[AMDTrucking]

Good advice, however, I would hope that most of us would be able to put that together by now. That's just the inherent challenge of mesh is the shorting. I have heard of people hooking up the NR to the top of the mesh, and hooking it up to a lower part of the mesh and USING THE MESH AS THE COIL!!!

How nuts is that? Maybe I misread somebody, but I'm pretty sure I read that. I would love to see somebody do that!

I'm sure you've misread it because Stainless Steel is NOT a Resistance metal, it conducts well. By connecting wires to the Mash Wick - you are deliberately creating a Dead Short Circuit which will result in your Battery venting (destroying). I guarantee that!

 

[AMDTrucking]

My new toy: Hades with Arnold. Pretty sick?

9" toll and 1.5" wide

 

[horton]

That's a cool looking device, AMD. ..... 9" of joy.... You sure know how to match up the different components for best performance.....

 

[AMDTrucking]

I knew you were going to make a sexual reference to 9" MOD. Who wouldn't LOL

 

[horton]

I knew you were going to make a sexual reference to 9" MOD. Who wouldn't LOL

Don't believe that was a sexual reference -- just a comment on the size of the device. I'll be more careful with my wording in the future.

 

[DejayRezme]

How do you avoid getting hot spots with SS mesh rolls? I'm trying to rebuild a nautilus head with a SS roll. I made a tension wrapped contact micro coil, stick a torched SS roll in there and getting hot spots. With the nautilus head it's partially the legs, but when I move them to sit right I still got one of the middle wraps to glow much brighter than the rest. This would indicate a short?

 

[AMDTrucking]

How is this for a successful Mash build?

 

[AMDTrucking]

How do you avoid getting hot spots with SS mesh rolls? I'm trying to rebuild a nautilus head with a SS roll. I made a tension wrapped contact micro coil, stick a torched SS roll in there and getting hot spots. With the nautilus head it's partially the legs, but when I move them to sit right I still got one of the middle wraps to glow much brighter than the rest. This would indicate a short?

Watch this Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WbbT4PIi2E