RBA Pros, please help me with my Fatty V2!!

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jcarabelos

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Hey guys. Have had my Fatty v2 for a couple weeks now. For the first 1.5 weeks I loved it, no complaints. I hadn't quite built the perfect coil but I was progressing. Had issues with getting consistent ohms though. Recently, however, all I get is error messages. I'll back up -- I'm using a provari v1 with a fatty v2 with a 1mm silica wick and 36 awg kanthal wire. Originally my coils ranged from 2.6-3.2 ohms, and it would take me a few tries to get one that would work properly. Lately however, all I get from my provari is error messages: "OP" "LO" and "E1" are the most common. OP essentially means the thing isn't working, LO indicates that the resistance is too low, and E1 says there is a short in the atomizer and I should remove it. With some tinkering I'm able to make a coil with these messages work, but only for a second and then suddenly they stop working entirely. I don't know what I'm doing wrong but despite the fact that my coils look great, are a good length, and are definitely long enough to be above the lowest ohm acceptable for the device, I can't get it to work anymore. Have I screwed up my provari somehow?

My process for building a coil: I torch the silica for 8-10 seconds along its length. I then wrap three coils of the 36 awg kanthal around the silica, attach either end to either post, check the atomizer ohms via the provari, and begin vaping. Like I said, I've had like three to four coils work really well. All of the others work until I put the cap on and vape for a few minutes then suddenly stop working. Help please!!!!! What am I doing wrong????!?!?
 

jcarabelos

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That makes sense, and so I've tried but whenever I wrap even one more coil I get a reading of 3.5-4.0ohms. That's why I was wondering if there's a problem with the provari's readings. But I'm pretty sure I figured out the problem...the metal contact area under the center post was mostly covered in glue - the same glue used to put that post there. It nearly covered all of the contact area, so I scraped it off and voila. Works again. And hey btw I tried responding to your PM a few times and it never posted. But thanks for the help
 

jcarabelos

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3 wraps of 36 should be fine. But what it sounds like to me is a faulty atomizer. One of my phoenixes has similar issues. Try either taking some sandpaper to the battery connection of your fatty, or clean the connection with rubbing alcohol.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

Thanks! That's incredibly helpful, and indeed the sandpaper trick worked!!!!! You're the best!

Enjoy that fatty. I love mine, I'n going to be trying some SS mesh in there this weekend and see how that is.

You might also want to try a lower gauge also, 30-32.

You'll have to let me know how the SS works out for you -- I was tempted to try that but I'm not that courageous quite yet! As for the 30-32 gauge, I have some 28 and 32 lying around, and I have tried a few attempts at building coils with both, but they are so stiff that they begin to shred the silica if I don't get them just right the first time. Any tricks/tips for handling?
 

jcarabelos

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Okay so I was wrong... The problem isn't solved, it's getting worse. I can't even use the damn thing anymore. I have taken all of your advice and still all I get is E1 over and over and over again. My first several coils worked fine, what the heck is happening here? The wire isn't touching the posts or the base, I have done 3, 4, 5, and even 6 wraps with the 36 gauge and still, E1. I have tightened and loosened the posts, still E1. I have made probably 20+ coils, making sure the wire isn't too tight around the silica. Still, E1. I have cleaned the connections with rubbing alcohol and I have used sandpaper, and still E1. I'm beginning to believe this atomizer is faulty. Please help! Should I simply replace this atomizer? Or am I doing something wrong? Help! I need to vape again!!!!
 

jcarabelos

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You should try 32 gauge before you give up. I made my first coil/wick with success using that.

Although you should have no problem with 36, that is kind of an "out of the norm" sized wire. Give 32 a shot.


Well I gave it a few tries. The first attempt I had a glowing coil, no hot spots, perfectly spaced, and it produced mountains of vapor :shock:. I put the lid on, aaaaannnnndddd E1.:glare: Took off the lid, fiddled with it for 45 minutes, E1, E1, E1 :facepalm:. I started fresh, E1. Did another 32 gauge, E1 :censored:. I've never been so frustrated! I really don't understand this....like I said, it was vaping just fine in the beginning, with three coils of 36. The only thing I can think of is the center screw's base is tilted. The washer that the screw tightens on is slanted, and it doesn't seem to screw down flat. Other than that I don't know what to think....as mister helpful mentioned above "it's not that complicated." And for the first week it wasn't. I have some regular atty's on the way, because I can't stand smoking analogues anymore. I've contacted okcvapes.com and we'll see what they say. All I can say is this has been immensely annoying :mad:
 

tobarger

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I believe it is more than about time that your Fatty gets throughly checked out with an Ohm meter

Remove the coil from the atomizer and screw it onto the PV (Do not push the fire button)
Use an Ohm meter between the terminals to be sure it is open
Remove the atomizer from the PV and test with Ohm meter again
First without a coil (should be open), and then with a coil (should be coil resistance)
It is not impossible for the atomizer to have an internal short
I have tested RBAs that had resistance between the positive and negative terminals without a coil

P.S.
If you don't have a meter
Get One
Before you continue to waste your wire and wick material
 
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jcarabelos

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I believe it is more than about time that your Fatty gets throughly checked out with an Ohm meter

Remove the coil from the atomizer and screw it onto the PV (Do not push the fire button)
Use an Ohm meter between the terminals to be sure it is open
Remove the atomizer from the PV and test with Ohm meter again
First without a coil (should be open), and then with a coil (should be coil resistance)
It is not impossible for the atomizer to have an internal short
I have tested RBAs that had resistance between the positive and negative terminals without a coil

P.S.
If you don't have a meter
Get One
Before you continue to waste your wire and wick material

Well this sounds like it just may be the problem. Where would you recommend I buy one?
 

jcarabelos

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Oh I forgot
In the mean time
Make sure your Provari operates normally with other atomizers
To make sure that the Provari is not the problem

Yeah that's why I ordered regular atty's. Didn't have any laying around. Was ......ed and thought "I'll just get my RBA and say goodbye to regular atty's forever!" :facepalm: Good god was I wrong. I'm really worried sick about that though, cause if it fried my ProVari I will likely have a heart attack.
 

MrKV

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Yeah that's why I ordered regular atty's. Didn't have any laying around. Was ......ed and thought "I'll just get my RBA and say goodbye to regular atty's forever!" :facepalm: Good god was I wrong. I'm really worried sick about that though, cause if it fried my ProVari I will likely have a heart attack.

Provaris have short circuit protection and it shouldn't harm it at all.
 
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