RBA Pros, please help me with my Fatty V2!!
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I did 4 wraps of 32, which worked the first time like I said. It was doing marvelous, and was at 2.2 ohms, until I put the cap back on and then it said E1 again. Then I did 5 wraps, and nothing but E1, so I did 4 wraps again and E1 again.
I just built this one to show you guys. It still doesn't work. And it may be difficult to see but there is no contact between the wire and any of the metal.
Didnt read the whole thread but def. Go 30 or 32. But, my problem with the fatty was keeping from touching the bottom. Thats why i traded mine. Coil must be at like a 45 degree from the posts or over them.
I have built several with the coil above the screws, or raised higher, but they still don't work. Although, when it WAS working, it definitely worked best (i.e. produced more flavor and vapor) when the coils were above the screws.
Oh yea also check to see if there is any left over tidbits of coil under your screws take them out clean them and put them back.
When you put the cap on it's hitting the wick which in turn moves the coil into contact with the metal. Either loop your wick ends together so it sits over the neg and pos hex nuts or run your leads a little longer and and run one leg of your wick under the coil, this will keep it from being pushed down onto the base.
It just takes a little playing with it until you find the magic solution. The glass bead method pretty much does away with shorts such as this and only adds a few seconds to a wick/coil build.
Jack
It just takes a little playing with it until you find the magic solution. The glass bead method pretty much does away with shorts such as this and only adds a few seconds to a wick/coil build.
Jack
I can make a phoenix sing i cannot figure those out man. Watch the video by boxedlnmods on you tube. Thats neil from okc vapes. He is the one that setup and sold me mine. Super nice guy.
My next step was to build an ERA which would have done what you're saying to do, but I chose not to try that because I can't get a coil working even with the lid off.
Checked out the video, don't see how anything he does is different from what I'm doing. But I'm going to get that multimeter and will be testing the thing soon. And it's truly unfortunate we both have issues because this thing is so badass when it's working.
Okay I tested with the multimeter. On provari: .3-.4 ohms. Off provari: .3-.4 ohms. Now the real question is whether or not the internal resistance needs to be subtracted, because if it does then there's no internal resistance (when the leads touch it reads .3-.4). I'm starting to believe this is because of the slanted/bent washer resting under the positive screw. When I tighten the center screw down it doesn't sit flat. I find it really hard to believe that I just suck that bad at making coils - like I said, worked perfectly for the first few weeks. Will let you guys know what happens with okcvapes.
PS I found an HR atty and tested it on the provari. No problems, no error messages.
PS I found an HR atty and tested it on the provari. No problems, no error messages.
Okay I think I figured out the problem here guys:
It's hard to really see it, but because the center washer is slanted it comes into contact with the ground screw. Am I crazy or is this the problem?
It's hard to really see it, but because the center washer is slanted it comes into contact with the ground screw. Am I crazy or is this the problem?
It maybe the problem. But whats the fix and what is it shorting out. Those pieces all touch all the time. So what has changed?
If the washer in the center was not tilted, it wouldn't come into contact with the ground screw. Also, I noticed that if I completely unscrew the center screw then you can tell that it screws in quite slanted. So it appears to me that when I bought it, the washer was only slightly slanted, didn't touch the ground screw, and hence no error messages/shorting. After a few weeks use, because the center screw screws in at a slant, it began pushing the washer out further until it made full contact, and then *fart noise* E1's all day. That's my theory, anyway.
That washer touching the ground screw is exactly what would cause the problems you've been having
The .3-.4 ohm readings on/off the Provari, with/without the cap, with/without a coil indicates an atomizer short
I looked at mine and while the edge of the washer is very close there is no way it can touch the ground screw
You found the problem
Nice Job
The .3-.4 ohm readings on/off the Provari, with/without the cap, with/without a coil indicates an atomizer short
I looked at mine and while the edge of the washer is very close there is no way it can touch the ground screw
You found the problem
Nice Job
Thanks! Had plenty of helpful advice to get me there, and so i thank you all! And tobarger, does that mean i shouldnt take the internal resistance of the meter into account? Because if it does matter then the attys resistance is 0 without a coil, because the interal resistance of the leads is .3-.4
0 ohm
.3 ohm
.4 ohm
It doesn't matter
They are all bad readings
Without a coil the resistance between the two terminals should be something like a gazillion ohms
BTW the .3-.4 ohm reading is the meter leads resistance
You would subtract this from any actual resistance readings
.3 ohm
.4 ohm
It doesn't matter
They are all bad readings
Without a coil the resistance between the two terminals should be something like a gazillion ohms
BTW the .3-.4 ohm reading is the meter leads resistance
You would subtract this from any actual resistance readings
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