I still don't understand why anybody would NEED to vape at more than 15-20 watts. Funny thing is Like vaping at around 10-12 watts with a 1.3ohm coil....... Now I can do that with my Mech or Squonker, all day on a 18650 with NO REGULATION ......... BUT I get a better vape when I use the kick, (set to approx 10watts). Only drawback is I change batteries 2-3X more often do to the 18500 batts. I can run my mech as 18650+kick, but prefer the 18500/kick size and look
REO CLONED
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I still don't understand why anybody would NEED to vape at more than 15-20 watts. Funny thing is Like vaping at around 10-12 watts with a 1.3ohm coil....... Now I can do that with my Mech or Squonker, all day on a 18650 with NO REGULATION ......... BUT I get a better vape when I use the kick, (set to approx 10watts). Only drawback is I change batteries 2-3X more often do to the 18500 batts. I can run my mech as 18650+kick, but prefer the 18500/kick size and look
I agree,i usually vape at 15-20 watts,occasionally i will go to 25 watts,but that's about my limit haha.I understand the desire for more watts,due to cloud chasers,but i know a few people who adv at 80-100 watts all the time,no way i could do it haha.My preferred setup is 15-20 watts on a .4 ohm coil,i started out with 2.4 ohms and have worked my way down over the last year to finally find what works the best for me.
This is how it should work fir everyone..
Thing is today, everybody has to START out with the highest performance products and running them at max..
Why does nobody understand how in most cases, LESS is MORE.
I'm not a cloud chaser, I'm a flavor chaser and for me .2ohms are what gives me the flavor I want, I did start with egos and evods a few years back , but high watts not necessarily mean that one cares for the clouds
i liked the looks of it,other then the height that is
so i gave it a good chance thought about opening up the air holes for chucking clouds,but cloudin is not my thing,i prefer flavor
i had a KUI that i lost the adjustable positive screw from some how ?? the positive out of the smokeless fit perfectly and had better threading so i was able to save something from it
I took out the button and put a Radio Shack switch in and used wire from a burned out flat iron---it had high temp insulation on it and was heavier.
I took the ground pod with the heavy spring in and took it apart and sunk a ball point pen spring into it after filling the bottom cavity with solder.
Made a top contact and glued it in-----used a 18350 battery to give me room to have a switch.
works good now with no misfires.
Mine is here. It looks nicer than I expected. I will LP it this afternoon and give it a trial run.
I think the firing arm is a little weak. I'm going to replace that, the spring, and also planning a custom paint job on the door. Its icky and rainy today so I may start the door.
Thanks
. I got this for $1.90, lol! So it has no value to anyone but me, being a clone. However, I'm going to make it "my own", and I expect it will work just as nicely as my authentic and with a personal touch. I got a picture in my head yesterday of what I'm going to paint on it. It just hit me within a few minutes of its arriving so I'm raring to go.I replaced my positive tab and spring,and it gets even better.Mine worked fine with the stock parts,but i had a short and collapsed the spring so i just replaced both parts,and there was a definite improvement.
As for the paint,i would consider a new paint job on the whole mod.Within a few weeks,mine has chips all over,and i have not been rough with it,just normal everyday use has it chipping away in several spots.It appears they did not do any type of prep for the paint to stick better,the aluminum underneath is quite shiny.
Any body know where to get a spray paint that will give that textured finish that comes on these?I like it,but mine looks like crap with shiny aluminum spots showing in several places haha.
Rustoleum hammered finish. I used it to paint all the old radiators in my house, and they've held up wonderfully. Using a primer first wouldn't hurt though.
Cool thanks.I had thought about that hammered finish,but i have never used it,so i didn't know if it actually got that texture to it,or if it just had the look.I'll check it out,and yeah definitely going to use primer,when i painted my vw sqounker that i built,the paint said no primer needed,and that thing chips if you look at it wrong haha.
if you are going to paint over aluminum ? you need to first use an etching primer,which can be had at an paint or maybe an auto supply store ..if you don't want to bother doing it right the first time ?? you can grab some extremely course sandpaper 180grit to give it a "tooth" for the paint to adhere to, then try the cover coat
Thanks for the tip.My vw sqounker that i built is aluminum too,i didn't use any primer because the paint said it didn't need primer,but i did sand it and give it a nice scratched up surface,that still didn't help,it has chips out of it in several spots,so from now on,definitely using primer first.
......Aint nothin' wrong with the Reo Clone. I picked one up from Focal with a Derringer for $23. For both. I milled off 3mm from the catch cup, painted the bare aluminum black, cleaned the paint off under the battery spring, and modded the atty's positive pin.
Results? An excellent performing bottom feeder with very little voltage drop. I know it's not perfect, but for the price it sure is. I usually make my own BF boxes from scratch, and
I am not willing to pay over $50 for ANY mod. {I also wanted to see how the form factor of a Reo compares to my own creations, too.} -I can see improvements that can be made to the button and the contact strip, but for now I will leave it as it is. Unbeatable value here, IMO.
Results? An excellent performing bottom feeder with very little voltage drop. I know it's not perfect, but for the price it sure is. I usually make my own BF boxes from scratch, and
I couldn't agree more.I paid $28 for my clone,but still very happy with it.It has been my main go to mod since the first time i used it.I know in the beginning there were doubters as to whether the spring was collapsible or not,but after having a short in an atty,i can gladly say yes they used a safety spring,that is the only reason i replaced it,and just replaced the positive tab at the same time.The 1 and only complaint is the paint chipping off very easily,but a $5 can of spray paint and some primer will fix that issue.The derringer is fantastic on these too,i started out using a 14mm atty on it that came with my Kui,but after giving it the lp treatment,the derringer hasn't been removed since.......Aint nothin' wrong with the Reo Clone. Unbeatable value here, IMO.
I have found a lot of conflicting info on painting over both powdercoating and aluminum. I'll be disappointed if I can't do this.
Well decided to give BF a try for my 2 year vapeaversy. Ordered a Terminator/Smokeless Owl from Focalecig USA warehouse ($26.51), and a REO Grand Clone/Challace III from Focalecig China warehouse ($27.27), so less than $54 for both setups. Not a bad price all and all. I have plenty of batteries and chargers because of my other mech mods, and I may even try to figure out how to put a kick in them to regulate the output. Should have the USA order by my vapeaversy on the 18th, but the one from China most likely won't make it by then.
You'll never want to go back to conventional non bf mods haha.I have a decent sized collection of both mech and vw mods,and after getting my first bf,that is all i use now.I started with the smokeless owl,liked it so i got a Kui,then the Reo clone,then i built a vw bf,and now just a few minutes ago,decided i wanted a vapor flask sqounker,so i just ordered the clone of that.It gets addicting haha,i never got into rda's until this,now i'm on a mission to try them all haha.
By the way,congrats on the upcoming vapeaversery,and who knows,you may be surprised,that order from China may show up sooner than you think.
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