Anyone have a good build at around .3-.35 that will handle full voltage? Every build I've tried so far has a point where it just can't wick fast enough and burns my cotton. I've also noticed that about 3.8-3.9v feels like a full battery on my copper panzer with a .6 coil and about 3.7v for the .3 coil With this thing not sagging like a regular battery it really hits hard.
Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
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I think that would be the effect of not having any voltage drop from unregulated mods. When I built my first raptor mod I set the volts to 4.2 to simulate a fresh battery in a mech mod with no volt drop and was blown away by the results. It just hit so noticeably harder. Then I set it to like 3.8 and it was about what I would get off my copper mods.
I really never vape my raptor at full throttle. I just find it unnecessary. I will do about a .39 at around 5 - 5.2 volts. I get huge thick clouds and can get about 6 or so nice lung fulls. I do use about a 3mm screw driver to wrap my coils around though so my coils are pretty big, probably bigger than average. I also pretty much drench them with juice so it's almost coming out the airholes. I try and pool it up on around the center post between both coils. Works for me
this is a 28mm stillare clone. used to be 5 post, I pulled two posts out.
two coils of simple 10 wraps of 24gauge with a 3mm hole. comes to 0.45ohms.
snug but not tight cotton wick, straight thru and ends are fluffed.
cotton ends long enough to touch the deck without needing to tuck under/over/around anything.
juice well filled. once I put the top cap on, I can raise the juice level.
This won't dry hit until the deck is dry. I used to use way too much cotton making cotton pillows or twirling it all over the deck and suffered from occasional dry hits... completely unnecessary to pack that cotton in there in my experience. btw, full blast dry hits on a raptor are evil.
You can try 8 wraps 24 gauge, or 10 wraps 22gauge to make it closer to 0.3ohm. I'll probably redo these coils later tonight, 0.45ohms is a bit high.
Edit: 8wraps 22gauge on 3mm rod came to 0.26 ohm, a bit low. I think I found Jesus. Holy Batman. Might be pushing the raptor. Oh my lord this is awesome. Full blast too. Poor batteries. They be getting a workout.
two coils of simple 10 wraps of 24gauge with a 3mm hole. comes to 0.45ohms.
snug but not tight cotton wick, straight thru and ends are fluffed.
cotton ends long enough to touch the deck without needing to tuck under/over/around anything.
juice well filled. once I put the top cap on, I can raise the juice level.
This won't dry hit until the deck is dry. I used to use way too much cotton making cotton pillows or twirling it all over the deck and suffered from occasional dry hits... completely unnecessary to pack that cotton in there in my experience. btw, full blast dry hits on a raptor are evil.
You can try 8 wraps 24 gauge, or 10 wraps 22gauge to make it closer to 0.3ohm. I'll probably redo these coils later tonight, 0.45ohms is a bit high.
Edit: 8wraps 22gauge on 3mm rod came to 0.26 ohm, a bit low. I think I found Jesus. Holy Batman. Might be pushing the raptor. Oh my lord this is awesome. Full blast too. Poor batteries. They be getting a workout.
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Ok, larger coil, more wraps of bigger wire. I did 8 wraps 24g on 1/8", dual coil came out .45 ohm. A little higher than I wanted but performs well all the way up. It is a bit sluggish on a mech. Previously on my mech I've been running twisted 28g abyss coils(2-28g twisted then wrapped in SS mesh), 5 wraps on .090", dual coils ~.28 and singles ~.55. With the raptor they would heat up to fast and burn the cotton.
I was thinking about making another OKR box but Mouser is backordered again. I was looking and found this LSS-T/10-W12-C. It looks the same except rated full 60w. Anyone know if it is a good sub?
I was thinking about making another OKR box but Mouser is backordered again. I was looking and found this LSS-T/10-W12-C. It looks the same except rated full 60w. Anyone know if it is a good sub?
Raptor NQR010 10amp/60watt is a great alternative to the OKR-T/10
NQR010A0X4Z GE Critical Power | Sager
i"m looking for another 510 seller i ordered two from Fatdaddy and only received one i have contacted him trough his website and no response. So are there any more sellers that y'all would suggest.
