Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
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I am back to harass you wonderful people. I have been messing with this one raptor box off and on for the last couple months now. As of now it doesn't do anything even though everything looks right. I have a cheapo multimeter on hand. Any suggestions on how to use it to figure out whats wrong? Or what's bad or hooked up wrong? This thing has been driving me up the wall and I just want to throw it away.
Which circuit did you build? Pictures might help if you can get good ones. Otherwise all I got is, check for bridged connections and double check your diagram.
Na, backwards zener just doesn't have low voltage protection. I did that my first time.
I forget which one is is. No master kill switch and no led. Im thinking i fried something at some point.
You could strip it down and just use the basic circuit, cut out the fet, and see if it will work. Easier to check the chip without all the extra stuff.
Note to all builders using aluminum enclosures!
I've seen a large number of pictures of different kinds of home made builds, and I find it disturbing how many of them have minimal to almost no shrink tubing or liquid tape or electrical tape or any other type of insulation covering solder points, fets, the dc-dc converter modules and other components. Aluminum box conducts electricity and it is connecting to the ground via the 510 connector. It only takes one accidental bump on an uninsulated component to touch the ground and short the circuitry. Be safe, be smart and insulate your work!
I've seen a large number of pictures of different kinds of home made builds, and I find it disturbing how many of them have minimal to almost no shrink tubing or liquid tape or electrical tape or any other type of insulation covering solder points, fets, the dc-dc converter modules and other components. Aluminum box conducts electricity and it is connecting to the ground via the 510 connector. It only takes one accidental bump on an uninsulated component to touch the ground and short the circuitry. Be safe, be smart and insulate your work!
For the record I did say that it was unfinished and that I was waiting for a meter before securing and insulating with epoxy.
I did check the zener and it's right. And the diagram that my Tapatalk is showing on page one is how i have it hooked up. Pot, 3 pole switch, fuses, and volt meter. The last time I messed with it the pot was messed up and so was my box. New pot and I started fresh with the new box. I knew it worked before but now it isn't. Nothing looks burnt and I don't see any touching joints.
were you able to find a switch to handle the amperage? I have been searching for a high amp 3pdt switch for my schematic, the one i had that i put in my first box was out of and old panel for a huge hydraulic extrusion press. I am working on something different atm, i willl hopefully have pictures when its done.
couldn't you just have the mosfet handle the load before it goes to the switch?
I found this, could possibly be used to replace the 3pdt on the charging circuit, but I don't know if it will work, I'm not savvy enough of an electrical engineer to come to any conclusions. (and obviously the fets would need to be changed for higher current). Where do those logic points connect?
mosfet - LiPo Battery: series to parallel charging switching circuit - Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange
Any electrical engineers want to chime in?
mosfet - LiPo Battery: series to parallel charging switching circuit - Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange
Any electrical engineers want to chime in?
That looks really promising. As I'm seeing this, with a spdt slide sw you select charge mode or fire mode and the center off acts as no idle drain and master kill.
edit-and it's low current so a micro slide switch should work.
edit-and it's low current so a micro slide switch should work.
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Where would the spdt on-off-on go? what exactly are those logic points? especially the M1 gate (logic 2) should connect somewhere?
I'm a little confused. The listed fets are n-channel so the gate would be positive but I'm having difficulty visualizing how that would actually work. My first thought was that logic 1 and 2 connect to the positive of cell 2 through a spst switch but i keep confusing myself as try to think through the circuit. I'm not sure if I fully understand how mosfets work.
Anyone with actual electronics experience want to chime in? I've been working with electricity in electric motors/HVAC/industrial controls for 20+ years but am just beginning to learn this stuff as a hobby.
Anyone with actual electronics experience want to chime in? I've been working with electricity in electric motors/HVAC/industrial controls for 20+ years but am just beginning to learn this stuff as a hobby.
I agree. Ive seen some on ebay too. I shrink tube all my solder joints even in the abs boxes. Just a good practice anyways.
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