I think this is the part # Mamu posted earlier for those fuses. 652-MF-LR900/20-0
Raptor Flip-Top VV Mod with 20A, 120W dc/dc converter...
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Those strip fuses are 9A, so you are setting 18A limit, not 20A?
I highly recommend building your first box into a 1590B unless you are very skilled. 1590G is tight, very tight, so tight that you need to dremel the aluminum box and the dual battery sled to get you 2-3mm more room sideways. (Using two single battery sleds in a 1590G is possibly a lost cause to begin with).
You may have seen the pictures of Mamu's 1590G box build, you have no idea how difficult that is to build until you have the parts on hand and you start to realize the space requirements.
I'm not posting this to discourage you from trying, I am posting this to hopefully save you from a lot of frustration. Mamu is an _expert_ box builder, she has built more boxes than most of us ever will. Her 1590G box build was 2 days of work. If it takes 2 days for an expert, it might be too much for a first timer to get it completed.
I am using my crude 1590B box and I have most of the parts to start building a 1590G. Perhaps I suck at building these? To me looks like I need to grind the right side of the aluminum box thinner and remove about 2/3rds of a screw post bottom and also remove about 1mm from the right side of the battery sled. All this to buy enough space for the raptor chip on the left side. I haven't had the time to sit down and fully fit everything in it, been too busy rehabbing a house, maybe in a few weeks time. I'm not in a hurry, I have a large B-box, even if a clunker, it works and keeps my vaping needs satisfied.
I'm planning on putting in the pfet and nfet circuitry in my G-box. However, I am not planning on using the led&resistor, no master switch, no 3-way switch, no voltage display. I know how a box will "behave" after using my current box so a volt meter&switch would be unnecessary eye candy (for me) and a major headache to fit in.
Can anyone recommend an alternative plastic box for the G and B boxes? or something in the middle of those two sizes?
I highly recommend building your first box into a 1590B unless you are very skilled. 1590G is tight, very tight, so tight that you need to dremel the aluminum box and the dual battery sled to get you 2-3mm more room sideways. (Using two single battery sleds in a 1590G is possibly a lost cause to begin with).
You may have seen the pictures of Mamu's 1590G box build, you have no idea how difficult that is to build until you have the parts on hand and you start to realize the space requirements.
I'm not posting this to discourage you from trying, I am posting this to hopefully save you from a lot of frustration. Mamu is an _expert_ box builder, she has built more boxes than most of us ever will. Her 1590G box build was 2 days of work. If it takes 2 days for an expert, it might be too much for a first timer to get it completed.
I am using my crude 1590B box and I have most of the parts to start building a 1590G. Perhaps I suck at building these? To me looks like I need to grind the right side of the aluminum box thinner and remove about 2/3rds of a screw post bottom and also remove about 1mm from the right side of the battery sled. All this to buy enough space for the raptor chip on the left side. I haven't had the time to sit down and fully fit everything in it, been too busy rehabbing a house, maybe in a few weeks time. I'm not in a hurry, I have a large B-box, even if a clunker, it works and keeps my vaping needs satisfied.
I'm planning on putting in the pfet and nfet circuitry in my G-box. However, I am not planning on using the led&resistor, no master switch, no 3-way switch, no voltage display. I know how a box will "behave" after using my current box so a volt meter&switch would be unnecessary eye candy (for me) and a major headache to fit in.
Can anyone recommend an alternative plastic box for the G and B boxes? or something in the middle of those two sizes?
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Are there different fuses to achieve the 20A limit? Or are these sufficient? Thank you for your input! I have six raptor modules. I will buy both G and B boxes, just trying to buy smallest components recommended. I feel I can put the G components in my Bs as well. Smaller wont hurt anything [emoji1]
According to the spec sheet on these they hold 9A and will trip 16A and should hold 20A for 40 seconds each. They should be more than sufficient.
edit - plus they don't make this one any higher. You can use 650-RGEF1000 but these are the other style ones and bigger.
edit - plus they don't make this one any higher. You can use 650-RGEF1000 but these are the other style ones and bigger.
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On further investigation of the spec sheet. There is is a heat factor so if the box is hot it will trip more quickly. If you plan on chain vaping at 120w it could get hot and nuisance trip. Personally I'd rather it trip occasionally than risk blowing the board.
So I decided to investigate the Raptor spec sheet and from what I can see at 45 deg C(113F) with no air flow running 6V the raptor gets derated to about 15.5A. At 55C it goes down to about 14.5A. So what I'm getting at is that as the components get hot they aren't quite able to perform to top specs in fact at 6v with no airflow you can never safely hit 20A according to the spec sheet.
I didn't study the spec sheets, I've only done field testing 
I just pop in .3 ohmish coils, fresh batteries, crank it to full, and it vapes like nothing else.
Had a slight cold/flu for the past 6 days, today has been the first day I'm back to full throttle vaping without coughs,the vapor and the flavor is out of this world. I'm still in love with my raptor. Contemplating on cutting down to 1.5mg nic.
I just pop in .3 ohmish coils, fresh batteries, crank it to full, and it vapes like nothing else.
Had a slight cold/flu for the past 6 days, today has been the first day I'm back to full throttle vaping without coughs,the vapor and the flavor is out of this world. I'm still in love with my raptor. Contemplating on cutting down to 1.5mg nic.
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That would be a chuff enuff cap from coval vapes. Works on tobh and stillare. Awesome as ever. 1591BBK - 1590B in abs
Been on this post regularly for months. After completing my OKR box I know how tight it is and I don't think I'm even going to try the G box until I get a couple more builds under my belt. I'm going in the B box with 26650s and planning on doing the full no idle drain circuit from page 33 plus selectable volt meter and see how that all fits. Been doing some test fitting and think it's going to fit well. I have a few more holes to put in my box before I can start soldering. BTW I got my raptor chips today.
What do you think my chances are if I sandwich a Keystone dual 18650 battery holder between two small pieces of plywood and run it thru my table saw ultra slow to shave off 1.25mm? Will it crack?
As long as it doesn't move while cutting I would think it would work. I used a dremel cutoff wheel and basically melted off what I needed to. The rolls of melted plastic pull off pretty easy. It ruins a wheel though.
FYI, I'm getting better runtime with my 26650 KeepPower batteries on less than .5 ohm builds. I don't know what the "Sony"s really are, no markings at all, just a sticker.
Looks like a MNKE sticker. the Sonys are only 2600mAh and should have faint writing on them. It could be under the sticker. Should start SE US26650VT.
Indeed, under the sticker. lol. Where else.
SE US26650VT
T C111GQB11S and that same striped logo.
Edit: I need to get me another set of KeepPowers from RTD Vapor
and complain to my local shop about the Sonys.
SE US26650VT
T C111GQB11S and that same striped logo.
Edit: I need to get me another set of KeepPowers from RTD Vapor
and complain to my local shop about the Sonys.
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I use my Sonys in my mech and they hit great all the way down to .2. They don't last as long as my MNKEs but seem to hit good while they have charge.
All my parts ordered! Will have 6 raptor boxs built in hammond Bs here sithin the next week or two. Looking forward to it. Please bear with me if I need any guidance
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