Thanks
dustin
Thanks
dustin
Hey i read every post in this thread preparing to build my first raptor mod.
I got everything on you list except i switched a few was wondering if i could use them instead.
706-30-200|1 - 10PA005
512-1N5234C|1 - 512-1N5233B
650-RGEF900|2 - RGEF1000
581-TAP226K016CRW|2 - C2012X5R1C226K125AC
I plain on using the no idle drain method.
I don't remember seeing a master switch or the on-off-on switch i still need those right?
Edit* also i need 2 of the 220ohm resistors not 1 right?
Thanks alot
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The switch you use is mostly ascetic. Pretty much any momentary normally open switch will work as it doesn't need to carry the load current. If you like the way it looks and it fits you're good.
I chose the higher to not drain my batteries as much. I do have to change them more often than necessary but I'm ok with that. I'd probably go with a lower cutoff if I make another. Really preference here also.
If you want. They are physically bigger and have an unnecessarily high current hold capability.
I don't see why those wouldn't work. I liked the leaded and dipped capacitors for convenience. These are similar to the original capacitors listed by Mamu C3225X5R1C226K250AA except a bit smaller. Curves are a little different but I'm not sure if that matters. I'd probably stick to Mamus suggested caps if you want to go with this style.
A master switch could be nice to disable the fire button for pocket carry. I skipped it as this is planned to be a home box. I didn't list the switch or meter I used. This is the switch 642-MHS223 and I used a 0.28" voltmeter I got off eBay.
If you are adding the reverse polarity indicator, which I also skipped, then you need a second resistor and a LED for that. I figured that with the polarity protection it just wouldn't work and I'd have to look to see if I put them in wrong. Plus i was lazy and didn't have a LED.
Hope this helps.
That sucks, I've bought 4, 2 twice, and didn't have any issues. I'd be surprised if they didn't fix it and send you the other.
Varitubes new ones look good but I haven't bought any yet to know for sure.
I've heard of a few modders who are connecting the pot ground to either pin 3 or pin 10 ground pins instead of the -Trim pin 9.
Was curious about this, as well as why 3 ground pins, so emailed the GE rep. This is the email...
Hi Cynthia
I received your Inquiry:
Comments: I'm working with Naos Raptor 20A - NSR020A0X43Z - and have a question regarding the 3 ground pins 3, 10, and 9. A continuity check shows that they are all 3 connected, but an ohms check shows that pin 9 (-Trim) has a 1.2 ohm difference between either pin 3 or pin 10, and pin 3 and pin 10 have 0.2 ohm between them. Question is why is this and why 3 ground pins and must Rtrim be connected across -Trim pin and +Trim pin, or can Rtrim be connected across pin 10 or pin 3 and +Trim. I'm wiring according to the datasheet and connecting Rtrim across -Trim and +Trim, but am curious as to the need for 3 ground pins. Thanks, Cynthia
Pin 3 and Pin 10 are true ground pins. Pin 9 Trim does tie to Grd but thru another component. Tying Rtrim resistor between Rtrim + and Rtrim is the best way to eliminate any noise issue that maybe picked up in the application from interfering with this reference point. Also there is always a need for Rtrim to be connected internally in case the external connections are broken they module would not go unstable.
I hope this answers your question
Regards
Michael Naglich
What I think the rep means from his last sentence is that if pot ground (or Rtrim if not using a pot) is not connected to -Trim pin 9 and is instead connected to either pin 3 or pin 10 and the pot fails (or the resistor fails if not using a pot), the converter will become unstable. The converter should default to its low output voltage (0.6v) if the pot fails (as long as the unused outer leg of the pot is tied to ground along with the wiper), so not sure if this is what the rep means by unstable that it won't default to low output voltage, or if it is something else that would make the converter unstable.
Was curious about this, as well as why 3 ground pins, so emailed the GE rep. This is the email...
