I have a tesla 220w and a pyro rdta. I build my own coils out of 22ga kanthal. I just built new coils a few days ago. I let my buddy borrow my tank for a few hours after I built the coils, so he can see how he likes the tank. Before I gave it to him, it was reading at a .15 resistance. When I got it back from him, it read a .39. So I just thought that he pushed the old coil button on his mod and that messed up my coils. So when I built new ones, it was reading at a .15 again. Was working well for a few days until it went up to a .48 resistance. I didn't push any buttons other than my firing button, unscrew the tank, or knock any coils loose. When I unscrew it now to see if it will read a .15 again, It just keeps fluctuating from around .38-.43 roughly. Any way to find out why this is happening?
RDTA and mod changing resistance drastically, help
- Thread starter Mason Maddern
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Make sure your screws are tight that hold the coils in, after a little bit of use it is always worth double checking your coils are tight. Also make sure your 510 pin is tight (and the negative post if it is screwed to the deck too).
It's not unusual for a coil to gain resistance over time. My guess is that by running Kanthal at 220 w in power mode the metal is loosing it's molecular integrity. I suggest trying either SS or titanium in the extreme conditions that your attempting. You may be better off with a Clapton coil the added mass of the coil will help.
This is the coil that I've been using with my Pyro's. It's 2mm x 8mm, 9 wraps, SS 22 ga ., comes in at 0.54 ohms. I run it at about 25 watts in power mode, and it delivers the vape I'm after. I prefer a restricted lung hit so I close the air some and run at lower watts. But, I have kicked it up to see how it performed. It takes high watts very well and less spit back because of it's shape. I developed this type coil specifically to take advantage of the open postless deck of the Pyro.
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oh no I'm only vaping around 75 watts or so, thats just the mod I use
So far this worked. It does hit harder than it always has though. Thanks!
Just to mention DO NOT USE titanium in power mode. It is a "temperature control" only wire and will give off undesirable byproducts if you use it in wattage mode. Stainless steel can be used in both modes (wattage and TC) and it's my preferred wire.
It is true that resistance can fluctuate a bit, but I'm not sure it should be doing it quite as much as you are reporting. If you check your coil and all is well, I would try running it on a different mod (if you have one) and see if the readings change. If they changed a bit at first then stabilized that is one thing. If you are fluctuating between 0.15--0.46 that is a fairly significant change. I think some change is normal, although to be honest with kanthal, IDK if such fluctuations could be larger. I know SS changes as it is annealed and heated, but I might also be suspecting a poor connection in the 510 pin, or possibly even the mod reading things inaccurately. If it continues, I might take it to a vape shop to see if they can help out (if you have a decent one near you).
It's entirely possible that things are fine, I'm actually most wary of the fact that unscrewing and then rescrewing the tank onto the mod is "magically" fixing your readings back to 0.15, unless the tank has cooled significantly in the meantime, or etc.
Probably, in your shoes I'd try the deck on another mod, if it reads fine and you've checked the build then I'd start suspecting connectivity issues and etc.
Best of luck,
Anna
It is true that resistance can fluctuate a bit, but I'm not sure it should be doing it quite as much as you are reporting. If you check your coil and all is well, I would try running it on a different mod (if you have one) and see if the readings change. If they changed a bit at first then stabilized that is one thing. If you are fluctuating between 0.15--0.46 that is a fairly significant change. I think some change is normal, although to be honest with kanthal, IDK if such fluctuations could be larger. I know SS changes as it is annealed and heated, but I might also be suspecting a poor connection in the 510 pin, or possibly even the mod reading things inaccurately. If it continues, I might take it to a vape shop to see if they can help out (if you have a decent one near you).
It's entirely possible that things are fine, I'm actually most wary of the fact that unscrewing and then rescrewing the tank onto the mod is "magically" fixing your readings back to 0.15, unless the tank has cooled significantly in the meantime, or etc.
Probably, in your shoes I'd try the deck on another mod, if it reads fine and you've checked the build then I'd start suspecting connectivity issues and etc.
Best of luck,
Anna
All I can say is WOW, what a coil.
I recall you posting in another RDTA thread about using a corndog stick to wrap a coil like this, but didn't think (at least then) that you had ever posted a picture back with the result of the build. Also don't think you gave the specs of the coil in that post either. This is good to know.
That is a VERY interesting coil, and I'll bet it does work well in the Pyro since there is a single wick slot on either end of the deck. Basically just feed a 'sheet' of cotton through it, lol. I'll bet that could give a pretty ridiculous vape if you tweak the coil correctly.
You've really got me wanting to try that now, but I need to order some lower resistance wire for something like that. I just ordered some SS today, but only picked up 26g and 28g. I'm going to need something a littler lower than what I've got, lol. The lowest resistance kanthal I've got is 24g.
Ok, you've given me some things to think about while I'm waiting for more wire to come in, lol. I've definitely got to try this when I get a chance.
All I can say is WOW, what a coil.
I recall you posting in another RDTA thread about using a corndog stick to wrap a coil like this, but didn't think (at least then) that you had ever posted a picture back with the result of the build. Also don't think you gave the specs of the coil in that post either. This is good to know.
That is a VERY interesting coil, and I'll bet it does work well in the Pyro since there is a single wick slot on either end of the deck. Basically just feed a 'sheet' of cotton through it, lol. I'll bet that could give a pretty ridiculous vape if you tweak the coil correctly.
You've really got me wanting to try that now, but I need to order some lower resistance wire for something like that. I just ordered some SS today, but only picked up 26g and 28g. I'm going to need something a littler lower than what I've got, lol. The lowest resistance kanthal I've got is 24g.
Ok, you've given me some things to think about while I'm waiting for more wire to come in, lol. I've definitely got to try this when I get a chance.
No more corndog sticks required. I have recently gotten a 2mm X 8mm machining bar from Amazon. It works great for a flat coil and has around the same resistance as a 6.5mm round coil (if you use wire wizard).
I'm using 2) 3mm drill bits for making a narrower coil for builds on RDAs with Haku type decks. I use 24 ga. and 26 ga. Stainless Steel for most of my coils. I use Titanium for temp control builds. But, I'm not too crazy about the taste of titanium, and temp control just doesn't do it for me. Good luck with the build, if you have any questions, hit me up.
It's been years since I built with Kanthal. SS316L has been my goto wire since TC, but I seldom use TC mode anymore. Wire is wire for my tastes, but others may be able to discern a difference in flavor. I once dry burned Titanium and turned it to ash .
SS is probably the most flexible wire for most modes in a mod. If it does TC and Power Mode, it's good for me.
. SS is probably the most flexible wire for most modes in a mod. If it does TC and Power Mode, it's good for me.
You didn't happen to overlap the coil wire ends under the deck screws, did you? That can reduce wire contact and create some puzzling resistance changes. I always wrap 3/4 turn or less and tighten the screw. More than that and you end up with a leg end sitting on top of the wire under the screw.
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