@Mamu, what type of soldering tip(s) do you prefer for this type of work? Im also looking to get a new soldering station. What would you recommend for say, building one or two mods a week?
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Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
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I swear eveytime I stalk this thread the schematic gets more complex lol, Finally have everything to build one of these, can't wait to get started! also, any suggestions on a kill switch? (skimmed and didnt see any part #'s, forgive me if i missed it)
I never thought anyone would actually run Raptor at 20A, but I guess they are. I updated the wiring guide for 2x 10A fuses then so no inadvertent trip issues if running at 20A.
@ LowOhms - I had been using a Weller 30W for these last years, but recently bought a soldering station with a hot air gun so I can easily remove the cable from the dna board to replace it. But I love my Weller and still use it occasionally. I use the standard conical tips for soldering parts to the converter. If you want to go big and best for a soldering station, I've seen people recommend HAKKO.
@ Stonesourlemon - lol I know the wiring guide was getting confusing each time I added a part, so I tried to simplify it - you should see it if you hit refresh or clear your cache.
I haven't checked into a rated master switch for Raptor. Maybe someone who has can post what they are using. It's going to be big though.
@ LowOhms - I had been using a Weller 30W for these last years, but recently bought a soldering station with a hot air gun so I can easily remove the cable from the dna board to replace it. But I love my Weller and still use it occasionally. I use the standard conical tips for soldering parts to the converter. If you want to go big and best for a soldering station, I've seen people recommend HAKKO.
@ Stonesourlemon - lol I know the wiring guide was getting confusing each time I added a part, so I tried to simplify it - you should see it if you hit refresh or clear your cache.
I haven't checked into a rated master switch for Raptor. Maybe someone who has can post what they are using. It's going to be big though.
I'm looking at the newest wiring diagram and I noticed something different. Didn't you originally have a wire coming from the 510 into the switch? Why is that wire no longer needed?
QUOTE=mamu;13385519]I never thought anyone would actually run Raptor at 20A, but I guess they are. I updated the wiring guide for 2x 10A fuses then so no inadvertent trip issues if running at 20A.
@ LowOhms - I had been using a Weller 30W for these last years, but recently bought a soldering station with a hot air gun so I can easily remove the cable from the DNA board to replace it. But I love my Weller and still use it occasionally. I use the standard conical tips for soldering parts to the converter. If you want to go big and best for a soldering station, I've seen people recommend HAKKO.
@ Stonesourlemon - lol I know the wiring guide was getting confusing each time I added a part, so I tried to simplify it - you should see it if you hit refresh or clear your cache.
I haven't checked into a rated master switch for Raptor. Maybe someone who has can post what they are using. It's going to be big though.[/QUOTE]
Nice, thanks Mamu! Much easier to follow now. Looks like I've got some switch hunting to do lol, a master kill would be nice on such a crazy build.
@ LowOhms - I had been using a Weller 30W for these last years, but recently bought a soldering station with a hot air gun so I can easily remove the cable from the DNA board to replace it. But I love my Weller and still use it occasionally. I use the standard conical tips for soldering parts to the converter. If you want to go big and best for a soldering station, I've seen people recommend HAKKO.
@ Stonesourlemon - lol I know the wiring guide was getting confusing each time I added a part, so I tried to simplify it - you should see it if you hit refresh or clear your cache.
I haven't checked into a rated master switch for Raptor. Maybe someone who has can post what they are using. It's going to be big though.[/QUOTE]
Nice, thanks Mamu! Much easier to follow now. Looks like I've got some switch hunting to do lol, a master kill would be nice on such a crazy build.
How come I run my raptor sometimes at full throttle with a .3 and haven't tripped the 2x 9amp fuses yet. Hmmmmm
Sent from my box mod using a raptor chip
Sent from my box mod using a raptor chip
Because the input is being fused not the output and the fuses are for short circuit protection.
Lets say you are outputting 120W.
Giving say 90% efficiency the input is 133W.
If your input voltage is say 7V then the input amperage is 19A
That is split between the fuses which gives 8A each.
If you are using the 650-RGEF900 fuses then they are rated at 9A hold continuous.
Since fuses are a thermal device they will take larger currents for less than continuous operation.
They don't show a chart, but they will hold 45A each for 5.5 seconds so no worries.
For you folks looking for a master kill switch here's a 20A spst rocker switch that I'm going to use in my mod: 20A spst rocker switch
Switch
I am using this 10 amp clicky on my raptor and so far it seems to work fine. Since this is used for a master on and off, there is no gap spark as you are not using it to fire. It should handle 20 amp flow with no problem.
The Judco switch is one of the only small push button switches that is rated at 10A 14V-DC, and has been pushed beyond that without failing. It has a nice, low 11 mOhm resistance reading on my milliohm testing setup.
