Reo issue

[ReigntheGamer]

So far my Reo's have been trouble free and performing very well, but recently one of them is coming up short in the good vape category. My TRA Grand is just not "hitting as hard" as my other two. They all have the same atty, same builds, wick, etc. but the vape on the TRA is anemic compared to the other two. I made sure the contacts were clean and put deoxit on them as well as the batteries but the vape didn't improve after that.

And I'm sure it's no coincidence that it is the only Reo I have that has been "rebuilt" (by me) because the nipple that the feed tube attaches to sheared off when I removed all the workings of it to polish it. So yesterday I took it apart to see if I could figure out why, so far the only thing I could find that was any different than the others was the screw that holds the spring in place was pretty loose. Other than that it looks identical to my others, granted I have not rebuilt it and given it another go yet because I wanted to post here in case there was something else that may need attention before proceeding.

I guess my question is could the battery spring being loose cause the symptoms I have described and if not what might I look at to resolve this issue?

 

[pwheeler]

I've lately been having the same problems. Anemic firing and sometimes won't fire at all. Even on my TRA that went to the spa for the new 510. I'll be curious to hear of any ideas myself.

Sent by REO vapor

 

[nerak]

So far my Reo's have been trouble free and performing very well, but recently one of them is coming up short in the good vape category. My TRA Grand is just not "hitting as hard" as my other two. They all have the same atty, same builds, wick, etc. but the vape on the TRA is anemic compared to the other two. I made sure the contacts were clean and put deoxit on them as well as the batteries but the vape didn't improve after that.

And I'm sure it's no coincidence that it is the only Reo I have that has been "rebuilt" (by me) because the nipple that the feed tube attaches to sheared off when I removed all the workings of it to polish it. So yesterday I took it apart to see if I could figure out why, so far the only thing I could find that was any different than the others was the screw that holds the spring in place was pretty loose. Other than that it looks identical to my others, granted I have not rebuilt it and given it another go yet because I wanted to post here in case there was something else that may need attention before proceeding.

I guess my question is could the battery spring being loose cause the symptoms I have described and if not what might I look at to resolve this issue?

That screw IS the contact for the current running through the REO. So, yes, it can cause just what you described!

 

[pennysmalls]

Check your firing pin while your at it, where it touches the battery. Make sure there is no build up or that the gold hasn't worn off. I thought one of my Grands had a bad 510 until I took the firing pin out and got a magnifying glass to look at it real good. The gold was worn off and I had to replace the firing pin. I vape at .5 ohm always and I wasn't using enough noalox and fried it.

 

[Spydro]

You could easily have a voltage drop or worse from a loose spring. Fix the obvious first, then go from there.

 

[ReigntheGamer]

That screw IS the contact for the current running through the REO. So, yes, it can cause just what you described!

Thanks! I kinda figured since it was the only thing I found that was different between the three of them but wanted to ask the gurus first. Will rebuild it later this evening and update with my findings.

 

[nerak]

Thanks! I kinda figured since it was the only thing I found that was different between the three of them but wanted to ask the gurus first. Will rebuild it later this evening and update with my findings.

Put a little DeOxit on the screw, it will help too.

 

[Rule62]

It sounds to me that the loose screw might be the cause of your problem. Take the screw out, put a bit of Deoxit Gold on the countersink area of the hole, replace the spring, and snug up the screw.


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[Jet Knight]

Noalox works better for me, especially after a good cleaning. If all else fails, Robert is just a PM away.

 

[redeyedancer]

Yes I am always watching

 

[super_X_drifter]

The positive contact is gold plated beryllium copper. I'm thinking that even if the gold were to wear off it'd still perform excellent. Many mods use beryllium copper alone as the contact material. I think the gold plating is just a "plus".

Perhaps the area with the gold worn off might have been oxidized too? Dunno - just throwin that out there.

 

[ReigntheGamer]

Thanks for the responses that cleared things right up. After applying deoxit to the screw, countersunk area, and the bottom of the spring and tightening things up a little more snug than they were it's hitting like a champ again. I think between me being hesitant to really torque down on that screw for fear of stripping it and ultrasonic cleaner baths combined loosened it up just enough to affect the performance.

 

[pwheeler]

Mine, too. My TRA had been to the shop and has the new 510 and a new firing pin, but realized it still had the same spring. This morning I took out the spring and even though I give my Reo periodic baths, it was dirty with some oxidation under the spring! I cleaned it up and used deoxit under the spring and in the screw recess and it's hitting good again. Glad you had that problem, Travis, and posted about it. I was getting rather frustrated.

Sent by REO vapor

 

[ReigntheGamer]

Mine, too. My TRA had been to the shop and has the new 510 and a new firing pin, but realized it still had the same spring. This morning I took out the spring and even though I give my Reo periodic baths, it was dirty with some oxidation under the spring! I cleaned it up and used deoxit under the spring and in the screw recess and it's hitting good again. Glad you had that problem, Travis, and posted about it. I was getting rather frustrated.

Sent by REO vapor

That's awesome glad it helped your issue as well.

One more case that if for some reason a Reo isn't performing properly it's usually because of a small overlooked issue that is easily remedied.

 

[Raynman]

I was going to suggest looking at the screws on the atty. Those can cause these kind of problems.

 

[pwheeler]

I was going to suggest looking at the screws on the atty. Those can cause these kind of problems.

I thought that, too. I measured the voltage at the 510 without the atty on. I got the battery voltage when pressing the fire button. My attys checked out great on an ohm checker and even tried to jiggle the coils and held steady. I guess that is was crude in the negative end of the Reo that under load, it wouldn't work properly.

Sent by REO vapor

 

[Fuzzy Bruce]

Out of curiosity,I checked the continuity the between the spring screw and the white finish on my newest addition to the family. It is an open circuit. Same with both wrinkle finishes. Not so on the TRA.

My twisted mind conclusion is that the only contact between the negative spring and the body is the tiny place where the beveled spring screw head contacts the body of the mod. This led me to use deoxit on the screw.

 

[pwheeler]

Out of curiosity,I checked the continuity the between the spring screw and the white finish on my newest addition to the family. It is an open circuit. Same with both wrinkle finishes. Not so on the TRA.

My twisted mind conclusion is that the only contact between the negative spring and the body is the tiny place where the beveled spring screw head contacts the body of the mod. This led me to use deoxit on the screw.

That is the only negative contact on painted Reos. Many, me included, have sanded the finish down to bare aluminum under the spring.

Sent by REO vapor

 

[nerak]

Out of curiosity,I checked the continuity the between the spring screw and the white finish on my newest addition to the family. It is an open circuit. Same with both wrinkle finishes. Not so on the TRA.

My twisted mind conclusion is that the only contact between the negative spring and the body is the tiny place where the beveled spring screw head contacts the body of the mod. This led me to use deoxit on the screw.

Yeppers.....that little screw is very important! Now if you have raw aluminum under the spring plate it will conduct current also. But on the finished REO's only the screw! Robert pointed that fact out to us a long time ago! Thank you for your time to prove it!

 

[m3nace]

Yes it's just like if you don't tighten down the screws on your atty you will have the same problem