Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...

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BJ43

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I haven't tinkered with it, but sounds doable. A zener controlled MOSFET gate would also work.

I could and have been wrong before, but I don't think the gate would bias the Zener enough. Adding a bias resistor would defeat the purpose. If I can dig up a few parts I will test that when I get back to town if someone else doesn't first.

This turned me off on the zener controlled mosfet.
 
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BJ43

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The primary problem with adding another MOSFET, in addition to the reverse polarity MOSFET, is the space required inside the mod for this extra circuitry.

The best solution is a supervisory IC. I was working with that with the OKL2-T20 and what is available for the voltage cutoff we need is teeny tiny (really really teeny tiny :laugh:) smt parts.

And 20 amp slide switches are pretty big for a master switch...:)
 

mamu

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This turned me off on the zener controlled mosfet.

I'm not sure why a MOSFET with the base driven by a voltage divider, including a zener diode, wouldn't work, but on thinking about it you may not get a sharp cutoff and have too much power dissipation from the MOSFET. A comparator though would provide a sharp cutoff for the MOSFET.
 
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mamu

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And 20 amp slide switches are pretty big for a master switch...:)

You don't need a 20A switch.

We were talking about this at breaktru's and David4500 suggested parallel wiring a DPST or DPDT switch. This would double the current rating and lower resistance of the switch. Gotta love this paralleling stuff. :laugh:

dpst-parallel.png


Plus, as breaktru had said, we're not turning on and off the master switch under load. So just need the switch rated high enough to allow current to pass through without the contacts getting hot or causing an unwanted voltage drop.

Craig also said that the switch's contacts can handle higher amps than what the switch is rated for. He also said you can safely assume that a switch rated for certain amps at a particular voltage can be used for higher amp loads at lower voltages.

So all this gives a larger range of what switches we can use. Good stuff. :)
 
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BJ43

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You don't need a 20A switch.

We were talking about this at breaktru's and David4500 suggested parallel wiring a DPST or DPDT switch. This would double the current rating and lower resistance of the switch. Gotta love this paralleling stuff. :laugh:

dpst-parallel.png


Plus, as breaktru had said, we're not turning on and off the master switch under load. So just need the switch rated high enough to allow current to pass through without the contacts getting hot or causing an unwanted voltage drop.

Craig also said that the switch's contacts can handle higher amps than what the switch is rated for. He also said you can safely assume that a switch rated for certain amps at a particular voltage can be used for higher amp loads at lower voltages.

So all this gives a larger range of what switches we can use. Good stuff. :)

Thanks mamu. I have a few slide switches that should work ok. Just thought something automatic would be cool.:)
 

BJ43

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I'm not sure why a MOSFET with the base driven by a voltage divider, including a zener diode, wouldn't work, but on thinking about it you may not get a sharp cutoff and have too much power dissipation from the MOSFET. A comparator though would provide a sharp cutoff for the MOSFET.

I am pretty good at following your step by steps.....:laugh:
 

mamu

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Thanks mamu. I have a few slide switches that should work ok. Just thought something automatic would be cool.:)

I hear ya. I was really disappointed that the supervisory IC at the cutoff voltage we need is only available in an ant size package and needs a proper PCB to mount on, so I kinda put off searching other ways.

I haven't given up though. I want to do a lipo pack mod with the Raptor like you did, but it freaks me out what you went through. It was a learning experience for both of us. So yeah, we need surety, especially for lipo mods.

I am pretty good at following your step by steps.....:laugh:

lol

Sometimes I wish someone would give me step by steps. I don't have an electronics background so I learn as I go on an as needed basis. At least my eyes don't glaze over as much nowadays as they did in my first year of modding. :laugh:
 

BJ43

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I haven't given up though. I want to do a lipo pack mod with the Raptor like you did, but it freaks me out what you went through. It was a learning experience for both of us. So yeah, we need surety, especially for lipo mods.

I am really happy with all my lipo pack mods. Even with similar mAh, the high C lipo packs give at least twice the vaping time than the cylindrical cells. Me thinks the mAh ratings on many round cells are exaggerated.:)
 

mamu

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I am really happy with all my lipo pack mods. Even with similar mAh, the high C lipo packs give at least twice the vaping time than the cylindrical cells. Me thinks the mAh ratings on many round cells are exaggerated.:)

I think so too. I love love what the high drain lipos do for us vs cylindrical. And lipos have much much lower internal resistance than cylindrical, so that helps with longer vape times too.
 

Alexander Mundy

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Mosfet does not bias the zener. Adding a bias resistor does give a non linier region as mamu thought. Mamu is on the right track with a comparator and a mosfet for low parasitic draw. I do have some 70's Era comparators in the "drawers of things" but have surgery in the morning so it will have to wait for me to try it.
 

bapgood

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Ok I will admit I did only skim threw the last batch of posts.....That said, am I missing something or wouldn't just using mosfet rated for the needed current be the simplest way and still be able to use a non rated switch?

I like switching the negative side since you can use a n-channel mosfet which typically have lower resistance (rdsON).

Here is a basic diagram and instead of going to the atty they would go the Raptor....and I think you should still be able to use the zener diode for low voltage.


ScreenShot814_zps2114b8a9.jpg
 

BJ43

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Ok I will admit I did only skim threw the last batch of posts.....That said, am I missing something or wouldn't just using mosfet rated for the needed current be the simplest way and still be able to use a non rated switch?

I like switching the negative side since you can use a n-channel mosfet which typically have lower resistance (rdsON).

Here is a basic diagram and instead of going to the atty they would go the Raptor....and I think you should still be able to use the zener diode for low voltage.


ScreenShot814_zps2114b8a9.jpg

On your diagram, can I put a 6.2v zener where you have the switch and it would quit draining the batteries when idle if the voltage on the lipo gets below 6.2v?
Specs on the mosfet? All the higher amp mosfets I look at have a 10v gate.
 
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mamu

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I just ordered a 16A 88W DC-DC Converter to tinker with.

What drew my interest to it is that it has programmable UVLO - I can set low voltage cutoff to what I want with just a single resistor on the inhibit pin. The converter has a nice low profile and size for being a high amp converter.

I'm already planning my lipo build with it. woot! :D
 

BJ43

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I just ordered a 16A 88W DC-DC Converter to tinker with.

What drew my interest to it is that it has programmable UVLO - I can set low voltage cutoff to what I want with just a single resistor on the inhibit pin. The converter has a nice low profile and size for being a high amp converter.

I'm already planning my lipo build with it. woot! :D
Anxiously waiting for your step by step......:)

I highly recommend this battery.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...mah_2S_65_130C_Hardcase_Shorty_Lipo_Pack.html

or this, both are shorties and use 4 lipos 2 P then both of those packs in series.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...600mah_2S2P_90C_Hardcase_Lipo_Short_Pack.html
 
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BJ43

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A little off topic. I've built about 10 raptor boxes using on/off/on switches with the same specs. Is there a certain amp or volt rating I need? Given I would like this part to handle the max of the chip.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you are talking about the on off on switch that controls the source to the meter, it does not have to be a high amp switch. The meter uses very little amperage.
 
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