Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...

[TornadoAlley]

What's going to happen if the switch I ordered isn't DPST? This is it http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...Evirtualkey54010000virtualkey540-CRE22F4BBBNE

Since its rated 20A I'm guessing I'm okay? If it was 10A then it would have to be DPST so I could wire it parallel?

 

[mamu]

Correct, if the switch is rated 10A then it would need to be DPST for parallel wiring. So your 20A SPST switch is fine.

 

[TornadoAlley]

Ok thanks a lot!

 

[rhelton]

I'm sure anyone without an electronic background is confused when they first start reading about this build. My head felt like it was gonna explode the first time I read through this device. I recognized the words as english but they might as well have been chinese. Just take your time and get a solid understanding of the parts, what they do, and only then start building. Thats what I did, I researched this build for several weeks before even considering buying my first part. Take your time with it, it's so worth it because it's really neat to vape on such a beastly device that you built yourself. Check out the no idle drain circuit diagram on page 33, it's only about 3 dollars worth of extra parts and about 2 minutes of extra work and you get the added benefits listed for that build. I hadnt soldered in over 20 years so if I could do it, just about anyone can. IMO the hardest part, once you understand what your doing, is fitting and organizing everything into the enclosure. Oh yeah and many of the parts are dirt cheap so try to at least by double what you need for as many of the parts as you can besides stuff like battery sled, enclosure. And finally if you do decide to complete this or any of these builds, all I can say is welcome to your new addiction!!

That is a great post and great advice. I studied for a month at least to get a grasp on things, I just recently did a 10a Raptor with all props to Mamu as it would still be Chinese without her help.

 

[juggalofisher88]

Ok just to make sure when wiring the screen.
The screen neg- goes to batt-
Then the screen pos+ goes to middle pin in (on-off-on) slide switch.
Then the two outside pins on switch, one goes to batt+ and the other goes to vOUT on raptor board?
And i can use this screen also right?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=131059255465&globalID=EBAY-US&alt=web

 

[Joshleeman]

and the other goes to vOUT on raptor board?

Or 510+

Ok so Ive been vaping on my raptor for a week now and its working great, first build so I'm very excited. Anyways I have 2 questions regarding vout that I'm experiencing on my mod. First off my voltage at 510 is 5.98, what causes it to be below 6? Is it poor soldering, cheap pot, ect and is that normal? And the second thing I noticed is as soon as the button is pressed the voltage at the 510 instantly goes to about 6.2ish for not even a full second and then it drops to 5.98 and stays there as long as button is held. My build is the no idle drain circuit, sense pins wired to vout/grnd pin 1.

For my next build I want to use one of those pv6 illuminated fire button and had a question about how it should be wired using the no idle current drain circuit. The button has 2 pins for the light and 2 for the switch so from everything I read in relation to installing it on other types of mods, I'm guessing I use the 2 button pins like a normal button and then to power the led I put a 100ohm resistor from one of the button pins to the pos led pin on the switch. My question is, does it matter which pin I run the resistor from and what should I do for the led neg pin. I obviously want the light to come on when button is pressed. Ive read several different things online as to how the button is wired but there all different and none were specific to the no idle drain raptor so I'm kinda stuck. Thanks everyone!!

 

[texanator]

Voltage drop - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

for the illuminated firing button... logically thinking... positive side from the firing button Vin leg and negative side from Raptor ground (not battery ground). When firing button is pressed, the n-fet connects raptor ground to battery ground and the led will illuminate and once you let go of the firing button, the n-fet disconnects raptor ground from battery ground (thus also no idle drain).

 

[markbarnaby]

Following the OP diagram, isn't there any way to relocate the master switch to be able to use a non-rated master switch instead? Basically just to disable the firing switch so it won't fire if you don't want it to. TIA

 

[mamu]

Following the OP diagram, isn't there any way to relocate the master switch to be able to use a non-rated master switch instead? Basically just to disable the firing switch so it won't fire if you don't want it to. TIA

Insert the non-rated master switch between the P-FET Source and Fire switch - both switches then will have the advantage of the low current from on/off control. The master switch won't stop the idle current drain as it's not a power disconnect switch, but will prevent the atty from firing.

 

[markbarnaby]

Insert the non-rated master switch between the P-FET Source and Fire switch - both switches then will have the advantage of the low current from on/off control. The master switch won't stop the idle current drain as it's not a power disconnect switch, but will prevent the atty from firing.

Thanks Mamu! Forgive my poor electronics, if doing this, must the P-FET source have a direct connection to Vin? Also, what is the advantage of using the OP diagram (w/ the rated master switch) from this? The OP doesn't also stop idle drain anyway right?

 

[mamu]

Thanks Mamu! Forgive my poor electronics, if doing this, must the P-FET source have a direct connection to Vin? Also, what is the advantage of using the OP diagram (w/ the rated master switch) from this? The OP doesn't also stop idle drain anyway right?

It doesn't matter as Source is still connected to Vin through the switches' connections.

The diagram with the master switch wired as shown in the OP disconnects power, so yes, it does stop idle current drain.

 

[TornadoAlley]

Ok so I'm just waiting on a pot from Texanator, a battery sled for mouser, and 510 connector from varitube since FDV was out. Where can I pick up copper wire by the foot or a small amount like 5ft? Prefer local pick up but will buy online if I have to. I was thinking maybe Radio shack or Homedepot?

 

[mamu]

And now we're about to have copperFill available for our home 3D printers - CopperFill

As for durability with my Avani bronzefill 3D printed case - last week I tripped and dropped <shudder > the mod onto our concrete driveway - not a crack or even a dent, only a small scratch in one corner is all.

 

[markbarnaby]

Oh so that's how you did it..never knew about 3d printing til now! Hey mamu, again sorry for bugging you, in that 1590g build on p44, I noticed 2 small slide switches. Both non-rated? Pls. don't say you crammed the no idle drain build in that tiny box!

 

[texanator]

Ok so I'm just waiting on a pot from Texanator.

I mailed your 3 pots on Friday. Regular USPS mail. Avpnut's 10 pots will go out on Monday.

 

[avpnut]

I mailed your 3 pots on Friday. Regular USPS mail. Avpnut's 10 pots will go out on Monday.

Thank you very much

 

[mamu]

Oh so that's how you did it..never knew about 3d printing til now! Hey mamu, again sorry for bugging you, in that 1590g build on p44, I noticed 2 small slide switches. Both non-rated? Pls. don't say you crammed the no idle drain build in that tiny box!

Yes, both slide switches in the 1590G are low current. One is on/off/on for the voltmeter and the other is an on/off master switch inline between Source and the fire switch like I posted before for using a non-rated master switch, so it is not a power disconnect switch is only for preventing the atty from accidental firing.

I haven't been using the non-idle current drain circuit. I would if I were using lipo batts to power the mod, but I'm using easily removable 18650 batts. I either charge the batts at low cutoff, or remove them from the mod if I'm not going to be using it for a while.

 

[markbarnaby]

That makes a lot of sense! Thanks again mamu you're awesome and everybody here! Now back to thinking I can actually do this.

 

[TornadoAlley]

Does it matter how the fuses are parallel. What I mean is I noticed that you can see a wire going through the center of fuse, do I put the wire on the same side (when touching) back to back or what? Sorry if this has been discussed.
To clarify can either leg of one fuse be connected to either leg of the other.

 

[texanator]

either leg to either leg on the fuses, they have no polarity.