It is click on, click off.
I am using this 10 amp clicky on my raptor and so far it seems to work fine. Since this is used for a master on and off, there is no gap spark as you are not using it to fire. It should handle 20 amp flow with no problem.
The Judco switch is one of the only small push button switches that is rated at 10A 14V-DC, and has been pushed beyond that without failing. It has a nice, low 11 mOhm resistance reading on my milliohm testing setup.
It is click on, click off.
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I truly don't understand the want for the 60amp raptor (or similar)????
They only have a 5v max output. I could possibly understand if volt max was higher.....but only maybe
Ditto: My 20 amp 6v raptor is more than I will ever use.
Fact is the only advantage to me over a DNA 30, is that I can get lower voltage on the raptor.
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Putting this together I just realized that using this with a push button switch, it is both a master and a fire switch. I can just remove the fire switch I am using and connect the zener directly from Vin to give me LV cutoff..Ok I will admit I did only skim threw the last batch of posts.....That said, am I missing something or wouldn't just using mosfet rated for the needed current be the simplest way and still be able to use a non rated switch?
I like switching the negative side since you can use a n-channel mosfet which typically have lower resistance (rdsON).
Here is a basic diagram and instead of going to the atty they would go the Raptor....and I think you should still be able to use the zener diode for low voltage.
Depends on the voltage:
At max 6V. .3 ohm is 20 amps 120 watts
At min 3.3V, .165 ohm is 20 amps at 66 watts.
Don't know why you would want a max resistance but probably around 5 ohms would still produce some vapor at 6V and 7.2 watts.
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Ok guys - help me out here. Will this work? Comments/feedback?
Negative batt is isolated from the converter and 510 ground until both the kill switch and fire switch are on. Turn on the master switch, press the fire switch and good to go. Master off = no power, no current drain, or output firing if pressing the fire switch. Master on = no power or current drain unless pressing the fire switch. Non-rated switches for both master and fire switch with current load handled by the N-FET. On/off control pin = open (not connected).
The voltmeter will need to be isolated too with a DPDT switch.
I'm thinking the 47K pull-down may need to be adjusted so the zener voltage won't be affected. Will still get output oscillation when near low input cutoff voltage. I'm also working with the TC54 voltage detector as a possible LVC manager.
Only additional parts added is the N-FET and pull-down resistor. As if we don't have enough circuitry already right?
I've got all the parts to test but the N-FET. As soon as that gets here I'll be able to test the circuit.
Negative batt is isolated from the converter and 510 ground until both the kill switch and fire switch are on. Turn on the master switch, press the fire switch and good to go. Master off = no power, no current drain, or output firing if pressing the fire switch. Master on = no power or current drain unless pressing the fire switch. Non-rated switches for both master and fire switch with current load handled by the N-FET. On/off control pin = open (not connected).
The voltmeter will need to be isolated too with a DPDT switch.
I'm thinking the 47K pull-down may need to be adjusted so the zener voltage won't be affected. Will still get output oscillation when near low input cutoff voltage. I'm also working with the TC54 voltage detector as a possible LVC manager.
Only additional parts added is the N-FET and pull-down resistor. As if we don't have enough circuitry already right?
I've got all the parts to test but the N-FET. As soon as that gets here I'll be able to test the circuit.
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I'm walking out the door to take my weller soldering iron back to the store due to not being able to find replacement tips locally. Sears, RadioShack, and home depot all sell this iron but no tips. What the heck man, come on.
Sent from my box mod using a raptor chip
Sent from my box mod using a raptor chip
Ok guys - help me out here. Will this work? Comments/feedback?
Negative batt is isolated from the converter and 510 ground until both the kill switch and fire switch are on. Turn on the master switch, press the fire switch and good to go. Master off = no power, no current drain, or output firing if pressing the fire switch. Master on = no power or current drain unless pressing the fire switch. Non-rated switches for both master and fire switch with current load handled by the N-FET. On/off control pin = open (not connected).
The voltmeter will need to be isolated too with a DPDT switch.
I'm thinking the 47K pull-down may need to be adjusted so the zener voltage won't be affected. Will still get output oscillation when near low input cutoff voltage. I'm also working with the TC54 voltage detector as a possible LVC manager.
Only additional parts added is the N-FET and pull-down resistor. As if we don't have enough circuitry already right?
I've got all the parts to test but the N-FET. As soon as that gets here I'll be able to test the circuit.
Mine is working as per Baps drawing that seems to be the same as yours. I did not put a kill switch. Since mine is on a lipo I do not have the P-Fet. Vaping it now to see if it quits firing at 6.6V.
I left the 6.2 zener on pin 5 connected to Vin.
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