Reo compatible RBAs

[WharfRat1976]

I came across the "manual" I got with my REO the other day after vaping on it for 1 or 2 months. I read it... It shows an o-ring on the top deck and mine did not come with one I do get a fair amount of leakage so it has to be from my missing o-ring. Do I just email "REO" or is there another place I can grab one.

I have a REO Grand LP. I will paypal for postage or a ring or 2 if anyone has any laying around.

Thank you-

 

[NatGasMan]

I came across the "manual" I got with my REO the other day after vaping on it for 1 or 2 months. I read it... It shows an o-ring on the top deck and mine did not come with one I do get a fair amount of leakage so it has to be from my missing o-ring. Do I just email "REO" or is there another place I can grab one.

I have a REO Grand LP. I will paypal for postage or a ring or 2 if anyone has any laying around.

Thank you-

I think the o-ring that you are missing comes with any of the RM's that Rob sells.

 

[Quigsworth]

I came across the "manual" I got with my REO the other day after vaping on it for 1 or 2 months. I read it... It shows an o-ring on the top deck and mine did not come with one I do get a fair amount of leakage so it has to be from my missing o-ring. Do I just email "REO" or is there another place I can grab one.

I have a REO Grand LP. I will paypal for postage or a ring or 2 if anyone has any laying around.

Thank you-

That o ring is pretty key to stopping leaks when using RBA's...but they're a very common $.50 item at any decent hardware store...you don't need to be super exact on the size, just get one that will fit in the well without having to cram it in and you should be good...

 

[super_X_drifter]

I run my Odins and chalice in my recently LP'd grands without an oring and I get ZERO seepage.

I'm not wrenching them down anymore, just snugging them up.

That's the cool thing about LPs. You will know right away if you get seepage rather than when the cup fills and then juice trickles when you tilt the mod.

I just think some attys 510s mate up better or it could be luck - dunno but I like it.

I'll also add that both my LP'd grands were rebuilt (by me) - both like my video ( the wrong way ) and one of them seeped inside the Delrin block - the other is good.

So I rebuilt again ( the right way ) the seeping hammertone and it's good now.

You ABSOLUTELY MUST insert the silicone gasket by itself. It helps to wet it first

Do not use my video method and try to insert them all on the post. That was a mistake - but that's the only way I learn anything

 

[garpt01]

I use an o ring most of the time now, but that's probably because I modify a lot of the RDA's I use for BF, and usually it's not a perfectly centered hole through the center pin. I often notch out an insulator, tap out alongside the 510 connector through the deck, etc. So there is more likelihood for juice finding its way into the outer well. With true bottom feed mods I get no unwanted leakage at all, just a couple drops in the 510 connector well. Varying the diameter (thickness) of the o-ring slightly can also help to properly place the air hole towards the top when vaping and prevent leakage from that point.

 

[Quigsworth]

...Varying the diameter (thickness) of the o-ring slightly can also help to properly place the air hole towards the top when vaping and prevent leakage from that point.

Great point...leaking/not leaking issues aside...another good reason to run an o ring is because as forgiving as Rob's 510's are (allowing you to sink almost any device till it's base makes contact with outer barrel of the 510) you are basically relying on the 510's threading/barrel edge to support the device physically i.e. wobble...by using an o ring you greatly increase the support "foot print" and lessen the chance of thread wear.

In the case of an LP, if you can sink the RDA till it makes contact with raised deck (without shorting), great, if not I'd strongly suggest you use an o ring as the torque load of a 20mm + RDA will make short work of your threads...just saying of course...

 

[super_X_drifter]

Great point...leaking/not leaking issues aside...another good reason to run an o ring is because as forgiving as Rob's 510's are (allowing you to sink almost any device till it's base makes contact with outer barrel of the 510) you are basically relying on the 510's threading/barrel edge to support the device physically i.e. wobble...by using an o ring you greatly increase the support "foot print" and lessen the chance of thread wear.

In the case of an LP, if you can sink the RDA till it makes contact with raised deck (without shorting), great, if not I'd strongly suggest you use an o ring as the torque load of a 20mm + RDA will make short work of your threads...just saying of course...

Good point bro. Gonna oring back up now

 

[Idaholandho]

Not using o rings myself, yet good points. All of my atomizers seem to fit nice and flush with the bases flush on the LP deck for a very stable ride not dependent on just the 510 connection.

