Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...

[TornadoAlley]

Thank you Tex I searched and could only find one pic that showed clearly, and didn't see anything in the product specs. It was driving me nuts. Do you suggest buying a Dremel/rotary tool or a Normal drill with a stepped bit? Or can I find a stepped bit that fits a Dremel?

And how do I determine what size holes to drill? Measure each part and drill or start small and go bigger til each part fits, ie 510 connector, pv5 fire button, pot from you, maybe the voltmeter.

 

[texanator]

TornadoAlley,
You can get by with a regular drill and regular drill bits. The Hammond enclosures are aluminum which is a soft metal. There is no need for a stepper bit. If you want to step it, then drill with a regular smaller drill bit, then a bigger one and then the final size (I don't see why you would need to, but you can). For rectangular holes, drill round holes and/or use a dremel with cut off wheels or grinder bits. Or even manually with a small flat metal file.

I use digital calipers to measure thicknesses. If you don't have calipers, well, you could just eyeball with the part in your hand and a drill bit in another hand, when they look about the same, drill a hole into cardboard, wood, something, try if the part fits. If the part doesn't fit, switch to a different drill bit. Repeat. You only need to remember: "You can always drill a hole bigger".

 

[TornadoAlley]

TornadoAlley,
You can get by with a regular drill and regular drill bits. The Hammond enclosures are aluminum which is a soft metal. There is no need for a stepper bit. If you want to step it, then drill with a regular smaller drill bit, then a bigger one and then the final size (I don't see why you would need to, but you can). For rectangular holes, drill round holes and/or use a dremel with cut off wheels or grinder bits. Or even manually with a small flat metal file.

I use digital calipers to measure thicknesses. If you don't have calipers, well, you could just eyeball with the part in your hand and a drill bit in another hand, when they look about the same, drill a hole into cardboard, wood, something, try if the part fits. If the part doesn't fit, switch to a different drill bit. Repeat. You only need to remember: "You can always drill a hole bigger".

Thank you for the clear advice. And thanks for the good packaging with the pots, very much appreciated.

 

[mamu]

 

[rhelton]

And now we're about to have copperFill available for our home 3D printers - CopperFill

As for durability with my Avani bronzefill 3D printed case - last week I tripped and dropped <shudder > the mod onto our concrete driveway - not a crack or even a dent, only a small scratch in one corner is all.

Wow can you imagine how beautiful a mod would be printed in that.

 

[texanator]

Wow can you imagine how beautiful a mod would be printed in that.

Heh, give it a week or two and Mamu will blow your socks off with the pictures

 

[exnihilo]

I don't think the copper filament had been released, yet. If you're looking for conductive filament, there are a couple ABS options available on Makergeeks.

Tapa-shutup

 

[Greg Figlar]

can i wire a three wire volt meter into this

 

[markbarnaby]

This maybe obvious to all but please confirm I'm using 18&22 awg wires. TIA!

510 Gnd - 18awg
Pin10 Gnd - 18awg
Pin1 Vout - 18awg
Pin2 +Trim - 22awg
Pin5 On/off to fire switch - 22awg
Pin6 Vin to fire switch - 22awg
Pin9 -Trim - 22awg
Pfet source to fire switch - 22awg
Pfet drain to (Fuse&Batt+) - 18awg
Pfet Gnd - 22awg

 

[texanator]

Pin5 On/off to fire switch - 22awg -yes, but don't forget the zener and put it the right way, ring away from raptor
Pin6 Vin to fire switch - 22awg -This carries the load, make it 18ga
Pfet source to fire switch - 22awg -This carries the load, make it 18ga

 

[juggalofisher88]

Ok before i start soldering; the only resistor that has polarity is the zener? Right?
Also do The caps have polarity; i remember reading something about it but can't remember...
Thanks

 

[exnihilo]

My apologies, the copper PLA is right here:

http://3dfilamenta.com/en/special/229-frosted-copperfill-filament-175mm.html

Tapa-shutup

 

[texanator]

Ok before i start soldering; the only resistor that has polarity is the zener? Right?
Also do The caps have polarity; i remember reading something about it but can't remember...

zener is not a resistor, it's a diode. it has polarity.
ceramic caps do not have polarity. electrolytic caps have polarity.