Hi Cynthia
I received your Inquiry:
Comments: I'm working with Naos Raptor 20A - NSR020A0X43Z - and have a question regarding the 3 ground pins 3, 10, and 9. A continuity check shows that they are all 3 connected, but an ohms check shows that pin 9 (-Trim) has a 1.2 ohm difference between either pin 3 or pin 10, and pin 3 and pin 10 have 0.2 ohm between them. Question is why is this and why 3 ground pins and must Rtrim be connected across -Trim pin and +Trim pin, or can Rtrim be connected across pin 10 or pin 3 and +Trim. I'm wiring according to the datasheet and connecting Rtrim across -Trim and +Trim, but am curious as to the need for 3 ground pins. Thanks, Cynthia
Pin 3 and Pin 10 are true ground pins. Pin 9 Trim does tie to Grd but thru another component. Tying Rtrim resistor between Rtrim + and Rtrim is the best way to eliminate any noise issue that maybe picked up in the application from interfering with this reference point. Also there is always a need for Rtrim to be connected internally in case the external connections are broken they module would not go unstable.
I hope this answers your question
Regards
Michael Naglich
What I think the rep means from his last sentence is that if pot ground (or Rtrim if not using a pot) is not connected to -Trim pin 9 and is instead connected to either pin 3 or pin 10 and the pot fails (or the resistor fails if not using a pot), the converter will become unstable. The converter should default to its low output voltage (0.6v) if the pot fails (as long as the unused outer leg of the pot is tied to ground along with the wiper), so not sure if this is what the rep means by unstable that it won't default to low output voltage, or if it is something else that would make the converter unstable.
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I would also like to know. I'm still following the first diagram only using 1 positive pin and snipping the other. If there is a better way I would also like to know. I don't want anything going "unstable"
Hey guys and gals, I've been reading and watching tons of information over the last few weeks and am finally starting to at least somewhat grasp this build and want to build one for myself. I would like to use the original post's diagram and parts but had a few questions I'm sure someone can answer. First off the part number for the fuses is for 2x 9 amp fuses but the diagram says 10 amp on the fuses, whats the part number for the 10 amp fuses shown on the diagram, or can the full range of the raptor be used with the 9 amp fuses listed? Second there is no P-FET part number listed so is this one ok to use (mouser # 726-IPD042P03L3G) if not can you recommend one thats compatible for this build? And finally the parts list shows a 7.5K ohm resistor but the diagram says 4.7k so is this the proper part number for the resistor shown in the diagram (mouser # 271-4.7K-RC) Thanks in advance for any help!!!
Now, I'll preface this with the fact that I am FAR from an electrical engineer. I've done a lot with audio electronics and computers, but I'm like you; I've learned most of what I have through self study and experimentation.
From what I can tell from the datasheet, since it's still essentially a sine wave output (Fig 31, 39, and 41), the module still acts as an amplifier in a way. Instability would be akin to feedback - that ringing you hear when someone is using a microphone too close to a speaker and starts a feedback loop. The module is designed for power supply usage (probably computers from the 3.3V and 5.5V availability). On the input, we don't have to worry about inductance, since it's a battery, and is essentially just a solid resistance. However, since we use coils for the output, which are, by definition, inductors, this may lead to instability in the module. Thankfully, the wave is extremely small in relation to the voltages and currents we're using and the coils are resistance wire and don't allow enough of an internal field to develop to be of much concern.
I would err on the side of caution and use pin 9, since that's what the chip is designed to use for trim. It's a lot more relevant if a design is using the "Tunable Loop" feature. The feature is used for tightening up tolerances for sensitive electronics (again computers and such). Such as for large swings like when a CPU throttles up. Our outputs are fixed between pulls, so it's just a fancy extra feature that the module is capable of. Again though, just to be on the safe side, I'd still use pin 9, instead of 3 or 10.
I've ordered a bunch of stuff from FDV. I had an issue with poorly performing 26650 batteries that would not work on my raptor box, so I messaged him thru facebook, he stated they were known to be a bit "limp" and straight out refunded my money and didn't even want me to return them as he wouldn't resell a "used" product. Customer appreciation can't get any better than this if you ask me.
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