I came across the "manual" I got with my REO the other day after vaping on it for 1 or 2 months. I read it... It shows an o-ring on the top deck and mine did not come with one I do get a fair amount of leakage so it has to be from my missing o-ring. Do I just email "REO" or is there another place I can grab one.

I have a REO Grand LP. I will paypal for postage or a ring or 2 if anyone has any laying around.

Thank you-

Having a comfortable supply of orings and would be happy to send a few for your dancing and dining pleasure . Please do not insult me with postage .

 

[turbocad6]

I run my Odins and chalice in my recently LP'd grands without an oring and I get ZERO seepage.

I'm not wrenching them down anymore, just snugging them up.

That's the cool thing about LPs. You will know right away if you get seepage rather than when the cup fills and then juice trickles when you tilt the mod.

I just think some attys 510s mate up better or it could be luck - dunno but I like it.

I'll also add that both my LP'd grands were rebuilt (by me) - both like my video ( the wrong way ) and one of them seeped inside the Delrin block - the other is good.

So I rebuilt again ( the right way ) the seeping hammertone and it's good now.

You ABSOLUTELY MUST insert the silicone gasket by itself. It helps to wet it first

Do not use my video method and try to insert them all on the post. That was a mistake - but that's the only way I learn anything

dude, I did yours specifically for the odin so yours sits perfectly flat sealed to the odin without the oring, but not all lp's will. even though yours works fine without the oring I would recommend you do still use a thin oring, it allows you to clock the atty to any position you need to position your airholes exactly where you'd want them and adds a bit of support, it won't hurt to use an oring

 

[bsoplinger]

Since I don't have an o-ring collection, can someone who's had to purchase some give sizes? So that when I go to get mine I'll be getting the correct thing. Health wise multiple shopping trips aren't good, just one takes a lot out of me.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Since I don't have an o-ring collection, can someone who's had to purchase some give sizes? So that when I go to get mine I'll be getting the correct thing. Health wise multiple shopping trips aren't good, just one takes a lot out of me.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

Rob sells 1.0mm x 10mm and 1.5mm x 10mm o rings

 

[WharfRat1976]

Rob sells 1.0mm x 10mm and 1.5mm x 10mm o rings

For my RM2 I went to the hardware store and bought a few 3/8th o-rings. They fit perfectly over the threads of the atty and provide a great seal.

I have a few squonk bottle o-rings so all set there. Good luck.

 

[Lillie Bennett]

Sounds like the best size would match the rda base.

 

[WharfRat1976]

Sounds like the best size would match the rda base.

3/8ths or 10mm is perfect size for the base of the atty.

I use extra squonk bottle orings between my top cap and atty base to get my coil/airhole/fire button orientation in the position I prefer. For me it only requires 1 oring in this spot. I will post a pic of the oring packaging with exact dimensions I bought from the hardware store. Works perfectly

 

[AaronY]

An atomic atty with air flow control that is converted for use with LP Reos. I am really happy with it to read more and see the other pic go to http://www.ecigjuicereview.com/2014/08/catfish-atty-converted-squawking-bf.html

 

[Troll from behind]

Been out of the loop with Reos for a while and this might be a wrong thread to ask, but for a one, who prefers flavor over clouds, but still likes to play steamengine now and then what would be the combo to get from Reosmods?
All those RM1 - 5 don't tell much as such.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

The smaller chambers favor flavor, so RM2 or RM3. A lower ohm coil and more air flow will net you more vapor. I prefer a single 1 ohm-ish coil with 1/16 or larger airflow so both are great at that, If you want dual coils in a small chamber the RM3 with two air holes would be the better choice.

If you want airflow control then the RM4

 

[Gatormedic]

I've been using a 454 big bock lately. Thinking of getting a second.

 

[AaronY]

I've been using a 454 big bock lately. Thinking of getting a second.

How easy is it to convert into a BF?

 

[Gatormedic]

The center pin is press fitted and hollow, it just has a copper contact pressed into the bottom. I actually sent them a message on FB and he got back to me right away. He was really easy to work with. He ended up sending me out an extra center pin without the copper piece and was even nice enough to drill two holes in the center post for the juice to flow through. The holes are too high for all the juice to drain back but I kinda like it like that anyway. I'm not sure how hard it is to remove the copper contact from the center post as I didn't need to try. I just popped one out and put the other in.