READYxWICK for non cotton people

[cole_bie]

It definitely lasts longer (and wicks better) if it's not too compressed and the big spacing definitely helps. I just started to make my microcoils with a larger inside diameter so the wick can slide freely for cleaning. Took me a while to figure that out, though

What do you use to wrap the slightly larger microcoils. I noticed that after about 3 days I started getting some dry hits. Dry burning fixed the issue, but I guess even a little gunk made the spacing too small.

 

[MasterofNone]

My coils are just about all touching. I use a large paper clip, slipped inside the wick. Hand tensions the coil around the wick, install than hold the coil with my fingers when I pull the clip out. Works for me


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[Coelli]

What do you use to wrap the slightly larger microcoils. I noticed that after about 3 days I started getting some dry hits. Dry burning fixed the issue, but I guess even a little gunk made the spacing too small.

I wrap the coil on a larger-diameter jeweler's screwdriver, then thread it through rather than wrapping directly onto the wick.

 

[oaky]

After 4" of wasted readyxwick I finally learned that if your hand is going in a clockwise(screwing-in) motion as you build your coil on the Artist Wire gizmo, you have to un-screw in the wick,no matter which end you put it in and putting a mandrel,drill-bit screwdriver paper-clip etc into the hollow wick is likely to compress the braid and/or break the individual ceramic filaments when you coil over top and reduce the possible capillary action of the wick.The time,effort,money and materials used was worth it in the end.

 

[Train2]

Just chiming in.
I use XC because I am no good at wrapping or wicking. When I get a vape-able build, I want it to LAST. LOL.
Here's my Russian. I put on the chimney tube with the wick pointing UP, then tucked it in, to rest on the channels.
4 tanks later, it's still wicking along, vaping lovely. I am a fan!

Oh - I put a sewing needle through the middle, and wrapped the coil on the wick.

 

[MacTechVpr]

After 4" of wasted readyxwick I finally learned that if your hand is going in a clockwise(screwing-in) motion as you build your coil on the Artist Wire gizmo, you have to un-screw in the wick,no matter which end you put it in and putting a mandrel,drill-bit screwdriver paper-clip etc into the hollow wick is likely to compress the braid and/or break the individual ceramic filaments when you coil over top and reduce the possible capillary action of the wick.The time,effort,money and materials used was worth it in the end.

I think if I understand you correctly Oaky, I would state it that you should insert the wick threading in the direction of the wind. If you attempt to apply insertion force in the contrary direction the braid tends to unravel. It can be an expensive proposition in terms of time and yes, frustration. And I agree completely that trying to hand wind over any directional wick media like Nextel can crimp it badly spoiling its benefits in lost flow. Thanks for confirming this hard lesson for many of us. But you know what…it's worth it.



Good luck.

There are three kinds of men: the one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation, and the rest who have to pee on the electric fence for themselves. —Will Rogers

 

[Coelli]

I ran the 3mm through the wick holes then put a paper clip in the center and wrapped coils with 32ga, seems to work good for me. It doesn't leak but I do have to tilt frequently, it does go through a lot of juice.View attachment 329511

I just can't get my Kraken to play nice (just posted another thread about it but I'll reply too here since it's XC-116 specific). I kept getting a really metallic taste, like licking tinfoil, from the Kraken so I took it apart today and cleaned it thoroughly and ran it through the ultrasonic cleaner in case it was machine oil or something. Then I built it with dual coils at .45 with just the XC-116. It tasted great but WAY too hot for me. So I rebuilt with two microcoils, about 10 wraps of 28g coming out to .7, again just using XC-116. The coils are big enough inside to make contact but not compress the wick, and I ran a piece of wire down each after it was set up just to make sure. The flavor is good but the vapor production is, as with most of my builds so far, not good at all. I've tried adjusting airflow with no luck. It's wicking fine, and I don't get dry hits, but there's no vapor (and it hits pretty harsh). I just can't find a happy medium with it. At least the XC-116 is wicking, but.. it's frustrating.

 

[MacTechVpr]

I just can't get my Kraken to play nice (just posted another thread about it but I'll reply too here since it's XC-116 specific). I kept getting a really metallic taste, like licking tinfoil, from the Kraken so I took it apart today and cleaned it thoroughly and ran it through the ultrasonic cleaner in case it was machine oil or something. Then I built it with dual coils at .45 with just the XC-116. It tasted great but WAY too hot for me. So I rebuilt with two microcoils, about 10 wraps of 28g coming out to .7, again just using XC-116. The coils are big enough inside to make contact but not compress the wick, and I ran a piece of wire down each after it was set up just to make sure. The flavor is good but the vapor production is, as with most of my builds so far, not good at all. I've tried adjusting airflow with no luck. It's wicking fine, and I don't get dry hits, but there's no vapor (and it hits pretty harsh). I just can't find a happy medium with it. At least the XC-116 is wicking, but.. it's frustrating.