 

[juggalofisher88]

zener is not a resistor, it's a diode. it has polarity.
ceramic caps do not have polarity. electrolytic caps have polarity.

Thanks i figured it out rereading the first couple pages, i have all the resistors, the caps, and the zener soldered onto the raptor. I have the resistor soldered to the nfet.
And everything tinned and ready to go.
Just need to figure out where to use the 18g. Spelled out for me lol.

Also the 510 i have is gonna be grounded to the box im assuming this won't be a problem.. Will it?
Figuring out where to solder the neg- on the 510 gonna suck because it don't have the direct solder point like the new FDV connections

 

[texanator]

Also the 510 i have is gonna be grounded to the box im assuming this won't be a problem.. Will it?

Anything non-ground cannot touch the box. Use heat shrink tubing, liquid electrical tape etc. I had a wrong part of a fet make connect with the box and that instantly melted a metal strip under a battery top.

 

[markbarnaby]

Pin6 Vin to fire switch - 22awg -This carries the load, make it 18ga
Pfet source to fire switch - 22awg -This carries the load, make it 18ga

Thanks! This is exactly where I'm confused. Mamu said you can insert a non-rated slide switch between the pfet source and fire switch just to prevent accidental firing. If that's the case do you really need 18ga wire for that connection? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[juggalofisher88]

Okay just to make sure i ojow its been asked but better to ask twice then do it wrong lol.
Using the diagram from page33, no idle drain, unrated switches.
18g
Batt+ > fuses > pfet-d;
pfet-s > Vin
Batt- > pfet-g;
Batt- > nfet-s;
nfet-d > pin10;
Vout > 510+
pin10 > 510-

Also how should i wire the zener?
Would it work band facing Vin pin straight to on/off pin?
Then fire switch to Vin and pfet-s?

Or does the fire switch wire to on/off pin, with the zener wired same as above?
Thank a billion again guys you rock!
Can't wait so close i can taste it...

 

[TornadoAlley]

I tried asking a couple questions on a fb group and got my ... reamed just cuz I'm new to this. You guys have actually taught me even with annoying newbie questions. I just want to thank everyone who's helped me so far. This entire forum is the place to be. Even if it takes longer to get responses. It's worth the wait.

 

[mamu]

can i wire a three wire volt meter into this

Yes - connect the red and white (some are green) wires to the same location on the middle leg of the on/off/on slide switch and the black wire to ground.

Thanks! This is exactly where I'm confused. Mamu said you can insert a non-rated slide switch between the pfet source and fire switch just to prevent accidental firing. If that's the case do you really need 18ga wire for that connection? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

You need 18AWG from Source to Vin as it's a current load. If you insert one leg of a switch between Source and Vin, the wire still needs to be 18AWG. If you tie the other leg of the switch to on/off control, a current load does not flow across the switch's contacts when pressing the switch so you can use a non-rated switch.

24AWG to and from the master and fire switches would be wired like this (I think I'll also update the OP diagram to reflect this wiring so no confusion about wire gauge):

 

[mamu]

Okay just to make sure i ojow its been asked but better to ask twice then do it wrong lol.
Using the diagram from page33, no idle drain, unrated switches.
18g
Batt+ > fuses > pfet-d;
pfet-s > Vin
Batt- > pfet-g;
Batt- > nfet-s;
nfet-d > pin10;
Vout > 510+
pin10 > 510-

Also how should i wire the zener?
Would it work band facing Vin pin straight to on/off pin?
Then fire switch to Vin and pfet-s?

Or does the fire switch wire to on/off pin, with the zener wired same as above?
Thank a billion again guys you rock!
Can't wait so close i can taste it...

Gate of both FETs is low current so aok for 24AWG wires. Drain and Source of both FETs are current load so 18AWG. You can always err on the side of caution and wire any connection with 18AWG, but not vice versa meaning that a current load connection should not be wired with 24AWG.

Zener can be placed across on/off control and Vin with band facing Vin, then one leg of fire switch connected to Vin.