Just out of curiosity Coelli, what is your wind diameter and what/how are you winding on it? Contact coil, conventional, tension? Try to give you an answer in the morning. Past my bedtime today.

Good luck.

 

[Coelli]

Thanks Mac

I don't know the exact diameter but it's the largest of the jeweler's screwdrivers in my kit and the interior diameter of the coil is just enough to make contact with the XC-116 without compressing it. I've used this method before in my drippers, because it allows the wick to slide through the coil without fraying it too much. I used 10 wraps of 28g for each coil, and compressed them with tweezers and torched. So it's probably not truly a microcoil, but a compressed coil (or contact if that's what you meant).

It's a little better now that I upped the amount of VG in the juice but man, it hits hard. My boyfriend can't even hit it without coughing. And yet the vapor isn't really there. Neither of us are smokers so the throat hit is a whammy and while I'm used to lung-hitting with my Sophias and Dripper Pros and Brass Monkee I just can't do it much on the Kraken. That's probably just the nature of the Kraken beast but I'd like to be able to mouth-lung without suffering, and get some vapor out of it too.

(Er - maybe I should mention I vape 6mg and have been using The Standard's Cell Block 4)

 

[MamaTried]

After 4" of wasted readyxwick I finally learned that if your hand is going in a clockwise(screwing-in) motion as you build your coil on the Artist Wire gizmo, you have to un-screw in the wick,no matter which end you put it in and putting a mandrel,drill-bit screwdriver paper-clip etc into the hollow wick is likely to compress the braid and/or break the individual ceramic filaments when you coil over top and reduce the possible capillary action of the wick.The time,effort,money and materials used was worth it in the end.

nevermind...

 

[Taylor7617]

I used 10 wraps of 28g for each coil, and compressed them with tweezers and torched. So it's probably not truly a microcoil, but a compressed coil (or contact if that's what you meant).

Many have stated earlier that when using RxW that it is best to leave very small spaces between the coils and NOT compress. This slightly allows the wick to get between the coil strands. Maybe try this..?

 

[MacTechVpr]

Thanks Mac

I don't know the exact diameter but it's the largest of the jeweler's screwdrivers in my kit and the interior diameter of the coil is just enough to make contact with the XC-116 without compressing it. I've used this method before in my drippers, because it allows the wick to slide through the coil without fraying it too much. I used 10 wraps of 28g for each coil, and compressed them with tweezers and torched. So it's probably not truly a microcoil, but a compressed coil (or contact if that's what you meant).

It's a little better now that I upped the amount of VG in the juice but man, it hits hard. My boyfriend can't even hit it without coughing. And yet the vapor isn't really there. Neither of us are smokers so the throat hit is a whammy and while I'm used to lung-hitting with my Sophias and Dripper Pros and Brass Monkee I just can't do it much on the Kraken. That's probably just the nature of the Kraken beast but I'd like to be able to mouth-lung without suffering, and get some vapor out of it too.

(Er - maybe I should mention I vape 6mg and have been using The Standard's Cell Block 4)

I'm much more interested in your wind values. It seems you're on about 3mm and I assume you didn't bore out the Krac wick holes. I don't run one. But vape quite a few, lol. Duals is good, your wind is good but it got a tad low in res for your tastes. The output suggests not enough air flow. I've vaped at least a half-dozen I've liked at ~.5Ω and it's a good vape even for me as I prefer cooler. But I gotta tell ya (and the other ones listening here)…you will get better efficiency if you tension wind. That same .5Ω build will vape like a .7-.8Ω in apparent temperature but with the same density. BECAUSE…you are getting more uniform temperature distribution across the wick. Torching it into a contact coil definitely works. I tested both variations side-by-side extensively as well as against tight but unconnected hand wind and (screw) wound tension variations...the tighter that geometry gets with contact the more efficiency you arrive at. And no practical way to get there reliably than stretching the wire (tension). Think about it.

My guess, you have a good build set there. I'd be thinking airflow to perfect it. Out of curiosity again, lol. Are you stock or mod on air?

Thanks for the feedback...and good luck.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Many have stated earlier that when using RxW that it is best to leave very small spaces between the coils and NOT compress. This slightly allows the wick to get between the coil strands. Maybe try this..?

Worth a try if you read my post above, I have. Slight separation in my experience yields a denser but noticeably hotter vape. With narrow spacing you achieve a slightly better deflection on individual turns, true. But you have a substantial net loss of efficiency in thermal transfer because of a reduction in the uniformity of electron flow from either a contact or tensioned contact coil. You may actually see somewhat more vapor but more diffuse. This likely will affect flavor as well, muting it with volume expansion.

I marvel at the phrase what works for you. Take Coelli. In her case, if she spaces on her wind she may not see the overwhelming density she's getting but it's likely to be equally intolerable in terms of temperature perception. The latter may affect how flavorful the vape is as airy heat tends to subdue taste (why you can sometimes tolerate a higher nic with a bit more air, for example, same principle of volume diffusion applies).

We all benefit when we start thinking in terms of what physics does to vapor.

I strongly recommend winding to the highest efficiency possible with a tensioned micro/macro whatever they want to call it these days. Setting the baseline. Then seeking the temperature target for the particular juice. If bunny rabbit verticals floats your boat then more power to ya. But at least you know what the juice should taste like in an optimal state for your rig at a temperature that reveals it best.

No other way to know for sure. It's always the best vape we ever had.

Just sayin'.

 

[muzichead]

Thought this would "kinda" be appropriate for this thread....

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Thought this would "kinda" be appropriate for this thread....
View attachment 330797

 

[k2zs]

I'm wanting to try some of this, but I'm wondering, for wicks that are 1/2" long, is this stuff limber enough to keep the ends touching the deck of the rda?

There's nothing saying that your coil has to be horizontal. Build a vertical coil and it will touch the deck and wick nicely.

I just tried it in a Link RDA from Steam Monkey and it works great! Pulled the cotton out of an existing 2.5mm coil and threaded in 3mm ReadyXWick and it was a night/day difference.

Although the Link is a vertical coil design, I'm sure you could build a vertical coil in any standard 2 or 3 post RDA. Maybe use the through post hole on one side and wrap the other around the center posts screw. That may help shorten the lead length. Be creative, think outside the box...

 

[MacTechVpr]

There's nothing saying that your coil has to be horizontal. Build a vertical coil and it will touch the deck and wick nicely.

I just tried it in a Link RDA from Steam Monkey and it works great! Pulled the cotton out of an existing 2.5mm coil and threaded in 3mm ReadyXWick and it was a night/day difference.

Although the Link is a vertical coil design, I'm sure you could build a vertical coil in any standard 2 or 3 post RDA. Maybe use the through post hole on one side and wrap the other around the center posts screw. That may help shorten the lead length. Be creative, think outside the box...

View attachment 330845

Hmmm, very nice wind. Kinda thinkin' twisted pair twin verticals for my zMonkey CE.

We'll be back at ya.



Good luck.

 

[rudy4653]

Okay so...... I have conformed!
I was always preaching that it was easy and effective to just stick a pin in the middle of the xc and just hand wrap. I thought I was quite good at it it and made nice tight even coils very quickly and easily.
Well, I finally honed in a perfect size coil to wind and be able to do the "insert" method without being too tight and frustrating to thread thru and too loose where the wick was moving around. Took advice from here and cut wick at angle, dip in vg and thread thru. VOILA, I did it!! The wick slides in and not too tight.
I vaped on this over the weekend and much to my surprise I COULD tell a difference between this method and my old way. It seemed to vape smoother, generate more vapor, and smoother flavor. It may be the placebo effect but I don't think so. It seems without disturbing the strands by inserting the pin and indenting the wick with each hand wrap the wick performs better? Kind of like a nice garden hose without and kinks or twists. When i checked the wick after vaping i could acutally see the juice in the middle of the hollow wick which I never noticed before on my hand wraps.
Just my observation. Seems to go along with what MacTechvpr was explaining in more eloquent terminology!

 

[jifjifjif]

Something that worked pretty well for me was to hand wrap a coil (with small space between wraps) on a Q-tip. I cut off one cotton end with scissors and then wrapped 28ga Kanthal A1 around the Q-tip shaft. At this diameter, 2mm ReadyXWick slid right in and did not choke from being too tight in there.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Something that worked pretty well for me was to hand wrap a coil (with small space between wraps on a Q-tip. I cut off one cotton end with scissors and then wrapped 28ga Kanthal A1 around the Q-tip shaft. At this diameter, 2mm ReadyXWick slid right in and did not choke from being too tight in there.

Believe it or not, that's really not the optimal diameter for the wick. If you mike it, I think you'll find it to be substantially smaller. I say substantially because micro-millimeters makes a difference where coil-to-surface contact are involved. The less direct contact that you have the less efficient the heat exchange. Less vapor, less flavor. What you want is a subtle deflection of the wick surface, whatever the wick media, to involve as much of the wire surface as you can. That get's the juices goin' jif!

And it really isn't any easier to hand wind. Quite the opposite when you consider the chances of shorting, producing high or low turns and the overall fiddly this will generate over the life of the coil. Especially in a closed tank.

ReadyXWick enjoys a slight compression fit as I describe above. But the amazing thing is that it produces at all without scorching with the latitude of a 2mm coil. As you're hand winding, you're probably producing turns smaller than you think. Still ceramic fiber is very responsive for the contact that you do make. That speaks to the awesome flow rates it delivers and as Rudy noted above how well the hollow-core opens up to that juice delivery if it isn't overly or partially over-compressed. Easy to do with a hand wind.

If you try it someday jif I think you'll be very pleased.

Good luck.